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04-10-2017, 07:35 AM | #23 |
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I attempted swapping the lines this weekend. 3 / 6 lines completed.
I did not attempt the mid-rears yet. I didn't have an 11mm flare so that made it a bit tougher. Problem with the front left. The hard line and the flared nut are STUCK. I Could not break it free from the hard line! Any suggestions? I spray PB blaster but I could not get it free. I'm able to rotate the nut from the rubber line but the hard line rotates too, I don't want to twist the hard line are more. |
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04-10-2017, 08:34 AM | #24 | |
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04-10-2017, 08:49 AM | #25 |
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Some people have used heat, but you must be very careful due to undercoating, plastic fenders, and to not heat up the male end. PB blaster or Kroil would be better, and very good wrenches held very carefully.
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04-10-2017, 12:19 PM | #26 |
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Thanks for the advice, I'll hit it again with the PB blaster and try.
I'll pull the fender wells and see if I can access the hard line. A replace line front left is only $26.00. If a can swap it out easily might be my only option, other than leave the stock robber line. Number 3 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=34_1486 |
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11-16-2018, 03:44 PM | #27 |
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My hardline and flared nuts are also stuck. Front and rear so far I tried to break 6 of them, and 4 of them are stuck, so 66% of them are stuck. (I haven't tried the 2 upper nuts on rear inner - it looks totally impossible to reach) That's a pretty high rate. Around the brake area there are lots of gunk, dirt, etc., and it is easy to get stuck. It was even hard to place the 11mm wrench around the nut as they are so dirty (I have to scrape off and clean the nut first).
PB blaster didn't help, and you can't unscrew the hose on the caliper side either, so what I did was to first remove caliper from the bracket, and then rather than unscrewing the hose from the caliper, I unscrewed the caliper from hose - I held the hose stationary and then rotate the caliper inside wheel well until it came off. The I pried open the pin, pull the hose down a bit so that it came off the star-shaped bracket and can rotate and unscrew the hose from the hardline by rotating the hose. I guess I may be the only one to do this way, but it worked. However I sheared the rear right hard line - that's a long one that run from right to left side - I am ordering the parts to get it replaced. |
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06-27-2020, 10:13 PM | #29 |
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installing these lines on my car has become a nightmare the driver side i did first was easy. the other 3 were so rusty after pouring pb blaster and wd 40 they all 3 snap . i know gotta union the brake line or flare them. My car is a 2008. Seems who ever owned it before me replaced the driver that top nut was brand new looking while the other 3 were rusty.
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06-28-2020, 03:09 PM | #30 |
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Sometimes when they are bad I will use vise grips. One on each end. You must hold the other end so it does not snap. Rarely can you use just one wrench.
Find a straight section and splice in new and bend to fit. If you can get to the end of the section, certainly consider ordering it and hope you have better luck disconnecting at that end. If you have never flared before, practice. Buy the better copper line. |
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01-12-2021, 06:41 PM | #31 |
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I swapped all 6 lines a few weeks back. Like everyone else's experience here, the mid lines were the most difficult. It helps to unclip the white plastic line that's in the way and push it down to give yourself a bit more working room.
For the line closest to you, i found it easiest to use an open ended wrench and flipping the wrench to get the correct angle. It is tedious but less frustrating as having the correct angle lets the wrench slide right in. For the line farther from you, break it loose first with an open ended wrench. I bought the flex head flared from GearWrench which made this one much easier. The flex head allowed me to turn the nut from underneath the car and I had a buddy help me slip the head onto the nut and hold it in place while I turned. I hope this helps others a bit. |
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