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      10-02-2018, 04:19 PM   #23
M3 Number 86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
ok, you can borrow my 100+ laguna laps, tired ass tires (one with a 4" blowout in it) and have at it. come at me bro!
you want me to crash your car?
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      10-02-2018, 04:55 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
How do you get the car on the stands and then roll it or unbind the suspension?

BTW, I have a set of wireless corner balancing scales that I can rent out.
Slide plates between stands and wheels.
(post 5, 2nd pic)

Just lower the car onto the stands with the lift.
& bounce the corners once down.
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      10-02-2018, 05:40 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
i see. i was thinking maybe under hard, sudden compression it was causing an issue, but it could very well be the poor dampening of the oem suspension. i also feel like it unloads and throws the car wider if i get too low. i was experimenting with it all day and nothing really felt "right" and "fast" at the same time... if that makes any sense.
I think you're experiencing the limitations of the OEM suspension.

Under hard compression, the OEM suspension is riding the bumpstops. The sensation is that the suspension compresses smoothly then it gets stiff once fully compressed. Its quite noticeable especially if you are running grippier tires than stock.

Also, rebound is rather slow on stock shocks so it takes a bit of time for the car to settle after compressing. I've found there is a floating sensation in fast transitions as the car weight shifts and settles into corners.
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      10-03-2018, 05:37 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z K View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
i see. i was thinking maybe under hard, sudden compression it was causing an issue, but it could very well be the poor dampening of the oem suspension. i also feel like it unloads and throws the car wider if i get too low. i was experimenting with it all day and nothing really felt "right" and "fast" at the same time... if that makes any sense.
I think you're experiencing the limitations of the OEM suspension.

Under hard compression, the OEM suspension is riding the bumpstops. The sensation is that the suspension compresses smoothly then it gets stiff once fully compressed. Its quite noticeable especially if you are running grippier tires than stock.

Also, rebound is rather slow on stock shocks so it takes a bit of time for the car to settle after compressing. I've found there is a floating sensation in fast transitions as the car weight shifts and settles into corners.
Quick switchbacks definitely challenge the suspension.

One thing to keep in mind, running out of suspension travel beats the crap out of the suspension mounting points - shock and strut towers.
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      10-14-2018, 09:58 PM   #27
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This is just an awesome thread. I just got my 3rd alignment in 6 months... and it may not be my last before the end of the year. Trying to figure out what works best for my street and track tires on a dual purpose car. Anyways, you have compiled some great info here. Thank you. I can't help but feel like this might end up contributing to my future garage goals.
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      10-15-2018, 08:27 AM   #28
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This is just an awesome thread. I just got my 3rd alignment in 6 months... and it may not be my last before the end of the year. Trying to figure out what works best for my street and track tires on a dual purpose car. Anyways, you have compiled some great info here. Thank you. I can't help but feel like this might end up contributing to my future garage goals.
I ran 2 setups and aligned my car only when it felt off. I make 6 marks...

2 for camber - street and track
2 on each tie rod - street and track

On the tie rods, you have to make sure you mark the direction of rotation. Just use a scratch awl on the tie rods and chalk on the camber plates. Takes about 10 min to adjust. 5 min if you're fast.

You can make the adjustment on 1 tie rod to speed things up but your wheel will be off center. Not sure if it will bother you...it would bug me.
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      10-15-2018, 09:04 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I ran 2 setups and aligned my car only when it felt off. I make 6 marks...

2 for camber - street and track
2 on each tie rod - street and track

On the tie rods, you have to make sure you mark the direction of rotation. Just use a scratch awl on the tie rods and chalk on the camber plates. Takes about 10 min to adjust. 5 min if you're fast.

You can make the adjustment on 1 tie rod to speed things up but your wheel will be off center. Not sure if it will bother you...it would bug me.
This is really helpful, thanks! It sounds like this might be the solution I have been looking for. I have some questions, I'm going to text tomorrow so I don't fill this thread up with my tire wear & alignment issues lol.
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      10-16-2018, 07:11 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamTime View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I ran 2 setups and aligned my car only when it felt off. I make 6 marks...

2 for camber - street and track
2 on each tie rod - street and track

On the tie rods, you have to make sure you mark the direction of rotation. Just use a scratch awl on the tie rods and chalk on the camber plates. Takes about 10 min to adjust. 5 min if you're fast.

You can make the adjustment on 1 tie rod to speed things up but your wheel will be off center. Not sure if it will bother you...it would bug me.
This is really helpful, thanks! It sounds like this might be the solution I have been looking for. I have some questions, I'm going to text tomorrow so I don't fill this thread up with my tire wear & alignment issues lol.
Sure...just remember I have a 316 # now.
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      10-18-2018, 04:34 PM   #31
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wow it's getting personal in here.
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      10-23-2018, 06:18 PM   #32
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wow it's getting personal in here.
Lmao, I just saw this
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