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12-13-2018, 02:51 PM | #1 |
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How to weed out the bad ones
I'm still about a month out before I can pull the trigger but I wanted to do my homework and have an idea of what to look for. I've been reading different buying guide posts but wanted to get a better idea by giving an example.
Here is an E92 that matches my "Need" list. https://www.avonautobrokers.com/1197...reDetails.aspx If it were January, I would inquire more. Good Condition, from what I can tell from the pics. One of the wheels seems a bit banged up Good Mileage Not my choice of seat color but I could live with it 1 Owner Some things that a bit worrying are the fact its at a used car dealer, the sticker on the side, and the potential of it not having service records. What are your thoughts on this car and what would you pay?
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12-13-2018, 03:04 PM | #2 |
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One bit of advice I would give. Dont buy any car you cant get a service history on. Get a pre purchase inspection from a good indy or dealer. Run the car fax (though they are notorious for not having all accidents/service reported to them). Make sure the title is free of encumbrances. Then if its has specs you can deal with pull the trigger.
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12-13-2018, 03:06 PM | #3 | |
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12-13-2018, 03:34 PM | #4 |
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Here's some things to check for off the top of my head.
1) How's the wear on the driver side bolster 2) How's the front bumper under tray looking like? Esp the two corner felt trays 3) Is the interior black rubber coating scratched in multiple areas? 4) Buy a scan tool to check for ghost codes 5) Test drive the car and check for driveshaft slop or clunk 6) If it's a private sale buy the seller if he's a OCD guy dropping $$ endlessly to keep it clean. 7) Def get a PPI done |
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12-13-2018, 06:11 PM | #5 |
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You're in Florida, the car's in Massachusetts. As previous posts have said, get a PPI done at a local dealership. When you make arrangements for the inspection, tell the sevice tech anything that you are specifically concerned about. I would also definitely ask for a compression test, a couple hundred extra but worth every penny. I would also pay for an oil change and ask to have the oil and filter inspected for metal. Also call the Better Business Bureau in the Avon Ma. area to check the dealers reputation. I bought an e90 M3 in Va a couple years ago. The car checked out !00%, including compression, but the dealer never paid HIS lender who held the title. Took me 9 months to get it straightened out. Good luck.
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12-13-2018, 10:19 PM | #6 |
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https://www.carmax.com/search#BT=0&D...ey=2&Zip=99212
Get their warranty if you are worried about issues for the next 5 yrs |
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12-13-2018, 10:22 PM | #7 |
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It's not that I'm worried about it breaking, it's more what to look for.
I linked a car as an example of one I would possibly look into. If this was a car you were buying, what are your thoughts on it from just the listing and the autocheck? Is it worth the price their asking?
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12-13-2018, 11:05 PM | #8 | |
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12-14-2018, 04:34 AM | #9 |
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If it checks out, id say 28-29 is the price point I would shoot for unless its literally perfect cosmetically. Then 30. Its the middle of winter in MA, so you have some bargaining power to get them off the 32k price.
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12-14-2018, 08:23 PM | #10 | |
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12-15-2018, 06:05 PM | #12 | |
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12-17-2018, 07:02 AM | #13 |
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I was thinking about scenarios like that in post #5. A free and clear title makes everything go smoother. I dont like dealing with a seller/dealer who might not pay a bank and then leave me dealing with a title issue for 9 months. Others experience may vary.
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12-17-2018, 08:18 AM | #14 | |
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12-19-2018, 03:28 AM | #15 | |
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I've never purchased a used car so this process is new to me. Assuming the car will be purchased out of state, I'm not even really sure what tag to put on the car or what paperwork I would get from the seller that proves I purchased the car.
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12-23-2018, 06:42 AM | #16 | |
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12-24-2018, 07:38 AM | #17 | ||
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12-24-2018, 08:20 AM | #18 |
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One last call out for you. You usually have several weeks to register a car from out of state assuming the car you purchased is up to date registration wise. You can legally drive the car from where you bought it to where you live and deal with registration once you get there. Its a good idea to have some proof with you in case you get pulled over. Along with the title (which once signed is probably all you need to show ownership), I draft a bill of sale to have the buyer sign so if I get pulled over on the way I have some proof of me purchasing the car. I also take a photo of the cashiers check as proof of purchase. Most cops will not be concerned about theft of the vehicle with all that evidence that you purchased the car.
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12-24-2018, 08:22 AM | #19 | |
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12-24-2018, 08:51 AM | #20 |
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I bought mine in VA and drove to GA. The seller left the plate on the car. There are some state specific rules where a buyer might take the plate so not sure of your situation. Thats why you want the supporting documentation just in case to show its your car.
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12-28-2018, 11:47 PM | #21 | |
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12-29-2018, 09:48 AM | #22 |
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