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      02-08-2015, 09:46 AM   #45
pbonsalb
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I cannot remember but think the whole white piece came out because I used a socket since I felt like a screwdriver was stripping the bolt.
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      02-26-2015, 12:50 PM   #46
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These coolant bleeding steps will be the same for my 2011 e92 m3, Right? I'm just doing a thermostat.
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      05-23-2015, 09:59 PM   #47
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Do we have electric bleeding pump in our cars? And I've read that we do have block plugs, 2. One on each side towards the back of the block. Anyone please check

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      05-23-2015, 11:11 PM   #48
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Block plugs are above the wings in the rear of the pan below the header merges. Not visible without inspection mirror maybe, but you can get a hex socket in there with a u joint and work blind. 2, one on each side.
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      05-24-2015, 11:52 AM   #49
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That's what I've heard PB. Going back to the question about having to use BMW coolant I read that it's Pentafrost NF. Reading the specs on the webpage it is recommended for all BMW models. The coolant is blueish - greenish semitransparent color and is LONGTIME not LIFETIME as Pentafrost SF is, but SF is not recommended for BMW. Why? I have no idea. The only difference according to the specs is that NF has silicates. This acts as a protective layer between the metal and the water to avoid corrosion. Both products do not contain any amines, nitrites or phosphorus. It says that is recommended for non ferrous systems.

Last edited by M3Bimmer77; 05-24-2015 at 12:02 PM.
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      05-24-2015, 04:27 PM   #50
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There are other low silicate coolants. Zerex G05. I run Evans polypropylene glycol waterless coolant.
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      07-18-2015, 01:28 PM   #51
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Found the block drain screws. As descried, they're by the header merges. I could see them without a mirror. Mine were 5 mm hex. Had to use a 1/4" 5 mm hex wobble and two 1/4" extensions to reach it. Major PITA. Coolant will drain everywhere of course.

Best picture I was able to take:


A little further out so you can see the general vicinity:


Mess:


Quote:
Originally Posted by vastano View Post
For those getting ready to do this, buy a brass bleeder screw from turner.

Here ya go:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-21...tion-list.aspx
I can also confirm that the brass radiator screw from Turner did not fit my car. Plastic radiator drain screw "sleeve", plastic drain screw, brass drain screw and the two block drain screws:

First I tried just replacing the blue plastic screw with the brass one, but the brass one was a larger diameter. I thought perhaps the brass one replaced the whole sleeve so I removed the sleeve but it still doesn't fit (apparently the sleeve isn't even threaded). I broke the plastic sleeve so need to buy a new one now.
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      07-19-2015, 08:19 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidZ View Post
I can also confirm that the brass radiator screw from Turner did not fit my car. Plastic radiator drain screw "sleeve", plastic drain screw, brass drain screw and the two block drain screws:

First I tried just replacing the blue plastic screw with the brass one, but the brass one was a larger diameter. I thought perhaps the brass one replaced the whole sleeve so I removed the sleeve but it still doesn't fit (apparently the sleeve isn't even threaded). I broke the plastic sleeve so need to buy a new one now.
Thats strange, are you sure you're trying to replace the correct one? The brass replacement screw goes on the same reservoir you pour the new coolant in.
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      07-19-2015, 08:18 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vastano View Post
Thats strange, are you sure you're trying to replace the correct one? The brass replacement screw goes on the same reservoir you pour the new coolant in.
Oh yeah, you're right. The brass screw is the bleeder screw for the expansion reservoir. I was hoping it'd replace the plastic radiator drain screw.
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      08-05-2015, 12:40 AM   #54
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Have we been able to figure out the total capacity? I want to run a 75/25 mix, so I just want to drain enough that topping it up with distilled water gets me 75/25. Without knowing the total capacity I can't calculate how much to drain.

Edit: Looks like it may be 11.4 liter / 12.1 U.S. qt / 10 imp. qt

Last edited by unknownNTT; 08-06-2015 at 04:32 AM. Reason: Found out the info I asked for
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      09-02-2015, 08:28 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehifi View Post
HI Guys,

I had to do a radiator flush and I can't stress enough about being careful with the reservoir bleed screw. That plastic POS broken on me and I have to wait a couple days to get a new one (can't move the car).

You don't have to take the bleed screw all the way off since it has a slit on it that allows pressure/air to bleed with it unscrewed just a bit.

Steve
that's why I got the brass edition of this screw lmao, I snapped it in my m3 and in my wife's 328i! pain to get it out!

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      09-02-2015, 08:30 PM   #56
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did you guys consider a pressure infusion of fresh radiator fluid? would that be a good solution go just flush out entire thing at once?
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      10-18-2015, 06:27 PM   #57
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Does anyone have the part no. for the white plastic drain screw 'sleeve'...?
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      10-19-2015, 02:00 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FazerBoy View Post
Does anyone have the part no. for the white plastic drain screw 'sleeve'...?
17107523260
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      01-22-2016, 02:06 AM   #59
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I was browsing through the TIS and came across the capacity of 11.5 liters, which translates to 3.04 gallons.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_se...est_e92___s65/
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      08-29-2016, 12:06 AM   #60
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I'm thinking of doing a coolant change soon. I'm not sure if I want to mess with the engine drain plugs, and I am contemplating an alternate method of flushing the whole system. Rather than draining and refilling with new coolant and wasting it, what if I drained and refilled with distilled water until it came out clear, then on the last fill use coolant only. I read the radiator plug drains about 1 gallon, so 1 fill of straight coolant would result about 70/30 mix. I'm in FL so I'm thinking the higher ratio may keep the car running cooler. Any thoughts?

Last edited by M3amigos; 08-29-2016 at 12:21 AM.
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      08-29-2016, 04:45 PM   #61
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70/30 coolant/water or water/coolant? More coolant = worse cooling, if that's what you're saying. Coolant does not transfer heat as quickly nor hold as much heat as water. Google "hydrogen bonds" if you want to know why

For a Florida car I do'nt see why 70/30 water/coolant would be a bad idea, assuming it never gets below 20f or so
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      08-29-2016, 09:16 PM   #62
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yes, water to coolant...
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      08-30-2016, 07:24 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3amigos View Post
I'm thinking of doing a coolant change soon. I'm not sure if I want to mess with the engine drain plugs, and I am contemplating an alternate method of flushing the whole system. Rather than draining and refilling with new coolant and wasting it, what if I drained and refilled with distilled water until it came out clear, then on the last fill use coolant only. I read the radiator plug drains about 1 gallon, so 1 fill of straight coolant would result about 70/30 mix. I'm in FL so I'm thinking the higher ratio may keep the car running cooler. Any thoughts?
Not sure it would come out clear, but you would certainly dilute it a lot by successive partial draining. Seems like more of a pain to do a worse job to me but if it's easier for you then it is at least better than just draining the radiator once and refilling. The blockdrain method is messy but best. Your method requires driving the car between each partial drain to get it hot so the thermostat opens. Then you need to wait for it to cool. And you would want to do this 4-6 times.
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      08-30-2016, 12:43 PM   #64
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I'm not completely opposed to the block drain, it just didn't sound like an easy thing to access and its not really clear to me the best way to do it. How difficult is it to remove and reinstall/torque the block drain plugs while laying under the car? Is there risk of damaging them and should I buy replacement plugs? Does anyone know the torque spec? Also what size drain pan would I need to avoid splashing coolant all over the garage floor? Maybe I'm overthinking it and need to just try it amd see how it goes...
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      08-30-2016, 04:45 PM   #65
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Something like a concrete mixing tray from lowes or home depot would be great. You are working by feel. You need an allen socket. Might be 5 or 6 mm. Probably a u joint and an extension. Its not big torque due to the thread size but I dont have the spec. New sealing washers would be ideal but I reused the old ones. PM the guy above who did it more recently than me. Looks like he had a lift as well but I dont think you need one if you can get the car high enough to get under it.
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      09-02-2016, 04:34 PM   #66
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Here's an alternative where you don't even need to raise the car: Coolant Flush Kit.

[u2b]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2CAr2pOva8[/u2b]
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