|
|
02-28-2011, 09:44 AM | #23 | |
Captain
70
Rep 628
Posts |
Quote:
I already have a vacuum bleeder so dont wanna go out and blow more money but if it is better may have to invest. Even though the fluid filter is so impermeable, if you vacuum very slowly with nipple loosened just enough for fluid to flow and keep fluid topped everything will be fine. elp_jc, not sure what you meant by when you said "the line has air in it anyway"?
__________________
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-28-2011, 12:00 PM | #24 | |
Major General
258
Rep 5,012
Posts |
Quote:
To use the bleeder's valve as a substitute for the nipple valve ; it's not designed for that. But maybe I understood you wrong too . Take care. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-23-2015, 04:28 PM | #25 | |
Colonel
274
Rep 2,664
Posts
Drives: Goggomobil
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kangaroo land
|
Quote:
__________________
F86 X6///
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-29-2015, 08:17 PM | #26 |
Private
42
Rep 87
Posts |
It pushes fluid through quickly and the tap point in the reservoir is pretty high so don't go for long without topping up again. You actually need to fill the reservoir itself. I started pushing air through the clutch and it went soft. But using the motive to push fluid through the clutch line again and pumping the clutch pedal 30 or more times restored the pedal. At that point I thought I'd try bleeding it the manual way. I'm pretty sure the motive would work if you didn't let the clutch line run dry.
|
Appreciate
0
|
10-29-2015, 11:29 PM | #27 | |
Colonel
274
Rep 2,664
Posts
Drives: Goggomobil
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kangaroo land
|
Quote:
__________________
F86 X6///
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-13-2016, 09:18 PM | #28 |
Private
26
Rep 84
Posts |
Just bled the brakes today using the Motiv pressure bleeder but for some reason I couldn't get the clutch to bleed :, had it pressurized close to 20psi. I ended up doing the manual method.
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-22-2016, 03:01 PM | #30 |
Private
42
Rep 87
Posts |
How do you open and close the valve doing it by hand? It was such a pain for me to reach the clutch bleed valve using a socket and some u-joints. What's a better tool for this?
thx |
Appreciate
0
|
01-22-2023, 02:31 PM | #31 |
Second Lieutenant
120
Rep 217
Posts |
Power bleeding worked well for me
After reading various threads for hours, and getting fairly nervous from all the folks who messed up their clutch bleed, mine went off without a hitch. I have an e92 328i, so it's possible there are some differences between that and an M3, but I suspect not. I also have an M2 and I'm planning to use this same approach in the future.
After bleeding my brakes, I continued on and did the clutch following this process:
A few thoughts: The fluid flowed right through for me, and I had zero issues with air bubbles. I did check numerous times that the brake fluid and power bleeder reservoirs were full. I also tapped the brake fluid reservoir quite a bit to get air bubbles out. I didn't have any issues getting to the bleeder valve on the side of the transmission with an 11mm box wrench. I suspect that pressing the clutch pedal (especially multiple times) just moves too much fluid too fast, and that might be why the reservoir gets drained leading to air bubbles. IMO power bleeding is the simplest and safest approach. I did the whole thing in less than 15 minutes. My clutch had been feeling a bit "juddery" lately, and after the fluid flush it feels perfect again.
__________________
2017 F87 M2: MGM, 6MT, AA Tune, Eibach Pro-Kit, Fabspeed Catted Downpipe, Evolution Racewerks FMIC+Chargepipe, Autosolutions SSK, CDV Delete, Vorshlag Plates, PFC-08 pads, Apex EC-7 18x9.5"
2013 E92 328i M-Sport: BSM, 6MT, 3IM+AA Tune, BMW PE, M3 control arms, Eibach Pro-Kit, Bilstein B8, BMW SSK, CDV Delete, Apex EC-7 18x9" |
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|