Budget track setup

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

This is how it starts


First you JUST need this and that, I'll be good
Next track day.... ok maybe just 2 more things

3rd track day you come back on slicks, cage , full aero, and divorced . Asking yourself how the fuck did I get here

This sounds very familiar - except for the divorce part. Ship everything to the office and burn the evidence/invoices!

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by jktx

This sounds very familiar - except for the divorce part. Ship everything to the office and burn the evidence/invoices!

I build race cars so I just put it all on the shop account 😂 but she ain't stupid

Solution , give her money to go away

[chitosss]

Originally Posted by Azeka1

2) Try to get as many consumables from FCP Euro - FCP gives lifetime warranty on EVERYTHING they sell, even Fluids! So Motul 660, Track Pads (Hawk DTC60/70 is avail for E46/E86 M), OEM Rotors, Hubs and Control Arms are all a one-time cost. -- I have no bias or affliation with FCP, purely my opinion

Does FCP give a lifetime warranty on these wear and tear items too? So do they send a new parts if I send them an original parts?

[Azeka1]

Originally Posted by chitosss

Does FCP give a lifetime warranty on these wear and tear items too? So do they send a new parts if I send them an original parts?

Yup - you just order a replacement and ship them back your old one within 90 days for a refund. You’re only responsible for shipping.

[JayR_e92]

Hello everyone,
I have a newb question and hopefully I don't get too flamed for it. Does anyone here track their e9x M3 (or any car for that matter), and is still making payments on it?

I understand the risks of tracking a car without having the title in your possession to say its yours paid in full... But if you want to run the track in hopes to become a more skilled driver and to have a good time while doing it, is it such a bad idea to track your car when you are still making payments?

thanks! *puts on flame retardant suit*

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by JayR_e92

Hello everyone,
I have a newb question and hopefully I don't get too flamed for it. Does anyone here track their e9x M3 (or any car for that matter), and is still making payments on it?

I understand the risks of tracking a car without having the title in your possession to say its yours paid in full... But if you want to run the track in hopes to become a more skilled driver and to have a good time while doing it, is it such a bad idea to track your car when you are still making payments?

thanks! *puts on flame retardant suit*

Still making payments here

Didn't think about it till you brought it up lol

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

Many track pads are fine at the intermediate level. I would recommend PFC-08s if you can get them, but what you're looking at is fine. Definitely, run them at the track, but switch back to street paid for daily usage.

I'm a huge proponent of brake ducting - especially on our cars. Ducting is nowhere as sexy as a BBK, but it goes a long way to reduce brake fade and increase pad life. Also, much more affordable. For now, you should not experience fade - maybe after a full session on the back straight at CoTA but doubtful on street tires.

Yes to the Quickfit Pro.

Camber plates are next on the list as this chassis really needs at least -3 degrees of camber up front. Without more camber, you'll be wearing the outside corners of your tires extremely quickly. Rear camber is fine at the limits of the street setting -1.8. Vorshlag is the best bet for camber plates, but a few other options are out there. Vorshlag is in Richardson so check them out.

I hope you're not solo'd after only one track event - maybe you were j/k. I may be instructing at MSR Cresson next weekend in my Silverstone e92 - look for me, and I'll give you a ride.

Cheers,
-Daniel

If you’re talking about edge addicts weekend then I’d love to take a ride - if that’s not too weird to ask since you weren’t talking to me... I’ll be the guy in a space grey e92 with silly big 33s on the sides

I was moved into solo intermediate on the second day of my first real event (cota in October) with very little track time going in so maybe the standards have come down quite a bit

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by JayR_e92

Hello everyone,
I have a newb question and hopefully I don't get too flamed for it. Does anyone here track their e9x M3 (or any car for that matter), and is still making payments on it?

I understand the risks of tracking a car without having the title in your possession to say its yours paid in full... But if you want to run the track in hopes to become a more skilled driver and to have a good time while doing it, is it such a bad idea to track your car when you are still making payments?

thanks! *puts on flame retardant suit*

Get track insurance - RLI/Hagerty, Lockton for example.

I still owe about $16k on my E92 M3, but my rate is low. I could pay it off with cash, but rather funnel money elsewhere for now. The interest rate I earn on my checking account is very close to the interest rate on my auto loan.

[gmx]

Definitely do the harness. Depending on your tracks (high speed? close proximity to walls?) you should really consider a proper crotch strap, seat, HANS/neck support. I would not want to be in a head on collision with the Schroth quickfit (pro included). Although I use one myself.

I have never been a fan of Motul fluid, you'll likely end up rebleeding it after a couple of track days. Depends how many hours you do.

Try pads first if you have good rotor life left. If not, consider the front BBK to knock it out in one go or just PFC DDv3. Front caliper is good, changing pads on them is irritating. Eventually, you'll master it through practice and technique. At that point you wish you went BBK with a pin hammer/5min change - done. +1 on PFC08. I don't know what the general consensus is around here but constantly undoing/redoing my guide pins (I never let them fall out, keep them in the OEM rubber boot) I have noticed one is not sliding as nicely. Factor in a regrease every so often. I have read so much conjecture on here whether you're supposed to only clean them and NOT regrease and vice versa.

Camber plates are a must. Wouldn't bother to do a track day even on street tyres without them. At this point weigh up if you want to do coilovers "while you're there" to save on labour. Not everone wants to DIY this and mess with spring compressors, I get it.

18" rubber will be cheaper, get a dedicated set regardless of stagger/square.
Cooling depend on your session lengths, can DCT get away with a cooldown lap every so often before driving it hard again? Does doing a cooldown lap bother you?

MDM? Turn it off. You will be faster without it. Even euro MDM (I have nfi what is US MDM, sorry) is VERY intrusive. This is also because of how the diff works! I believe you also learn bad habits with MDM, ie it lets you mash the throttle when you really shouldn't. This is really subjective sensitive topic, do what you're comfortable with. Don't use Sport button. The throttle map is trash and lacks granularity.
Soon you will want suspension stuff sorted to mask the shortcomings of the diff before you go real clutched LSD, if you go that far Budget? What budget?

If you ever drop/lower the rear subframe, solid RSFM/spherical everything else. Factory toe arms are already spherical IIRC.

[turbo_joe]

I noticed a lot of people recommending the quick fit pro harness.

Just a heads up, many tracks frown upon them because they don't like to see any type of harness without a proper harness bar or roll bar. I got hassled for running them at Summit Point last year. I have since upgraded to Sparco seats, roll bar, 6 point harness, etc.

And if you pick up a harness you need to get a HANS as well. You should never run a harness without a hans device.

Like others have said, whatever you do for your seat you should do for the passenger seat as well.

[StripclubDJ]

Yeah the amount of people recommending a quick fit style or any 4 point harness is ridiculous . Unless you have a roll bar and can properly mount a real cam lock style 5-6 point or such. Leave the 3 point in the car, is safer with the factory equipment .

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

Yeah the amount of people recommending a quick fit style or any 4 point harness is ridiculous . Unless you have a roll bar and can properly mount a real cam lock style 5-6 point or such. Leave the 3 point in the car, is safer with the factory equipment .

I personally believe a set up like the quick fit pro is not for added safety but instead just for stability in the seat. Curious why you feel it is less safe than the factory 3 point?

[StripclubDJ]

Originally Posted by jktx

I personally believe a set up like the quick fit pro is not for added safety but instead just for stability in the seat. Curious why you feel it is less safe than the factory 3 point?

Go put on a 4 point... now tighten it good, nope the center locks in your stomach now, that ain't safe.... loosen it a little , fuck now it's lose what's the point .... ok just a little tighter
Ok perfect


Now go slam head on into a wall, you go forward, center part goes right up to your stomach again as your shoulders recline forward .
We had a driver in our group riding shotgun with another driver get rushed to the hospital for surgery after hitting the wall and experiencing a 4 point first hand



As stated above, a lot of real driving events won't allow it , it's either stock 3 point , or harness bar or cage with a real crotch strap

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

Yeah the amount of people recommending a quick fit style or any 4 point harness is ridiculous . Unless you have a roll bar and can properly mount a real cam lock style 5-6 point or such. Leave the 3 point in the car, is safer with the factory equipment .

now i'm confused about the Schroth Quickfit...

so some says their Anti-Submarining Tech make it safe compared to normal harndess (their video of crash dummies seem to show it works). but some seems to advise against it still. which way is right?

(i understand that there is still a question of rollover, and agree for that 3 points might be better for rollover. but personally i think risk of rollover over on track is low at my level, so my question is just focusing on the submarining risk)

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

now i'm confused about the Schroth Quickfit...

so some says their Anti-Submarining Tech make it safe compared to normal harndess (their video of crash dummies seem to show it works). but some seems to advise against it still. which way is right?

(i understand that there is still a question of rollover, and agree for that 3 points might be better for rollover. but personally i think risk of rollover over on track is low at my level, so my question is just focusing on the submarining risk)

You also have the risk of the mounting points. If the back of the car crumples at all past the rear seat belt point your harness is no longer holding you in place.

The PRO can be converted to a 6 point if you swap seats which is how I had mine set up. Only used at as a 4 point during autocross. But at that point buy a roll bar and legit 6 point harness.

[byroncheung]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

Go put on a 4 point... now tighten it good, nope the center locks in your stomach now, that ain't safe.... loosen it a little , fuck now it's lose what's the point .... ok just a little tighter
Ok perfect


Now go slam head on into a wall, you go forward, center part goes right up to your stomach again as your shoulders recline forward .
We had a driver in our group riding shotgun with another driver get rushed to the hospital for surgery after hitting the wall and experiencing a 4 point first hand



As stated above, a lot of real driving events won't allow it , it's either stock 3 point , or harness bar or cage with a real crotch strap

just trying to understand all these... so this is not the widely discussed "submarine" problem, but fact that the center lock is located on stomach and can push towards it in a crash causing internal damage, even the body didn't slide down (submarine)?

[Chris_PDX]

If you are just starting out, do brakes, safety gear, and nothing else.

I've had students who show up in cars with aero, semi-slicks/r-comp tires, thinking they are driving gods because they play Forza for 20 hours a week and it's clear they have more money than skill.

You will learn *much* more about driving fast on track in a car that doesn't hide your mistakes. Aero, slick tires, power all hide mistakes. Driving a stock M3 fast will teach you more about vehicle dynamics and car control than one prepped with go fast bits.

That's my two cents, as an instructor. Once you reach the limit of what the car will do, then start with the fun upgrades.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by byroncheung

just trying to understand all these... so this is not the widely discussed "submarine" problem, but fact that the center lock is located on stomach and can push towards it in a crash causing internal damage, even the body didn't slide down (submarine)?

That's what I was wondering about as well. I'm not arguing one way or the other - just seems to be some very different thoughts on this set up & it's good to hear all sides.

For the record I picked up a set - didn't have time to install before my first track day - and then proceeded to order a half cage, seats, & 6 pt harnesses almost immediately afterwards. This was not as a negative against the QFP but done after the realization there was no valid reason for me to wait on a major safety upgrade on what is to be a dedicated track car. So I'm not arguing for or against QFP - just genuinely curious about people's views on them as I had heard what byroncheung was referring to as well.

[Z K]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

And if you pick up a harness you need to get a HANS as well. You should never run a harness without a hans device.

Like others have said, whatever you do for your seat you should do for the passenger seat as well.

This, do not run a harness without a HANS or other neck restraint system.

If you hit a wall, your body will stay in place and your head will accelerate and you'll snap your neck. A regular 3 point will allow your body to move in the event of an impact which is safer than a harness without HANS.

[JayR_e92]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

Get track insurance - RLI/Hagerty, Lockton for example.

I still owe about $16k on my E92 M3, but my rate is low. I could pay it off with cash, but rather funnel money elsewhere for now. The interest rate I earn on my checking account is very close to the interest rate on my auto loan.

Awesome https://www.m3post.com/forums/images...es/thumbup.gif
I appreciate the helpful info- I was not aware of this insurance!

Thank you kindly

[JayR_e92]

Originally Posted by StripclubDJ

Still making payments here

Didn't think about it till you brought it up lol

Hell yeah haha great pic! Good to know that I will not be the only one. Like I said I am very new to the whole Track aspect so I'll have a lot to learn.

thank you for your input

[Redd]

Originally Posted by Chris_PDX

If you are just starting out, do brakes, safety gear, and nothing else.

I've had students who show up in cars with aero, semi-slicks/r-comp tires, thinking they are driving gods because they play Forza for 20 hours a week and it's clear they have more money than skill.

You will learn *much* more about driving fast on track in a car that doesn't hide your mistakes. Aero, slick tires, power all hide mistakes. Driving a stock M3 fast will teach you more about vehicle dynamics and car control than one prepped with go fast bits.

That's my two cents, as an instructor. Once you reach the limit of what the car will do, then start with the fun upgrades.

As someone who has tracked many years with many cars, and instructed at one point, I totally agree with this. Good brake pads and fluid is all you need your first few times out. You will slowly find the limits of your car - be it tires, handling or braking - and you can upgrade then.

Upgrading too soon simply masks your mistakes. If you can go fast in a stock-ish car, you will be much much quicker when you start to mod.