Rear Diff swap DIY?

[decimation1]

Searched but no love....

[spr]

I've had the diff out too many times to count when tuning my OS Giken. It's super easy. You drop the back section exhaust then undue the bolts on the front yoke and side flanges. You then remove the 3 bolts mounting the pumpkin and lower with a jack. I've done all of the above by myself without issue.

[decimation1]

Originally Posted by spr

I've had the diff out too many times to count when tuning my OS Giken. It's super easy. You drop the back section exhaust then undue the bolts on the front yoke and side flanges. You then remove the 3 bolts mounting the pumpkin and lower with a jack. I've done all of the above by myself without issue.

Great, thanks!!

I'll go ahead and do a DIY write up with pics while I am at it.

[decimation1]

Forgot to ask, are all the bolts re-usable?

[IB M]

Are u swapping to lower gearing or for LSD?

There has to be a bunch of 340i and 240i guys that have swapped in a LSD maybe check those forums.

[spr]

Yes. Just ensure not to jack from the pumkin it destroys the diff mounts. You might also think about pressing them out for polys while there.

Originally Posted by decimation1

Forgot to ask, are all the bolts re-usable?

[M43S7RO]

Bumping old thread as there is no DIY for removing our specific diff.

The drive axles seem easy enough to dislodge and separate from the diff from videos I've seen but does the drive shaft come off just as easily after removing the torx bolts?

I ask because I'm getting ready to drop the subframe and seems it would be easier to drop with the diff attached. Every DIY for the subframe removal I've seen has the diff coming out first which makes me think this is necessary to separate the ds from the diff.

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by M43S7RO

Bumping old thread as there is no DIY for removing our specific diff.

The drive axles seem easy enough to dislodge and separate from the diff from videos I've seen but does the drive shaft come off just as easily after removing the torx bolts?

I ask because I'm getting ready to drop the subframe and seems it would be easier to drop with the diff attached. Every DIY for the subframe removal I've seen has the diff coming out first which makes me think this is necessary to separate the ds from the diff.

I did mine not too long ago, you need to separate the ds from the input flange with something. I used a sharp chisel and a screwdriver. The chisel to act as a backing to get some leverage and lever the two apart with said screwdriver. There's little access notches on the ds I believe. Here's a pic of my spare diff input flange to give you an idea. You're trying to lever the ds out of that shouldered edge.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by spr

Yes. Just ensure not to jack from the pumkin it destroys the diff mounts. You might also think about pressing them out for polys while there.

And this is false. BMW allows for the car to be jacked from the cast part of the pumpkin. Avoid the aluminum bits.

Cheers,

[M43S7RO]

Very helpful, thank you! Were you able to separate them before loosening the diff? I imagine a part of the ds sitting in the cavity of the input flange which would make them difficult to separate without pulling the diff away from the ds by loosening it first.

I'd like to separate the ds from diff first, if that works out, I'll drop the subframe with the diff attached.

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

I did mine not too long ago, you need to separate the ds from the input flange with something. I used a sharp chisel and a screwdriver. The chisel to act as a backing to get some leverage and lever the two apart with said screwdriver. There's little access notches on the ds I believe. Here's a pic of my spare diff input flange to give you an idea. You're trying to lever the ds out of that shouldered edge.

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by M43S7RO

Very helpful, thank you! Were you able to separate them before loosening the diff?

I'd like to separate the ds from diff first, if that works out, I'll drop the subframe with the diff attached.

You should be able to.. I think I did mine incorrectly by lowering the assembly down first and struggling on the ground with something propping it up! But if I remember correctly when I installed my new one, first, I put the diff up before connecting the drive shaft.

[TrueToBMW]

Yes, you can attach/detach the driveshaft with the diff in the vehicle (e92). There's a DIY for replacing the pinion seal, goes through all the steps of removing the DS.

Good luck

[pbonsalb]

If you ubolt the DS from the diff input flange and it does not easily come out, it should come out more easily when you unbolt the subframe since the whole assembly can then move back a little if needed.

There is some room for in and out movement in a CV joint, so don't worry about prying the DS out of the diff input flange. Obviously don't chisel or hammer hard enough to puncture the sheet metal cover of the DS CV joint.

If you had the midpipe down and removed some of the heat shielding to get at the DS, you could unbolt the center support bearing, which would allow the DS to flex in the middle and drop down. That is probably extra work based on what the OP wrote about his project.

[M43S7RO]

TruetoBMW: Thanks for the heads up,l look up the diy.

Pbonsalb: ehhhh, I'd rather not mess with the center support. I'm gonna try to pry the ds from the diff and hopefully that works out. Just trying to prepare and know as much as possible about what to expect.

I'm at this final step as I have everything else disconnected and ready to drop the subframe. Diff/ds junction is the only place I foresee trouble. Appreciate info all have shared.