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10-15-2019, 04:32 PM | #23 | |
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E90M 6MT Slicktop Single Humper in need of a diet
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10-15-2019, 04:35 PM | #24 |
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11-04-2019, 03:06 PM | #25 |
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Wow thank you guys for providing your input it really helps me prioritize on what I should upgrade and mod.
I recently went to Laguna Seca to understand the baseline for my car and boy did I learn a lot. The only mod I had was steel brake lines running Motul600 and they ended up boiling which caused me to finish the remaining session with a sponge like brake. So I'm glad we're on the brake topics because during this session I realized how critical brakes are for the track and on the e9X platform. For my next run instead of going with the BBK upgrade I will try the PFC pads and install air ducts for the brake. I was also considering switching over to Castrol SRF brake fluid as I’ve read that it won’t make your brakes feel like a sponge even after it boils? Also the body roll... I'm really looking forward to installing the KW Clubsports and running wider tires(preferably square setup). I also ordered rear solid subframe bushings. I've looked into Hotchki's adjustable sway bar, will these parts make a noticeable difference regards to body roll and handling?
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11-05-2019, 12:32 AM | #26 |
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I have boiled Castrol SRF and not noticed pedal differences....
I would say JRZ or MCS instead of the KW CS stuff. Run -3.5 front camber and -2.0 rear camber for a good start with hard R-comps such as NT01. BBK - I'd go straight to Stoptech for front and rear... or just start with front only. |
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11-05-2019, 05:26 PM | #28 | |
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11-05-2019, 05:47 PM | #29 |
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It's ~30% more when I compare retail list rates for JRZ 2-way with GC race camber plates and 500/800 hyperco springs vs. KW CS. Not a huge difference in my mind... but I get what you mean.
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11-06-2019, 12:49 AM | #30 |
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Everyone is discussing the various upgrade options that the OP has laid out, but I haven't seen anyone suggesting to just stick with the car as is to start with.
The OP didn't mention if he was new to tracking, but the car was being setup as a dedicated track / autoX toy. I'd suggest, which is what I always suggest to my students that I coach, is to drive the car with the bare minimum upgrades first. And bare minimum is usually safety related (i.e. better brakes, decent tires, cooling / reliability items, etc.). Learning to drive a stock-ish car fast is better for you long-term than going all out on the mods. As we say, Driver Mod is the best Mod. |
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11-06-2019, 12:15 PM | #32 | |
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11-06-2019, 12:18 PM | #33 |
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Yes I took car control classes and couple of driving lessons at Laguna Seca. Now I'm ready to take the training wheels off
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11-06-2019, 12:41 PM | #34 |
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Thanks I've decided go with Turner's solid rear subframe bushings.
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11-06-2019, 07:15 PM | #35 | |
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After market pads will be a step up, but you can still overheat and crack the rotors. Brake cooling can help with stock brakes, but doesn't really matter for 20 minute HPDE sessions once you get a BBK. If you are driving at 6/10ths max, or less, then an upgraded pad (such as the PFC08 or something from Cobalt (I use Cobalt)) + Stainless lines + higher spec fluid should suffice. As you get quicker, your pads will wear faster, and you'll want to check them after every session. Also, pads (and rotors) wear quicker as they get worn. It might take you 5 days to wear a brake pad from 100% -> 50%, but only 2 days to go 50% -> 1%. As the mass wears off, it can absorb less heat, which is the enemy in a brake system. |
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11-06-2019, 09:07 PM | #36 | |
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You're still relatively new at all this, just do pads/fluid and continue to run the stock brake setup. BBK is on my want list as well but probably the LAST thing I will do. If you have an unlimited budget then by all means build out the car fully if you're able, but you'll be over 10k spent quickly. The stock setup hasn't given me much trouble yet and the Cobalt Friction pads are really the way to go. Same goes for the suspension, the KW's are the best bang for the buck and well documented with a quick search on what settings to run them at etc. Second choice in my book would be the MCS for a track/autox car. Also, if you're wanting to autox consider the classing of your local events (SCCA? BMW CCA? etc.) some of the mods you may want may put your car in a class where its not competitive.
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11-07-2019, 08:15 AM | #37 | |
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Regarding suspension, I would prefer a MCS 1 way vs the KW CS and the cost must be pretty similar. It is also very clear that there are very fast people running KW CS, in fact there are very fast people driving with stock suspension with just camber plates. |
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11-07-2019, 12:56 PM | #38 | |
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11-07-2019, 05:26 PM | #39 |
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Get camber plates and an alignment unless you want to start paying for a set of tyres every time.
For BMWs/MacPherson strut cars: pads/fluid/camber plates/decent tyre at minimum. Wasting your time and money not learning much if at all without those. BBK isn't going to teach you bad technique or make you faster directly. If you have the money, just do it but do your research (replacement discs, pad availability and cost, caliper construction etc). Saves you the hassle of wearing cheese OEM rotors, maintaining sliding pins, the nitrile rubber on the OEM calipers, tearing/crumbling piston dust boots etc. Pad changes will be much faster as well on a monobloc vs sliding. |
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11-12-2019, 09:50 AM | #40 | |
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I only have stoptech trophies up front. With a setup like yours I was still pretty quick, just not consistently because I would have to do cool down laps in between and pedal feel was changing.
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11-13-2019, 01:05 AM | #41 |
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PM me if its still available
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11-14-2019, 04:21 PM | #42 | |
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11-14-2019, 09:18 PM | #43 | ||
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Still had to get them laguna since there are plenty of straights for high speed braking. Prob needed them for autoclub speedway too since your coming into turns at 120-135mph down to 40mph ish 90* turns. With even a basic bbk set up like mine, didn't ever have to worry either.
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11-14-2019, 09:20 PM | #44 |
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Damn app didn't load pics.
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