DIY Carplay/Android Auto Carsara Install and Setup Tips

[Metrics]

Originally Posted by bighindu79

check your dip switch positions. Barring any wiring issues, that would be the next thing I would check.

Yes, thank you I thought this too. The instructions say 3,4 & 7. I noted Cyberdemon reply 3,4 in a reply earlier in the thread so I changed to that - no difference at all. Odd that switching 7 made no difference either way??

Something defo not right somewhere.

[bighindu79]

Originally Posted by Metrics

Yes, thank you I thought this too. The instructions say 3,4 & 7. I noted Cyberdemon reply 3,4 in a reply earlier in the thread so I changed to that - no difference at all. Odd that switching 7 made no difference either way??

Something defo not right somewhere.

I see you have an Alpina F10. I wonder if there is some compatibility issue. Also, there are several carsara units for sale on AliExpress and it can get pretty confusing due to vague and nonexistent descriptions to ensure you are buying the right box for your vehicle. This is the carsara box that it compatible with e and f series https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMryj9r

Before going down the compatibility rabbit hole, recheck your wiring and ensure nothing is pinched or damaged. Good luck!

[Metrics]

Originally Posted by bighindu79

I see you have an Alpina F10. I wonder if there is some compatibility issue. Also, there are several carsara units for sale on AliExpress and it can get pretty confusing due to vague and nonexistent descriptions to ensure you are buying the right box for your vehicle. This is the carsara box that it compatible with e and f series https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMryj9r

Before going down the compatibility rabbit hole, recheck your wiring and ensure nothing is pinched or damaged. Good luck!

There are no issues with it being Alpina as the hardware and software is unaltered from the donor F10.
The box is definitely correct, I doubled checked the pin connection (4) for CIC and messaged carsara it confirm the unit was correct for my car before buying.

I'll be double checking everything is connected properly and nothing is damaged. I've emailed carsara too so hopefully they'll have some ideas. Thanks again for your reply.

[romero1990]

Just done mine.. The worst part is definitely tucking the bulky connector to the corner.
Does anyone has mic sound issue? I tested the call, but it sounds like walkie talkie over blue tooth.. Does anyone have this issue? Otherwise it works perfect for me so far.

[Bubbles]

Completed the install. I went with the coding route and removed the iDrive cable and wiring loop.

Rear camera (greenyi) intermittently cuts out despite wiring up a relay (6MT) and connecting to the trigger (purple wire). I tapped into one reverse light positive for the trigger and pulled power directly from the battery. I may try to tap a constant 12V line in lieu of a direct connect to the battery or run it to the fuse box.
I recall running power directly from the battery or power distribution block may cause issues with the canbus.

Everything appears to work in CarPlay and sound needs some eq tweaking. I had to bring down my AUX volume (BMW menu).

USB port in center console can still charge items.

Open items:
I use Tidal for streaming because of the sound quality (master quality), and my phone attempts to re-download songs every time CarPlay is connected. Irritating.
May be an App issue.

Airplay - couldn’t get it to work. Prompt asks you to disconnect from CarPlay and join the same named network. Odd.

Waze GPS seems slower to find location at times. Slower than if I run it directly on my phone.

Screen went black for a second during a 90 minute drive. Here is the fault code: “00E1E9 CIC: failure of a front display monitor”
The fault is no longer present at the moment. I didn’t hit a bump to cause a pinch in the wire, hopefully it’s not a software issue.

Checked for fault codes (Reingold/ISTA used) after the install (cleared) and the following faults remain:
S 0063 No communication possible with Amplifier
S 0112 No communication possible with ULF-SBX-H




For background I have 2011 CIC with 6FL but without a Combox (a small group of cars built before the combox was added for the remaining 2011 MY)

[Nazty Naze One!]

Originally Posted by Metrics

Hi PACarGuy. Yes I saw your post and tried that. My loom didn't have the CIC-KT connected, so I tried connecting again in case it made any difference but it didn't. The loop is also removed.

I'm pretty sure all the connections are good but that's something I will check again as I go through it all again. Really puzzled on what's occurring

I had the same issue, turned out the plug going to the CIC controller was not plugged in fully. The screen would flicker sometimes. Make sure your toggle switches are in the correct position as well.

[Metrics]

Originally Posted by Nazty Naze One!

I had the same issue, turned out the plug going to the CIC controller was not plugged in fully. The screen would flicker sometimes. Make sure your toggle switches are in the correct position as well.

Thanks Nasty Naze One, just taken it all apart and reconnected everything carefully and securely, but no difference. It seems to be working correctly apart from this error message. Phone pairs and Android Auto hooks up and it's working and navigating correctly via iDrive. Just every 1 min the error message pops up. Oh and I note the steering wheel track wheel isn't working (but is active in the Carplay settings).

Toggles are all correct too.

Wonder if this is a fault in the loom? I've messaged carsara, so let's see what they say.

Thanks for the input guys.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

Open items:
I use Tidal for streaming because of the sound quality (master quality), and my phone attempts to re-download songs every time CarPlay is connected. Irritating.
May be an App issue.

Airplay - couldn’t get it to work. Prompt asks you to disconnect from CarPlay and join the same named network. Odd.

Waze GPS seems slower to find location at times. Slower than if I run it directly on my phone.

Screen went black for a second during a 90 minute drive. Here is the fault code: “00E1E9 CIC: failure of a front display monitor”
The fault is no longer present at the moment. I didn’t hit a bump to cause a pinch in the wire, hopefully it’s not a software issue.

Airplay + Carplay seems to be a real pain in the ass and I think the issue stems from the phone wanting to default to Carplay. Even if you try to follow the steps to pair to the Wifi then airplay, your phone decides it want's to jump back. I was only able to get it working by disconnecting the phone from Carplay entirely and forgetting the SSID's, then pairing it new. That was too much of a pain in the ass and Airplay for me really isn't useful (I wanted to watch football one day and it was easier just to do it from my Android device).

I haven't tried playing with it since then because afterwards my phone didn't want to automatically jump onto Carplay so I just gave up.

For Waze - is your phone in the same location it normally was? This really should have more to do with getting a GPS fix which is hard if your phone is down in the cupholder for example. Carplay is just displaying the interface, your phone is responsible for getting a fix.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Airplay + Carplay seems to be a real pain in the ass and I think the issue stems from the phone wanting to default to Carplay. Even if you try to follow the steps to pair to the Wifi then airplay, your phone decides it want's to jump back. I was only able to get it working by disconnecting the phone from Carplay entirely and forgetting the SSID's, then pairing it new. That was too much of a pain in the ass and Airplay for me really isn't useful (I wanted to watch football one day and it was easier just to do it from my Android device).

I haven't tried playing with it since then because afterwards my phone didn't want to automatically jump onto Carplay so I just gave up.

For Waze - is your phone in the same location it normally was? This really should have more to do with getting a GPS fix which is hard if your phone is down in the cupholder for example. Carplay is just displaying the interface, your phone is responsible for getting a fix.

Thanks for the info and confirming Airplay is buggy.

The rear camera is my focus at the moment. Despite a relay the camera flickers and some banding on start up and engaging reverse. The camera runs fine when the engine is off, and it tested fine on a bench power supply.

It’s possible a bulb check is running when the car is started that contributes to the issue. I’m going to code out remaining bulb checks. I built a override switch for on demand rear camera, I’ll post details when completed.

I confirmed the Tidal app sucks, Spotify app is much quicker and smoother. I do not like how Spotify sounds (this has nothing to do with the Carsara), spoiled by Tidal bitrates.

Waze GPS related to the phone I used yesterday, not Carsara. I used an iPhone SE (old one OG). CarPlay battery usage seems intense so I’m going to add wireless charging tray.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

Thanks for the info and confirming Airplay is buggy.

The rear camera is my focus at the moment. Despite a relay the camera flickers and some banding on start up and engaging reverse. The camera runs fine when the engine is off, and it tested fine on a bench power supply.

It's possible a bulb check is running when the car is started that contributes to the issue. I'm going to code out remaining bulb checks. I built a override switch for on demand rear camera, I'll post details when completed.

I confirmed the Tidal app sucks, Spotify app is much quicker and smoother. I do not like how Spotify sounds (this has nothing to do with the Carsara), spoiled by Tidal bitrates.

Waze GPS related to the phone I used yesterday, not Carsara. I used an iPhone SE (old one OG). CarPlay battery usage seems intense so I'm going to add wireless charging tray.

Are you streaming Spotify on very high? I download most of my playlists to save data.

The camera definitely sounds just like a power issue. Are you sure the relay was correctly wired?

[luckyse7en]

Thank you for making this new thread. It's been a few years since I looked into this box. I was one of the few that tried the first version of the JoyeAuto boxes.

Is it my understanding that these boxes now can use OEM mic, connect carplay wirelessly without issues and no longer need the AUX cable to output sound?

Sorry, I'm slightly confused because the bimmertech video still shows AUX cable being connected, but OP mentioned audio can be outputted through OEM quadlock connection (with coding).

Also, if anyone has experience with the early boxes and this one, is there an improvement in gps location? My JoyeAuto box is not always 100% accurate with my location and will freak out and try to redirect me. Just wondering if this box is any better in terms of location detection.

If all boxes are checked, I may upgrade to this new one. I think OEM mic and wireless connection alone is enough of an upgrade for me.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by luckyse7en

Thank you for making this new thread. It's been a few years since I looked into this box. I was one of the few that tried the first version of the JoyeAuto boxes.

Is it my understanding that these boxes now can use OEM mic, connect carplay wirelessly without issues and no longer need the AUX cable to output sound?

Sorry, I'm slightly confused because the bimmertech video still shows AUX cable being connected, but OP mentioned audio can be outputted through OEM quadlock connection (with coding).

Also, if anyone has experience with the early boxes and this one, is there an improvement in gps location? My JoyeAuto box is not always 100% accurate with my location and will freak out and try to redirect me. Just wondering if this box is any better in terms of location detection.

If all boxes are checked, I may upgrade to this new one. I think OEM mic and wireless connection alone is enough of an upgrade for me.

Yes to OEM Mic, yes to wireless careplay, yes to no aux cable. The audio comes in through the quadlock connector IF you code it. This how-to is for the Carsara box and just uses the Bimmertech video to reference the instructions.

GPS is provided by your phone, not the carplay box. If you have GPS fix issues consider getting a mount for the window so your phone has better line of sight to the sky.

[luckyse7en]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Yes to OEM Mic, yes to wireless careplay, yes to no aux cable. The audio comes in through the quadlock connector IF you code it. This how-to is for the Carsara box and just uses the Bimmertech video to reference the instructions.

GPS is provided by your phone, not the carplay box. If you have GPS fix issues consider getting a mount for the window so your phone has better line of sight to the sky.

Thank you for the write up and answering questions.

I know on a technical level you are right, but for some reason my JoyeAuto box is the only carplay device that has issues with GPS. My wife's car and a few other cars I have driven have no issues with gps location and accuracy.

I know this isn't an apples to apples comparison as carplay implementation is different car to car, but I can't help but think the JoyeAuto box is the factor here.

Anyway, I shall order and replace my as of now, ancient JoyeAuto box. Hopefully I don't run into cable issues I've been reading about.

Thanks!

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by luckyse7en

Thank you for the write up and answering questions.

I know on a technical level you are right, but for some reason my JoyeAuto box is the only carplay device that has issues with GPS. My wife's car and a few other cars I have driven have no issues with gps location and accuracy.

I know this isn't an apples to apples comparison as carplay implementation is different car to car, but I can't help but think the JoyeAuto box is the factor here.

Anyway, I shall order and replace my as of now, ancient JoyeAuto box. Hopefully I don't run into cable issues I've been reading about.

Thanks!

For GPS - there are definitely external factors at play - comparing it across cars is not fair. For OEM integrations, Carplay uses the GPS antenna from the car itself. I don't believe the Carsara box gets any GPS signals from the CIC so it's reliant entirely on the phone which is more prone to interference, especially if its in your pocket or a cupholder or charger. The location of your phone within the shell of the car, the actual location of where the car is (line of sight, active number of satellites with a fix, tall buildings) all impact getting a GPS fix.

It's not ideal but if you find it having trouble try raising it to the middle of the windshield to give it a better chance to get a fix.

[Bubbles]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Are you streaming Spotify on very high? I download most of my playlists to save data.

The camera definitely sounds just like a power issue. Are you sure the relay was correctly wired?

Generally run downloaded files (max bitrate). Without getting into Tidal is better than Spotify, Tidal bitrates are considered master quality for the tracks I listen to. No artificial highs or deep bass added to the tracks (Spotify sounds screechy and bass heavy to me if you listen to the same track on Spotify (using the highest quality available).

Backup camera update: Despite coding out reverse lights bulb checks backup camera still flickers.

May try to run thicker gauge wire to the camera and adding a voltage rectifier to the equation. If that doesn’t work, I’ll run a separate trigger line to the Carsara purple line (not use the line embedded with the yellow rca cable.

I’ve already built a bypass camera switch(manual turn on) that works if the camera worked consistently.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by Bubbles

Generally run downloaded files (max bitrate). Without getting into Tidal is better than Spotify, Tidal bitrates are considered master quality for the tracks I listen to. No artificial highs or deep bass added to the tracks (Spotify sounds screechy and bass heavy to me if you listen to the same track on Spotify (using the highest quality available).

Backup camera update: Despite coding out reverse lights bulb checks backup camera still flickers.

May try to run thicker gauge wire to the camera and adding a voltage rectifier to the equation. If that doesn’t work, I’ll run a separate trigger line to the Carsara purple line (not use the line embedded with the yellow rca cable.

I’ve already built a bypass camera switch(manual turn on) that works if the camera worked consistently.

Have you tried sticking a meter to the output of the relay to see if you're getting a stable voltage?

Where are you grounding to?

[noremaC]

How/where are you guys grounding an aftermarket reverse camera? I've purchased the Amazon-based unit in the original post.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by noremaC

How/where are you guys grounding an aftermarket reverse camera? I've purchased the Amazon-based unit in the original post.

I ran a wire down to the bolt that holds the battery tie down to the chassis.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by noremaC

How/where are you guys grounding an aftermarket reverse camera? I've purchased the Amazon-based unit in the original post.

I ran a wire with a ring terminal connector to the same chassis ground point that the battery is connected to. No flickering issues at all with my relay setup.

[noremaC]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

I ran a wire down to the bolt that holds the battery tie down to the chassis.

You mention an extension cable/wire for the ground - did you have to grab wire in addition to what is typically supplied with an aftermarket camera kit? If so, specs on said wire? Making sure I have as much info as possible and all the correct materials before tearing the car apart this week.

[Cyberdemon]

Originally Posted by noremaC

You mention an extension cable/wire for the ground - did you have to grab wire in addition to what is typically supplied with an aftermarket camera kit? If so, specs on said wire? Making sure I have as much info as possible and all the correct materials before tearing the car apart this week.

Yes, I just used some cheap 22 gauge wire I had laying around. It's low voltage you shouldn't need anything fancy. Just get it to touch something metal and unpainted for best results.

[noremaC]

Originally Posted by Cyberdemon

Yes, I just used some cheap 22 gauge wire I had laying around. It's low voltage you shouldn't need anything fancy. Just get it to touch something metal and unpainted for best results.

I'll be sure to have some on hand. Another question (I'm sure it won't be the last): are trigger wires needed with the Carsara unit? Don't see a trigger wire coming from the Carsara.

Here are the backup camera instructions and the RCA cable with built in trigger wires (again, from Amazon)