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      09-01-2016, 01:17 AM   #45
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Red loctite? FTL, blue for me.
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      09-01-2016, 08:44 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I'd like to meet anyone who has torqued the BW studs into the hubs at 55ft lbs and shake their hand.

Then I'll laugh my a$$ off when they try and remove them.

Ain't no way in hell. Just red loctite and bottom out the stud against the hub.
Yup Turner recommends 16 ft-lb on their studs, which is basically hand tight. Plus loctite, of course.

I think you'll strip the Allen before even getting to 55 ft-lb.
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      09-01-2016, 08:50 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I'd like to meet anyone who has torqued the BW studs into the hubs at 55ft lbs and shake their hand.

Then I'll laugh my a$$ off when they try and remove them.

Ain't no way in hell. Just red loctite and bottom out the stud against the hub.
Double nut bro
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      09-02-2016, 01:14 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rzm3
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I'd like to meet anyone who has torqued the BW studs into the hubs at 55ft lbs and shake their hand.

Then I'll laugh my a$$ off when they try and remove them.

Ain't no way in hell. Just red loctite and bottom out the stud against the hub.
Yup Turner recommends 16 ft-lb on their studs, which is basically hand tight. Plus loctite, of course.

I think you'll strip the Allen before even getting to 55 ft-lb.
I'm glad BW fixed their instructions. Unfortunately, there's probably still at least one poor sap trying to torque those studs to 55 ft/lb into the hub.
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      09-02-2016, 01:14 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I'd like to meet anyone who has torqued the BW studs into the hubs at 55ft lbs and shake their hand.

Then I'll laugh my a$$ off when they try and remove them.

Ain't no way in hell. Just red loctite and bottom out the stud against the hub.
Double nut bro
Doesn't work.
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      09-02-2016, 01:21 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I'm glad BW fixed their instructions.
Where did you see they changed their instructions because I just contacted them the other day and they still say they recommend 55 ft/lbs into the hub?
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      09-02-2016, 02:12 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Doesn't work.
Weird that's how I do it every time.
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      09-04-2016, 12:44 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
Doesn't work.
Weird that's how I do it every time.
To get them on, yes. But not to 55 ft/lbs. the inner nut will spin not to mention that you run the nut unless you use a grade 8 or B7 nut.
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      09-04-2016, 12:45 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdude357
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I'm glad BW fixed their instructions.
Where did you see they changed their instructions because I just contacted them the other day and they still say they recommend 55 ft/lbs into the hub?
That's was RZM3 said...I just buy mine from Apex.
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      09-04-2016, 01:48 PM   #54
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Wouldn't it make sense to just torque to the recommended 20-30 or whatever because torquing the lugs to 80 will tighten the stud to the hub anyways?
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      09-06-2016, 10:28 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
I'd like to meet anyone who has torqued the BW studs into the hubs at 55ft lbs and shake their hand.

Then I'll laugh my a$$ off when they try and remove them.

Ain't no way in hell. Just red loctite and bottom out the stud against the hub.
It wasn't easy

I installed the BW Race using the double nuts, torqued to 60 ft-lbs into hub. I wanted to go to 80 ft-lbs into hub, but I was afraid of damaging the studs (you'd probably need to torque the outside nut to over 100 ft-lbs to get it to hold the stud for 80 ft-lbs).

Here's the instructions from BW, they say 50-80 ft-lbs into hub:
Quote:
Race and Premium Wheel Stud Installation Notes
For Heavy Track and Race Use
Loctite Our BimmerWorld Race and Premium Race wheel studs have the appropriate Loctite pre-applied (purple on short thread section). To be sure your Loctite bonds properly, clean each stud hole with a thread tap and wire brush (to remove all traces of old Loctite and/or debris). Follow with CRC Brakleen (or CRC non-residue Contact Cleaner) as a final clean and degrease.
Tightening Thread stud into hub hand-tight. Use double nutting technique to torque studs:
1. Thread one nut onto stud, leaving to thread between the nut and the hub face.
2. Thread on a second nut; butt against the first and tighten down, holding the first nut with a box-end wrench tighten to approximately 70 ft-lb.
3. Using the second nut (farthest from the hub), torque stud between 50 and 80 ft-lb. If you cannot reach this torque level, further tighten the two nuts together.
4. Holding inner nut with wrench, loosen outer nut. Unthread both.
When using our studs, torque lug nuts to 75 ft-lbs.
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      09-06-2016, 11:06 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
To get them on, yes. But not to 55 ft/lbs. the inner nut will spin not to mention that you run the nut unless you use a grade 8 or B7 nut.
I have separate pair of nuts to do it with don't use the ones for daily use or will wreck em
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      01-04-2017, 01:18 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okusa View Post
I would stay away from red and go with blue. If you use red and break a stud in a bad place you will end up having to replace the hub itself.
Anyone else use blue loctite instead of red? Or will blue become ineffective due to heat buildup at track. I'm a little about having to apply 200 lb-ft of torque (per Apex) to remove each stud. Also, is it necessary to religiously clean the hub threads before install? Apex wants me to use PB blaster, brake parts cleaner, brush, etc etc.

Install requires 26 lb-ft for stud to hub fwiw.
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      01-04-2017, 05:38 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong Sheng Han View Post
Anyone else use blue loctite instead of red? Or will blue become ineffective due to heat buildup at track. I'm a little about having to apply 200 lb-ft of torque (per Apex) to remove each stud. Also, is it necessary to religiously clean the hub threads before install? Apex wants me to use PB blaster, brake parts cleaner, brush, etc etc.

Install requires 26 lb-ft for stud to hub fwiw.
I just did minor cleaning, did not use pb blaster or brake parts cleaner. Just used a towel and rag to quickly clean it and make sure there is obvious debris, etc.

A couple track days and so far no issues.
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      01-04-2017, 08:54 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kong Sheng Han View Post
Anyone else use blue loctite instead of red? Or will blue become ineffective due to heat buildup at track. I'm a little about having to apply 200 lb-ft of torque (per Apex) to remove each stud. Also, is it necessary to religiously clean the hub threads before install? Apex wants me to use PB blaster, brake parts cleaner, brush, etc etc.

Install requires 26 lb-ft for stud to hub fwiw.
I'm sure it will be fine. The pain will be when you spin off the lug nuts then the stud spins off.

When the lug nuts are torqued...it really doesn't matter unless your stud isn't fully threaded in.
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      01-05-2017, 08:07 AM   #60
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When a wheel falls off?
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      01-05-2017, 08:22 AM   #61
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The threadlocker that came on the BW race studs was purple - which seems to be a low strength threadlocker. I don't think you'll have an issue removing the high strength, just hit it with some propane before you spin them out.

If you shear one on track, the threadlocker might be the last of your problems. Anybody got some stories about replacing studs in the paddock?
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      01-05-2017, 04:59 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorruptCommie View Post
The threadlocker that came on the BW race studs was purple - which seems to be a low strength threadlocker. I don't think you'll have an issue removing the high strength, just hit it with some propane before you spin them out.

If you shear one on track, the threadlocker might be the last of your problems. Anybody got some stories about replacing studs in the paddock?
As I was about to head out for first session of the day, I was re-torquing the wheels. One stud just sheared off, flush to the hub. I couldn't find a local place that was competent enough to do it. Drove 40 mins over to a BMW shop (EAS) that was luckily able to get it out for me and i drove right back to the track. Watching them and seeing what was involved, no way I could have done that in the paddock...

It only takes one ruined experience to realize that this is a maintenance item that needs to be changed out, hopefully before they break.
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      01-05-2017, 10:24 PM   #63
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I bought extra studs and lugs, but I never thought about what it'd take to remove a broken stud...

Maybe I need to start bringing a torch to the track.. or just stick with OE lug bolts lol.

Edit: Ouch.

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1&postcount=36

Last edited by Kong Sheng Han; 01-05-2017 at 10:31 PM..
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      01-05-2017, 10:41 PM   #64
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Anybody tried ARP for wheel studs?
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      01-05-2017, 10:56 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elim11 View Post
As I was about to head out for first session of the day, I was re-torquing the wheels. One stud just sheared off, flush to the hub. I couldn't find a local place that was competent enough to do it. Drove 40 mins over to a BMW shop (EAS) that was luckily able to get it out for me and i drove right back to the track. Watching them and seeing what was involved, no way I could have done that in the paddock...

It only takes one ruined experience to realize that this is a maintenance item that needs to be changed out, hopefully before they break.
How long had the sheared stud been installed and how many track days were on it? Brand?
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      01-05-2017, 10:57 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ban25 View Post
Anybody tried ARP for wheel studs?
Those things are supposed to be bulletproof but I haven't been successful in finding the correct fitment on their website...
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