Track forum general chit chat.

[dparm]

I set a new personal best at Autobahn CC today -- I shaved 1/4 second off my previous best! My new PB is now 2:40.12, down from 2:40.46...and this was on PSS whereas my previous PB was on Cup 2s!

The faster laps are towards the final 1/3 of the video once I get clear of the traffic. I haven't uploaded the PDR video nor dived into the data very far, but a cursory glance shows that I was able to carry a lot more mid-corner speed. This was something I consciously focused on today.

Enjoy the glorious Chevy small block sound!

[roastbeef]

was the higher mid-corner speed due to not over-slowing the car? what technique did you use to work on that? braking later?

[M3 Number 86]

Originally Posted by dparm

I set a new personal best at Autobahn CC today -- I shaved 1/4 second off my previous best! My new PB is now 2:40.12, down from 2:40.46...and this was on PSS whereas my previous PB was on Cup 2s!

The faster laps are towards the final 1/3 of the video once I get clear of the traffic. I haven't uploaded the PDR video nor dived into the data very far, but a cursory glance shows that I was able to carry a lot more mid-corner speed. This was something I consciously focused on today.

Enjoy the glorious Chevy small block sound!

I never noticed the steering wheel middle section looks like an actual stingray!

[crzydave17]

Originally Posted by dparm

I set a new personal best at Autobahn CC today -- I shaved 1/4 second off my previous best! My new PB is now 2:40.12, down from 2:40.46...and this was on PSS whereas my previous PB was on Cup 2s!

The faster laps are towards the final 1/3 of the video once I get clear of the traffic. I haven't uploaded the PDR video nor dived into the data very far, but a cursory glance shows that I was able to carry a lot more mid-corner speed. This was something I consciously focused on today.

Enjoy the glorious Chevy small block sound!

Nice work!

I drove my buddy's cammed C6 Z06 on track once. It was hard getting a clean lap with all that straight line speed. My PB at the track in my 350Z was 2:26 and I got that on my out lap in the Z06. lol. Stupid fast cars but as far as fun goes its almost better to have less hp so you're near the laptimes of most cars on track. You just can't get a clean lap when you have a kajillion hp. Outta 5 laps (long track) I got a 2:24 with getting 2 point-bys and never have driven the car before. lol.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

was the higher mid-corner speed due to not over-slowing the car? what technique did you use to work on that? braking later?

Yes, I'm pretty certain of that. I only briefly glanced at the telemetry but what I saw right away was that the minimum speed through several corners was not as peaky/jagged and tended to round off/flatten out a lot more than my previous best.

What I did was brake a bit later and then ease off the brakes more slowly as I began my turn in.

[roastbeef]

Looks like indi is coming back to laguna seca. I hope this helps the "track economy" going strong. I think it will keep the facility well maintained and reasonably priced. I really like what weather tech has been doing for the place.

[kyippee]

Anybody have issues with a time-sert on their engine oil pan and tracking the car? I am going to need this done sometime soon. Got a very slow leak and it was diagnosed to be pan issues. I heard Malek @ MRF has done a couple with good results, is he the go-to in LA area? Will in LA next week anyways

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

Anybody have issues with a time-sert on their engine oil pan and tracking the car? I am going to need this done sometime soon. Got a very slow leak and it was diagnosed to be pan issues. I heard Malek @ MRF has done a couple with good results, is he the go-to in LA area? Will in LA next week anyways

He's the man. Might as well get your RB's done while you're at it.

[kyippee]

roastbeef RBs? I figured with time-sert, the pan wouldn't be dropped, and thus RB would be a large incremental expense. I've been figuring that I'll replace RB later, given that I have an aftermarket warranty. P-Tech did mention we could just replace the whole pan and do RBs + engine mount, but that's the expensive full-fat path!

[roastbeef]

well, you're going to be down here. might as well get the best stuff.

[kyippee]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

well, you're going to be down here. might as well get the best stuff.

Gotcha. Thanks for the quick response - reached out to Malek via PM, may call him when I get down to LA. Fingers crossed for this to be a reliable solution.

In other not-fun happenings, my Turner Motorsport monoballs failed on the driver's side. 3 track days on them and something's odd... Shop has OE BMW control arms being delivered by the dealership tomorrow. >2x the price of TRW OEM part, but I needed it quick and apparently all nearby sources are out of stock.

[roastbeef]

That's bullshit. They rebuildable? Might be two nylon sleeves on each side of the ball...

[kyippee]

No clue myself on rebuildable or not. I called ECS Tuning and they quickly said ok, sent me an RMA form for return. I asked for a refund/credit so I can get the Dinan monoballs for future install. Shop said Dinan ones install in a much more secure manner

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

I've been figuring that I'll replace RB later, given that I have an aftermarket warranty.

Aftermarket warranty companies have coverage maximums so don't expect them to cover an engine replacement. My warranty covers the car for the next 3 years (or 50k miles) but I'm planning on having the RBs replaced this winter at around 75k miles.

[kyippee]

Ximian My service contract says the maximum benefit for any one claim shall not exceed the retail value (NADA) of my car at the time of loss. During the term of the agreement, the aggregate benefit may not exceed the price I paid for the vehicle. (mid $30k) I suspect a used engine could be sourced and installed for less than the NADA retail value of my car today. Should I still be worried?

[dparm]

Just noticed some unusual chunking/peeling (delaminating?) on the inside of the passenger front tire. In a few spots the cord is visible. I've never seen wear like this before on this exact tire. Car was just aligned to GM spec right after these were installed.

Driver front tire is not doing this. Rears are fine.

Tire Rack looked at the photos and said it's either something off in the alignment, or it could be a product of the track/driver inputs. They're claiming it isn't a defect.

Any ideas what's happening here? Should I have the dealer re-check the alignment?

[FuzzyPeaches]

Why is the specified camber range different on the front tires? And why so much difference in new caster?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by FuzzyPeaches

Why is the specified camber range different on the front tires? And why so much difference in new caster?

Ignore the specified range, that's for the normal street alignment. Not sure why there's a slight different left-to-right, but that's what GM specifies. There is a track alignment in the owner's manual and that's what he dialed it in to (see below). He actually was able to give it a bit more caster than specified -- it is adjustable on this car. Caster shouldn't really cause much tire wear, if I understand my suspension kinematics.

Here is what the manual says:

Front
Caster: +7.0
Camber: -2.0
Toe: 0.05 in

Rear
Caster: 0
Camber: -2.0
Toe: 0.05 in

Thrust Angle: 0

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by kpewpew

Ximian My service contract says the maximum benefit for any one claim shall not exceed the retail value (NADA) of my car at the time of loss. During the term of the agreement, the aggregate benefit may not exceed the price I paid for the vehicle. (mid $30k) I suspect a used engine could be sourced and installed for less than the NADA retail value of my car today. Should I still be worried?

That sounds like a pretty good deal as long as they didn't quantify a maximum somewhere. e.g. "aggregate benefit is NADA retail value/average trade in value for your car or $xx,000, whichever is smaller"

Occasionally, the aggregate benefit is a small multiple of your premium which is still a good deal.

[FuzzyPeaches]

Originally Posted by dparm

Ignore the specified range, that's for the normal street alignment. Not sure why there's a slight different left-to-right, but that's what GM specifies. There is a track alignment in the owner's manual and that's what he dialed it in to (see below). He actually was able to give it a bit more caster than specified -- it is adjustable on this car. Caster shouldn't really cause much tire wear, if I understand my suspension kinematics.

Here is what the manual says:

Front
Caster: +7.0
Camber: -2.0
Toe: 0.05 in

Rear
Caster: 0
Camber: -2.0
Toe: 0.05 in

Thrust Angle: 0

I had to go back and brush up on suspension geometry.... And now, I have no idea what's going on with your car

[roastbeef]

Just a guess, but looks like the tire is giving up from excessive wear... kinda weird since the alignment looks pretty conservative.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by dparm

Driver front tire is not doing this. Rears are fine.

Tire Rack looked at the photos and said it's either something off in the alignment, or it could be a product of the track/driver inputs. They're claiming it isn't a defect.

Any ideas what's happening here? Should I have the dealer re-check the alignment?

Recheck alignment. A lot of it looks like heat stress.

This is what a heat stressed tire with sand fused to it looks like. Picture was taken after a track day and a long drive on the highway. The tire chunks didn't fall off, they just stayed on the surface and collected debris and cooled off. That's why it didn't come off with driving alone, the tires needed a good scrubbing as well.