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[bipp]

Originally Posted by a5m

Apologies if this shouldn't be posted here but didn't want to start a new thread.

Can someone confirm if 18x9.5 +23 18x10.5 +22 with 265/35 285/35 DWS06+ will rub with stock alignment specs (pins not pulled) on an E90 lowered on Eibach springs?

Reading through this thread some say rubbing in rear while others don't, but that may be tire dependent?

TIA

My rear is unmodified for anything pertaining to alignment - I'm at -2 camber and minimal positive toe. I'm on 275/35/18 Conti ECF on a 18x10.5 +22. Here's a link to what this looks like, since I'm on coilovers but not too low -

View post on imgur.com

. I haven't experienced rubbing in the rear (and I also previously didn't when I had ~250lb of wheels and brakes in the back). I do have a 800lb spring (divorced) though, so that might help as far as travel when going over bumps.

Via TireRack, a 285/35/18 Conti DWS06+ has a section width of 11.4" on a 10" wheel, and a 275/35/18 Conti ECF has a section width of 11.1" on a 9.5" wheel. Also via TireRack, "for every half inch change in rim width, the tire's section width will change by approximately 2/10"." So, fairly close all things considered - 11.4" vs 11.3", but your tire is a bit taller by 0.4".

I'd say you will probably be fine - I haven't noticed any rubbing, and E90's seem to have more space in the rear.

[a5m]

Originally Posted by bipp

My rear is unmodified for anything pertaining to geometry - I'm at -2 camber and minimal positive toe. I'm on 275/35/18 Conti ECF on a 18x10.5 +22. Here's a link to what this looks like, since I'm on coilovers but not too low - https://imgur.com/a/6pC7qVX

View post on imgur.com

I haven't experienced rubbing in the rear (and I also previously didn't when I had ~250lb of wheels and brakes in the back). I do have a 800lb spring (divorced) though, so that might help as far as travel when going over bumps.

Via TireRack, a 285/35/18 Conti DWS06+ has a section width of 11.4" on a 10" wheel, and a 275/35/18 Conti ECF has a section width of 11.1" on a 9.5" wheel. Also via TireRack, "for every half inch change in rim width, the tire's section width will change by approximately 2/10"." So, fairly close all things considered - 11.4" vs 11.3", but your tire is a bit taller by 0.4".

I'd say you will probably be fine - I haven't noticed any rubbing, and E90's seem to have more space in the rear.

Thanks so much for the helpful and well thought out response. I think you're right, I should be fine with that setup.

Now, onto optimal alignment specs...

[bipp]

Originally Posted by a5m

Thanks so much for the helpful and well thought out response. I think you're right, I should be fine with that setup.

Now, onto optimal alignment specs...

I just looked at the page previous and there seems to be someone with H&R springs, and a 18x10.5 +20 on 285/35/18 DWS06+'s - https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=737.

From the wheel spec, you'll have an extra 2mm of outer clearance vs those pics (and inner /strut clearance is definitely no problem). It seems that Eibach drops by 3/8" (https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...75&postcount=4) whereas H&R drops by 0.6" (https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...90e92-m3-2008/).

Tbh, it doesn't look like that guy will rub much and you have more vertical and horizontal distance from your rear fenders - you should be fine for sure!

[a5m]

Originally Posted by bipp

I just looked at the page previous and there seems to be someone with H&R springs, and a 18x10.5 +20 on 285/35/18 DWS06+'s - https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=29316261&postcount=737.

From the wheel spec, you'll have an extra 2mm of outer clearance vs those pics (and inner /strut clearance is definitely no problem). It seems that Eibach drops by 3/8" (https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24731975&postcount=4) whereas H&R drops by 0.6" (https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-361-hr-sport-spring-set-e90e92-m3-2008/).

Tbh, it doesn't look like that guy will rub much and you have more vertical and horizontal distance from your rear fenders - you should be fine for sure!

Thanks so much again for the thorough response! I was making my way through the thread and didn't realize a similar setup was just before my post haha.

His fitment looks really good, and is more aggressive than mine (wish I had done the same) so I should definitely be fine.

Also Eibach states 0.8" front and and 0.6" rear, but I assume that's on a non ZCP car. So 3/8" (.375") on a ZCP that's already 20mm (0.78") lower in front and 10mm (0.39") rear makes sense given the aged stock struts.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by a5m

Apologies if this shouldn't be posted here but didn't want to start a new thread.

Can someone confirm if 18x9.5 +23 18x10.5 +22 with 265/35 285/35 DWS06+ will rub with stock alignment specs (pins not pulled) on an E90 lowered on Eibach springs?

Reading through this thread some say rubbing in rear while others don't, but that may be tire dependent?

TIA

I’m running 18x9.5et22 with 275/35 on the front and 18x10et17 with 285/35 on the rear. You’re 10.5et22 has a wider frontspacing of 0.053” than the 10et17. So you’re 18x9.5et23 265/35 and 18x10.5et22 285/35 should fit without rubbing or requiring crazy camber settings to avoid rubbing.

[TboneS54]

I'm running 9.5 et22 & 10.5 et22 E88s with 265/35 & 285/35 PS4S. -2 camber all around. Lowered on swift spec r springs (a little lower than Eibach).

No rubbing. I added a 3mm spacer to the rear to fill it out a bit more and it rubbed against that little block of plastic on the rearmost fender liner, but now that it's been rubbed off, no more rubbing.

[a5m]

Thanks so much for the confirmation fellas. Confident I'll be in the clear

TboneS54 Do you have pics of your setup? Curious what -2° looks like. Oh and also, E88's

Don't think I can get there though even with pins pulled. Not sure how more rear camber than front affects these cars. Gotta research more.

[TboneS54]

Ya I pulled pins and the swifts go pretty low, so -2 was easy to acheive.

Next, I'll be installing Ohlins and I'll adding dinan plates for -.7 degree more neg camber. The rear is easy to go over -2 even with stock hardware. I'll prob do -2.7 front -2.2 rear or so.

Here's the current setup as described in the earlier post:

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by a5m

Thanks so much for the confirmation fellas. Confident I'll be in the clear

TboneS54 Do you have pics of your setup? Curious what -2° looks like. Oh and also, E88's

Don't think I can get there though even with pins pulled. Not sure how more rear camber than front affects these cars. Gotta research more.

Not the best pic but the setup is HRE R40 18x9.5et22 265/35 (older setup) and 18x10et17 with 285/35. Front and rear camber -2.25 deg and-1.9 deg, respectively.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by TboneS54

Ya I pulled pins and the swifts go pretty low, so -2 was easy to acheive.

Next, I'll be installing Ohlins and I'll adding dinan plates for -.7 degree more neg camber. The rear is easy to go over -2 even with stock hardware. I'll prob do -2.7 front -2.2 rear or so.

Here's the current setup as described in the earlier post:

That should look great (and your car already does)! At a 10.5 ET22 up front I do rub the back of my fender liner but it's slowly self clearing. Since you're 12mm more clearance both inner and outer that should be safe.

Originally Posted by a5m

Thanks so much for the confirmation fellas. Confident I'll be in the clear

TboneS54 Do you have pics of your setup? Curious what -2° looks like. Oh and also, E88's

Don't think I can get there though even with pins pulled. Not sure how more rear camber than front affects these cars. Gotta research more.

At the ride height shown, I have no modifications to the rear and I am able to get to -2 camber. I don't think I'm particularly slammed either - I went with M3SQRD suggested ride height and alignment and it looks and drives great!

Ride height settings aren't applicable but I went with -3/0 toe front and -2/0.0125 toe rear. I was previously close to that in the front on my street tires (I think -2.9 on 245's) before I got the RI-A's and didn't notice substantial inner wear since I was at 0 toe.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by bipp

At the ride height shown, I have no modifications to the rear and I am able to get to -2 camber. I don't think I'm particularly slammed either - I went with M3SQRD suggested ride height and alignment and it looks and drives great!

Ride height settings aren't applicable but I went with -3/0 toe front and -2/0.0125 toe rear. I was previously close to that in the front on my street tires (I think -2.9 on 245's) before I got the RI-A's and didn't notice substantial inner wear since I was at 0 toe.

I’m glad you liked the way the ride heights turned out and that the alignment feels good to you. Hearing the car “drives great” is fantastic

[a5m]

Thanks TboneS54 and M3SQRD for sharing the pics. Both of your cars look great, and -2° isn't as much as I thought it'd be. If I zero out toe I should not see excessive inner tire wear.

10.5 +22 up front is ambitious! Good to know rubbing is minimal too. This is all making me reconsider my wheel spec choice lol. Would be nice to know those suggested alignment specs as well.

Seems for stock, camber in the rear is in more of a negative range than the front. I think ideal is more front camber than rear, so may pull pins in order to get closer to -2° in order to match or exceed the rear. Still reading up on the subject.

[bipp]

Originally Posted by a5m

Thanks TboneS54 and M3SQRD for sharing the pics. Both of your cars look great, and -2° isn't as much as I thought it'd be. If I zero out toe I should not see excessive inner tire wear.

10.5 +22 up front is ambitious! Good to know rubbing is minimal too. This is all making me reconsider my wheel spec choice lol. Would be nice to know those suggested alignment specs as well.

Seems for stock, camber in the rear is in more of a negative range than the front. I think ideal is more front camber than rear, so may pull pins in order to get closer to -2° in order to match or exceed the rear. Still reading up on the subject.

I'm not too sure what kind of camber you can run up front without pulling pins, but reasonably "within OEM spec" is probably fine. With pins pulled, around -2 all around would make for a good street alignment. For the rear, I think that at -2 you still won't get inner tire wear at mild toe in, and I think generally that is recommended by spec. Pinging M3SQRD to elaborate on that, as usual :P, but in summation for OEM everything:

F: -2 (or max), 0 toe
R: -2, mild toe in (0.08-0.012)

10.5 up front was ambitious but I wanted to maximize sidewall support on a square set of 200tw tires for track use. It just so happens that I live in a climate where I can reasonably daily these (with a fair bit of additional NVH on the tires), so figured I'd just go with a one-wheel-and-tire solution. I believe only Nitron and MCS can accomodate 10.5 ET22 up front without spacers. 10.5's up front might not look as aggressive as you might have thought:

[M3SQRD]

I personally run as little rear camber as possible to maximize the contact patch to put power down. My rear camber is typically between-1.75 deg to -2.15 deg (with front track camber between -3.5 deg to -4.0 deg). I haven’t had any uneven rear tire wear.

10.5et22 is a tight fit but with the correct front spring rate and length (>= 800 lbf/in, ~5” long) and tire width it’s hit or miss. You’ll definitely need a lot more front camber. 10” is easier and 285 square works well with the e9x M3. 295 would be nice but I wanted a straight forward setup.

[TboneS54]

If you were drag racing, no you wouldn't want any neg camber for full contact, but on these cars, you dial in the camber until the tire is equally hot across the surface because suspension is dynamic as the car moves.

So you actually NEED some neg camber in order to have the best contact patch possible. Depends on the use ofc.

[a5m]

bipp Car looks fantastic! Love RI-A's and can't wait to put mine on. Yes true, I wouldn't guess those are 10.5 +22, but they do look very meaty though haha. Thanks for sharing the pic

I've done some more reading, and still not sure on pulling the pins. With about a 1" drop I think I should get some decent camber but can't help but think I'll regret not pulling them. With new suspension going on I feel I should just do it since it takes 2 seconds.

I'll have the shop add ~0.10° toe in rear, and keep the front zeroed out. Seems like rear camber doesn't go less than like -1.7, so hoping the front can go more or at least match that. That feels like a good setup for a strictly daily driven car?

[bipp]

Originally Posted by a5m

bipp Car looks fantastic! Love RI-A's and can't wait to put mine on. Yes true, I wouldn't guess those are 10.5 +22, but they do look very meaty though haha. Thanks for sharing the pic

I've done some more reading, and still not sure on pulling the pins. With about a 1" drop I think I should get some decent camber but can't help but think I'll regret not pulling them. With new suspension going on I feel I should just do it since it takes 2 seconds.

I'll have the shop add ~0.10° toe in rear, and keep the front zeroed out. Seems like rear camber doesn't go less than like -1.7, so hoping the front can go more or at least match that. That feels like a good setup for a strictly daily driven car?

I guess a fairly safe test for this would be that if you are noticing tire wear up the outer edge of the sidewall, then more camber would help. If you plan on tracking the car, camber plates are probably the lowest hanging fruit. For dailying, I think you'll be fine regardless (i.e. those settings look sane) unless you are absolutely destroying backroads.

Also, found out I'm at ET17 effective in the front - my shop threw on 5mm spacers up front without me knowing for strut clearance, and I only found out when swapping pads. Guess that might explain why my fenders liners are becoming toast.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by a5m

bipp Car looks fantastic! Love RI-A's and can't wait to put mine on. Yes true, I wouldn't guess those are 10.5 +22, but they do look very meaty though haha. Thanks for sharing the pic

I've done some more reading, and still not sure on pulling the pins. With about a 1" drop I think I should get some decent camber but can't help but think I'll regret not pulling them. With new suspension going on I feel I should just do it since it takes 2 seconds.

I'll have the shop add ~0.10° toe in rear, and keep the front zeroed out. Seems like rear camber doesn't go less than like -1.7, so hoping the front can go more or at least match that. That feels like a good setup for a strictly daily driven car?

Where have you seen a front strut camber curve that will give you decent negative camber gain with a 1” drop? From what I’ve experienced you get very little camber gain with deflection on the front strut setup so you need to dial in static camber with camber plates (or camber arms but I’m not a fan of that approach) and stiff springs and anti-sway bars to maintain the camber you’ve got. E46 is much worse than the e92 when it comes to maintaining camber with deflection.

[dcarlos]

Originally Posted by TboneS54

I'm running 9.5 et22 & 10.5 et22 E88s with 265/35 & 285/35 PS4S. -2 camber all around. Lowered on swift spec r springs (a little lower than Eibach).

No rubbing. I added a 3mm spacer to the rear to fill it out a bit more and it rubbed against that little block of plastic on the rearmost fender liner, but now that it's been rubbed off, no more rubbing.

I’ve got 18x9.5 et22 wrapped around 275/35 as well. Do you think I’d have issues with rubbing without camber plates? Planning to lower my car with Ohlins.

[TboneS54]

I think you'll be fine esp in the rear. With stock mounts, you can still get almost -2 if you're lowered a bit.

I ran 9"et13 with 275 and was ok. 9et13 is like 9.5et20 "poke" wise and you've got 9.5et22

[spazzyfry123]

I'm on the fence. Will be running my OEM 219M staggered wheels. I may go square 275 at a later date, but I'll need to find another set of rear silvers to complete the set.

I can't decide between 35 or 40 aspect ratio on the tires. Plan is 40, but I've heard some grumblings of possible rub?

Front:
18x8.5 ET+29
255/40/18

Rear:
18x9.5 ET+23
275/40/18

Can I run the above without issue with spacers? My plan is to toss 12mm spacers on the front and 10mm spacers on the rear.