Break Bleed Clairification

MPower7 · 06-18-2018, 03:31 PM

Hello,

I've changed the brake pads enough times to know that process. Here is my question.

I don't know if I will be able to have all 4 wheels off of the car at the same time.

What is the correct order of changing the pads and the fluid. Is it all 4 pads first then flush the fluid? Can I do one corner at a time, back passenger pads and fluid then move on the the other three sides?

When I am changing the pads I know you have to start the car and pump the pedal a few times, is it necessary to achieve pressure before flushing the fluid?

Also, I am using Castrol SRF fluid so I would prefer to drain the reservoir on the car then add new fluid and just use the bleeder as a pressure on the reservoir and not actually fill the bleeder reservoir.

Thanks,

msan · 06-18-2018, 04:14 PM

I'm no expert but I'd say you should change all your pads first. Then start the brake bleed process starting with the rear passenger corner. If you try and change pad and bleed the same corner I'd be afraid when you press the calipers in to fit the new pads at the next corner it might push old fluid into the corner you just bled.

Someone else can opine of that logic .

roastbeef · 06-18-2018, 04:42 PM

Change the pads first. I can see dealing with bleeding while trying to push out the pistons from a pad change being vague and frustrating. I'd imagine you'd have to push more fluid than necessary as well.

dbyrd · 06-18-2018, 05:05 PM

It doesn't matter the order of pads but it does for bleeding so changed pads and bleed each corner at the same time starting with rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, then front driver's side. Farthest from master cylinder to nearest. If this is first change, baste out as much as possible first, then fill with new before starting. ...and it's brake.

MPower7 · 06-18-2018, 06:11 PM

Both pads are worn the same so I will not need to push the caliper in. I was thinking about pushing the rear passenger cylinder all the way in the push as much fluid into the reservoir as possible and then drain it. Although it may not be necessary. I do not have access to a lift, and may not be able to get the rear of the car on jackstands, I don't want to jack up a corner change pads, then put the wheel back on just to have to take it off again to bleed it.

Wow what a noob, I know it is Brake. Bonus pic from Laguna on Sat.

msan · 06-18-2018, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPower7

Both pads are worn the same so I will not need to push the caliper in.

If your pads are worn, you will need to push the caliper in even more when changing to new pads....

MPower7 · 06-18-2018, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by msan

If your pads are worn, you will need to push the caliper in even more when changing to new pads....

I'm switching between my PFC08 and OEM pads. I swap them after track days. Right now they have the same MM left on them. Both are used.

MPower7 · 06-21-2018, 02:32 PM

My plan is to buy 4 jack stands, some wood blocks and another jack. Drive the car up on blocks and see if I can get the jack to the Diff and front jack point. Wish me luck.

macdude357 · 06-21-2018, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPower7

My plan is to buy 4 jack stands, some wood blocks and another jack. Drive the car up on blocks and see if I can get the jack to the Diff and front jack point. Wish me luck.

I use the RaceRamps Trak Jax for that very purpose. I tried using wood blocks but they kept slipping. The Trak Jax are just tall enough (3") for me to fit my jack under the front bumper.

bigjae1976 · 06-28-2018, 09:35 PM

It's pads first. When you're done, the fluid should be a max level with full pads. So you'll never have to worry about the brake reservoir on the master cylinder overflowing and ruining that sensor that's right below it.

ayao · 06-28-2018, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

It's pads first. When you're done, the fluid should be a max level with full pads. So you'll never have to worry about the brake reservoir on the master cylinder overflowing and ruining that sensor that's right below it.

Exactly this.

vincE92M3 · 06-29-2018, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPower7

My plan is to buy 4 jack stands, some wood blocks and another jack. Drive the car up on blocks and see if I can get the jack to the Diff and front jack point. Wish me luck.

Highly recommend ESCO jack stands for ultimate safety.

MPower7 · 06-29-2018, 05:08 PM

Update: Success, job went well. Just bought some 2.5 inch ramps drove the car up. Jacked from Diff and front center point with a wood block for extra clearance. Put the car on standard jackstands which did not deform the jack points at all.

06-18-2018, 03:31 PM	#1
MPower7 First Lieutenant 90 Rep 363 Posts Drives: 11' e92 M3 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SF iTrader: (1)	Break Bleed Clairification Hello, I've changed the brake pads enough times to know that process. Here is my question. I don't know if I will be able to have all 4 wheels off of the car at the same time. What is the correct order of changing the pads and the fluid. Is it all 4 pads first then flush the fluid? Can I do one corner at a time, back passenger pads and fluid then move on the the other three sides? When I am changing the pads I know you have to start the car and pump the pedal a few times, is it necessary to achieve pressure before flushing the fluid? Also, I am using Castrol SRF fluid so I would prefer to drain the reservoir on the car then add new fluid and just use the bleeder as a pressure on the reservoir and not actually fill the bleeder reservoir. Thanks,
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

06-18-2018, 04:14 PM	#2
msan Major 403 Rep 1,171 Posts Drives: 2011 E90 M3 / 2012 X5 35i M Sp Join Date: May 2015 Location: Los Angeles, CA iTrader: (16)	I'm no expert but I'd say you should change all your pads first. Then start the brake bleed process starting with the rear passenger corner. If you try and change pad and bleed the same corner I'd be afraid when you press the calipers in to fit the new pads at the next corner it might push old fluid into the corner you just bled. Someone else can opine of that logic .
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-18-2018, 04:42 PM	#3
roastbeef Lieutenant General 11583 Rep 12,723 Posts Drives: E92 M3 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Orange County, CA iTrader: (4)	Change the pads first. I can see dealing with bleeding while trying to push out the pistons from a pad change being vague and frustrating. I'd imagine you'd have to push more fluid than necessary as well. __________________ Instagram; @roastbeefmike
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-18-2018, 05:05 PM	#4
dbyrd DSC Off! 304 Rep 718 Posts Drives: 2012 E92 M3 6MT ZCP Join Date: May 2010 Location: Dallas iTrader: (0)	It doesn't matter the order of pads but it does for bleeding so changed pads and bleed each corner at the same time starting with rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, then front driver's side. Farthest from master cylinder to nearest. If this is first change, baste out as much as possible first, then fill with new before starting. ...and it's brake. __________________ MCS 1WNR with 600/900 spring rates / Vorshlag camber plates / Apex ARC-8s with MSI studs / Stoptech Trophy ST-60/ST-40 / Cantrell Motorsports Brake Duct Kit / Cobalt Friction XR1, XR2s or PFC-11 pads / UUC Corsa axle-back with Fabspeed HFC and x-pipe / Schroth Quick Fit Pros / HANS Sport II / AA green filter / Coolshirt with large bag / Aim SoloDL with SmartyCam / CSF Radiator
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-18-2018, 06:11 PM	#5
MPower7 First Lieutenant 90 Rep 363 Posts Drives: 11' e92 M3 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SF iTrader: (1)	Both pads are worn the same so I will not need to push the caliper in. I was thinking about pushing the rear passenger cylinder all the way in the push as much fluid into the reservoir as possible and then drain it. Although it may not be necessary. I do not have access to a lift, and may not be able to get the rear of the car on jackstands, I don't want to jack up a corner change pads, then put the wheel back on just to have to take it off again to bleed it. Wow what a noob, I know it is Brake. Bonus pic from Laguna on Sat.
	Appreciate 1 roastbeef11583.00 Quote

06-21-2018, 02:32 PM	#8
MPower7 First Lieutenant 90 Rep 363 Posts Drives: 11' e92 M3 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SF iTrader: (1)	My plan is to buy 4 jack stands, some wood blocks and another jack. Drive the car up on blocks and see if I can get the jack to the Diff and front jack point. Wish me luck.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

06-28-2018, 09:35 PM	#10
bigjae1976 Major General 1570 Rep 8,075 Posts Drives: 11 E90 M3 Individual Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Houston, TX iTrader: (22) Garage List 2004 BMW M3 [4.50] 2011 BMW E90 M3 [5.25] 2013 BMW 328i [5.00]	It's pads first. When you're done, the fluid should be a max level with full pads. So you'll never have to worry about the brake reservoir on the master cylinder overflowing and ruining that sensor that's right below it. __________________ 2018 F30 320iX Melbourne Red 2011 E90 M3 Monte Carlo Blue 2004 E46 M3 Imola Red 2000 E36/7 Z3 Steel Blue
	Appreciate 1 MPower790.00 Quote

06-29-2018, 05:08 PM	#13
MPower7 First Lieutenant 90 Rep 363 Posts Drives: 11' e92 M3 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SF iTrader: (1)	Update: Success, job went well. Just bought some 2.5 inch ramps drove the car up. Jacked from Diff and front center point with a wood block for extra clearance. Put the car on standard jackstands which did not deform the jack points at all.
	Appreciate 0 Quote