Electronic Damper Control Malfunction

[Longshank]

So the message appeared yesterday. EDC fault. I checked the connections on the fronts struts and they appear normal. I reset the fault with iCarley but it came back right away. I can however change the EDC settings in the M-Dynamic control menu. Then using the M button, I the EDC lights will illuminate based on the setting I chose in the menu. The EDC button will not respond even though the M button will activate the EDC. Any suggestions?

[deansbimmer]

What was the code??? "EDC fault" is too generic to give any advice.

Did you check the rear strut connections?

[BOOF-M3]

This seems to be coming up a lot in the general forum lately. I typically do not look in the actual EDC threads but is this a sign of things to come for all of us as miles start getting piled on or has this been a fairly typical issue but newer members are just throwing it in the general forum as they are not aware that there is a section dedicated to the EDC. I don't want my question to be misread. I have no issue with OP posting it here, just asking if this is a known problem for years or is it a "miles used issue" and we should all expect the EDC to start failing over time.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Perhaps a faulty EDC module .

[Longshank]

It is code EEPROM error 00600A.
I'll see if I can move the post to the correct forum.
And I'll check the rear sensor today.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Longshank

It is code EEPROM error 00600A.
I'll see if I can move the post to the correct forum.
And I'll check the rear sensor today.

=> http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...&highlight=edc

[deansbimmer]

Sounds like an internal EDC module fault. Swap in a new one. I may have a used one for sale if it helps.

I don't think EDC modules are inherently problematic...I sell just as many EDC modules as I do every other module in the car. I suspect there are more posts about them specifically because owners get stuck in the troubleshooting process. They're not terribly easy to diagnose with typical DIY tools and few people understand how the system works.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by BOOF-M3

This seems to be coming up a lot in the general forum lately. I typically do not look in the actual EDC threads but is this a sign of things to come for all of us as miles start getting piled on or has this been a fairly typical issue but newer members are just throwing it in the general forum as they are not aware that there is a section dedicated to the EDC. I don't want my question to be misread. I have no issue with OP posting it here, just asking if this is a known problem for years or is it a "miles used issue" and we should all expect the EDC to start failing over time.

Nah, it's just some being too lazy to find the appropriate sub forum.

The Forum Police

PS. OP, doesn't provide more details this round but still handy: http://my.obdcloud.com/dtc_codes/bmw/dtcs?search=5ff8
And here's another one with some further EDC_fokking_about_details: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1406391. You'll find some easy ways to measure whether the module is still alive.

[Longshank]

Thanks for the links. I did STFA for the code but nothing really came up. And the code is not for any specific damper. Maybe just the moduel but the lights on the switch still illuminate via M dynamic mode. But I don't believe it's changing the dampening settings.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Longshank

Thanks for the links. I did STFA for the code but nothing really came up. And the code is not for any specific damper. Maybe just the moduel but the lights on the switch still illuminate via M dynamic mode. But I don't believe it's changing the dampening settings.

Should a damper go I believe there are individual codes (disconnect one and youll see). This one sound like potentially EDC module. Actually "cheaper" than one oem damper so may not be all bad...

[codinge90]

Completely disconnect both connectors and plug them back in. Checking the connection doesn't really help, it could look snug in there but those little pins sometimes pop out of the connector. Happens to me every couple months

[Longshank]

Ok. I did pull both front plugs. It threw the code for the individual corners. I plugged them both back in and cleared the codes. The EDC basic code came back on. Also I've been getting an excessive discharge battery indication. But that went away just prior to the EDC code. Then last night with carly left pugged in for 10 minutes I got a battery low voltage. I disconnected the battery and charged it back up. Maybe the battery is causing the EDC code. Or the other way around. Battery is 5 years old so I should replace it.
Then I should replace the EDC module. If it was a sensor input, would that reveal a separate code? I've read people have had luck with used $100 older units but the part number changed recently to an updated version and that's the one I have.
pn: 3715 6788790-01

[Helmsman]

Longshank, a broken EDC module can cause a half short cut draining the battery. A simple search will provide you with plenty of info on the subject.

[Longshank]

Ok. I'll check. I know the car goes to sleep since the start/stop and shifter light goes out. But I suppose that module can remain on draining the battery and eventually burn itself out. I will order a new one and let you know. Thanks Helmsman, you are the EDC expert.

[Skylinehead]

Hi, I just have the same exact problem and same code, would you update how did you fix it at last? Thanks.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by Skylinehead

Hi, I just have the same exact problem and same code, would you update how did you fix it at last? Thanks.

I think that this should be a necessary habit of all forum members.

Hope OP comes back to share some light on this problem.

[Helmsman]

Agree, closure on issues is always interesting.