How to check tranny fluid?

[sehrgut]

Just did my oil change and I wanted to check the tranny fluid as well but not sure how to check it. I got a DCT meaning I havn't changed it yet, just wanted to check how it looks.

And also, instead of me ordering the castrol TWS 10w60 online, what stores sells them?

Thanks

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by sehrgut

Just did my oil change and I wanted to check the tranny fluid as well but not sure how to check it. I got a DCT meaning I havn't changed it yet, just wanted to check how it looks.

And also, instead of me ordering the castrol TWS 10w60 online, what stores sells them?

Really no reason to check the fluid, but there is a plug in the side of the tranny about mid-height (left side?) that you remove. Fluid should be even with the bottom of the opening when the car is level.

The Castrol TWS is only available from BMW dealers or select online vendors.

[sehrgut]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

Really no reason to check the fluid, but there is a plug in the side of the tranny about mid-height (left side?) that you remove. Fluid should be even with the bottom of the opening when the car is level.

The Castrol TWS is only available from BMW dealers or select online vendors.

Okay thank you, good info.

You won't happened to know how much the dealer charged for 1 quart of TWS?

[foosh]

I can't imagine why you feel like this is necessary. Are you noticing spots under your car from leaks? This is not 1965.

If you were smart, you would leave the factory-sealed transmission alone, without cracking the drain and fill bolt seals. You're just begging for the possibility of trouble.

It always amazes me how many people break things that weren't broken to begin with because they can't shake the impulse to meddle.

[mrtm2008]

Originally Posted by sehrgut

Okay thank you, good info.

You won't happened to know how much the dealer charged for 1 quart of TWS?

Go to www.getBMWparts.com
or

www.unitedBMW.com

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by foosh

I can't imagine why you feel like this is necessary. Are you noticing spots under your car from leaks? This is not 1965.

If you were smart, you would leave the factory-sealed transmission alone, without cracking the drain and fill bolt seals. You're just begging for the possibility of trouble.

It always amazes me how many people break things that weren't broken to begin with because they can't shake the impulse to meddle.

My dealer says list is $10.65 ($10.12 w/ club discount).

[sehrgut]

Originally Posted by foosh

I can't imagine why you feel like this is necessary. Are you noticing spots under your car from leaks? This is not 1965.

If you were smart, you would leave the factory-sealed transmission alone, without cracking the drain and fill bolt seals. You're just begging for the possibility of trouble.

It always amazes me how many people break things that weren't broken to begin with because they can't shake the impulse to meddle.

Yes I know but I'm a curious guy, I like to explore things with my new car, but I do as you say, I'll just leave it alone.

You will probably break things if you're not careful, but if the guys at the dealer can do it, so can you.

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

My dealer says list is $10.65 ($10.12 w/ club discount).

Thats a really good price, I just went to my BMW dealer today and they quoted my $12/quart. What ripoff compared to your dealer, o well, I shouldn't really argue with them about +$1,35/quart, but just wondered why.

[King Tut]

I called both my local dealers. One wanted $10/liter and one wanted $12/liter. Guess which dealership gets all my business.

[JCtx]

Originally Posted by sehrgut

Yes I know but I'm a curious guy, I like to explore things with my new car, but I do as you say, I'll just leave it alone.

It's just a freaking check plug for crissakes (directed to the doomsayers, not you ); you can check it at any time, and it's actually a pretty good idea to make sure it's filled up to capacity, but the biggest challenge is to do it with the car level. That requires a lift, or putting the car in jack stands at the 4 outboard jacking pads. I DON'T recommend lifting the car in your garage with one side already in jack stands; it's dangerous, but many folks still do it. What I'd do if I needed to do that is put the car in ramps in the front, then lift the rear perfectly level with the jack stands (highest setting that clears them) under the pads for safety. If low (that you can't feel the level with your finger), you can ask dealer to fill it up for you, but then comes the second challenge of making sure it's the right fluid.

The only reason I'd leave it alone is because of the lifting issue, not the plug itself. Take care.

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by elp_jc;6204970.

.. but the biggest challenge is to do it with the car level. That requires a lift, or putting the car in jack stands at the 4 outboard jacking pads. I DON'T recommend lifting the car in your garage with one side already in jack stands; it's dangerous, but many folks still do it. What I'd do if I needed to do that is put the car in ramps in the front, then lift the rear perfectly level with the jack stands (highest setting that clears them) under the pads for safety.

That's basically the lifting method I use, but I find it easier to back up the rear onto ramps, as there is more clearance for the ramp than at the front.

[sehrgut]

Originally Posted by King Tut

I called both my local dealers. One wanted $10/liter and one wanted $12/liter. Guess which dealership gets all my business.

Oh snap, huge different. I know right, just for being greedy with oil they lose a important customar who would give them more money from repairs in the future (hopeefully not hehe). But I know what youre saying.

Originally Posted by elp_jc

It's just a freaking check plug for crissakes (directed to the doomsayers, not you ); you can check it at any time, and it's actually a pretty good idea to make sure it's filled up to capacity, but the biggest challenge is to do it with the car level. That requires a lift, or putting the car in jack stands at the 4 outboard jacking pads. I DON'T recommend lifting the car in your garage with one side already in jack stands; it's dangerous, but many folks still do it. What I'd do if I needed to do that is put the car in ramps in the front, then lift the rear perfectly level with the jack stands (highest setting that clears them) under the pads for safety. If low (that you can't feel the level with your finger), you can ask dealer to fill it up for you, but then comes the second challenge of making sure it's the right fluid.

The only reason I'd leave it alone is because of the lifting issue, not the plug itself. Take care.

Nice so there is a checkplug, i gotta look it up and check it out, if the bolt is sealed I can just reseal it with special sauce right?
thanks for info.

[Lemans_Blue_M]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

That's basically the lifting method I use, but I find it easier to back up the rear onto ramps, as there is more clearance for the ramp than at the front.

Yes, that is the way I lift the car onto jack stands as well.

It's also a much SAFER way to jack up your car, since you can apply the rear emergency brake to prevent the car from moving while you are jacking up the front.

If you drive up onto the ramps with the front of the car, it's a risky proposition...since the car could potentially roll backwards as you are lifting the rear with the jack. That's why I would never do it that way.

BTW: Nice oil extractor. But why do you use an extractor, instead of the oil plug drain technique? Any small metallic particles in the oil pan would be flushed out when you pull the plug out. Ever done a Blackstone oil analysis on your used oil to see what is shows? It's a cheap tool that can help you monitor the health of your internal engine components.

[JAJ]

Originally Posted by Lemans_Blue_M

Yes, that is the way I lift the car onto jack stands as well.

It's also a much SAFER way to jack up your car, since you can apply the rear emergency brake to prevent the car from moving while you are jacking up the front.

If you drive up onto the ramps with the front of the car, it's a risky proposition...since the car could potentially roll backwards as you are lifting the rear with the jack. That's why I would never do it that way.

BTW: Nice oil extractor. But why do you use an extractor, instead of the oil plug drain technique? Any small metallic particles in the oil pan would be flushed out when you pull the plug out. Ever done a Blackstone oil analysis on your used oil to see what is shows? It's a cheap tool that can help you monitor the health of your internal engine components.

I bought a lift so the car goes straight up. Safest of all methods.

Greg, where does the extractor tube in the picture go? There's no dipstick hole to put it down.

[Lemans_Blue_M]

Originally Posted by JAJ

I bought a lift so the car goes straight up. Safest of all methods.

Greg, where does the extractor tube in the picture go? There's no dipstick hole to put it down.

I assume he uses the oil fill hole on the engine cover.

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by Lemans_Blue_M

BTW: Nice oil extractor. But why do you use an extractor, instead of the oil plug drain technique? Any small metallic particles in the oil pan would be flushed out when you pull the plug out.

I only use the extractor on the E92 to suck the little bit of oil out of the bottom of the filter housing. No way to extract all the oil, since we aren't provided a dipstick.

[Lemans_Blue_M]

Originally Posted by GregW / Oregon

I only use the extractor on the E92 to suck the little bit of oil out of the bottom of the filter housing. No way to extract all the oil, since we aren't provided a dipstick.

Really? You use the extractor for that?

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by Lemans_Blue_M

Really? You use the extractor for that?

Didn't have a used turkey baster around. I did use the extractor on my E46 for the mid-point changes.

[kenwelch]

Originally Posted by sehrgut

Just did my oil change and I wanted to check the tranny fluid as well but not sure how to check it. I got a DCT meaning I havn't changed it yet, just wanted to check how it looks.

And also, instead of me ordering the castrol TWS 10w60 online, what stores sells them?

Thanks

With the M-DCT transmission do not just remove the side check plug to check the level.

This is from SIB 28 03 08 step #5:
"5. For checking the fluid level:
Carefully start removing the filler plug until the DCTF-1 fluid starts to flow.
Do not remove the filler plug completely!!!
With the correct fluid level and the gearbox filler plug removed while the engine is NOT running, approximately 1.5 liters of transmission fluid will escape, leaving the gearbox underfilled. (The total capacity of the DCT transmission with oil cooler and cooler lines is approximately 9.5 liters.)"

I have attached the complete document. You will need to follow the "Service Plan" on the DIS tester to get the level correct. You may want to leave this to the dealer.

[sehrgut]

Originally Posted by kenwelch

With the M-DCT transmission do not just remove the side check plug to check the level.

This is from SIB 28 03 08 step #5:
"5. For checking the fluid level:
Carefully start removing the filler plug until the DCTF-1 fluid starts to flow.
Do not remove the filler plug completely!!!
With the correct fluid level and the gearbox filler plug removed while the engine is NOT running, approximately 1.5 liters of transmission fluid will escape, leaving the gearbox underfilled. (The total capacity of the DCT transmission with oil cooler and cooler lines is approximately 9.5 liters.)"

I have attached the complete document. You will need to follow the "Service Plan" on the DIS tester to get the level correct. You may want to leave this to the dealer.

Oh thanks. Perfect. Good info. No I never checked it cause no reason to do so really. I'll let dealer handle the tranny fluid .

[foosh]

Originally Posted by kenwelch

With the M-DCT transmission do not just remove the side check plug to check the level.

This is from SIB 28 03 08 step #5:
"5. For checking the fluid level:
Carefully start removing the filler plug until the DCTF-1 fluid starts to flow.
Do not remove the filler plug completely!!!
With the correct fluid level and the gearbox filler plug removed while the engine is NOT running, approximately 1.5 liters of transmission fluid will escape, leaving the gearbox underfilled. (The total capacity of the DCT transmission with oil cooler and cooler lines is approximately 9.5 liters.)"

I have attached the complete document. You will need to follow the "Service Plan" on the DIS tester to get the level correct. You may want to leave this to the dealer.

You're such a "doomsayer."

I knew I had seen reference to this bulletin somewhere, and I knew the DCT was a very different animal, but I couldn't place it when I responded above. I just hate to see people screw things up when they are clueless about what they are doing.

With the new technology stuff on cars today, one should never make assumptions like, "it's just a freaking check plug. . ." like trannie check plugs in old school stuff.

The same goes for many other systems. It's bad enough that dealer mechanics can't keep up with the new stuff, without garage rookies making it worse.

[JCtx]

Originally Posted by Lemans_Blue_M

If you drive up onto the ramps with the front of the car, it's a risky proposition...since the car could potentially roll backwards as you are lifting the rear with the jack.

Not if you choke the wheels . Just like checking the fluid, you have to know what the heck you're doing. As I said, either method is not the best, but if you're careful it can be done safely.

You can buy that vacuum extractor at Griot's Garage; that's where I bought mine.

Originally Posted by foosh

With the new technology stuff on cars today, one should never make assumptions like, "it's just a freaking check plug. . ."

IT IS just a freaking plug; you just have to know how what you're doing, from how to check the level to what oil to use; no rocket science. Same with engine oil, same with bleeding the brakes. But yes, doing any maintenance on modern cars (especially this) without a service manual or specific written instructions you can trust is never advisable. With instructions and proper tools I've always done everything to my cars and motorcycles and never had a problem so far. By the way, on most automatic transmissions (yes, DCT is an automatic ), the engine has to be running to check oil level (on Hondas, engine has to be shut off and oil checked immediately thereafter); nothing surprising there. Good day.

[GregW / Oregon]

Originally Posted by kenwelch

With the M-DCT transmission do not just remove the side check plug to check the level.

This is from SIB 28 03 08 step #5:
"5. For checking the fluid level:
Carefully start removing the filler plug until the DCTF-1 fluid starts to flow.
Do not remove the filler plug completely!!!
With the correct fluid level and the gearbox filler plug removed while the engine is NOT running, approximately 1.5 liters of transmission fluid will escape, leaving the gearbox underfilled. (The total capacity of the DCT transmission with oil cooler and cooler lines is approximately 9.5 liters.)"

I have attached the complete document. You will need to follow the "Service Plan" on the DIS tester to get the level correct. You may want to leave this to the dealer.

Good info. Even the manual tranny has an oil cooler, so capacity is far greater than the typical transmission.