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      04-14-2021, 06:20 PM   #45
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Ok I've changed the pump, I went wheel lock to wheel lock pre and post start up but the pump is still whining like a Mofo. I'm afraid to let it keep running in case I'm not doing something right so I shut it down. Any help?
Did you follow Busham's bleeding procedure?

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=18425381
No I sure didn't, I just refilled the reservoir and topped it off when it got low. Now that I'm reading it I have no new clamps left or a vacuum plug to flush.
... be aware that the belt pulleys can also make noise, that sound like a dying pump.
If I can't do a proper bleeding process, should I just suck out reservoir fluid and change it a few times. It's dirty already so I assume it's fixed with the old stuff still in the R&P
If you can't remove the return line from the reservoir and cap the return nipple on the the reservoir, I guess the next best thing is to still follow the rest of Bushum's procedure, even though it will just dump the dirty fluid back to the reservoir?
But at least the air in the system would be purged.
But if the dirty fluid or a clogged reservoir filter is what killed the pump in the first place, then I don't know why I would expect a different outcome?

(Personally, I'd bite the bullet and get a new reservoir, with new filter, some rubber caps, a new hose clamp and do the full on Bushum procedure.)
I did that, and I pulled three reservoirs full of fluid since I had 2 liters of new stuff. Seems to be much clearer and the sounds is gone.
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      04-14-2021, 08:17 PM   #46
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I changed my pump because of metal flakes in the fluid. I also had a whiny on rpm changed. I successfully changed the pump, but the sound is still there, whining on rpm change range but not on wheel turning. Is there something else I should be chasing? Could it possibly be from dirty fluid still? Not sure how sensitive they are to dirty fluid (I added new fluid but did not follow flush DIY)
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      04-14-2021, 08:35 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by BlueM3Wagon View Post
I changed my pump because of metal flakes in the fluid. I also had a whiny on rpm changed. I successfully changed the pump, but the sound is still there, whining on rpm change range but not on wheel turning. Is there something else I should be chasing? Could it possibly be from dirty fluid still? Not sure how sensitive they are to dirty fluid (I added new fluid but did not follow flush DIY)
Wait so you let the old fluid with metal flakes run through the new pump?...
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      04-14-2021, 08:40 PM   #48
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I changed my pump because of metal flakes in the fluid. I also had a whiny on rpm changed. I successfully changed the pump, but the sound is still there, whining on rpm change range but not on wheel turning. Is there something else I should be chasing? Could it possibly be from dirty fluid still? Not sure how sensitive they are to dirty fluid (I added new fluid but did not follow flush DIY)
Wait so you let the old fluid with metal flakes run through the new pump?...
I drained all the fluid as much as I could, changed the reservoir and hoses but some fluid I assume still in the Rack must have pushed through and mixed with some of the new fluid.

Because some rack fluid mixed and went through the pump did I just fuck this one too?
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      04-14-2021, 09:19 PM   #49
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I drained all the fluid as much as I could, changed the reservoir and hoses but some fluid I assume still in the Rack must have pushed through and mixed with some of the new fluid.

Because some rack fluid mixed and went through the pump did I just fuck this one too?
It's possible. You definitely want to flush the system very thoroughly right off the bat.
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      04-14-2021, 09:22 PM   #50
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I changed my pump because of metal flakes in the fluid. I also had a whiny on rpm changed. I successfully changed the pump, but the sound is still there, whining on rpm change range but not on wheel turning. Is there something else I should be chasing? Could it possibly be from dirty fluid still? Not sure how sensitive they are to dirty fluid (I added new fluid but did not follow flush DIY)
Wait so you let the old fluid with metal flakes run through the new pump?...
I drained all the fluid as much as I could, changed the reservoir and hoses but some fluid I assume still in the Rack must have pushed through and mixed with some of the new fluid.

Because some rack fluid mixed and went through the pump did I just fuck this one too?
Hopefully what was in the rack was downstream of the pump and was filtered in the reservoir.

This video is of my car with a bad idler pulley.
It also sounds like a PS pump on its last breath.

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      04-14-2021, 09:32 PM   #51
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I changed my pump because of metal flakes in the fluid. I also had a whiny on rpm changed. I successfully changed the pump, but the sound is still there, whining on rpm change range but not on wheel turning. Is there something else I should be chasing? Could it possibly be from dirty fluid still? Not sure how sensitive they are to dirty fluid (I added new fluid but did not follow flush DIY)
Wait so you let the old fluid with metal flakes run through the new pump?...
I drained all the fluid as much as I could, changed the reservoir and hoses but some fluid I assume still in the Rack must have pushed through and mixed with some of the new fluid.

Because some rack fluid mixed and went through the pump did I just fuck this one too?
Hopefully what was in the rack was downstream of the pump and was filtered in the reservoir.

This video is of my car with a bad idler pulley.
It also sounds like a PS pump on its last breath.

Sounds very close to this. I'm going to get material for a flush tomorrow and see what it sounds like. Might as well order an idler pulley too.
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      04-14-2021, 09:37 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by BlueM3Wagon View Post
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Originally Posted by Bartledoo View Post
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Originally Posted by BlueM3Wagon View Post
I changed my pump because of metal flakes in the fluid. I also had a whiny on rpm changed. I successfully changed the pump, but the sound is still there, whining on rpm change range but not on wheel turning. Is there something else I should be chasing? Could it possibly be from dirty fluid still? Not sure how sensitive they are to dirty fluid (I added new fluid but did not follow flush DIY)
Wait so you let the old fluid with metal flakes run through the new pump?...
I drained all the fluid as much as I could, changed the reservoir and hoses but some fluid I assume still in the Rack must have pushed through and mixed with some of the new fluid.

Because some rack fluid mixed and went through the pump did I just fuck this one too?
...did you install a new reservoir as well?
I was just thinking that the filter in your old reservoir is not likely flowing very well, if it was collecting debris from the wounded pump.
The suction path to any pump needs to flow as freely as possible.
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      04-14-2021, 09:45 PM   #53
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I changed my pump because of metal flakes in the fluid. I also had a whiny on rpm changed. I successfully changed the pump, but the sound is still there, whining on rpm change range but not on wheel turning. Is there something else I should be chasing? Could it possibly be from dirty fluid still? Not sure how sensitive they are to dirty fluid (I added new fluid but did not follow flush DIY)
Wait so you let the old fluid with metal flakes run through the new pump?...
I drained all the fluid as much as I could, changed the reservoir and hoses but some fluid I assume still in the Rack must have pushed through and mixed with some of the new fluid.

Because some rack fluid mixed and went through the pump did I just fuck this one too?
...did you install a new reservoir as well?
I was just thinking that the filter in your old reservoir is not likely flowing very well, if it was collecting debris from the wounded pump.
The suction path to any pump needs to flow as freely as possible.
Yes new reservoir and hoses. I'm kicking myself for missing such a simple diy step. Don't know how I missed the flush part.
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      04-15-2021, 02:50 PM   #54
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Did a complete flush. Still having sounds and fluid is clear. Going to swap the idler pulley along with all belts and tensioners
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      04-15-2021, 05:10 PM   #55
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Did a complete flush. Still having sounds and fluid is clear. Going to swap the idler pulley along with all belts and tensioners
Here is a link that shows all the pulley wheels.

https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=26791901
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      04-28-2021, 10:30 PM   #56
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FYI anyone chasing whine assuming it's power steering pump or pulleys. Just changed everything, pump, all three pulleys, both belts and still had whine. Took belts off, still had whine. After some research seems it's the oil pump gear lash out of spec. See both of these threads

Whine from engine bay... video https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1084764

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1284405

Now a wait from the Indy to tell me how much it's going to cost. Wish I would have known this when I had my rod bearings done 2k miles ago!
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      06-19-2021, 11:03 PM   #57
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Thanks for the info! I had the car up last week with someone turning from lock to lock and didn't see any leak on the steering rack and a ton of fluid/grime build up on the PS pump. Just got the new pump in todayand will hopefully be on the car tomorrow.
Unrelated: That fluid/grime on the PS pump is most likely engine oil from your oil filter housing. That gasket needs replaced if your car has 100k+ miles.
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      08-21-2021, 03:10 AM   #58
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Hi all new here

So after my ps steering went I too came across this post

Let me first say with the all the photos up and the descriptions a lot of you have made it sound so hard to do when truly it’s so easy especially if you do it this way ... ps I am a qualified mechanic but never done one these before

So here we go

Jack car up on axles stands only at front

Remove the air filter box
Remove the air intake duck

Take off coolant cap ( engine cold obviously)
Bottom of rad undo the drain screw ( mine was blue) drain all coolant

Unclip pipes off bottom rad


Remove top rad hose ( need to proper wiggle with patients lol ) Unclip the overflow off rad

Unclip bottom rad hose ( only from the engine side which is on top engine ) and unclip from plastic Holden clip

Unplug rad fan electric plug
Remove torx screw above plug
Then there are to plastic stays keeping the fan in secure one each end

Pull these and lift up and remove fan

Undo ps pulley bolts x3 but only loosen them off

Take off ps belt - remember which way it goes on a photo or quick drawing

Then take off pulley - it’s stuck and it’s nylon so no tools or it break

Completely remove - belt tensioner 2x 13mm

Completely remove roller - to the right besides ps pump and under oil filter housing

Each end of the ps pump the pipes held in place remove the 2 screws both on the bottom of engine 10mm

Now undo the 3 bolts holding the ps pump to the engine ( not the ones holding the ps to the bracket)

now you are free pull the ps towards the rad

Note - the pipes are still attached

Put a pan under car

Undo the bolt first

With one hand firmly on the pump ... you a ratchet to undo bolt

Be carefully the washer falls out it’s- have a fresh one ready it sits on the pump

Now slightly twist the pump and put a flat head screw driver between the top clamp - pop and you done ....


No fuss no hassle no tight spaces and I got chunky fingers lol

Hope this helps anyone in the future

To put it back do all above in reverse
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      07-19-2023, 11:28 AM   #59
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i was able to do this job w/o disconnecting the coolant lines and draining the coolant.
a bit more space-constrained but pretty doable.

the only watch out is the power steering pulley. it is very brittle.
get a replacement just in case. i wasn't able to remove mine without breaking it
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