VANOS Washers

[charliev68]

Remove Valve Covers and Timing Covers

Set Timing and Lock Bank 1 at 10* BTDC (T)
Lock Exhaust Phaser with tool (optional)
Pry off old VANOS Covers

Remove cam bolts and install VANOS Plates with new bolts (Reverse Threads)

Stretch Bolts and Set Timing:
Do for both EX Cam and IN Cam (Remove EX side first, Install IN side first)
Hand Tight, 10NM, 20NM, 80NM, 200*, Back Off, 10NM
Unpin Crank and turn engine to TDC (O)
10NM, 20NM, 80NM, 200*

Set Timing and Lock Bank 2 at 10* BTDC (T)
Lock Exhaust Phaser with tool (optional)
Pry off old VANOS Covers

Remove cam bolts and install VANOS Plates with new bolts (Reverse Threads)

Stretch Bolts and Set Timing:
Do for both EX Cam and IN Cam
Hand Tight, 10 NM, 20NM, 80NM, 200*, Back Off, 10NM
Unpin Crank and turn engine to TDC (O)
10NM, 20NM, 80NM, 200*

Anyone in SoCal need help, let me know!

[Redd]

Are these the Carbahn washers? Do you re-use the stock (small) washer under the bolt, or replace that with the new vanos washers?

[charliev68]

Disregard the washer. The Carbahn plate acts as the washer. Lol, I would say, Carbahn is basically an oversized washer.

[Redd]

Yes pretty much. Thanks for the detailed writeup!

[charliev68]

What’s needed

[spammysammich]

Sorry if this is a dumb question but do you end up doing the timing (including pre-tensioning and bolt stretching) 4 times? Each cam gear being timed independently?

[charliev68]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

Sorry if this is a dumb question but do you end up doing the timing (including pre-tensioning and bolt stretching) 4 times? Each cam gear being timed independently?

You do one Bank at a time, each Phaser at a time. Stretch the bolt at (T) then advance the engine to (O) for final stretch/torque. So, yes, 4 times in 2 stages.

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by charliev68

You do one Bank at a time, each Phaser at a time. Stretch the bolt at (T) then advance the engine to (O) for final stretch/torque. So, yes, 4 times in 2 stages.

Gotcha that makes sense. Doesn’t seem terribly difficult if you have the tools and good work instructions. I have access to ISTA and want to learn this eventually

[charliev68]

If it’s your first time doing it, I suggest having an extra set of bolts on stand by. The first time I did it, I got confused and stretched the bolts at the wrong stages. Had to wait for new bolts and start all over.

[spammysammich]

I think that step where you back off then put on 10NM before moving to TDC is gonna trip a lot of us up. Very essential to give the phaser the right tension to be able to retard and advance properly.

[spammysammich]

I think I would want to sharpie the washer at 10 BTDC so I could see the movement of the washer/phaser.

[charliev68]

Yeah, because the first time you get all nervous and anxious. Just work slow and stay focused!
I’ve seen people do it, then start up the car and get the timing error message! Sucks because you have to go back and do it all again

[spammysammich]

Some people also think that you can spin the crank 360 degrees to check timing. Don’t forget folks, two full spins of the crank to get back to a full revolution of a cam. Made that mistake with my Subaru once.

[charliev68]

Yes, that’s something I forgot to mention. Before you attempt this job, you might want to get a full understanding of engine timing. Learn it to the point where you can check the timing with the tool in your sleep!

[gkgsvensson]

Reading through TIS forensically, the one difference I see between your process and that one is that TIS says set crank at TDC FIRST, then lock cams, then remove central bolts, THEN go 10 degrees before, then stretch/unstretch, THEN TDC, then final stretch.

You suggest lock cams and removal of bolts at 10 degrees before TDC, so only one adjustement is made to the crank. Im confused why you do it this way, but I suppose it works? Maybe i misread TIS?

[charliev68]

Both ways come to the same conclusion. Just as long as the final stretch is done at TDC, ensuring the chain is tight.