Mr12Volt P2000 - Carplay/Android Auto w/M.O.S.T *New Model Update*

[fdrxseven]

Originally Posted by huntsgk12

You still had to code it though, right? Where in the loop was open? did you have to use the extra tiny loop they sent you along with the orange loop with three most connections?

i did not have to code anything, because i have a CD changer in the trunk, therefore i used the loop connector to disable its function instead.

you need to disable cd changer if there is one, or activate CDC if there is none.

[SteelFK1]

Hello,

I finally, after the black box had no bass, today received the blue box.

I have 2 problems... At the beginning everything worked, I could go into the menu where you can select Video / Carplay, Settings & more, also I found the equalizer and tested a bit.

My problem now is that I can no longer get into the menu, the music is running via USB, but I only see what I uploaded as a picture now here.

But my biggest problem is that I still have no bass, is the system in my car so extremely bad or is something wrong with the blue box?
My old e92 with a professional radio had a very good sound, this one from the E91 is really terrible ... I tried on the equalizer to make more bass, also works, but what comes out is no bass... this is just extremely artificial, the speakers sound really unhealthy.

I can not imagine that BMW would ever install such bad speakers... what's the problem

My VIN (if anyone wants to check the equipment): WBAUX31020A210829
I mean that already has the Hifi speaker systems installed, my old e92 had these too and there the sound (via CD) was much much better.

[SteelFK1]

The problem with getting into the menu seems to be solved.

The problem that the sound is terrible still exists.... as if I listen via Aux, the equalizer brings unfortunately nothing at all, I make more bass, so everything sounds extremely artificial and has nothing to do with bass....

In my e92 was a Hi-Fi system installed and the sound was great, the e90 also has ne Hi-Fi system but the sound is terrible ... can it be that the Mr12Volt box has a fault?

[tdott]

Originally Posted by SteelFK1

The problem with getting into the menu seems to be solved.

The problem that the sound is terrible still exists.... as if I listen via Aux, the equalizer brings unfortunately nothing at all, I make more bass, so everything sounds extremely artificial and has nothing to do with bass....

In my e92 was a Hi-Fi system installed and the sound was great, the e90 also has ne Hi-Fi system but the sound is terrible ... can it be that the Mr12Volt box has a fault?

Are you sure you are comparing the same type of sound systems? Top Hifi in M3s are different than Base HiFi in lower models.

But that shouldn't matter, take a USB file play it using the stock CCC/CIC, then play the same file in the Mr.12volt interface and see if there is a difference.

Also I prefer to leave the equalizer flat in the 12volt UI, and only use the stock system to make changes. The 12volt equalizer seems to add distortion when you start upping the settings.

[SteelFK1]

I have no USB slot in the car which is why I bought Mr12Volt module... before that I had bought an Android CIC, but since these probably only run via AUX, that was sent back, since the sound was also terrible like this now..., have only a DVD drive and AUX in the car
I must then buy the days CD blanks and burn songs on a CD... in 2022 :-D

The sound is really, very very terrible, is like if I listen via AUX, just zero bass, really no bass at all, I'm usually not a fan of playing on equalizers.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by SteelFK1

I have no USB slot in the car which is why I bought Mr12Volt module... before that I had bought an Android CIC, but since these probably only run via AUX, that was sent back, since the sound was also terrible like this now..., have only a DVD drive and AUX in the car
I must then buy the days CD blanks and burn songs on a CD... in 2022 :-D

The sound is really, very very terrible, is like if I listen via AUX, just zero bass, really no bass at all, I'm usually not a fan of playing on equalizers.

As stated- test against a CD since you have no USB. You need a 1:1 comparison. Use the same song on both sides.

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by danbav

I’ve got the new unit but getting an occasional audio tick or click. Its there all the time even when playing a video on USB. Never got this with old unit.

Sound is great and this is a minor annoyance but would be good to fix it.

Anyone else noticed this? Any pointers on what to check?

Mine does this too. Just finished the install today and I'm on the March 2022 firmware. I notice it most often when I hit the right thumb arrows on my steering wheel to fast forward or reverse. It makes that snapping noise and then executes. Then randomly as I'm listening the snap sound is audible. I'll live with it for now as I don't notice it too much on the highway when I'm concentrating on driving.

Edit: I'm actually on bmwCIC_20220530 firmware

[JOJO82]

Originally Posted by fdrxseven

i did not have to code anything, because i have a CD changer in the trunk, therefore i used the loop connector to disable its function instead.

you need to disable cd changer if there is one, or activate CDC if there is none.

I have a cd changer and the odd thing is i didn't have to use that loop connector and everything works.

[georgebmwM3]

Is there any way at to update the firmware without installing it in the car?

[georgebmwM3]

Originally Posted by SteelFK1

I have no USB slot in the car which is why I bought Mr12Volt module... before that I had bought an Android CIC, but since these probably only run via AUX, that was sent back, since the sound was also terrible like this now..., have only a DVD drive and AUX in the car
I must then buy the days CD blanks and burn songs on a CD... in 2022 :-D

The sound is really, very very terrible, is like if I listen via AUX, just zero bass, really no bass at all, I'm usually not a fan of playing on equalizers.

Found this on another thread that may help explain some problems:

E9X M3 Note: The iDrive extension cable does not work for everyone. I recommend removing it entirely, the Carsara box should pick up the iDrive signals directly from the Quadlock (labelled L#->B# for Canbus High, or A#->B# for Canbus Low.). The white jumper terminator loop (D#) should be removed entirely. Note: You will not able to code the CIC headunit after this change is made. If you wish to try the iDrive connector, connect it to your iDrive controller, then connect it to either A# or B# and see if your iDrive menus respond. Multiple people have responded that they may have faulty harnesses, but it is not clear and is not needed.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by georgebmwM3

Found this on another thread that may help explain some problems:

E9X M3 Note: The iDrive extension cable does not work for everyone. I recommend removing it entirely, the Carsara box should pick up the iDrive signals directly from the Quadlock (labelled L#->B# for Canbus High, or A#->B# for Canbus Low.). The white jumper terminator loop (D#) should be removed entirely. Note: You will not able to code the CIC headunit after this change is made. If you wish to try the iDrive connector, connect it to your iDrive controller, then connect it to either A# or B# and see if your iDrive menus respond. Multiple people have responded that they may have faulty harnesses, but it is not clear and is not needed.

The CIC unit does not use a quadlock connection. It taps canbus and power from the idrive controller, MOST (audio signal) and LVDS (video signal) only. The CCC unit does appear to have a quadlock connection.

[SteelFK1]

here I am again... who has made mimimi because of continued poor sound quality despite the blue box from Mr12Volt.

Have found in some store still DVD blanks, bought, burned any songs and lo and behold... the e91 has ex factory such an incredibly poor sound quality despite "Hi-Fi sound system".
My e92 LCI also had only Hi-Fi but was worlds better.

Only because I can now watch movies via USB I keep the device.
My DVD player (from the factory) can probably not play burned DVDs.

[danbav]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

Mine does this too. Just finished the install today and I'm on the March 2022 firmware. I notice it most often when I hit the right thumb arrows on my steering wheel to fast forward or reverse. It makes that snapping noise and then executes. Then randomly as I'm listening the snap sound is audible. I'll live with it for now as I don't notice it too much on the highway when I'm concentrating on driving.

Edit: I'm actually on bmwCIC_20220530 firmware

Thanks for replying. I have had the earlier firmware and updated to this version a few weeks ago.

I have had the click since upgrading from the previous lights version. No click from that box.

This is still outstanding with support. They already sent me a replacement and made no difference. Tried 3 firmwares in total.

I am going to move the box and separate the cabling as best I can in case of any interference.

As you have said when driving easy to ignore but when in traffic it’s really annoying.

If I figure it out or get it resolved I will post it.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by SteelFK1

here I am again... who has made mimimi because of continued poor sound quality despite the blue box from Mr12Volt.

Have found in some store still DVD blanks, bought, burned any songs and lo and behold... the e91 has ex factory such an incredibly poor sound quality despite "Hi-Fi sound system".
My e92 LCI also had only Hi-Fi but was worlds better.

Only because I can now watch movies via USB I keep the device.
My DVD player (from the factory) can probably not play burned DVDs.

Perhaps the speakers in the system are blown or someone replaced them with lower quality units. You can always upgrade them.

As we assumed the issue is with your car, not the Mr12Volt unit.

[Jbpoore]

Originally Posted by Jbpoore

Status update. Mr12volt sent me an entire new kit. I uninstalled the complete original kit and put it back in the box. Next I installed the new P2000 and reconnected everything. I did not use any of the same wiring. I removed the I-drive controller before I connected to the P2000 harness, this time I hear an audible click (Hurray the sound I was waiting for). Now I am super excited and put everything back together 100%. I was sure it was going to work. Sadly, still no scroll. Maybe you are not suppose to be able to rotate the dial to choose selection? The up and down on the knob lets me go through the options on the menu sorta of. Secondly the week while the old system was in my son told me that it would randomly stop working like it was losing power than come right back on. I experienced that again 1st hand after I installed the new unit. I did not see where I was suppose to wrap any connection with electrical tape. Seems like it randomly loses power. This happened with the car in the garage sitting still and not running so no vibration. Does anyone have any other suggestions. I am almost ready to uninstall and send them both back and try a different brand.

My son went out of town for a couple weeks but he is back and is asking to me to work on this again. Mr12Volt suggested that I move Dip Switch #1 to on. So once again I removed dash trim , climate control, audio system with those pain in the but plugs, plastic harness and the removed the P2000. I unplugged everything and let set for about 15 minutes, then turned DIP switch #1 to on per Mr12Volt recommendation. Re-installed put everything back tother. Still do not have a scroll feature, I can pus the CIC idrive controller up and down to go through some of the menus. Not sure what to try. It also seems like the hole unit unit loses power intermittently as the screen goes blank and the sound stops then comes back on. Once again I just experienced this sitting in the car not running in my garage trying to test it. Any suggestions? Please help.

[Jbpoore]

Originally Posted by Jbpoore

My son went out of town for a couple weeks but he is back and is asking to me to work on this again. Mr12Volt suggested that I move Dip Switch #1 to on. So once again I removed dash trim , climate control, audio system with those pain in the but plugs, plastic harness and the removed the P2000. I unplugged everything and let set for about 15 minutes, then turned DIP switch #1 to on per Mr12Volt recommendation. Re-installed put everything back tother. Still do not have a scroll feature, I can pus the CIC idrive controller up and down to go through some of the menus. Not sure what to try. It also seems like the hole unit unit loses power intermittently as the screen goes blank and the sound stops then comes back on. Once again I just experienced this sitting in the car not running in my garage trying to test it. Any suggestions? Please help.

Sound is great when it is working. CarPlay works both connected and wirelessly

In reference to last post, sound is amazing when it works.

[drwankel]

Originally Posted by Jbpoore

My son went out of town for a couple weeks but he is back and is asking to me to work on this again. Mr12Volt suggested that I move Dip Switch #1 to on. So once again I removed dash trim , climate control, audio system with those pain in the but plugs, plastic harness and the removed the P2000. I unplugged everything and let set for about 15 minutes, then turned DIP switch #1 to on per Mr12Volt recommendation. Re-installed put everything back tother. Still do not have a scroll feature, I can pus the CIC idrive controller up and down to go through some of the menus. Not sure what to try. It also seems like the hole unit unit loses power intermittently as the screen goes blank and the sound stops then comes back on. Once again I just experienced this sitting in the car not running in my garage trying to test it. Any suggestions? Please help.

The whole thing screams of an intermittent/poor connection to the idrive control wheel, or connector/wire damage with the idrive control wheel adapter harness. This cable supplies power, and it taps canbus. Intermittent power and scroll wheel problems would all come from the same place.

Something isn't fully connected or is damaged. Inspect everything.

[danbav]

Originally Posted by Jbpoore

My son went out of town for a couple weeks but he is back and is asking to me to work on this again. Mr12Volt suggested that I move Dip Switch #1 to on. So once again I removed dash trim , climate control, audio system with those pain in the but plugs, plastic harness and the removed the P2000. I unplugged everything and let set for about 15 minutes, then turned DIP switch #1 to on per Mr12Volt recommendation. Re-installed put everything back tother. Still do not have a scroll feature, I can pus the CIC idrive controller up and down to go through some of the menus. Not sure what to try. It also seems like the hole unit unit loses power intermittently as the screen goes blank and the sound stops then comes back on. Once again I just experienced this sitting in the car not running in my garage trying to test it. Any suggestions? Please help.

I see that you can use the push forward back etc on the I drive knob. I can only scroll and push down to click?

Can anyone else use the forward back etc or only scroll and click?

[danbav]

Originally Posted by danbav

I see that you can use the push forward back etc on the I drive knob. I can only scroll and push down to click?

Can anyone else use the forward back etc or only scroll and click?

Forget that, just tested and forward and back works fine, I’m sure it didn’t in the past.

[georgebmwM3]

Has anyone found a way to update firmware without installing the unit in the car?

[spammysammich]

Originally Posted by georgebmwM3

Has anyone found a way to update firmware without installing the unit in the car?

I chose to install mine as others suggested under the passenger kick panel next to the ductwork. I just unplug the lvds cable and it pivots down and out of its hiding spot. From there the update is straight forward as outlined in a video.

[tennisman94]

I received a DSP unit as a replacement for my defective "lights" unit and just installed it. I put it under the passenger kick panel but I get lag and audio drops if I put my phone under the center arm rest - annoying but not a deal-breaker. Could be my phone, Pixel 6 is known for having bad radios. I also noticed a 2-3 second delay with music apps, starting a new song or hitting pause/play. Not sure if this is an issue with my phone, AA or the box, nothing else is affected by this delay. EDIT: disabled "media" in bluetooth settings and both issues went away, did see some video glitches with the backup camera and when returning to drive or park, unsure about the cause, will continue to monitor.

I used this microphone instead of the supplied one. I installed it in the mic blank spot (by the stock mic) and just taped it in, didn't try to mount it to the plate and I haven't heard any complaints from people on the other side of calls. The cord is too long though, would recommend going with something a few feet shorter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQNBKDK/