Drivershaft Replacement Recommendations

[simpleM3]

I need to replace my DS and need recommendations. NVH matters in the sense that I don't want to eliminate the guibo. MFactory seems to be a good option, but i don't track therefore don't care to have a CF shaft. I'm looking for a good quailty OEM replacement that isn't going to break the bank.

[roastbeef]

You can still enjoy the Mfactory driveshaft on the street if you enjoy a sporty drive.

[pbonsalb]

If all he wants is a rebuilt stock shaft, he can buy one for half the price of a CF shaft.

[Rajmun340]

Originally Posted by simpleM3

I need to replace my DS and need recommendations. NVH matters in the sense that I don't want to eliminate the guibo. MFactory seems to be a good option, but i don't track therefore don't care to have a CF shaft. I'm looking for a good quailty OEM replacement that isn't going to break the bank.

Could you give the symptoms of a failing/ worn driveshaft ? Is it increased play ?

[SAMM3Y]

Dorman do one brand new for $6-700. Supposed to be as good as OEM.

Pn/ 946-967 for dct
Pn/ 976-017 for 6mt

[nyc_dude]

Turner Motorsports makes one with a serviceable u-joint. Jacked up the price to over $1100. A shop in Az makes it for them. They usually only have one or two in stock. Got one last year. Joy!!

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...ission-032008/

Compare to a new OEM BMW unit.

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/ In Texas. They can rebuild one or Custom make one for you.

https://www.driveshaftpro.com/ In LA will make one for you.

Get all the other HW replaced. Plus add tranny mounts.


Cheers

[pbonsalb]

There is another member who has a rebuild source. Maybe Bigjae?

[TomHudson]

Originally Posted by Rajmun340

Could you give the symptoms of a failing/ worn driveshaft ? Is it increased play ?

Yes. You will hear a “clunk”as you move from a stop. On a lift, you can move the rear wheels and recreate the “clunk”.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

Dorman do one brand new for $6-700. Supposed to be as good as OEM.

Pn/ 946-967 for dct
Pn/ 976-017 for 6mt

Please stay away from anything made by this brand.

[SAMM3Y]

Originally Posted by doogee

Please stay away from anything made by this brand.

Bad experience?

[Rajmun340]

Originally Posted by TomHudson

Yes. You will hear a “clunk”as you move from a stop. On a lift, you can move the rear wheels and recreate the “clunk”.

Interesting. Can this cause a tendency for the car to buckle at low engine torque when trying to move from a stop (not driver induced) ?

[Richbot]

The MFactory driveshaft improves the car on the street quite a bit too. Maybe the most surprising and pleasant upside to the mod - it makes it seem like the car was broken with the stock shaft in it - so much less windup, much smoother at step-off and etc. If your car is a DCT I'd think it wouldn't make as much of a difference for you as the trans just sortof handles things for you, but if you have a manual especially it really improves the car in street driving. Obviously with either trans the performance imporvement is there too.

I've had mine on for about 3,000 street miles and it's a wonderful improvement. No NVH penalty, at all. If you want to improve the car "while you're in there" it's a no-downside mod other than the price of course. But I'm sure a stock rebuild will be a big improvement over a failed one too, at half the cost!

[doogee]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

Bad experience?

Easy to find how horrendous their products are with a few google searches.

But that is their market. Dorman is quite literally the cheapest of the cheap.

Nothing fits or lasts.

[Redd]

Originally Posted by Richbot

The MFactory driveshaft improves the car on the street quite a bit too. Maybe the most surprising and pleasant upside to the mod - it makes it seem like the car was broken with the stock shaft in it - so much less windup, much smoother at step-off and etc. If your car is a DCT I'd think it wouldn't make as much of a difference for you as the trans just sortof handles things for you, but if you have a manual especially it really improves the car in street driving. Obviously with either trans the performance imporvement is there too.

I've had mine on for about 3,000 street miles and it's a wonderful improvement. No NVH penalty, at all. If you want to improve the car "while you're in there" it's a no-downside mod other than the price of course. But I'm sure a stock rebuild will be a big improvement over a failed one too, at half the cost!

+1 for DCT

[simpleM3]

Thanks for all the comments. I have the money for an MFactory, so given Richbots's description and experience with it on the 6MT, I think I may go that route. I'm sure a reputable shop can build a OE replacement, but I don't want to risk or compromise performance. My goal isn't to just have the problem fixed, but I want the performance improved from stock as well.

[simpleM3]

Sounds great! i read somewhere that these are hard to get as they aren't built in mass quantities. Any recommendations?

Originally Posted by Richbot

The MFactory driveshaft improves the car on the street quite a bit too. Maybe the most surprising and pleasant upside to the mod - it makes it seem like the car was broken with the stock shaft in it - so much less windup, much smoother at step-off and etc. If your car is a DCT I'd think it wouldn't make as much of a difference for you as the trans just sortof handles things for you, but if you have a manual especially it really improves the car in street driving. Obviously with either trans the performance imporvement is there too.

I've had mine on for about 3,000 street miles and it's a wonderful improvement. No NVH penalty, at all. If you want to improve the car "while you're in there" it's a no-downside mod other than the price of course. But I'm sure a stock rebuild will be a big improvement over a failed one too, at half the cost!

[//steve\\]

Originally Posted by Richbot

The MFactory driveshaft improves the car on the street quite a bit too. Maybe the most surprising and pleasant upside to the mod - it makes it seem like the car was broken with the stock shaft in it - so much less windup, much smoother at step-off and etc. If your car is a DCT I'd think it wouldn't make as much of a difference for you as the trans just sortof handles things for you, but if you have a manual especially it really improves the car in street driving. Obviously with either trans the performance imporvement is there too.

I've had mine on for about 3,000 street miles and it's a wonderful improvement. No NVH penalty, at all. If you want to improve the car "while you're in there" it's a no-downside mod other than the price of course. But I'm sure a stock rebuild will be a big improvement over a failed one too, at half the cost!

My car came with one and it was on my list of seemingly excessive mods I thought I'd likely get rid of and pocket the coin.....now you have me thinking otherwise......hmm.

[TNTMYM3]

Originally Posted by Richbot

The MFactory driveshaft improves the car on the street quite a bit too. Maybe the most surprising and pleasant upside to the mod - it makes it seem like the car was broken with the stock shaft in it - so much less windup, much smoother at step-off and etc. If your car is a DCT I'd think it wouldn't make as much of a difference for you as the trans just sortof handles things for you, but if you have a manual especially it really improves the car in street driving. Obviously with either trans the performance imporvement is there too.

I've had mine on for about 3,000 street miles and it's a wonderful improvement. No NVH penalty, at all. If you want to improve the car "while you're in there" it's a no-downside mod other than the price of course. But I'm sure a stock rebuild will be a big improvement over a failed one too, at half the cost!

I am running the DCT CF driveshaft from MFactory. Intending to reduce/eliminate deflection, throughout the drivetrain, I selected this upgrade along with solid subframe bushings after consult from MRF engineering. OEM diff bushings and new motor mounts were also installed. Installed at 60k miles drivetrain went from indirect and clunky to smooth, quiet and direct. I have driven 25k miles since and am still very impressed. Acceleration performance at any angle of attack, is to praise. There is definitely a lot to learn about the benefits of this upgrade, deflection reduction, less friction due to lower rotational mass, less transfer of friction across drivetrain components and some theoretical benefits that may be to contest. However, it is worth spending an afternoon if not all weekend researching forums to learn as much as possible. It can be pricy so you will want all the confidence going in that it is the right upgrade for you.

[AC/DC]

I have the MFactory driveshaft as well and LOVE it! I wouldn't ever go back to the stocker. Literally the best place to lose weight. Best of luck!

[simpleM3]

As from the DS itself, what other DS relevant/associated components do you recommend changing? Giubo possibly?

Originally Posted by TNTMYM3

I am running the DCT CF driveshaft from MFactory. Intending to reduce/eliminate deflection, throughout the drivetrain, I selected this upgrade along with solid subframe bushings after consult from MRF engineering. OEM diff bushings and new motor mounts were also installed. Installed at 60k miles drivetrain went from indirect and clunky to smooth, quiet and direct. I have driven 25k miles since and am still very impressed. Acceleration performance at any angle of attack, is to praise. There is definitely a lot to learn about the benefits of this upgrade, deflection reduction, less friction due to lower rotational mass, less transfer of friction across drivetrain components and some theoretical benefits that may be to contest. However, it is worth spending an afternoon if not all weekend researching forums to learn as much as possible. It can be pricy so you will want all the confidence going in that it is the right upgrade for you.

[tdott]

Try this before you change it:
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1638255

I changed a driveshalf with a 10k unit (low mileage take off to install cf one).
On install, it made the clack noise, tightening that nut that separates the two pieces fixed the noise.

It can be done with the ds still installed, but with the shields and exhaust removed, you can fit a wrench into there to tighten it.

I would try that before replacing if you can.

[GORDON.M3]

MFactory hands down. Have an older generation one from them and isn't much different in terms of NVH from the factory DS tbh.