Need help guys ....

[K-M3]

So .. this just happened ... driving along , everything was fine . All of a sudden , engine malfunction warning came on and reduced power in limp mode. The tachometer redline now shows at 4K rpm but the most that the car will rev to is 2k rpm. Shut it off for about 10 mins, turned it back on and the car runs fine on full power for about 5-7 mins before going back into the same engine malfunction mode.

No rough idle, engine sounds smooth , no overheating, no knocking , no ticking, no emissions control warning . Just extremely slow to rev and does not rev past 2k rpm.

About 2 weeks ago, car received an OEM front windshield replacement at the BMW dealer and a new battery a week after that. It's been about 2 weeks since the new battery went in.

I know I'll have to pull codes but Any thoughts appreciated .

Edit - here are the codes that got pulled on the diagnostic report on the Carly app -

[JP10]

Was your battery coded in after install? Maybe that as not coding it will change the way your alternator functions. I had a similar problem after replacing a battery I thought was dying, turned out to be the alternator. You can check to see if your alternator is working or working intermittently through carly.

Could be throttle actuators as they are often associated with limp mode and can come at all sorts of times, usually a restart will get rid of the codes for a little while too.

Pull the codes go from there.

[K-M3]

Originally Posted by JP10

Was your battery coded in after install? Maybe that as not coding it will change the way your alternator functions. I had a similar problem after replacing a battery I thought was dying, turned out to be the alternator. You can check to see if your alternator is working or working intermittently through carly.

Could be throttle actuators as they are often associated with limp mode and can come at all sorts of times, usually a restart will get rid of the codes for a little while too.

Pull the codes go from there.

Battery was coded in ... was done at the BMW dealer ... and they do a pretty good job . Throttle actuators were my first thought. Wanted to get some ideas before taking the car in ... don't have Carly with me.

They checked the alternator n the charging system when they replaced the battery - that checked out fine

[JP10]

Originally Posted by K-M3

Battery was coded in ... was done at the BMW dealer ... and they do a pretty good job . Throttle actuators were my first thought. Wanted to get some ideas before taking the car in ... don't have Carly with me.

They checked the alternator n the charging system when they replaced the battery - that checked out fine

My alternator checked out fine too on initial start ups, but sometimes it would run for like 10 minutes then it would go off and I could see my battery losing voltage. Found out by monitoring carly for a few days.

But yeah could be TAs, it'll throw a code for it pretty hard to miss. Not sure if you are under warranty or not but if not there are companies that will refurbish your TAs with a lifetime warranty that is 1/2 the cost of new ones.

Good luck!

[K-M3]

Originally Posted by JP10

My alternator checked out fine too on initial start ups, but sometimes it would run for like 10 minutes then it would go off and I could see my battery losing voltage. Found out by monitoring carly for a few days.

But yeah could be TAs, it'll throw a code for it pretty hard to miss. Not sure if you are under warranty or not but if not there are companies that will refurbish your TAs with a lifetime warranty that is 1/2 the cost of new ones.

Good luck!

Nope ... not under warranty ... 2012 with 70k on it

[DukeofAlexandria]

Just carry a $20 scanner in the trunk. I'm highly bias against that shitty app Carly, but that's for another time...

Throttle actuators would be my first and probably only bet. You're well over the sweet spot of actuators going bad and it's probably about time for those.

Obviously won't be able to fully diagnose with ready OBD code, but plan on buying 2 new actuators - when one goes, the other is right behind it.

Also - as long as the battery was OEM or OEM-like replacement, usually you don't have to code. Lots of talk about this on the forums and re-coding usually only applies if the battery is NOT OEM replacement - same AH rating but different type or changing from a wet cell to an AGM, etc.

Even without the coding completed, this would cause the battery to discharge in a shorter time and USUALLY not produce anything like what you are stating.

Read the codes, see what you get, good luck!

-M

P.S. - My bet is on throttle actuators - make your bets boys and girls!

[K-M3]

Originally Posted by DukeofAlexandria

Just carry a $20 scanner in the trunk. I'm highly bias against that shitty app Carly, but that's for another time...

Throttle actuators would be my first and probably only bet. You're well over the sweet spot of actuators going bad and it's probably about time for those.

Obviously won't be able to fully diagnose with ready OBD code, but plan on buying 2 new actuators - when one goes, the other is right behind it.

Also - as long as the battery was OEM or OEM-like replacement, usually you don't have to code. Lots of talk about this on the forums and re-coding usually only applies if the battery is NOT OEM replacement - same AH rating but different type or changing from a wet cell to an AGM, etc.

Even without the coding completed, this would cause the battery to discharge in a shorter time and USUALLY not produce anything like what you are stating.

Read the codes, see what you get, good luck!

-M

P.S. - My bet is on throttle actuators - make your bets boys and girls!

Sounds good ... I'll post the codes when I've them read .. I've got Carly on order ... I know it's got its fans n critics ... but seeing as it's a familiar platform, I'll start here ...

I swear ... having this car .. it reminds me of zen and the art of motorcycling ...

[K-M3]

Codes from diagnostic report on Carly app

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by DukeofAlexandria

Just carry a $20 scanner in the trunk. I'm highly bias against that shitty app Carly, but that's for another time...

Throttle actuators would be my first and probably only bet. You're well over the sweet spot of actuators going bad and it's probably about time for those.

Obviously won't be able to fully diagnose with ready OBD code, but plan on buying 2 new actuators - when one goes, the other is right behind it.

Also - as long as the battery was OEM or OEM-like replacement, usually you don't have to code. Lots of talk about this on the forums and re-coding usually only applies if the battery is NOT OEM replacement - same AH rating but different type or changing from a wet cell to an AGM, etc.

Even without the coding completed, this would cause the battery to discharge in a shorter time and USUALLY not produce anything like what you are stating.

Read the codes, see what you get, good luck!

-M

P.S. - My bet is on throttle actuators - make your bets boys and girls!

The proper procedure for battery replacement is to program the replacement, regardless of whether it is OEM or not.

The replacement programming resets the histogram used in evaluating the charging system. Coding the battery is only needed in the event of an amp hour or type change, and is mutually exclusive from the replacement registration.

The OPs issue is likely fluid contamination on the sensor or wiring, or a faulty sensor. It could even be a birds nest hiding under there.... yes, this actually happened to one of our customers.

[DukeofAlexandria]

True - I was only speaking to the coding of the battery if and if was applying a new battery TYPE.

Registering still has to occur so as not to have the system over charge a fresh battery.

I should have clarified, thanks for the call out.

-M

[K-M3]

Originally Posted by BPMSport

The proper procedure for battery replacement is to program the replacement, regardless of whether it is OEM or not.

The replacement programming resets the histogram used in evaluating the charging system. Coding the battery is only needed in the event of an amp hour or type change, and is mutually exclusive from the replacement registration.

The OPs issue is likely fluid contamination on the sensor or wiring, or a faulty sensor. It could even be a birds nest hiding under there.... yes, this actually happened to one of our customers.

Seeing as this has happened around a week or two after having a brake fluid flush at the dealer, I will be informing them of the codes n the issue. Didn't think it would be related to a simple brake flush at first . Thought of the worst case issues first - TAs, icv , etc. I'm glad I got the Carly and did some research and asked around on this forum. I'll be calling them tomorrow n see what they say.

Special shout out to bpm sport n deansbimmer for their input. I know the issue is not fixed yet n it could turn out to be something totally different , but, it's reassuring to not go in completely blind. I'll keep this thread updated .

[deansbimmer]

Based off of the codes there is no indication that the throttle actuators have failed.

Luckily, you're close enough to my shop to stop in and let me have a look.

[madcrazy]

according to error code 27E4
http://wiki.rcollins.org/core/index....r:_27E4,_P1209
I bet the problem is the VACUUM LINE
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/34302283605/
No. 12 part
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=34_1627

[K-M3]

Quick update - turns out it was a faulty vaccum sensor under the master cylinder for the booster pump. Shout out to deansbimmer for all his help in trying to accommodate me and help me out despite mine and his busy work schedule . Also thx to many that provided their input, especially deansbimmer and bpm sport .

This forum rocks !!

[deansbimmer]

Glad we could help you out with the quick fix!

Edit: Have you shared pics of your car on the forum? We were impressed with how clean and well preserved it was for the miles. Way cool!

[K-M3]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

Glad we could help you out with the quick fix!

Edit: Have you shared pics of your car on the forum? We were impressed with how clean and well preserved it was for the miles. Way cool!

Thx man !! I believe I posted a few when I had first gotten it. It's been a while though. To be honest though , there are so many on here that have better dressed and maintained M3s than mine. I try to keep up with as much as I can