752 (individual audio) - amp upgrade

[Adam M]

Am just wondering if anyone has done this?

I was taken in and about to order the bimmertech alpha one light wave amp, for its pnp credentials but have realised it’s just separately available components combined into a convenient one box solution.

I thought it was doing something magical and while I appreciate it comes pre tuned, I have access to proper tuning facilities of an audio shop.

So, am looking at getting an audison most to toslink adapter and a toslink input Audison ap12.14 dsp amp (Forza).

This gives me enough channels to bi amp the subs and even a spare out if I want to run a separate sub.

I’m just wondering if anyone has done this.

Are there any downsides I haven’t considered? To my knowledge this should be fine with beeps and bongs, pdc tones and oem telephone integration.

Have I failed to consider something here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Adam M]

Had this done but forwent seem like there’s much interest.

Audison dmi, audison forza 12.14 amp and custom made loom adapter.

There is zero need to change any speakers. Suddenly I have bass that doesn’t require a separate sub. Sound is about the best of any system I have ever owned, including my standard Tesla model 3 which is saying something.

[Thumbie]

This is great info. I have been somewhat interested in the Bimmertech Lightwave amp upgrade, and tentatively the underseat woofers as well. ( I am under the impression all the other speakers in the individual system are very good)

This doesn't seem to save on cost over the bimmertech, is the Audison just a better amp?

[bipp]

interested in learning more - which parts did you use / more details on the custom loom please?

definitely very interesting to hear about better sound just from the amp without any speaker changes.

[Adam M]

Audison DMI

in my case Audison Forza 12.14 amp, but you could use an 8.9 and join some existing channels together.

The loom adapter was created from one available on ebay.

[CTMike]

Would be very interested in more details/pics!

[bipp]

Originally Posted by Adam M

Audison DSI

in my case Audison Forza 12.14 amp, but you could use an 8.9 and join some existing channels together.

The loom adapter was created from one available on ebay.

damn, that's one pricy amp. I'm far from being confident in DIYing a solution so this might have to be something I do at a shop or hold off on for now. definitely intrigued and planning for this down the line though.

[Adam M]

I’ve listened to this more and more and am utterly gobsmacked by just how good it is.

I’ve had after market car audio for 29 years and never before has a system I’ve owned been so good - and without touching a speaker or sound deadening anything.

I’m looking around for the external subwoofers wondering where the bass is coming from.

The power the system has is just unbelievable, no distortion at any volume, it’s bright but not oppressive and both punchy and bassy, with clarity and brightness. The centre speaker is prominent and adds so much to the staging/imaging.

I’d all but given up on car audio when the stock system of my daily sounded so good from the factory (Tesla model 3) but this is better than it in every way and it was already probably the best stock system I’d heard in a long time.

I did this after looking at the bimmertech and mentioning it to my preferred audio shop. He then showed me the audison as an alternative having never done it and I got carried away and said go on then. I had no idea this would be the outcome and must admit I don’t know how much is due to setup but I don’t care at this point.

Hands down best audio system I’ve ever listened to - can’t believe it’s my car!

Would post a simple picture but don’t know how to.

[got the wheel]

Hey can you share what exactly you upgraded id love to try it out

[Adam M]

I removed the OEM amp and replaced it with an audison DMI which receives the most input that went to the factory amp.

I think took the toslink output from that to connect optically to am audison 12.14 bit. You could fit am 8.9 bit if you are prepared to tie some channels together, eg. the centre channel could be fed from the left and right, and the rear deck speakers could be fed from the rear woofers. This will bring you from 9 to 6 channels. In my case I amped them all.

I bridged the spare channels in the audison to drive the underseat woofers with more power. These absolutely do not need to be upgraded in anyway, the stock speakers are much more than adequate to sound like a proper after market boxed sub in the boot.

I bought a loom adapter from ebay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255748549...edia=WHATS_APP

It's the match product - it was easier because it was pre labelled but there are cheaper options. This was cut this up and joined to the supplied loom with the 12.14 forza amp in order to create a PNP loom adapter.

After that, it was just configuring the audison amp to do the right stuff and then tuning.

The amp and DMI fit in the stock location under the pull out tray on the left hand side of the trunk. Nothing is invisible at all, and it runs cooler than stock as it's a class D amp.

All the stock tones, and phone etc work as expected, with no echo on the bluetooth connection when making calls.

I use a MR12V for my sound source playing just carplay - can't remember if there is a high res subscription - I think not.

Half the battle is the set up which I did not do.

I wish you guys were in the UK to hear it. I kind of fell into doing this, not being sure how good just an amp upgrade would be.

Well worth it.

Other upside is the only thing proprietary to the E92 is the loom adapter I made. I could take it all out, swap the stock amp back in, and use the DMI and amp in many other cars. Some newer models will use a different option instead of the DMI to convert to the digital input of them amp, but it's still usable in many BMWs Porsches, audis etc that use a most loop for their audio. Some newer cars use a different most lop that operates at a higher frequency.

Only negative I can think of is the oem equaliser built into the CIC no longer operates the equaliser as it was inside the amp not the outgoing signal from the head unit. I don't find this a problem as everything as bass and treble still work and are set flat. The MR12V has a more granular equaliser if I wanted to use it, but that too is set flat and the car tuned to my ears.

I can't imagine any reason to adjust it - it's just perfect.