Help! Strong vibration after a DCT and Differential fluid drain and fill

[Binary420]

So I performed (what I thought) would be a relatively simple drain and fill of my dct and differential.

I'll explain the process just so I can rule out having done something wrong.
Otherwise, I'm posting with the hope someone might have an idea what could have caused a pretty strong vibration immediately following this service.

The differential was pretty straightforward drain and fill...
1. Unbolted both the drain and fill bolts, draining out all fluid
2. Tightened and torqued the drain bolt
3. Using a fluid pump and with the car level, I refilled with the oem xj+fm booster
4. Once fluid began flowing out the fill hole, I allowed fluid to stop flowing, before returning the fill bolt. Done.

The dct transmission was a little more complex but still simple enough. (I thought)
The procedure started out the same as the diff,
1. Removed the fill and drain bolts and drained all fluid out
2. Reinstalled / torqued bottom drain bolt
3. Refilled through the fill hole using fluid pump till fluid flowed out,
4. Partially re-sceewed in the fill bolt
5. With engine cold, and car level, I started the engine and reved to 2k rpm for 1 minute,
While watching the bar pressure reach 5+ bar and temp was just over 30C after the 1 minute of revving
6. With engine still running, I unscrewed the full bolt once more, and pumped in about another 1.5 ish L of fluid. (OEM DCTF1 transmission fluid). Retorqued fill bolt. Done

Now immediately after these 2 procedures, the car is still driving and shifting perfectly fine, there's not really any driveability issues from what I can tell.
But the car is now vibrating pretty noticeably.
With that said my wife drove in it with me and she said she didn't notice a difference,
But without any doubt there absolutely is a moderate vibration that has developed immediately after these drain and fills.
Even while parked, you can feel the vibration at idle, but it's more pronouned after a high rev, and right after letting of the throttle after a high rev.
It's not just a vibration. But the issue is causing an audible noise which I'm having trouble describing with words.
It's not a grinding noise, but if you imagine gears rubbing what that might sound like...


Any idea what might cause this? Did I perform these drain and fills improperly? Maybe one of the 2 are low?

Please if you have any idea I'd love to get some insight
Thanks
P.s. I used oem direct from the dealership xj+fm booster and dctf1 fluids (not cheap)
And it's an e92 M3 DCT with 80k miles

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by Binary420

So I performed (what I thought) would be a relatively simple drain and fill of my dct and differential.

I'll explain the process just so I can rule out having done something wrong.
Otherwise, I'm posting with the hope someone might have an idea what could have caused a pretty strong vibration immediately following this service.

The differential was pretty straightforward drain and fill...
1. Unbolted both the drain and fill bolts, draining out all fluid
2. Tightened and torqued the drain bolt
3. Using a fluid pump and with the car level, I refilled with the oem xj+fm booster
4. Once fluid began flowing out the fill hole, I allowed fluid to stop flowing, before returning the fill bolt. Done.

The dct transmission was a little more complex but still simple enough. (I thought)
The procedure started out the same as the diff,
1. Removed the fill and drain bolts and drained all fluid out
2. Reinstalled / torqued bottom drain bolt
3. Refilled through the fill hole using fluid pump till fluid flowed out,
4. Partially re-sceewed in the fill bolt
5. With engine cold, and car level, I started the engine and reved to 2k rpm for 1 minute,
While watching the bar pressure reach 5+ bar and temp was just over 30C after the 1 minute of revving
6. With engine still running, I unscrewed the full bolt once more, and pumped in about another 1.5 ish L of fluid. (OEM DCTF1 transmission fluid). Retorqued fill bolt. Done

Now immediately after these 2 procedures, the car is still driving and shifting perfectly fine, there's not really any driveability issues from what I can tell.
But the car is now vibrating pretty noticeably.
With that said my wife drove in it with me and she said she didn't notice a difference,
But without any doubt there absolutely is a moderate vibration that has developed immediately after these drain and fills.
Even while parked, you can feel the vibration at idle, but it's more pronouned after a high rev, and right after letting of the throttle after a high rev.
It's not just a vibration. But the issue is causing an audible noise which I'm having trouble describing with words.
It's not a grinding noise, but if you imagine gears rubbing what that might sound like...


Any idea what might cause this? Did I perform these drain and fills improperly? Maybe one of the 2 are low?

Please if you have any idea I'd love to get some insight
Thanks
P.s. I used oem direct from the dealership xj+fm booster and dctf1 fluids (not cheap)
And it's an e92 M3 DCT with 80k miles

Just a thought: How did you jack up the car? In other words what jacking points did you use?

I am wondering IF the engine mounts or transmission mounts might've been disturbed or damaged. S65 OEM Engine mounts are known failure items. When these items fail vibrations can sometimes be noticed through the gas peddle, driver's side front floor pan, firewall and center console. The amount of vibration (and even noise) can depend upon the severity of mount failure and the resultant lack of NVH isolation.

[tbuck]

^This. Sounds like an engine mount issue to me as well. I doubt the fluid changes had any effect on an NVH situation.

[Ximian]

You might be able to tell if it's an engine mount caused vibration by revving while in neural. Go slow through the rev range.

If it just started after serving and the car was jacked up, I'd look at control arms/bushing for excessive play and the lug bolts if they're torqued properly.

[DrFerry]

Binary420 is he/she MIA? Any news?

[Binary420]

Sorry for the delayed response, update,

Yes, the car was jacked and put on jack stands

The front;
I jacked one side behind the wheel and then slipped another jack under the front center jack point black circular point near oil drain plugs

The rear;
I Jacked each side using the pads directly in front of the rear wheels, and placed a jack stand under where the control arm mounts to the suspension carrier.

I did jack the car up higher than I probably ever have done before, so its definitely possible that caused the issue, thanks for that suggestion

After my initial post, I re-checked the fluid levels on DCT and Diff, Both were at the proper fill
(cost me another ~$100 in fluid...)

I hadn't considered regarding the mounts or suspension related, the motor mounts have under 5k miles on them replaced when I had the rod bearings replaced. but I don't think the transmission mounts have ever been replaced,
Also, it could be something suspension related which I hadnt considered. I guess due to my own worry that I botched the drain + fill job.

After checking the fluid levels, I ended up dropping the car off to my local independent BMW specialist, (La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego) EDIT: do not ever take your car here! read on

Thanks for the responses.

I should be getting an update later today, I'll give you an update once I know more.

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by Binary420

Sorry for the delayed response, update,

Yes, the car was jacked and put on jack stands

The front;
I jacked one side behind the wheel and then slipped another jack under the front center jack point black circular point near oil drain plugs

The rear;
I Jacked each side using the pads directly in front of the rear wheels, and placed a jack stand under where the control arm mounts to the suspension carrier.

I did jack the car up higher than I probably ever have done before, so its definitely possible that caused the issue, thanks for that suggestion

After my initial post, I re-checked the fluid levels on DCT and Diff, Both were at the proper fill
(cost me another ~$100 in fluid...)

I hadn't considered regarding the mounts or suspension related, the motor mounts have under 5k miles on them replaced when I had the rod bearings replaced. but I don't think the transmission mounts have ever been replaced,
Also, it could be something suspension related which I hadnt considered. I guess due to my own worry that I botched the drain + fill job.

After checking the fluid levels, I ended up dropping the car off to my local independent BMW specialist, (La Jolla Independent BMW Service in San Diego)

Thanks for the responses.

I should be getting an update later today, I'll give you an update once I know more.

Any news?

[Binary420]

Originally Posted by DrFerry

Any news?

Sorry for the super delayed reply, I've been busy, blah blah...


So I mentioned I had dropped my car off at a mechanic to get checked out.

Couldn't have been more disappointed in a "bmw specialist" mechanic in my life!

Anyone living in SoCal will agree, La Jolla is a very ritzy city within San Diego County. There's a Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserti, all the usuals. All right down the street from the mechanic I brought my M3 to. I figured rich people certainly like to complain and find problems with everything, so just based on how long I knew that shop had been there, I made the mistake of making too many assumptions, and much too easily placed the health of my beloved M3 into the wrong hands.

The only due diligence I did on my end was reading through the companies google reviews, which were all phenomenal so without another thought, I dropped it off and they said they'd call me later that day with the verdict.


4:00 passed, 4:30, *uh oh* I thought, 5:00 PM came and went, and I didn't think much of it..

*ehh, I'd rather have it get diagnosed properly as opposed to quickly, I'm sure they'll call tomorrow*

Then next morning, I hadn't received any calls so I gave them a call at around 11:00 AM.
"The white M3, ya, uhm, ya that car is good to go, you can come pick it up anytime we'll be here till around 5:00PM"

I said "huh?" This was for a pre-purchase inspection, diagnosis of a newly developed vibration coming from the engine, what do you mean it's ready to be picked up? did you locate anything wrong with it?"

"no, the car is running good. nothing to report"

"That cant be, I explained when I dropped it off, I'm not sure if maybe there wasn't any notes left on my work order, but I drained and filled both the diff and transmission, and immediately afterward, I'm feeling a moderately strong vibration from the engine. (both while parked or while driving, more and more noticeable as the rpms increase) I posted onto a well known online forum asking for advice, and they mentioned a few thing to look at, including the following:

Could have been the way I jacked up the car
control arms or maybe some other suspension related issue
motor mounts
etc


he said "okay, we'll put it up on a lift and take a look at it from underneath...we will call you with an update this afternoon"

"okay, thank you... " gulp..

I thought huh, the way he just worded that would lead me to believe they hadn't already put it up on a lift...? For a $150 pre purchase inspection / newly developed engine vibration diagnosis?

So I was left feeling uneasy after that call, but figured I was just tripping and missing my M3. Whatever, they will find the problem and everything will be okay soon.

Now please bear in mind, I'm not a difficult person. Not at all. Im super easy going and don't usually have and issues with anyone, or any businesses. (I'm certainly not a Karen) and plain and simply I prefer to steer clear from drama, or shit talk, etc. So for me to be posting this, I have to feel very strongly about it.

I'll try to wrap this story up but felt it is worth sharing so others can avoid making the same decision I made. ​


3:00, 3:30, nope not again.. I called them, the same guy answers, and is acting like he is having trouble remembering which car I was calling about.

*huh they must be really busy or something* I thought...

Oh right! hey, ya so we checked it over a bit closer and discovered your motor mounts are not just close to needing replacement, but they are "in desperate need of replacement"

*Red Flag confirmed* I asked him what they would charge to replace just to bs, I had 0 intention of considering having them perform the job, but was being nice or what not making sure they didnt damage my car or something before I get there. (im serious)

So I bought this car mid 2020 with 77k miles, and within 2 weeks of purchase, I brought my car up to a very reputable shop to have my rod bearings replaced, and at the same time, he replaced my motor mounts..
(MRF Engineering.. really amazing service out of them. Very knowledgeable and experienced mechanic there- Malek)

1 more paused for further insight I now ask you to take into consideration.

When I dropped the car off, I was very clear to the guy, I was not interested in having any repair work performed there, I strictly wanted my vibration issue diagnosed, and I would be more than happy to pay for a proper pre-purchase type inspection, in addition to diagnosing the vibration.

I was told that was completely acceptable, and they do $150 for bumper to bumper pre-purchase inspection and they'd included the vibration diagnosis in that $150 as that would be part of the inspection..
we both were in perfect understanding and agreement.


Obviously a pre-purchase inspection cant be expected to catch every single thing wrong with your car, trust me I completely understand that..
But for $150, you'd think you would TRY to find SOMETHING, right?
ANYTHING! you should be capable of finding SOMETHING wrong or close to needing replacement on ANY car!
NO!
They literally didnt even call me, and then when I called them the following morning, they told me my car is finished and I can come pick it up any time, they found NOTHING at ALL wrong with it?

I had already been aware my thermostat was stuck open for the last 2+ months, the front suspension was lowered, but the struts were becoming softer and softer lately, and I knew they were pretty much ready to be replaced, as my tires started rubbing which they hadn't done before.
my right reverse light was out, the passenger side valve cover was CLEARLY leaking oil.
When I dropped my car off for the rod bearings, Malek spotted the valve cover leak before the hood even got half way open... (he offered to fix at the same time, but I chose to hold off, since it was my first time dealing with the place, I figured theres always next time, it'd fine for now. rod bearings would be setting me back enough already.



So my point is, that I dropped a car off with PLENTY of issues to find during a PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTION! COSTING $$150!!!

"oh yea your vehicle is ready, you can come pick it up anytime"

ARE YOU FOR REALL!!!

I get there to pick it up, the guy is trying to tell me my car needs motor mounts, I said, "huh... ya... thats weird, cause I just had my rod bearings done and they replaced the motor mounts less than 6 months ago."

he chuckled.
"ha, ya no those motor mounts weren't replaced 6 months ago.. "

"hmm, weird, well before I go paying for the same work twice, let me first call and if I'm mistaken on having had them done i'll bring it back here (since they are like an hr+ north of me)

"But So that's it though? you figure the vibration is being caused by the motor mounts?

"Yep, those motor mounts dont just need replacement soon, they are outright crushed and completely destroyed. in need of urgent replacement"

"Wow!"

I paid the guy his $150 and get in my car.

I pull out onto the road, and I shit u not.
I got less than 2 miles down the road, and for the very first time I have ever experienced this, my car says "ENGINE MALFUNCTION drive with caution"

I'm like, oh fk no, u gotta be kidding me.
I contemplated bringing the car back there, but I quickly realized the stupidity in considering that.....

Yes my car was running a bit strange, and yes, throttle actuators are well known failure points on this model.

80k miles, okay, sure, coincidence, timing, okay right. the car was running poorly, and the throttle actuators gave out shortly after.

No. No No No. WHAT!!!!???

That place just tried to give me back my car without finding ANY ISSUES and charge me $150!
I had to urge him to look at it again, at which point he told me he'd "get it up on a lift" and inspect it closer.
Then they finally tell me my motor mounts arent just bad but are completely crushed ...
and this part is just hearsay but I'm pretty suspicious the engine malfunction I saw on the drive home wasn't the first time it occurred. but more likely I feel they took my car out a 1 hell of a spirited "test drive" over night.

This might sound ridiculous, but I shit you not, I had ran a scan on my bluetooth obdII immediately prior to driving it to the mechanic to drop it off.

They are under 5 miles from my home. I made 0 stops on the way to dropping it off, and on the way home, I pulled off after the ENGINE MALFUNCTION, but got directly back on the road and continue driving straight home. (had 2 pull over 2 more times but I didnt veer from my 5 miles BLine path home...)

so thats a grand total of 10 miles. maybe 15 if im being extremely generous.

why then does that obdII scan show a mileage thats 45 miles less than the mileage after I got it home?

ya...

okay this is a long enough message.
If you care at all about your BMW, stay faaar away from La Jolla Independent BMW Service in La Jolla, CA.

My motor mounts are perfectly fine. I opened both throttle actuators, and replaced the gears inside, cleaned out all the black plastic shavings, and closed em em, put em in, boom, engine malfunction.

I was so pissed. and upset, and ashamed. etc.

I'm a little tight of funds currently, so i just ordered 1 re-built unit from Mpower motorsports (I highly recomend them for their quality and customer service.)

Unfortunately I think the reason the new gears didnt fix it was my own bad, but cant say for sure.

I think what happened was that 1 of the 2 actuators the 2 tab connections inside which match up with the 2 connections on the electronics board.

on 1 of the actuators, i discovered prior to shipping it that 1 if not both of the connections werent lined up, so i think what happened was i installed the new gears, and then closed it back up without the 2 internal connectors being properly plugged together.. stupid.
But either way, now I have a re-built one guaranteed for life, and another which I re-geared myself for a fraction the cost, so if that one ends up failing (which it likely will since i've heard the gears isn't the only issue, its also the mosfets overheating)
Worst case i eventually have to replace the second one, but otherwise. my car is driving as good as ever again.
I'm so thankful I made the decision to cut my losses and move on, as opposed to turning around and heading back to that scam mechanic.

I might not be a great story writer, but hopefully I've said enough to prevent keep you from EVER doing business OF ANY KIND with La Jolla Independent BMW Service


thank you guys for your suggestions,
stay safe out there.

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by Binary420

Sorry for the super delayed reply, I've been busy, blah blah... So I mentioned I had dropped my car off at a mechanic to get checked out. Couldn't have been more disappointed in a "bmw specialist" mechanic in my life! Anyone living in SoCal will agree, La Jolla is a very ritzy city within San Diego County. There's a Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserti, all the usuals. All right down the street from the mechanic I brought my M3 to. I figured rich people certainly like to complain and find problems with everything, so just based on how long I knew that shop had been there, I made the mistake of making too many assumptions, and much too easily placed the health of my beloved M3 into the wrong hands. The only due diligence I did on my end was reading through the companies google reviews, which were all phenomenal so without another thought, I dropped it off and they said they'd call me later that day with the verdict. 4:00 passed, 4:30, *uh oh* I thought, 5:00 PM came and went, and I didn't think much of it.. *ehh, I'd rather have it get diagnosed properly as opposed to quickly, I'm sure they'll call tomorrow*

Then next morning, I hadn't received any calls so I gave them a call at around 11:00 AM. "The white M3, ya, uhm, ya that car is good to go, you can come pick it up anytime we'll be here till around 5:00PM" I said "huh?" This was for a pre-purchase inspection, diagnosis of a newly developed vibration coming from the engine, what do you mean it's ready to be picked up? did you locate anything wrong with it?" "no, the car is running good. nothing to report" "That cant be, I explained when I dropped it off, I'm not sure if maybe there wasn't any notes left on my work order, but I drained and filled both the diff and transmission, and immediately afterward, I'm feeling a moderately strong vibration from the engine. (both while parked or while driving, more and more noticeable as the rpms increase) I posted onto a well known online forum asking for advice, and they mentioned a few thing to look at, including the following: Could have been the way I jacked up the car, control arms or maybe some other suspension related issue, motor mounts etc he said "okay, we'll put it up on a lift and take a look at it from underneath...we will call you with an update this afternoon" "okay, thank you... " gulp..

I thought huh, the way he just worded that would lead me to believe they hadn't already put it up on a lift...? For a $150 pre purchase inspection / newly developed engine vibration diagnosis? So I was left feeling uneasy after that call, but figured I was just tripping and missing my M3. Whatever, they will find the problem and everything will be okay soon. Now please bear in mind, I'm not a difficult person. Not at all. Im super easy going and don't usually have and issues with anyone, or any businesses. (I'm certainly not a Karen) and plain and simply I prefer to steer clear from drama, or shit talk, etc. So for me to be posting this, I have to feel very strongly about it. I'll try to wrap this story up but felt it is worth sharing so others can avoid making the same decision I made. ​

3:00, 3:30, nope not again.. I called them, the same guy answers, and is acting like he is having trouble remembering which car I was calling about. *huh they must be really busy or something* I thought... Oh right! hey, ya so we checked it over a bit closer and discovered your motor mounts are not just close to needing replacement, but they are "in desperate need of replacement" *Red Flag confirmed* I asked him what they would charge to replace just to bs, I had 0 intention of considering having them perform the job, but was being nice or what not making sure they didnt damage my car or something before I get there. (im serious). So I bought this car mid 2020 with 77k miles, and within 2 weeks of purchase, I brought my car up to a very reputable shop to have my rod bearings replaced, and at the same time, he replaced my motor mounts.. (MRF Engineering.. really amazing service out of them. Very knowledgeable and experienced mechanic there- Malek) 1 more paused for further insight I now ask you to take into consideration.

When I dropped the car off, I was very clear to the guy, I was not interested in having any repair work performed there, I strictly wanted my vibration issue diagnosed, and I would be more than happy to pay for a proper pre-purchase type inspection, in addition to diagnosing the vibration. I was told that was completely acceptable, and they do $150 for bumper to bumper pre-purchase inspection and they'd included the vibration diagnosis in that $150 as that would be part of the inspection..
we both were in perfect understanding and agreement. Obviously a pre-purchase inspection cant be expected to catch every single thing wrong with your car, trust me I completely understand that.. But for $150, you'd think you would TRY to find SOMETHING, right? ANYTHING! you should be capable of finding SOMETHING wrong or close to needing replacement on ANY car! NO! They literally didnt even call me, and then when I called them the following morning, they told me my car is finished and I can come pick it up any time, they found NOTHING at ALL wrong with it?

I had already been aware my thermostat was stuck open for the last 2+ months, the front suspension was lowered, but the struts were becoming softer and softer lately, and I knew they were pretty much ready to be replaced, as my tires started rubbing which they hadn't done before.
my right reverse light was out, the passenger side valve cover was CLEARLY leaking oil. When I dropped my car off for the rod bearings, Malek spotted the valve cover leak before the hood even got half way open... (he offered to fix at the same time, but I chose to hold off, since it was my first time dealing with the place, I figured theres always next time, it'd fine for now. rod bearings would be setting me back enough already.

So my point is, that I dropped a car off with PLENTY of issues to find during a PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTION! COSTING $$150!!! "oh yea your vehicle is ready, you can come pick it up anytime" ARE YOU FOR REALL!!! I get there to pick it up, the guy is trying to tell me my car needs motor mounts, I said, "huh... ya... thats weird, cause I just had my rod bearings done and they replaced the motor mounts less than 6 months ago." he chuckled. "ha, ya no those motor mounts weren't replaced 6 months ago.. "hmm, weird, well before I go paying for the same work twice, let me first call and if I'm mistaken on having had them done i'll bring it back here (since they are like an hr+ north of me) "But So that's it though? you figure the vibration is being caused by the motor mounts? "Yep, those motor mounts dont just need replacement soon, they are outright crushed and completely destroyed. in need of urgent replacement" "Wow!" I paid the guy his $150 and get in my car. I pull out onto the road, and I shit u not. I got less than 2 miles down the road, and for the very first time I have ever experienced this, my car says "ENGINE MALFUNCTION drive with caution"

I'm like, oh fk no, u gotta be kidding me. I contemplated bringing the car back there, but I quickly realized the stupidity in considering that.....Yes my car was running a bit strange, and yes, throttle actuators are well known failure points on this model. 80k miles, okay, sure, coincidence, timing, okay right. the car was running poorly, and the throttle actuators gave out shortly after. No. No No No. WHAT!!!!??? That place just tried to give me back my car without finding ANY ISSUES and charge me $150! I had to urge him to look at it again, at which point he told me he'd "get it up on a lift" and inspect it closer. Then they finally tell me my motor mounts arent just bad but are completely crushed ... and this part is just hearsay but I'm pretty suspicious the engine malfunction I saw on the drive home wasn't the first time it occurred. but more likely I feel they took my car out a 1 hell of a spirited "test drive" over night. This might sound ridiculous, but I shit you not, I had ran a scan on my bluetooth obdII immediately prior to driving it to the mechanic to drop it off.

They are under 5 miles from my home. I made 0 stops on the way to dropping it off, and on the way home, I pulled off after the ENGINE MALFUNCTION, but got directly back on the road and continue driving straight home. (had 2 pull over 2 more times but I didnt veer from my 5 miles BLine path home...) so thats a grand total of 10 miles. maybe 15 if im being extremely generous. why then does that obdII scan show a mileage thats 45 miles less than the mileage after I got it home? ya... okay this is a long enough message. If you care at all about your BMW, stay faaar away from La Jolla Independent BMW Service in La Jolla, CA. My motor mounts are perfectly fine. I opened both throttle actuators, and replaced the gears inside, cleaned out all the black plastic shavings, and closed em em, put em in, boom, engine malfunction. I was so pissed. and upset, and ashamed. etc.

I'm a little tight of funds currently, so i just ordered 1 re-built unit from Mpower motorsports (I highly recomend them for their quality and customer service.) Unfortunately I think the reason the new gears didnt fix it was my own bad, but cant say for sure. I think what happened was that 1 of the 2 actuators the 2 tab connections inside which match up with the 2 connections on the electronics board. on 1 of the actuators, i discovered prior to shipping it that 1 if not both of the connections werent lined up, so i think what happened was i installed the new gears, and then closed it back up without the 2 internal connectors being properly plugged together.. stupid. But either way, now I have a re-built one guaranteed for life, and another which I re-geared myself for a fraction the cost, so if that one ends up failing (which it likely will since i've heard the gears isn't the only issue, its also the mosfets overheating) Worst case i eventually have to replace the second one, but otherwise. my car is driving as good as ever again. I'm so thankful I made the decision to cut my losses and move on, as opposed to turning around and heading back to that scam mechanic.

I might not be a great story writer, but hopefully I've said enough to prevent keep you from EVER doing business OF ANY KIND with La Jolla Independent BMW Service thank you guys for your suggestions,
stay safe out there.

WOW! That is one helluva' saga that you chronicled. So the events went from DCT vibration after fluid fill, to new engine mounts, to still vibrating, to getting checked, to no answer from the crooks about what the cause is (was), to paying the crooks for an inspection, to limp mode, to new T.A. to installing new gears on one T.A. yourself, to installing a rebuilt T.A., to somewhere in there Malek seeing the valve cover gaskets need replacing, to still having the vibration? Quite the frustrating journey indeed. IF you still have the funds I recommend taking it to Malek at MRF Engineering for a diagnosis or at least a long discussion with him. More power to you for doing the T.A.s I am sorry you've had so many issues with car perhaps still stemming from the DCT fluid service?.. The only positive is you've discovered where not to get your car ever serviced again and alerted the forum to the fubar treatment you received. At least you're in SoCal because there's plenty of capable Indy shops out there. Amazing chronicle and saga. Let us know the DCT vibration root cause when you can. Perhaps it's not the DCT but a driveshaft guibo instead?

[Binary420]

I'll know soon enough for sure, but I have a strong feeling that performing a drain and fill of the DCT without replacing any of the preventative maintenance parts like the DCT oil pan, dct oil filter, etc.

I'm not an expert, but it seems reasonable to me that maybe by draining the fluid, and then re-filling, I didnt remove all the built up metal shavings etc sitting on the bottom of the pan, and so refilling just kinda stirred up all the crud that didnt drain out with the original oil.

or possibly the same scenario with the rear diff, I still don't know which was the cause,
but after driving it for a week or 2, as well as replacing the 1 throttle actuator and re-building the other, the vibration has gradually gotten better, (or maybe i just started getting use to it)

I ordered a complete transmission service kit from FCP Euro including the 6 bottles pentosin fluid, new DCT oil pan, filter, and orings, etc.
So I'm gonna re-drain and this time properly clean and re-fill the DCT,
and then hopefully I'll feel comfortable enough to drive the car up to have Malek take a good look at it just to put my mind at ease...

I felt bad, cause after that La Jolla Independent BMW [SCAM MECHANIC] told me the motor mounts were so "completely crushed and in need of urgent replacement" and then how he held strong with that diagnosis, even after I told him they had just recently been replaced,
I initially took the man for his word, and began to think MRF was actually the shop that screwed me, and then I began to wonder If I totally got hosed by them, and if my motor mounts hadn't even been replaced, how was I to ever suppose to believe my rod bearings had even been touched either?

So, sadly, I contacted MRF in quite an accusatory tone, which was super uncalled for, and I do apologize for having done that.
I should have known better than to ever think Malek would have ever pulled something like that. Unfortunately I didn't know better, and that La Jolla Independent BMW Service shop twisted my head all up, and I didn't know what to think,
but after hearing back from Malek, (I contacted him late night via email, and was working the following morning) he called me like 3+ times and texted and then also emailed me, showing true concern not just toward my unwarranted accusations but also toward the health and safety of my vehicle. Always staying 100% professional and non-confrontational in his demeanor.
I immediately knew I had made a bad assumption. I should have know from the beginning who was being dishonest.

So I'd just like to apologize

I knew almost instantly I fked up, later that evening I closely inspected the mounts myself and sure enough they look like brand new. not crushed in the slightest.

So ya, if anyone needs a trustworthy mechanic don't hesitate to bring your beloved BMW to Malek, at MRF Engineering in Lake Forest, CA.
He's the most professional, cleanly Mechanic I've ever met, and his prices are extremely reasonable.
(between irvine and mission viejo)

And stay far away from the thieves at La Jolla independent BMW service in La Jolla, CA
Even if you own a BMW that you really don't care about, unless you want your car to be destroyed, steer clear of La Jolla Independent BMW Service in La Jolla, CA

[DrFerry]

Originally Posted by Binary420

I'll know soon enough for sure, but I have a strong feeling that performing a drain and fill of the DCT without replacing any of the preventative maintenance parts like the DCT oil pan, dct oil filter, etc. I'm not an expert, but it seems reasonable to me that maybe by draining the fluid, and then re-filling, I didnt remove all the built up metal shavings etc sitting on the bottom of the pan, and so refilling just kinda stirred up all the crud that didnt drain out with the original oil.

or possibly the same scenario with the rear diff, I still don't know which was the cause, but after driving it for a week or 2, as well as replacing the 1 throttle actuator and re-building the other, the vibration has gradually gotten better, (or maybe i just started getting use to it). I ordered a complete transmission service kit from FCP Euro including the 6 bottles pentosin fluid, new DCT oil pan, filter, and orings, etc. So I'm gonna re-drain and this time properly clean and re-fill the DCT, and then hopefully I'll feel comfortable enough to drive the car up to have Malek take a good look at it just to put my mind at ease...

I felt bad, cause after that La Jolla Independent BMW [SCAM MECHANIC] told me the motor mounts were so "completely crushed and in need of urgent replacement" and then how he held strong with that diagnosis, even after I told him they had just recently been replaced, I initially took the man for his word, and began to think MRF was actually the shop that screwed me, and then I began to wonder If I totally got hosed by them, and if my motor mounts hadn't even been replaced, how was I to ever suppose to believe my rod bearings had even been touched either?

So, sadly, I contacted MRF in quite an accusatory tone, which was super uncalled for, and I do apologize for having done that. I should have known better than to ever think Malek would have ever pulled something like that. Unfortunately I didn't know better, and that La Jolla Independent BMW Service shop twisted my head all up, and I didn't know what to think, but after hearing back from Malek, (I contacted him late night via email, and was working the following morning) he called me like 3+ times and texted and then also emailed me, showing true concern not just toward my unwarranted accusations but also toward the health and safety of my vehicle. Always staying 100% professional and non-confrontational in his demeanor. I immediately knew I had made a bad assumption. I should have know from the beginning who was being dishonest.

So I'd just like to apologize.

I knew almost instantly I fked up, later that evening I closely inspected the mounts myself and sure enough they look like brand new. not crushed in the slightest. So ya, if anyone needs a trustworthy mechanic don't hesitate to bring your beloved BMW to Malek, at MRF Engineering in Lake Forest, CA. He's the most professional, cleanly Mechanic I've ever met, and his prices are extremely reasonable (between irvine and mission viejo). And stay far away from the thieves at La Jolla independent BMW service in La Jolla, CA. Even if you own a BMW that you really don't care about, unless you want your car to be destroyed, steer clear of La Jolla Independent BMW Service in La Jolla, CA

In life there are certain simple truths that tend to point the way and help with engineering diagnosis as well as problem solution in most situations. One of which is "Occam's Razor" which states roughly... "Among competing hypotheses, the one with the fewest assumptions should be selected." In simpler language; Occam's razor states that the simplest explanation is preferable to one that is much more complex. Simple theories are easier to verify. Simple solutions are easier to execute. In other words, avoid looking for complex solutions to a problem, and focus on what works given the circumstances. So with all that being said - and that truth in mind, I recommend going for a short drive with Malek, demonstrating the vibration and concentrating your efforts on the DCT. My money is on the DCT as the root cause, because the issue started just after you changed the fluid. The DCT has both pan and pump filters which - were not disturbed - and they serve to catch metal shavings and particles. The DCT clutches are what's called "wet clutches" and perhaps they have been affected in some way perhaps by fluid levels. There is a very special and specific process to follow when refilling the DCT (search the forums for the DIY). There are also some very knowledgeable people on this forum such as @Deansbimmer who you may want to contact via PM. Not to dispense with the DCT root cause theory in anyway, but have you verified the driveshaft guibo, driveshaft flange mounting bolts and driveshaft center bearing condition - especially if it was removed during the DCT service? These are all known vibration and clunk culprits but again my money's on some aspect of the DCT.

[GeorgeA]

I'd check out the driveshaft - that may cause vibrations on throttle.