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      11-10-2020, 12:14 AM   #1
anpk05
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Got myself an e90 M3

Hey all,

A short story: I joined this forum a longtime ago, when it used to call e90post? (I think that was the forum name). When I sold my e90 328i way back, I bounced around with several cars. Some decent financial decisions but mostly not so good. (My journey on my sig below)

I had an e60 M5 for very short time after the e90 328i, which was a huge mistake to get into. I was in college and did not have funds to even fill up the tank on that beast of a car, at times. That situation taught me lot of patience. Fast forward 6-7 years here I am, in an M car, ready to drain my pockets.

2011 e90 Jerez Black Metallic Competition DCT
58K on the clock
1 Owner
No idea if the Rod bearings or other failure prone items have been covered. I banked on this being a 1 owner car. Give me couple of days, I will post some shots.

I do have some questions though, I know some are beat to death on this forum. But, want to get a perspective in 2020.

1. Can't decide on whether to get an after market warranty or just do the rod bearings? I would like to do either of those immediately for peace of mind. Bearing the cost of the RB repair and getting a warranty does not make sense to me, yet.

2. How is the DCT holding up for higher mileage e9X ?

3. What are some good warranty providers, you guys are using?

Thanks
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      11-10-2020, 12:22 AM   #2
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Personally, I'd rotate out the RBs and call it a day. You won't find a reputable 3rd party warranty for a 9 year old M outside CarMax which is only available if you buy the vehicle though them.
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      11-10-2020, 01:49 AM   #3
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I'd agree with BlueSkies, easy enough to replace the rod shells. Even with a warranty I would prefer to keep the original (fairly low mileage) engine then risk having another who knows in what shape machine put in.

The DCTs are stout. Although mine is at the shop for fluid leakage for the second time, like most as it seems...

And - congrats to the M3 and welcome onboard!
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      11-10-2020, 06:17 AM   #4
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At 60k miles your DCT has a lot of life left. I'm approaching 170k miles on mine. Replace the rod bearings and you shouldn't have too many other worries. Throttle actuators will need to be replaced at some point, but that is a straightforward DIY. The cost of the parts have come down too with a rebuilt option that's available.
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      11-10-2020, 06:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InnerBlueSkies View Post
Personally, I'd rotate out the RBs and call it a day. You won't find a reputable 3rd party warranty for a 9 year old M outside CarMax which is only available if you buy the vehicle though them.
Not entirely true on the warranty. I was able to get a third party warranty option through both Fidelity and Concord Auto protect but after all was said and done I decided to cancel it and put the money towards general maintenance instead.

I still haven't done the bearings since I drive very little right now, but will probably do them next year if it becomes a true daily again. BE bearings are severely backordered.
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      11-10-2020, 08:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InnerBlueSkies View Post
Personally, I'd rotate out the RBs and call it a day. You won't find a reputable 3rd party warranty for a 9 year old M outside CarMax which is only available if you buy the vehicle though them.
I was looking to get one from carmax, but they usually have coupes. Something about the e90, just more appealing to me. I'm leaning towards doing just RB and tackle as things come up.

I might give a call to some companies, like Zurich to find out what they offer.
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      11-10-2020, 08:31 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helmsman View Post
I'd agree with BlueSkies, easy enough to replace the rod shells. Even with a warranty I would prefer to keep the original (fairly low mileage) engine then risk having another who knows in what shape machine put in.

The DCTs are stout. Although mine is at the shop for fluid leakage for the second time, like most as it seems...

And - congrats to the M3 and welcome onboard!
Thanks, just happy to be in an M. The car has some regular service and others I cannot track. So not sure how it was taken care of. Feels and sounds solid, but yet it's an s65
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      11-10-2020, 08:31 AM   #8
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Don't do the rod bearings during warranty, or they can claim that failures were induced by that work.

If you are paying someone to service the car, then get a warranty. If you service it yourself, don't.
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      11-10-2020, 08:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrust View Post
At 60k miles your DCT has a lot of life left. I'm approaching 170k miles on mine. Replace the rod bearings and you shouldn't have too many other worries. Throttle actuators will need to be replaced at some point, but that is a straightforward DIY. The cost of the parts have come down too with a rebuilt option that's available.
This sounds great, thanks. I've replaced the TA on my previous e60, the limp mode sucks!!
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      11-10-2020, 08:35 AM   #10
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Congrats. Post some pics
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      11-10-2020, 08:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyberdemon View Post
Not entirely true on the warranty. I was able to get a third party warranty option through both Fidelity and Concord Auto protect but after all was said and done I decided to cancel it and put the money towards general maintenance instead.

I still haven't done the bearings since I drive very little right now, but will probably do them next year if it becomes a true daily again. BE bearings are severely backordered.
I literally work 2 minutes away, so I take a longer route just to warm up properly. I'm going to get it done just so it's done with RBs.
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      11-10-2020, 08:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nrubenstein View Post
Don't do the rod bearings during warranty, or they can claim that failures were induced by that work.

If you are paying someone to service the car, then get a warranty. If you service it yourself, don't.
I have couple of shops in mind to do the RBs, definitely not doing it myself.
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      11-10-2020, 08:45 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by ando View Post
Congrats. Post some pics
Thank you. I will hopefully today. Trust me I'm itching to take some pics myself
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      11-10-2020, 09:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anpk05 View Post
I have couple of shops in mind to do the RBs, definitely not doing it myself.
It doesn't matter.
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      11-10-2020, 09:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anpk05 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by nrubenstein View Post
Don't do the rod bearings during warranty, or they can claim that failures were induced by that work.

If you are paying someone to service the car, then get a warranty. If you service it yourself, don't.
I have couple of shops in mind to do the RBs, definitely not doing it myself.
If you get a warranty, any engine related modifications included preemptive maintenance (like replacing rod bearings) will void the warranty claims going forward. Regardless of who performed the labor.
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      11-10-2020, 09:35 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post
If you get a warranty, any engine related modifications included preemptive maintenance (like replacing rod bearings) will void the warranty claims going forward. Regardless of who performed the labor.
This one is tricky, and is honestly the reason I ditched my warranty. There is some very specific inclusionary/exclusionary language in most of these contracts and some of them specifically call out exactly what components they will replace vs won't, and may void the warranty if they rule it due to "failure of lubrication".

Now you could wait til your engine grenades (if ever) and then try to have that fight, but for me $4k for the warranty I'd rather just put towards the bearings and hundreds of dollars in preventative maintenance that I can do myself rather than wait for it to fail.

I also would rather have my original engine working than a rebuilt engine which will devalue the car even further.

Certain things were in gray areas such as "throttle actuators" since they weren't implicitly covered.

But plenty of people on here have third party warranties have had it cover thousands of dollars of work, so to each their own. If you aren't mechanically inclined to try DIY for a lot of this stuff, then I would get a warranty and do the rod bearings regardless and keep the warranty as an insurance policy for anything else that can go wrong (plenty of sensors, bushings and other drivetrain parts that will go bad and can be expensive if you have to pay a BMW dealer to do it).
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      11-10-2020, 03:38 PM   #17
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I just scheduled a RB service with Lang Racing Development. Looking forward to dropping it off tomorrow.
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      11-10-2020, 09:08 PM   #18
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Here are some pics. Just quick shots.

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      11-10-2020, 10:13 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane View Post

But plenty of people on here have third party warranties have had it cover thousands of dollars of work, so to each their own. If you aren't mechanically inclined to try DIY for a lot of this stuff, then I would get a warranty and do the rod bearings regardless and keep the warranty as an insurance policy for anything else that can go wrong (plenty of sensors, bushings and other drivetrain parts that will go bad and can be expensive if you have to pay a BMW dealer to do it).
I can do most repairs myself that does not require a lift. So, I opted out of getting warranty.
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      11-10-2020, 11:48 PM   #20
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Here are some pics. Just quick shots.
Lovely car!
The E90 ZCP are pretty rare (1500 built in total, 1200 US), so you just joined a Special Club...
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      11-11-2020, 01:16 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anpk05 View Post
Here are some pics. Just quick shots.
Lovely car!
The E90 ZCP are pretty rare (1500 built in total, 1200 US), so you just joined a Special Club...
Thank you.
Really? I wasn't after a ZCP, but when I saw the original window sticker in the car I noticed it had Competition package. Honestly I can't tell the difference, how can I tell? The M button ?
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      11-11-2020, 03:13 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Thank you.
Really? I wasn't after a ZCP, but when I saw the original window sticker in the car I noticed it had Competition package. Honestly I can't tell the difference, how can I tell? The M button ?
Haha, same for me when I got mine mate!

The differences are:
- Springs and shocks (10mm lower)
- Dynamic adjustment of the shocks also in Sport mode (where non ZCP are fixed damping)
- Different DSC software in M mode (allowing more slip and I believe brake individual wheels rather then cut power).
- 359 rims

Its possible to modify incl code software which quite a few have done. Still doesn't make it one of the originals though...

Heres one of many threads talking a bit more about it: https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1205535

Enjoy!

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