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      02-04-2019, 08:18 PM   #23
osukf09
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Fwiw breather valve replacement fixed my bouncing idle.

And if you think it's an ICV issue instead, the ICV is covered by some state emissions warranties. Ie: ICV and TA's are covered up to around 70k miles in CA. I'd search your state's coverage
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      02-04-2019, 09:01 PM   #24
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Coding the mirrors like that will eventually wear out the plastic cam and bearing they pivot on in the motor assembly if exercised excessively. It caused my mirrors to sag and never line up with the trim/static piece. My car is an 08' with 80k on it purchased over 3 years ago, i assumed it was coded like that by a previous owner and that caused the excessive wear and tear. I took the drivers side apart when I first got it and attempted to fix it to no avail. Since then both have been replaced. I know it looks cool for them to fold everytime you lock the car but I don't think it's worth the cost of new mirrors.. just my $.02
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      02-04-2019, 10:50 PM   #25
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That’s why I like the mirror coding from Carly. One short press on the remote locks the car. The mirrors only folds in on a long press. So i can still choose when to fold the mirrors in and when not to.
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      02-05-2019, 12:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximusB View Post
That’s why I like the mirror coding from Carly. One short press on the remote locks the car. The mirrors only folds in on a long press. So i can still choose when to fold the mirrors in and when not to.
Agreed, love it.
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      02-06-2019, 09:33 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by SAMM3Y View Post
Coding the mirrors like that will eventually wear out the plastic cam and bearing they pivot on in the motor assembly if exercised excessively. ... I know it looks cool for them to fold everytime you lock the car but I don't think it's worth the cost of new mirrors.. just my $.02
I'll take the chance. I drive the car one day a week, and fold the mirrors maybe 4 times. The car is garaged so therefore not locked and the mirrors stay out while it sleeps.

Besides, I honestly think the driving skills of the general public are waning on a near daily basis. I'd rather wear out the plastic and replace it than have some knucklehead rip my mirror off with their Fred Sanford trailer or push a shopping cart into it.
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      02-06-2019, 11:57 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by M and Ms View Post
OP, when problems 1 and 2 occurred, did you happened to have a full tank of gas?
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Originally Posted by M and Ms View Post
OP, when problems 1 and 2 occurred, did you happened to have a full tank of gas?
Funny you asked that question coz OP's 1 & 2 happened to me couple times right as I left the gas station after filling up a full tank of gas. I drive a 2011 e90 DCT brought her home 4 months ago with 82k miles on it. It was kinda freaky revving on its own, cars around me prolly thought I was showing off.
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      05-07-2019, 04:19 PM   #29
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I drove the car today after nearly three weeks of inactivity. I was greeted by a red triangle with an exclamation point in the cluster, which eventually went away.

I looked in the Check Control, it told me the car had "Service Due", but no explanation. Clicking through the triangle section at the bottom of the left menu, the next screen told me I should have had "Maintenance" back in 4/19, and that it was unable to connect with the dealer to request service. Still no info to tell me what I should have the dealer do for me.

How do I get the thing to tell me what the maintenance is? Or at least, how do I get it to tell the dealer? Is there a way to get this thing to talk to BMW via WiFi or something?

Also, the car died out twice today, and both times I noticed it followed the same pattern: The idle bounced one or two times, then the DCT went into N at the same time the car shut off.

I yelled at the car several times but that had no effect.

Is the consensus still breather valve?
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      05-07-2019, 04:58 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Freiheit View Post
I drove the car today after nearly three weeks of inactivity. I was greeted by a red triangle with an exclamation point in the cluster, which eventually went away.

I looked in the Check Control, it told me the car had "Service Due", but no explanation. Clicking through the triangle section at the bottom of the left menu, the next screen told me I should have had "Maintenance" back in 4/19, and that it was unable to connect with the dealer to request service. Still no info to tell me what I should have the dealer do for me.

How do I get the thing to tell me what the maintenance is? Or at least, how do I get it to tell the dealer? Is there a way to get this thing to talk to BMW via WiFi or something?

Also, the car died out twice today, and both times I noticed it followed the same pattern: The idle bounced one or two times, then the DCT went into N at the same time the car shut off.

I yelled at the car several times but that had no effect.

Is the consensus still breather valve?
Probably battery issues if the car wasn't connected to a battery tender/trickle charger.
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      05-07-2019, 05:11 PM   #31
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My car used to stall occasionally with erratic idle and throw an IACV code not sure if it had anything to do with the breather but after a little spirited driving it would solve it... go rip it around your favorite country road for 20 miles or so, clear its throat..
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      05-07-2019, 05:16 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by ItsGary View Post
Probably battery issues if the car wasn't connected to a battery tender/trickle charger.
I was afraid of that. Is there a less bloodthirsty solution than getting a stock replacement battery from the dealer?
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      05-07-2019, 05:17 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by SAMM3Y View Post
My car used to stall occasionally with erratic idle and throw an IACV code not sure if it had anything to do with the breather but after a little spirited driving it would solve it... go rip it around your favorite country road for 20 miles or so, clear its throat..

unfortunately, there are no empty roads anymore... what this town needs is an enema
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      05-07-2019, 05:17 PM   #34
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I was afraid of that. Is there a less bloodthirsty solution than getting a stock replacement battery from the dealer?
You don't have to get a BMW branded battery lol. Any 90Ah AGM Group 49 battery works.
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      05-07-2019, 05:18 PM   #35
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You don't have to get a BMW branded battery lol. Any 90Ah AGM Group 49 battery works.
Then what is all the posts I read about "registering" the battery via Carly or whatever?
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      05-07-2019, 05:19 PM   #36
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Then what is all the posts I read about "registering" the battery via Carly or whatever?
You can register the battery still. You register it so your alternator knows not to charge the new battery at the rate it was charging the old battery supposedly. I can't confirm if its true or not.
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      05-07-2019, 05:20 PM   #37
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You can register the battery still. You register it so your alternator knows not to charge the new battery at the rate it was charging the old battery supposedly. I can't confirm if its true or not.
This bears investigating
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      05-07-2019, 06:28 PM   #38
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Got this for $163 after $50 coupon and core exchange. Paid local bmw indy shop $90 to install and register. If u want to do it yourself and have the necessary tools to register, save the $90.
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      05-07-2019, 08:16 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by firstbimmer View Post
Got this for $163 after $50 coupon and core exchange. Paid local bmw indy shop $90 to install and register. If u want to do it yourself and have the necessary tools to register, save the $90.

Thats good info right there. Thanks.
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      05-07-2019, 09:57 PM   #40
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it sounds like you don't drive it that much... how old is the gas when it does it's stalling spells? are you using top tier 93 octane? I have had the erratic idle, which bounces slightly and has a shudder that I can feel in the seat. It's been driving me nuts even though it's on and off from week to week, but last week was the first stall at a stoplight. Most of the time, it was after the car was warm and I came to an abrupt stop at a light. Last weekend, another owner told me to try a bottle of Chevron with Techron. I hate using fuel additives, but I firgured I would try it. I used half a bottle (full bottle is for 12 gallons of fuel) and 7 gallons of fuel... I finished that treatment today and ran another top tier 93, and it might be completely chance, but so far, my idle is as steady as ever. No clue if this has worked or not, but so far, I am cautiously optimistic I had some mucked up injectors or something from a previous owners bad gas or something. If this ends up failing, I will go FBV, and if that doesn't work, then ICV.
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      05-18-2019, 10:06 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wfdeacon88 View Post
it sounds like you don't drive it that much... how old is the gas when it does it's stalling spells? are you using top tier 93 octane?

I drive it about once a week, if that, for a couple of hours. The gas usually lasts about 4 or 5 drives, because I usually let it rip quite a bit. I've never used 2nd tier gas, I use the best 93 octane available, whatever that happens to be. Its usually Shell, which I think is what PCA recommends.

I'm not a fan of putting anything in the gas tank that isn't gas. The additive packages that pre-exist in gas are pretty decent, and the proportions are already correct, so adding other stuff doesn't appeal to me. I may consider Techron, but there's really nothing its going to do that Seafoam doesn't do, if I decide to go that route.
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      05-18-2019, 11:45 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Freiheit View Post
I drive it about once a week, if that, for a couple of hours. The gas usually lasts about 4 or 5 drives, because I usually let it rip quite a bit. I've never used 2nd tier gas, I use the best 93 octane available, whatever that happens to be. Its usually Shell, which I think is what PCA recommends.

I'm not a fan of putting anything in the gas tank that isn't gas. The additive packages that pre-exist in gas are pretty decent, and the proportions are already correct, so adding other stuff doesn't appeal to me. I may consider Techron, but there's really nothing its going to do that Seafoam doesn't do, if I decide to go that route.
I only drive my car on weekends, most of the times just once like you. I never hook it to a charger except for over winter when I don’t drive it for couple of months. So far my battery is fine, original 2013 battery.

However I do keep the tank topped up as much as possible. I try not to let it sit below half a tank. Always full tank for winter storage. Also when you fill up don’t “top it off”. Just leave once the pump stops. Pumping it till it stops again will cause gas to leak into the breather tube, which goes into the charcoal canister that is designed for only gas vapours.
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      05-19-2019, 07:57 AM   #43
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You should have put 'my "new" modified M3' as the title... amateur 'tuning' of the car causes problems everywhere eventually.
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      05-19-2019, 03:19 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by LuckiSevens View Post
You should have put 'my "new" modified M3' as the title... amateur 'tuning' of the car causes problems everywhere eventually.
I personally wouldn't call Alex an amateur, but if you want to, I'd say you'd need to back that up with facts.

The bouncing rev and stall has been noted by more than a few others here, and those who've fixed it have done so with replacement of a breather valve, a few have used the idle control valve. No one has yet to show its a result of a tune.
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