How often do you replace your studs and lug nuts?

[scotty_miller]

Removing a stud at the track wouldn't be all that bad... just time consuming. Might miss a session. If it sheared off at the hub, remove the rotor to expose more of the hub/stud, drill out part of the stud and pound a male torx bit in(t30-t35), heat the hub with a propane torch and back it out with a ratchet. All you would need to add to the tool bag is a drill, bit set, sacrificial torx bit, hammer, and oh a torch

Just a word of advice so no ones track weekend/day gets ruined

[elim11]

Originally Posted by ayao

How long had the sheared stud been installed and how many track days were on it? Brand?

Not quite sure the brand... got it from Joe at Trinity Autosport. Over a year and ~12 days.

I replaced it with Apex studs. They seem to look identical.

[ayao]

Originally Posted by Kong Sheng Han

I bought extra studs and lugs, but I never thought about what it'd take to remove a broken stud...

Maybe I need to start bringing a torch to the track.. or just stick with OE lug bolts lol.

Edit: Ouch.

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1&postcount=36

They recommend MSI studs (spendy) available at Turner as the gold standard in that thread. I just bought a replacement set of Apex studs, though. Looks like the referenced failure point was at the transition between corroded and not-corroded stud?

[Kong Sheng Han]

Installing studs with Loctite 271 (red) as we speak. Rip.

Originally Posted by scotty_miller

Removing a stud at the track wouldn't be all that bad... just time consuming. Might miss a session. If it sheared off at the hub, remove the rotor to expose more of the hub/stud, drill out part of the stud and pound a male torx bit in(t30-t35), heat the hub with a propane torch and back it out with a ratchet. All you would need to add to the tool bag is a drill, bit set, sacrificial torx bit, hammer, and oh a torch

Just a word of advice so no ones track weekend/day gets ruined

Thanks. This is what I'll do.

[scotty_miller]

Originally Posted by Kong Sheng Han

Installing studs with Loctite 271 (red) as we speak. Rip.

Thanks. This is what I'll do.

Let me know how it works out. PM me if you need any help

[ayao]

Originally Posted by Kong Sheng Han

I bought extra studs and lugs, but I never thought about what it'd take to remove a broken stud...

Maybe I need to start bringing a torch to the track.. or just stick with OE lug bolts lol.

Edit: Ouch.

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...1&postcount=36

Peculiar -- that entire thread got nuked.

[roastbeef]

What was up with that thread?

[ayao]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

What was up with that thread?

Bunch of people talking wheel studs on the F80 and eventually settled on MSI as the bulletproof brand (sold through Turner) - the specific linked post was from a guy who had run Apex studs and had a premature failure but that post plus the whole thread is gone now.

[1MOREMOD]

Yep i have apex fail and use turner race now no issues

[roastbeef]

I have had my turners for about two years now with no issues. Got a set of apex studs for a proactive swap. They were cheap enough that if I get a year out of them I'll be happy.

[Kong Sheng Han]

Originally Posted by scotty_miller

Let me know how it works out. PM me if you need any help

Everything is fine...for now.

Originally Posted by ayao

Peculiar -- that entire thread got nuked.

Lol.

[bigjae1976]

I've never had an issue with studs...Turner, BW, Apex and Vorshlag. It's pretty simple...grade 8.8 or 10.9 metric bolt and nut???

You can probably but them at Fastenal...just won't have the collar to bottom out on the hub.

[dbyrd]

Reviving this thread as I had two Apex studs shear off in the hub this weekend. I was overdue to change them out with over 30 track days on these studs, and I was running Pirelli DHs (super grippy so more forces on the car). Unfortunately, the wobble destroyed the front passenger tire as well.

This is the second time that I've had Apex studs break. The last time, I had to replace the hub/bearing due to my shitty drilling skills.

Luckily the track-side shop, Dogbone, was able to drill them out after snapping the extractor in the hub. They also sold me two wider Pirelli DH scrubs so I was able to get back on track on Sunday.

Dogbone recommended using MSI studs. They run them in their Pirelli Challenge car and say they are much stronger than the lower-end Chromoly studs. The feedback in this thread recommend MSI as well. I found them at Turner for $265.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

Reviving this thread as I had two Apex studs shear off in the hub this weekend. I was overdue to change them out with over 30 track days on these studs, and I was running Pirelli DHs (super grippy so more forces on the car). Unfortunately, the wobble destroyed the front passenger tire as well.

This is the second time that I've had Apex studs break. The last time, I had to replace the hub/bearing due to my shitty drilling skills.

Luckily the track-side shop, Dogbone, was able to drill them out after snapping the extractor in the hub. They also sold me two wider Pirelli DH scrubs so I was able to get back on track on Sunday.

Dogbone recommended using MSI studs. They run them in their Pirelli Challenge car and say they are much stronger than the lower-end Chromoly studs. The feedback in this thread recommend MSI as well. I found them at Turner for $265.

Lol...I was waiting for this!!! :

$265 for some better lug nuts and studs doesn't sound as bad.

BMWs are really finicky in the wheel installation procedure. You HAVE to keep the hubs clean. What most people miss is keeping the mating surface in the wheel clean. The you have to clean the hub of the grease and anti-seize periodically.

I now torque to 80 ft/lbs on all of the different brands (which are the same stud) that I have on 2 cars.

There was a guy back in Mar with Driver's Edge that lost a wheel...E92 in silver stone. Maybe it's the exterior color?

[Estoril Blue]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

There was a guy back in Mar with Driver's Edge that lost a wheel...E92 in silver stone. Maybe it's the exterior color?

Someone sheared studs last year at Lime Rock. Went to the wall.

[Obioban]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

Reviving this thread as I had two Apex studs shear off in the hub this weekend. I was overdue to change them out with over 30 track days on these studs, and I was running Pirelli DHs (super grippy so more forces on the car). Unfortunately, the wobble destroyed the front passenger tire as well.

This is the second time that I've had Apex studs break. The last time, I had to replace the hub/bearing due to my shitty drilling skills.

Luckily the track-side shop, Dogbone, was able to drill them out after snapping the extractor in the hub. They also sold me two wider Pirelli DH scrubs so I was able to get back on track on Sunday.

Dogbone recommended using MSI studs. They run them in their Pirelli Challenge car and say they are much stronger than the lower-end Chromoly studs. The feedback in this thread recommend MSI as well. I found them at Turner for $265.

I'm surprised you kept running them after the first failure. That would have been enough for me to nope out of there ASAP!

[dbyrd]

Originally Posted by Obioban

I'm surprised you kept running them after the first failure. That would have been enough for me to nope out of there ASAP!

I had to go for the HPDE trophy!

[dparm]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

I had to go for the HPDE trophy!

Nice line, yours is almost exactly the same as mine...which some guys at TNIA thought was "non-standard".

There's an event there tonight but people have said that track is insanely slippery when it's wet. How was that one spot with the standing water?

[dbyrd]

Originally Posted by dparm

Nice line, yours is almost exactly the same as mine...which some guys at TNIA thought was "non-standard".

There's an event there tonight but people have said that track is insanely slippery when it's wet. How was that one spot with the standing water?

When you talk about the non-standard line, I assume you mean the entry into Rattlesnake, correct? I was catching most folks underbraking there and taking the tighter line. It's a double apex so if you aim at the initial corner then track out a car width or so before turn-in you don't lose time in the first two turns into Rattlesnake. Trail braking at the limit all the way in. Many cars brake too early, coast then use more throttle before the first turn.

The 2 places where water is running across the track weren't too bad although several cars went off after the wet-crossing post Ricochet. That wet spot perfectly corresponded to my gear shift from 3rd to 4th so I basically lifted for it. The water before Rattlesnake wasn't too bad - I don't recall lifting there.

If the track is actually wet, the dry-line is like ice. I'm not a fan of the rim-shot at most tracks, but the absolute edge of the track has decent grip on several corners. Get your turning done before or after crossing the dry line. I have a video or two on YouTube of going clockwise there in the wet.

Go for it!
-Daniel

[dparm]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

When you talk about the non-standard line, I assume you mean the entry into Rattlesnake, correct? I was catching most folks underbraking there and taking the tighter line. It's a double apex so if you aim at the initial corner then track out a car width or so before turn-in you don't lose time in the first two turns into Rattlesnake. Trail braking at the limit all the way in. Many cars brake too early, coast then use more throttle before the first turn.

Yeah, I have only driven it once for a half-day event (SCCA TNIA) and barely studied the layout before arriving, but it was very apparent how that corner would trip people up. Like you, I was closing the gap very fast on cars right there.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by dbyrd

The 2 places where water is running across the track weren't too bad although several cars went off after the wet-crossing post Ricochet. That wet spot perfectly corresponded to my gear shift from 3rd to 4th so I basically lifted for it. The water before Rattlesnake wasn't too bad - I don't recall lifting there. .

Lol I fell victim to the river Sunday. Went off in the first session after ricochet haha, so slick there! Dried up quick though by the end of the day was gone.

[Kelse92]

Back to the topic of the thread though, any of you that are replacing studs or bolts frequently also doing hubs?? I think I’m just going to do everything at once in the next week or two. Pretty certain there’s a wheel bearing giving out anyway. You can kind of hear it clicking in this video.