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      11-19-2021, 11:24 PM   #45
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So to revive this - I am going to SC soon. So, revisiting the wheel hop.

I do not love NVH but I absolutely detest wheel hop and breaking sh!t. So, would it be best to replace the subframe bushings with with solid or powerflex? And as for the diff bushings, what would be the best option if NVH is not something I really love?

After reading a lot of threads, I am leaning to solid subframe and PowerFlex purple diff bushings. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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      11-19-2021, 11:44 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scharbag View Post
So to revive this - I am going to SC soon. So, revisiting the wheel hop.

I do not love NVH but I absolutely detest wheel hop and breaking sh!t. So, would it be best to replace the subframe bushings with with solid or powerflex? And as for the diff bushings, what would be the best option if NVH is not something I really love?

After reading a lot of threads, I am leaning to solid subframe and PowerFlex purple diff bushings. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
It will still wheel hop with solid subframe bushings and powerflex purples. Also, the powerflex purples seem like an inferior design to the ecs tuning poly diff mounts. The metal sleeves on the powerflex bushings are much smaller diameter, which means less surface area of polyurethane supporting the sleeve. Mine actually tore through the poly and snapped a bolt on track. Now I have solid diff bushings too.

Edit: should say I still got wheel hop. Tires (and tire temp) and suspension also contribute.
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Last edited by Bartledoo; 11-20-2021 at 01:17 PM..
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      11-20-2021, 12:28 AM   #47
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Subframe definitely go solid. There's no additional NVH.

Diff maybe try Powerflex Black or the ECS set - both are 95A. If that fails then go solid.

You want to also consider going full spherical on the rear. Any rubber bush in the suspension acts like an undamped spring and may be a contributor to wheel hop.
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      11-20-2021, 10:54 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scharbag View Post
So to revive this - I am going to SC soon. So, revisiting the wheel hop.

I do not love NVH but I absolutely detest wheel hop and breaking sh!t. So, would it be best to replace the subframe bushings with with solid or powerflex? And as for the diff bushings, what would be the best option if NVH is not something I really love?

After reading a lot of threads, I am leaning to solid subframe and PowerFlex purple diff bushings. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
That's the combo I have and I get zero wheel hop. Slight diff whine.
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      11-20-2021, 04:02 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by asw19 View Post
I'm getting wheel hop everytime I spin the tires in the rain. Whats the cause and how do I eliminate it?

Thanks
Upgrade your rear subframe bushing ...It truly eliminates wheel hops and puts power to the grown,...when my rear bushing was stock...just cruising at 70ish mph and hit a bump on freeway....my M would always have wheel hop and wiggle a little....now that I have upgraded to the purple stuff...lol...no wheel hops..just like the others mentioned
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      11-20-2021, 04:02 PM   #50
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I broke a lot of stuff from wheel hop. I went to solid diff mounts and I still had hop. I went with a solid mounted super 8.8 with a tr2 lsd and g force axles and now have zero hop in any situation wet/dry . On stock 2008 almost 100k subframe bushings. I was able to manji drift it wile it was wet something I could never do before due to hop. I got so confident that I abused that tr2 that is not Intended for digs/drag racing and I blew it up.

I believe the g force axles are the main contributing factor they have anti wheel hop technology aswell as the solid mounted diff.

Seemes legit garage sells axle upgrade for the m3 made by g force .

https://www.seemslegitgarage.com/pro...2-axle-upgrade

Last edited by Mog-10; 11-20-2021 at 06:03 PM..
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      11-24-2021, 03:57 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by immiketoo View Post
This is an excellent question! I think it's a combination of the rapid loss and gaining of traction combined with loading and unloading of suspension components that creates an oscilating wave pattern that results in wheel hop. I am not an engineer, and if anyone knows better please jump in!

As for how to eliminate it, smoother throttle application will definitely help.
But you definitely slept in a Holiday Inn last night 😂
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      11-26-2021, 07:06 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scharbag View Post
So to revive this - I am going to SC soon. So, revisiting the wheel hop.

I do not love NVH but I absolutely detest wheel hop and breaking sh!t. So, would it be best to replace the subframe bushings with with solid or powerflex? And as for the diff bushings, what would be the best option if NVH is not something I really love?

After reading a lot of threads, I am leaning to solid subframe and PowerFlex purple diff bushings. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I used to get wheel hop on my old supercharged e92. Then I started changing up the tires and eliminated the issue with Pilot Super Sports with fairly low tire pressure in the rear (27-28 psi cold).

On my current NA e92 I have never experienced wheel hop on PS4S, however did get a little with Cup2's in the winter when it was really cold out in the morning like 40's. Cup2's need a little heat in them to work while the PS4S have immediate grip all the time.

So for me, tires were the answer.
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      12-22-2022, 12:17 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by Scythe17 View Post
I will say this, I had wheel hop in my 2010 M3 convertible (6 Speed Manual)... I didn't lift cause I'm an idiot and never knew that it would end as bad as it did BUT I accept the consequences. I broke my right rear axle and CV boot $$$, Diff cover casting snapped $$, Parking Brake cable snapped, And the rear half of my drive shaft got destroyed $$$. Word of advice ~$3000 in repairs later (my uncle owns a shop and this was more than likely $5000-6000 worth of work) DO NOT KEEP GOING IF THAT B*$!# STARTS HOPPING. You have been warned. This sucked big time. And she's back in the shop now and I fear that the internals of the diff are shot because going around sharp corners in gear (even going in and out of parking spots) results in a harsh deep grinding noise...
Delayed af update because why not: That grinding noise did indeed end, when it broke again. Axle broke and the diff was left no longer connected to much... Thank you VAC motorsport you guys rock for fixing it on a budget, even if this was over a year ago.

They found out the rear subframe was bent (hence that grinding I mentioned before). Those guys managed to find me a rear subframe, diff, and axle for a decent price, then they inspected it, tested the fluid in it to ensure it has never had anything but the stock fluid in it, and fixed the whole thing for an honest price. They even noticed the rear-mid section of my brand new exhaust was put in flipped and fixed it for me for nothing, even hooked me up with an exhaust clamp because mine randomly broke on one of the tips before bringing it in. @VACMotorsport You guys are real ones!

It's been a bit over a year since, and I have had 0 issues with anything they touched since they had it.

To note: I have spun the tires while moving since then around some corners and it never hopped . Also learned that my tire pressures were way too high back then when I originally broke it, so this could totally be a factor, I now run about 36psi in PS4 A/S (265s). First time it broke I was on PS A/S 3+ at 47psi... don't do that ...
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      12-22-2022, 05:49 PM   #54
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The pinion angle may be out of specification; thoroughly inspect.
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      12-22-2022, 09:53 PM   #55
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I had wheel hop when I supercharged my car. Resolved it by going to wider wheels and tires. Didn't have to touch anything else.
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      12-23-2022, 02:20 PM   #56
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With MRF solid subframe bushings installed I have not had any more wheelhop
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      04-04-2024, 09:22 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redd View Post
Subframe definitely go solid. There's no additional NVH.

Diff maybe try Powerflex Black or the ECS set - both are 95A. If that fails then go solid.

You want to also consider going full spherical on the rear. Any rubber bush in the suspension acts like an undamped spring and may be a contributor to wheel hop.
Just finally getting around to doing the spherical on the rear. And dropping the subframe for solids. All planning for next winter as I missed my window this year (and I need to save my shillings).

Going to stay with stock diff mounts (will refresh them) but I will see what happens. Hope this will work as I do not want too much NVH.

Thanks Redd for the great post on the rear upgrades.

Cheers,
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