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08-05-2016, 10:46 AM | #23 |
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08-07-2016, 01:04 PM | #26 |
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I think this has been explained already. My other suggestion is to go with 18x10's. 18' are lighter and tires are cheaper too. Try the Re71R's. Great tire!
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09-06-2016, 10:26 PM | #27 |
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I would say that if you plan on doing solid rear differential bushings, that is when you should consider swaybars if at all while you have the rear subframe out. FWIW I'm opting to stick with my stock sway bars and just doing Powerflex rear swaybar bushings while my subframe is off the car.
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09-10-2016, 10:05 AM | #28 | |
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A front sway reduces understeer by increasing front roll stiffness. Front roll stiffness reduces the dynamic camber change and improves the contact patch on the front tires during cornering. Since you're no longer driving through the corners on the sidewall...which is not designed for max grip...you get more grip. Turner used to sell a 40mm front sway bar for E46s which they paired with no sway bar on their 325i. I definitely drive my E90 through quick switchbacks differently than my E46. You really need to be on throttle (at least maintenance throttle) to settle the rear end with the E90. The only reason I trailbrake in my E90 is because its by accident and I feel like I really needed to slow the car more. Which is why my E90 was soooo fun on track. Just begs for throttle through the corners. The stock E90 is super easy to control with the throttle...not sure swapping in more aftermarket parts will help.
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09-12-2016, 01:15 PM | #29 |
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Eibach also makes an adjustable front sway for our cars.
Eibach Adjustable Sway Bars Curious to hear thoughts on the Dinan bar vs the Eibach.
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09-12-2016, 02:20 PM | #30 |
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I am not a fan of the way their adjustment works, without proof/info to the contrary. The way the bar ends drop down and the three holes move the endlink attachment in such a way that it seems like it relies on putting progressively more bending moment on the swaybar to get additional stiffness, which means bushing bind when the bar tries to lift up against the mounts. By contrast the Dinan and RD bars have their holes oriented roughly parallel to the ground so that you'r twisting the bar primarily about the long straight center section, which is how a swaybar is supposed to work and how the OE bar is designed. Eibach appears to have foregone the spaghetti bends the stock and Dinan/RD bars have in favor of...whatever that is. Maybe it works great, no idea, but it doesn't pass the eyeball test without knowing more
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09-13-2016, 11:47 AM | #31 | |
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09-13-2016, 12:30 PM | #32 | |
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Running square 275s and pins-out-max-camber up front, the car is very well balanced; however, if I was doing track events with this car, I'd likely want an adjustable rear bar to complement it -- something that isn't allowed in SCCA autox.
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09-16-2016, 08:29 AM | #33 |
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The 60-70% stiffer range is where I landed with my RD Sport bar for best fun times on street tires (either middle setting both sides or one middle/one stiff) On Hoosiers, the car wanted all the bar had to offer and more
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09-16-2016, 09:01 AM | #34 | |
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All others, Listed my H&R front bar if anyone wants to experiment with: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20573207#post20573207 Lutfy |
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09-16-2016, 07:07 PM | #35 |
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Interesting thread.
So as i understand, the consensus here is, stiffer front bar will improve our cars performance at the autocross. But what about stock suspension that has very soft spring rate with front camber set to -2.8 and r-compound tires? Will it improve performance on the road course?
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09-17-2016, 05:18 PM | #36 | |
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09-18-2016, 06:34 AM | #37 |
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...well, one can't win a 1st place at Nationals without the larger front bar, so it likely matters. Everything about the car's handling is enhanced with a larger front bar on course as has been covered ad infinitum in the forum here by National level trophy winning drivers.
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09-20-2016, 06:07 PM | #38 | |
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If I had to do it again (swap); hmmm. If I had to do it first time, Eibach, only given the adjustability. Separate note, the endlinks looked pretty much overworked with the ends almost at their max. Let's see if they can take the load. Cheers, Lutfy |
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09-23-2016, 05:42 AM | #39 |
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Don't take this wrong but it's like you spent decent $$ to buy suspension parts you don't understand how to use. The whole point of camber plates is to have easy means to swap settings from street daily driving, and then separate track/autocross or spirited driving. All it takes is unweighting the car, loosening three top nuts a little on each side, slide the plates in to the settings marked and tightening. I personally had my previous car aligned to autocross/track alignment settings I wanted (typically a very little toe out - yes I it was a bit twitchy on the track - then marked) and lived with the alignment when the plates where placed in daily (toe moved in).
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09-27-2016, 12:50 AM | #40 | |
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09-27-2016, 10:32 AM | #41 | |
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09-28-2016, 04:14 PM | #42 |
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09-28-2016, 05:55 PM | #43 |
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09-29-2016, 08:42 AM | #44 |
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After some research, sounds like Dinan front bar is the best for our cars but is pricey.
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