How to install rear endlink

Koolsilver · 08-08-2017, 12:20 AM

I've checked everywhere and can't find anything on this issue. I'm trying to swap my rear endlinks for adjustable ones but I ran into the problem that the lower bolt on the endlink can't come all the way out because it starts to hit the axel near the hub. I can't find anyway to remove this bolt without remove the axel from the hub but I feel like there must be a way to do this as that is a very terrible design flaw.

Chuck's M3 · 08-09-2017, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koolsilver

I've checked everywhere and can't find anything on this issue. I'm trying to swap my rear endlinks for adjustable ones but I ran into the problem that the lower bolt on the endlink can't come all the way out because it starts to hit the axel near the hub. I can't find anyway to remove this bolt without remove the axel from the hub but I feel like there must be a way to do this as that is a very terrible design flaw.

Don't know how others did it.. But i had to grind the bolt out...
See later pics in this post: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpos...24&postcount=1
Had i known earlier, probably would've left it alone... However my luck was i managed to get a ratcheting wrench stuck so had to commit to the removal by any means necessary.

Word of advice, make sure you have replacement hardware ready to go! Good luck!

deansbimmer · 08-10-2017, 01:33 PM

BMW would have you remove the axle shaft to remove the end link. Most would unscrew the bolt as far as possible and cut it, then replace the bolt with a shorter one.

chalbe · 04-14-2019, 04:39 PM

I did this today, and this seemed like the best thread to update. I installed adjustable endlinks. I tried two different methods. I intended to drill out the threads in both instances, and install a bolt reverse of stock. Also, in both instances I detached the rear toe arm from the knuckle. The stock bolt is not long enough to use with the Hotchkis adjustable endlinks.

Passenger side: I backed the bolt out as far as possible, cut the bolt head off and removed the endlink. Using a double nut method to back the bolt out the rest of the way. This was working until the the bolt sheared off. After that I cut the rest of the bolt off, punched and drilled the bolt out.

Driver side: I heated up the bolt and sprayed some penetrating oil, and cut the endlink off. Then I measured the amount I would need to cut off the bolt and I used that to measure where to cut the bushing. I cut off one third of the rubber bushing with metal sleeve. I ran the bolt down and cut off the threads that were exposed, then I was able to remove the bolt.

08-08-2017, 12:20 AM	#1
Koolsilver Private First Class 65 Rep 175 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sacramento iTrader: (2)	How to install rear endlink I've checked everywhere and can't find anything on this issue. I'm trying to swap my rear endlinks for adjustable ones but I ran into the problem that the lower bolt on the endlink can't come all the way out because it starts to hit the axel near the hub. I can't find anyway to remove this bolt without remove the axel from the hub but I feel like there must be a way to do this as that is a very terrible design flaw.
	Appreciate 0 Tweet Quote

08-10-2017, 01:33 PM	#3
deansbimmer BimmerPost Supporting Vendor 3749 Rep 2,907 Posts Drives: 2011 E93 M3 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: DFW, Texas iTrader: (17) Garage List 1988 BMW M3 [0.00] 2013 BMW M3 [0.00] 2011 X5M [0.00] 2011 BMW M3 [0.00]	BMW would have you remove the axle shaft to remove the end link. Most would unscrew the bolt as far as possible and cut it, then replace the bolt with a shorter one.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

04-14-2019, 04:39 PM	#4
chalbe Private 17 Rep 82 Posts Drives: e92 m3, jeeps Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Columbus, Ohio iTrader: (1)	I did this today, and this seemed like the best thread to update. I installed adjustable endlinks. I tried two different methods. I intended to drill out the threads in both instances, and install a bolt reverse of stock. Also, in both instances I detached the rear toe arm from the knuckle. The stock bolt is not long enough to use with the Hotchkis adjustable endlinks. Passenger side: I backed the bolt out as far as possible, cut the bolt head off and removed the endlink. Using a double nut method to back the bolt out the rest of the way. This was working until the the bolt sheared off. After that I cut the rest of the bolt off, punched and drilled the bolt out. Driver side: I heated up the bolt and sprayed some penetrating oil, and cut the endlink off. Then I measured the amount I would need to cut off the bolt and I used that to measure where to cut the bushing. I cut off one third of the rubber bushing with metal sleeve. I ran the bolt down and cut off the threads that were exposed, then I was able to remove the bolt.
	Appreciate 0 Quote