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      01-18-2016, 10:29 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracin View Post
Lol yup. Outside on the floor. Wasnt too cold in October.
Noticed your jumpers, assume they came handy mate.... Bloody impressive.
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      01-18-2016, 02:26 PM   #24
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Very impressive brotha. Def here for you whenever you need anything, just bring some #sipofsunshine ;D
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      01-18-2016, 05:52 PM   #25
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What year motor? 40k on the bearings...ugh...look like a lot more than that. Any idea on oil change intervals?
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      01-19-2016, 08:07 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracin
Once the headlights are off, start disconnecting anything you see such as the wiring for the horns, the hood latch cable and the air intake box. There are three torx bolts to disconnect the oil cooler. Once you remove those, you can leave the oil cooler hanging on the lines.

In order to remove the front radiator support there are 4 13mm nuts on each side. Now you can choose to remove the radiator before or after you remove the front end. I realized this upon reassembly. I think it is way easier to remove/install the radiator without the front end on.

Only the top two studs on each side are shown for the 13mm nuts that need to come off. The bottom two are just underneath the crash bar.





I don't have any pics of removing the radiator but its just a matter of disconnecting the two hoses and the two power steering lines on the driver's side. Just be ready for fluid to spill. after i drained as much as I could off the lines, I tied them up.

At this point, you're going to be looking at this and wondering wtf you got yourself into. No turning back now.



lol @ "no turning back now". Good stuff!
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      01-19-2016, 08:24 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by admranger View Post
What year motor? 40k on the bearings...ugh...look like a lot more than that. Any idea on oil change intervals?
2009 motor, came from the original owner with 7500 mile oil changes.
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      01-19-2016, 07:06 PM   #28
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Nice job man. I'll be doing this sometime in the future when I install my stroker........ I sure hope the Canadian dollar recovers soon so I can have RG start building it and I am not paying $1.45 for every US Dollar for the parts and labour.
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      01-20-2016, 02:24 AM   #29
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Amazing work, good luck with the project.
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      01-20-2016, 07:00 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMRLVR View Post
Nice job man. I'll be doing this sometime in the future when I install my stroker........ I sure hope the Canadian dollar recovers soon so I can have RG start building it and I am not paying $1.45 for every US Dollar for the parts and labour.
I have a newly acquired spare block and i'm also considering a stroker. That exchange rate is a killer for you.
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      01-21-2016, 01:47 AM   #31
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      01-21-2016, 08:59 AM   #32
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This should be a DIY.
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      01-21-2016, 10:00 AM   #33
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Very Cool! Great Job Man! Thanks!
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      01-21-2016, 02:28 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracin View Post
Lol yup. Outside on the floor. Wasnt too cold in October.
Good for you man. Years ago I did the same with my Audi in the driveway. I spent half the first day labeling every vacuum line and electrical connection prior to disassembly. I even had several labeled zip lock bags for bolts that were removed. That prep work paid off and the car started right up without issues.
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      01-21-2016, 06:47 PM   #35
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Well done. Thanks for sharing!
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      01-21-2016, 07:46 PM   #36
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Wow - what a great contribution to the forum. Thanks for taking the time to document... Certainly better than the ridiculous bickering I see in almost every other thread.
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      01-22-2016, 08:46 AM   #37
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great job, great writeup with pics and cudos for sharing with the community.

I see you're from NYC so I'm sure we'll meet at one of the local Meets
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      01-22-2016, 08:36 PM   #38
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Like a real cowboy. I like it!
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      03-22-2016, 11:25 AM   #39
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great write up, and I'm sure as these cars continue to age.. this thread will be useful to someone in the future
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      08-24-2016, 01:45 PM   #40
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As an update, I just pulled another motor in similar fashion. Two new things:

1. I didnt need to remove the headlights. Came off attached to the radiatr support, just removed one t30 bolt securing it to the fender on each headlight.

2. I didnt remove the steering rack. I disconnected the tie rod ends from the hubs, but i left the rack bolted to the subframe.
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      04-05-2021, 09:51 AM   #41
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Super impressive DIY! I've heard of people with other motor swaps unbolting the a/c compressor and condenser and putting them off to the side or below the engine (keeping the freon in the lines) to avoid having to recharge the a/c system. Do you think that might be possible to do on these cars as well or is there something preventing that from working with an S65 replacement?

EDIT: Success, this made my engine swap easier. If you remove the engine up and out of the engine bay (similar to the video below) the a/c compressor can be unbolted from the engine and can be strapped to the side of the engine bay as the engine is lifted out. The entire a/c system can be left sealed. Thanks to ek9hatch00 for confirming.

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Last edited by Theodore; 06-25-2023 at 11:13 AM..
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      04-05-2021, 09:58 AM   #42
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It’s not just the compressor. I disconnected the lines to the condenser so as to have the complete front end off.
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      01-31-2023, 01:49 AM   #43
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I know this is an old thread but did you need to do anything with the laptop after you swapped everything over. We have nearly finished doing the same, finishing off fluid this week but worried about pressing the go button... Just wondering if you had to us ISTA?
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      01-31-2023, 06:08 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlism View Post
I know this is an old thread but did you need to do anything with the laptop after you swapped everything over. We have nearly finished doing the same, finishing off fluid this week but worried about pressing the go button... Just wondering if you had to us ISTA?
I did not. This was a manual car though. If you’re switching to a different DCT transmission, I believe you will need to program the new DCT trans to the car.
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