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      02-22-2012, 08:09 AM   #1
Technic
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Notes on a 2009 E92 M3 "decoding" of the EPS system to HiFi

Customer complaints about the EPS system DIRAC processing... no-impact bass, somewhat dull vocals, uselessness of the EQ adjustments to get it right. The cause of all those issues is located in the EPS OEM amp. Unfortunately the OEM amp cannot be removed/replaced as it is part of the MOST-ring and controlled by proprietary digital inputs.

Either a $700 MOST converter must be used or simply the iDrive CIC could be coded to output balanced, low level analog signals as the standard HiFi OEM sound system so the OEM amp can be unplugged and replaced.

Because the customer brought a full set of JL Audio HD amps (two HD600/4 and one HD750/1) plus a Stealthbox, this was a no-brainer: coding to HiFi.

Custom JL Audio PnP Quadralock-to-RCA harness:


Remove CIC and plug RCA PnP harness:


Run RCA extension cables to trunk, including tapping pin 13 (thin black wire) of the Quadralock for the OEM remote:


Unplug OEM amp, terminate MOST connector with termination loop, create HD amp platform and OEM audio harness (change 9-channels to 7 channels outputs) and stack the HD600/4:


Replace standard left OEM trunk trim with OEM CD Changer trunk trim to make space for the stacked HD's and install HD750/1 to power Stealthbox:


Finished upgrade:


Notes:
1) All OEM speakers were kept, even the underseat woofers.
2) iDrive CIC was coded from M Individual Sound to HiFi thus no more OEM 7-band EQ, just Bass and Treble adjustments
3) Center OEM speaker was handled by combining the front left and right CIC outputs into one HD600/4 channel. This sounded quite good with music but was troublesome for Bluetooth phone conversations. So the center speaker was unplugged until a proper processor is installed.

How this exercise sounded? Quite good considering that this a non-processed, flat system.

Voices are clearer, underseat OEM woofers midbass is tighter and louder. Definitely an improvement in apparent clarity and bass impact which again demonstrated that the limiting factor of this system is the OEM amp and not the Individual Audio OEM mid speakers. Treble needed to be adjusted to less highs, a byproduct of removing the DIRAC processing. The Stealthbox more than satisfied any need of sub bass, which really put this upgrade over the top relative to its simplicity.

There are sufficient adjustments to get a loud and clear (in that order) system in here, however this is a much better platform now than the OEM to add any of the high-grade DSP processors available in the market.

Last edited by Technic; 09-26-2014 at 12:14 AM..
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      02-22-2012, 08:38 AM   #2
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Nice work as usual Technic.
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      02-23-2012, 08:46 AM   #3
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are those 12's or 10's?
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      02-23-2012, 09:28 AM   #4
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Quote:
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are those 12's or 10's?
13"
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      02-23-2012, 01:24 PM   #5
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Great work Technic!!!
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      02-23-2012, 05:56 PM   #6
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Nice work!

M/F RCA extension so you can skip the couplers next time
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...9390&CatId=766
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      03-05-2012, 07:49 PM   #7
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What is the correct part number for the cd changer trunk piece?
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      03-06-2012, 09:14 AM   #8
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What is the correct part number for the cd changer trunk piece?
Coupe: P/N 51476956431
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      03-06-2012, 09:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Coupe: P/N 51476956431
Thanks!
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      03-06-2012, 09:35 AM   #10
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very nice, so wait does the car has premium sound? (sorry im a newbie when it comes to car audio) and you downgraded from hifi to base? sorry if it sounds stupid just trying to understand what was done
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      03-06-2012, 10:47 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by mkPOTO View Post
very nice, so wait does the car has premium sound? (sorry im a newbie when it comes to car audio) and you downgraded from hifi to base? sorry if it sounds stupid just trying to understand what was done
EPS = Enhanced Premium Audio system

This is the "downgrade" from EPS (MOST) to HiFi (analog) iDrive outputs.
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      03-06-2012, 08:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
Coupe: P/N 51476956431
Does it come complete with the door, etc. or does everything need to be ordered as well?
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      03-06-2012, 08:37 PM   #13
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It comes complete. However the one I got for my e90 did have a hole for the euro trunk power outlet so I purchased the plastic pieces of it to fill the gap
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      03-06-2012, 08:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE TECH View Post
Does it come complete with the door, etc. or does everything need to be ordered as well?
All is a single part...
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      03-06-2012, 08:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
It comes complete. However the one I got for my e90 did have a hole for the euro trunk power outlet so I purchased the plastic pieces of it to fill the gap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic View Post
All is a single part...
Thanks guys.
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      03-18-2012, 11:12 AM   #16
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Knew i had seen those amps in a pic somewhere!
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      03-24-2012, 12:48 PM   #17
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Technic,

I guess I am still dwelling on the same question. Do you see any SQ based justification for getting the HD over the PDX? The other way around? I do kind of like the idea of plugs but they're not worth paying THAT much more.

From what I have read so far, the only issue is the 2 ohm volume levels, which should be easily fixable by reducing gain sensitivity using the MS-8 hidden test menu to level match.

Thanks,

Tai
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      03-24-2012, 01:22 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Technic,

I guess I am still dwelling on the same question. Do you see any SQ based justification for getting the HD over the PDX? The other way around? I do kind of like the idea of plugs but they're not worth paying THAT much more.

From what I have read so far, the only issue is the 2 ohm volume levels, which should be easily fixable by reducing gain sensitivity using the MS-8 hidden test menu to level match.

Thanks,

Tai
To be honest with you, I always go with the less expensive solution if the difference in quality is insignificant to me. I never considered the HD amps any better than the old PDX just because of the price -sometimes priced at twice the cost of a comparable PDX. The new PDX apparently solved all the nagging issues (mostly noise) of the old version and then improved in many others (even better heat resistance) so to me there is no reason for getting the HD amps over the new PDX if price is the priority.

However, I do not like to give opinion of what sounds better than the other as each person takes car audio very differently. I'm perfectly happy with a $140 DLS component set, but others must have a set of Exotars or they go insane. The same applies to the HD and the PDX...
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      03-24-2012, 01:31 PM   #19
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Thanks, I will look at PDX also then. You mentioned later versions, I'm unfamiliar with the PDX since I hadn't considered them thus far. How do I determine the later versions? I'm trying to save a few $$ so I'm going to look at used.

In either case, my plan was 4x150w on fronts and under seats. 100w x2ch on biamped center, 100w on rears, 500w (or 300w if PDX) on Sub. What do you think of this power allocation? Better than my existing?
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      02-19-2013, 07:32 AM   #20
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Bumping this thread... Looking for somebody that has the know-how to code the Logic7 down. I have the software and cable, so it can be done remotely. Thanks for the info Technic
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      02-19-2013, 08:33 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Thanks, I will look at PDX also then. You mentioned later versions, I'm unfamiliar with the PDX since I hadn't considered them thus far. How do I determine the later versions? I'm trying to save a few $$ so I'm going to look at used.

In either case, my plan was 4x150w on fronts and under seats. 100w x2ch on biamped center, 100w on rears, 500w (or 300w if PDX) on Sub. What do you think of this power allocation? Better than my existing?
Kind of late responding... that power configuration is basically my own.
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      02-21-2013, 05:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technic
Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Thanks, I will look at PDX also then. You mentioned later versions, I'm unfamiliar with the PDX since I hadn't considered them thus far. How do I determine the later versions? I'm trying to save a few $$ so I'm going to look at used.

In either case, my plan was 4x150w on fronts and under seats. 100w x2ch on biamped center, 100w on rears, 500w (or 300w if PDX) on Sub. What do you think of this power allocation? Better than my existing?
Kind of late responding... that power configuration is basically my own.
Haha. No worries, had i known of the pdx v9 at the time i would have done it alpine but i got good deals on the JL HD stack.
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