Track forum general chit chat.

[turbo_joe]

Originally Posted by rhyary

turbo_joe

Nice entry speed. You got most others on your entry speed.

The sound is glorious

The 315s up front give me tons of grip to brake late

[hsaguirre]

Originally Posted by turbo_joe

Attended competition licesne school with NASA on friday and had my first races. Practice/comp eval race friday (which I won) and three legit races over the weekend. The comp license school was in the rain all day which made things more interesting.





Sundays late race was the best for me, had a rough start getting pushed off in T1 thanks to the guys next to me getting bumped by another car. Came back on track in 11th (from 5th) and fought my way back to finish P4.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64-9tQIJyts

Sound is amazing

[slcook54]

😈 finally. My carbon door cards are hiding in there too. Bimmerworld carbon trunk still in production. Flossman fenders also in production. Can’t wait for it to all come together and shed 100lbs+.

[slcook54]

More.

[m3number86]

Originally Posted by derbo

https://girodisc.com/big-brake-kit-replacement-rings/


355x32. You can email them to confirm.

Does it make a difference if its 355x35 or 355x32 or its just slimmer and thats it?

[derbo]

Originally Posted by m3number86

Does it make a difference if its 355x35 or 355x32 or its just slimmer and thats it?

If the ST40 caliper was made for 32mm, that means new pads wouldn't fit if the 35mm rotor was in place. If it was the other way around where you are putting a smaller 32mm in, its totally fine.

I'm not sure of the PCD of the rotor is setup for an ST rotor hat. I would call GiroDisc or contact them to confirm.

[m3number86]

Looks like fronts are 35 and rears are 32. Girodisc has both.

Are these rotors supposed to be better or a good alternative?

Thanks!

[CHSe92]

Originally Posted by m3number86

Are these rotors supposed to be better or a good alternative?

I used the Girodisc replacement rings for my ST60 fronts recently and they appeared to be nicer than the stop tech rotors. Machining on the rotor vanes was much cleaner and the included mounting hardware was significantly better. Buybrakes knocked off $100 or so when I ordered. I’m sure other vendors can discount them too

[okusa]

Builder is making the steering column mount now. He noted that the steering column is never centered on the E90x, but he can have the steering wheel centered on the seat, but not perpendicular, or off center but perpendicular to the seat. I’m not sure how stock is setup. Is there a general preference?

[m3number86]

Originally Posted by okusa

Builder is making the steering column mount now. He noted that the steering column is never centered on the E90x, but he can have the steering wheel centered on the seat, but not perpendicular, or off center but perpendicular to the seat. I’m not sure how stock is setup. Is there a general preference?

Would be weird to have it centered but slanted.

Can you get seat rails/mounts customized to he angled such that seat is centered to wheel?

[m3number86]

Originally Posted by CHSe92

I used the Girodisc replacement rings for my ST60 fronts recently and they appeared to be nicer than the stop tech rotors. Machining on the rotor vanes was much cleaner and the included mounting hardware was significantly better. Buybrakes knocked off $100 or so when I ordered. I’m sure other vendors can discount them too

Thanks I’ll look at buybrakes!

[Davisca455]

Originally Posted by m3number86

Thanks I’ll look at buybrakes!

Try Adam, he’ll fix you right up.

[okusa]

Originally Posted by m3number86

Would be weird to have it centered but slanted.

Can you get seat rails/mounts customized to he angled such that seat is centered to wheel?

Possibly, but I'm not going that exotic (just the MS seat mounts). He's going to align it as it was stock, which is just slightly off center.

[1FastSicilian]

Hey all! I read and lurk on this thread a lot but never really contribute as I’m absorbing all the info and building my e92 but figured I’d ask you guys,

Anyone need a Schroth 6pt? BNIB… $400 shipped obo

[Sanchez14]

Posted on the alignment specs thread in the suspension forum, but didn’t get any replies. Hoping for some recommendations on alignment set up.

Just installed coilovers and am going to take the car in for a good alignment once everything settles.

Car is mostly a weekend canyon car and 6-8 HPDE’s per year. My goal is better track dynamics, plus improved tread life on my track tires without putting too much additional wear on my street tires.

I’d prefer to not have to change camber each time I go to the track but open to it if it’s a must. Have adjustable camber plates so it is possible up front. I only put 3-4k total miles per year on it so not a ton of street driving.

I’m thinking something like -2.5 front and -1.5 rear. 0 toe front and -.15 rear could be a good sweet spot for street and track. Not sure on caster.

[bleedat]

Originally Posted by Sanchez14

Posted on the alignment specs thread in the suspension forum, but didn’t get any replies. Hoping for some recommendations on alignment set up.

Just installed coilovers and am going to take the car in for a good alignment once everything settles.

Car is mostly a weekend canyon car and 6-8 HPDE’s per year. My goal is better track dynamics, plus improved tread life on my track tires without putting too much additional wear on my street tires.

I’d prefer to not have to change camber each time I go to the track but open to it if it’s a must. Have adjustable camber plates so it is possible up front. I only put 3-4k total miles per year on it so not a ton of street driving.

I’m thinking something like -2.5 front and -1.5 rear. 0 toe front and -.15 rear could be a good sweet spot for street and track. Not sure on caster.

I think you might do more damage to the outside shoulder of the tire in 6-8 de's versus 4k street miles.

RE-71RS 285/30/18. Only street miles are to/from track.
Front camber -3.5
Rear camber -2.5
Front toe 0
Rear toe +0.25

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by Sanchez14

I’m thinking something like -2.5 front and -1.5 rear. 0 toe front and -.15 rear could be a good sweet spot for street and track. Not sure on caster.

max possible caster, max possible camber.. especially if you plan on using a super 200tw -3.3 is like bare minimum... so you'll need to either say fck it and run it or figure out a different tire.

my alignment.

Camber: -3.3F -2.5R (i need fix my camber plates i stripped a bolt or something... other wise id be around -3.6F)
Caster: 7.2
Toe Front: 0 (might do little toe in eventually)
Toe Rear: +.17 degree total toe

again these are for my driving! will vary from person to person, but we're all fairly close to the same..

[Bartledoo]

I finally got a set of MCS, 2WNR (on my new C8 rather than my previous E9X)…the ride quality on crappy Seattle streets is so good, even with seemingly crazy high rates - 5x the spring rate of the oem Z51 coilovers!

[rhyary]

Originally Posted by Bartledoo

I finally got a set of MCS, 2WNR (on my new C8 rather than my previous E9X)…the ride quality on crappy Seattle streets is so good, even with seemingly crazy high rates - 5x the spring rate of the oem Z51 coilovers!

Are you going to have a video setup on the C8 so we can see some action?

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by rhyary

Are you going to have a video setup on the C8 so we can see some action?

Yea, it has PDR so that video will be default. I’ll setup a gopro for in-cabin footage too after I do a few days, since nobody likes dashcam style track footage.

[spxxx]

[QUOTE=Sanchez14;29978107]Posted on the alignment specs thread in the suspension forum, but didn’t get any replies. Hoping for some recommendations on alignment set up.

Just installed coilovers and am going to take the car in for a good alignment once everything settles.

Car is mostly a weekend canyon car and 6-8 HPDE’s per year. My goal is better track dynamics, plus improved tread life on my track tires without putting too much additional wear on my street tires.

I'd run more caster and less static camber for a car that runs most of it's miles on the street, for 3-4k a year you'll still get almost a year out of most 200tw tires. Here's my latest alignment, I chose to go crazy on caster so we'll see how it handles. I also went with a bit of toe-in out back vs 0* to help with braking stability.

[spxxx]

Finally got the Race Louvers installed, I was hoping to go with paint matched vented fenders but $300 vs $2k was an easy decision. Might paint match them in the future but for now I'll deal with the absurd 5 front vent look. (Yes, I need to clean my disaster if a garage).

Excited to run Buttonwillow again this Friday after my oil pan incident, really hope my balls have grown back. I'm also excited to run 285/30 back to back vs 275/35 (both RE71RS) - the lower tread depth of the 285's will probably give them the grip advantage but we'll see! I'm tired of bending wheels and the short 285/30 puts my car with a 3.45 F/D at redline right before several braking zones which isn't ideal.