DIY: S65 M3 Rod Bearing

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by ha9981

What's the risk of the engine support bar failing? I am assuming load is still supported by transmission mounts. Any other mounts?

Is there a spot to have a piston jack on the the bottom of the engine for extra safety and support without interfering with the RB job?

Risk is as pbonsalb stated. Now, the probability of the support bar failing is pretty freaking low. If you are cheap, you can build one out of a 4x4 and a chunk of chain

[ha9981]

@pbonsalb I assumed the worst of it dropping right down on me.

Is there a second anchor point on the engine for a more balanced setup on the engine brace bar?

I know the main one but I saw on YouTube someone ran a chain or wire down to a second spot on driver side to get better balance. I prefer to be extra careful in cases like these.

[pbonsalb]

Definitely use the engine lifting point since it is intended for that. You can rig up as many more as you like but watch the routing so plastic parts and hoses, tubes, and wiring are not at risk of being compressed and breaking. You might find something else on the front of the motor if you look around, but you really don’t need it.

You will use a jack to help get the engine back to the right spot after the work since the support bar threaded hooks aren’t really meant to be used to raise and lower the motor.

[Assimilator1]

Originally Posted by MisterClutch888

Thank you for this thread. I did mine bearings during the weekend. It went very smooth. The upper bearings took more time to remove, but once i did couple of cylinders, i got used to it. For removing the fan, definitely recommend removing the airbox, it has so much more room. Lining up the steering column bolt wasnt bad at all, just have to line up with the tab and ur marks, approx the engine mount holes and all the subframe holes, slowly raise up the subframe and u are there. Not a hard job at all, just more time consuming than difficult.

Have you posted the pic in the rod bearings condition thread?

[MisterClutch888]

Originally Posted by Assimilator1

Have you posted the pic in the rod bearings condition thread?

I think i did, please search under my username

[frankc]

I have a question on starting the engine after completing the rod bearing procedure. The ECS instructions state to disconnect the coil packs and remove the fuel pump fuse, then:

'Turn the ignition switch to “Crank” and let the engine turn over
5-10 seconds. This will allow the oil pressure to build without
the engine needing to run.'

I can understand the motive for doing this, but:

1. With push-button start, how does one manually dis-engage the starter after 5-10 seconds, or will the ECU do so after a short time of the engine not firing?
2. Won't this throw a mis-fire code?

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by frankc

I have a question on starting the engine after completing the rod bearing procedure. The ECS instructions state to disconnect the coil packs and remove the fuel pump fuse, then:

[SIZE="3"]'Turn the ignition switch to “Crank” and let the engine turn over
5-10 seconds. This will allow the oil pressure to build without
the engine needing to run.'[/SIZE]

I can understand the motive for doing this, but:

1. With push-button start, how does one manually dis-engage the starter after 5-10 seconds, or will the ECU do so after a short time of the engine not firing?
2. Won't this throw a mis-fire code?

Just start the engine. Oil flow will take 2 seconds.

Well, assuming you used assembly lube or oil on the bearings.

😎

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by frankc

I have a question on starting the engine after completing the rod bearing procedure. The ECS instructions state to disconnect the coil packs and remove the fuel pump fuse, then:

'Turn the ignition switch to “Crank” and let the engine turn over
5-10 seconds. This will allow the oil pressure to build without
the engine needing to run.'

I can understand the motive for doing this, but:

1. With push-button start, how does one manually dis-engage the starter after 5-10 seconds, or will the ECU do so after a short time of the engine not firing?
2. Won't this throw a mis-fire code?

I followed the members tip here, and just started the engine normally.

My rod bearings were pre lubed with engine oil.

No problems here.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

Just start the engine. Oil flow will take 2 seconds.

Well, assuming you used assembly lube or oil on the bearings.

😎

Exactly, just start the engine

[frankc]

Thanks for all the responses - one less step

Originally Posted by Scharbag

Well, assuming you used assembly lube or oil on the bearings.
😎

Yes, I used RedLine assembly lube on bearings, but wanted to see if others were going through the ECS procedure.

[Assimilator1]

JFYI, yes it would throw codes for all the coil circuits being open, easy enough to clear though, no misfire . But as mentioned, with lube theirs no need to worry about doing that.

[tigermack]

Been a year I had mine done but didn't take a pic until now when I was cleaning up the garage.

[atopa2002]

Thanks Dani for putting this awesome diy out there .
Just completed swapping my rod bears on jack stands , I took my time , about 3 dys in all , working on it on evenings and weekends.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by atopa2002

Thanks Dani for putting this awesome diy out there .
Just completed swapping my rod bears on jack stands , I took my time , about 3 dys in all , working on it on evenings and weekends.

I really have to hand it to the ones who do this on jackstands. Truly amazing

Glad it worked out for you and she's back on the road!!

[kyrix1st]

I am sane enough not to do this on jack stands. I saw my neighbor do an IMS bearing on his 996 and that level of mechanic is as far as I would go DIY.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by atopa2002

I took my time , about 3 dys in all , working on it on evenings and weekends.

Originally Posted by TX

3 hours on jack stands!!!..

I think he meant 3 days.

3hrs on jack stands would be a super power and I'd worry if anything was torqued and how many left over parts there are.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by tdott

I think he meant 3 days.

3hrs on jack stands would be a super power and I'd worry if anything was torqued and how many left over parts there are.

where do these bolts go again?

[TX]

Yeah, I read it wrong...deleted my post. 3 hours would have been pretty cool though! Cheers!

[Assimilator1]

Regarding the bolts that need the 6" T30 socket, this is not a common tool, I'm reluctant to pay Snap on £25+VAT for a tool I'm only going to use for 1 job .

Seeing as the torque for those bolts are only 10Nm, I'm planning to use my 1/4" drive extensions and 8mm socket and 8mm T30 bit. (1/4" bits should be ok too).
But how big are the holes? Will a 1/4" drive 8mm socket fit down the holes?

SYT_Shadow Oh btw, re the op, it still has the error about 12 point sockets vs bi-hex, bi-hex sockets are 12 point sockets, they're the same thing .
Btw you mention qt in brackets in the torque settings, I thought qt was for quarts, a US fluid measurement, but you have it for the reinforcement plate bolts too, so what's qt?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Assimilator1

Regarding the bolts that need the 6" T30 socket, this is not a common tool, I'm reluctant to pay Snap on £25+VAT for a tool I'm only going to use for 1 job .

Seeing as the torque for those bolts are only 10Nm, I'm planning to use my 1/4" drive extensions and 8mm socket and 8mm T30 bit. (1/4" bits should be ok too).
But how big are the holes? Will a 1/4" drive 8mm socket fit down the holes?

SYT_Shadow Oh btw, re the op, it still has the error about 12 point sockets vs bi-hex, bi-hex sockets are 12 point sockets, they're the same thing .
Btw you mention qt in brackets in the torque settings, I thought qt was for quarts, a US fluid measurement, but you have it for the reinforcement plate bolts too, so what's qt?

I removed the bi-hex comments

QT means quantity. The torque value is in Nm at the end of each line

I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to do. If you mean use a 1/4 extension, the 1/4 extension fits in the holes fine, but the socket is too fat to get inside the hole.

[Assimilator1]

Ah quantity, got ya .

So an 8mm 1/4" drive socket is too fat for the holes? Wow! Must be tight! Damn.
I want to use 1/4" so that I don't have to buy a 3/8" 6" long T30 socket, which I likely wouldn't use for any other job. And my choices for the latter are Snap on (ridiculously over priced as usual) or some cheap Chinese sounding brands which will probably snap on the 1st bolt! [edit] Actually, I say that, but I was looking for 3/8" drive, I didn't look at 1/2" drive, maybe I'd have more choice there?
What make is your T30 socket?

Forgot to ask, are the sump (aka oil pan) bolts stretch bolts?? Or did you replace/list those just in case?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Assimilator1

Ah quantity, got ya .

So an 8mm 1/4" drive socket is too fat for the holes? Wow! Must be tight! Damn.
I want to use 1/4" so that I don't have to buy a 3/8" 6" long T30 socket, which I likely wouldn't use for any other job. And my choices for the latter are Snap on (ridiculously over priced as usual) or some cheap Chinese sounding brands which will probably snap on the 1st bolt! [edit] Actually, I say that, but I was looking for 3/8" drive, I didn't look at 1/2" drive, maybe I'd have more choice there?
What make is your T30 socket?

Forgot to ask, are the sump (aka oil pan) bolts stretch bolts?? Or did you replace/list those just in case?

Although I'm a big fan of quality tools, 10Nm is absolutely nothing. You'll be fine with some chinese garbage.

The hole is just a bit wider than the long T30 or a 1/4 extension.

My T30 is a gearwrench set of like 12 sizes. I use it all the time.


The oil pan bolts are not stretch bolts. I bought the bolts new just because I'm used to working on my E46M3 and every time I'd do a job the bolts were beat to crap. However, in the E9X the oil pan bolts look brand new.
The bolts I bought are still unused because even though I've done quite a few S65s I haven't found one with bolts that don't look great.