HELP:- Getting my E92 M3 back to life

[PurpleIllusion]

Dear M3 members,

I have a BMW E92 M3 which has been sitting in a Shed for almost 8 years now. The car was never driven since and I'm looking to get it back on the road and would like to have your expert advise on the procedures to do so.

The car has only 53k kms or 34k miles. The car has been sitting in a covered shed and would like to have all the things that I will need to check for before getting it back to life.

As I understand, the car could have gone on 'Sleep mode' and all batteries are dead. Would be grateful if you can advise on your expertise.

Regards,

Kirti
PurpleIllusion.

[spammysammich]

Check for rodent damage, tires will likely need to be replaced, as will battery, and fuel. I would change the oil and look into a procedure for priming the oil as if a major repair has been done. Have a scan tool ready.

[PurpleIllusion]

Originally Posted by spammysammich

Check for rodent damage, tires will likely need to be replaced, as will battery, and fuel. I would change the oil and look into a procedure for priming the oil as if a major repair has been done. Have a scan tool ready.

Thank you for your prompt reply. Would you be able to tell me more about the procedure for priming the oil. I've also been told that since it has been still for 8 years, the engine shouldn't be cranked at all as well as concerns for the transmission. It is an MDCT gearbox as well.

I've checked the car, tyres are flat, haven't checked for rodent damage but I just wanted to know the process before getting a mechanic to do the job. Just so I'm sure that reviving the car after 8 years wouldn't cause more damage to the engine or transmission.

Thanks of you can advise.

[spammysammich]

Another consideration that has come to light over the years is that the fuel injectors on these engines are subject to the same types of failures seen on the S85; failing open causing bore wash, bore scoring or bent rods. You may want to consider changing them just to be safe and then while you're in there the fuel pressure vent valve can probably be changed for a new one since the plenum will be off. The list of "while you're in there" items can get long quickly on an old car.

I can't advise you on the exact procedure for doing the oil priming step on an M3 as I've never performed it myself. I've primed a Subaru engine by disabling the fuel pump and crank position sensor. I'm not sure how to do it on a BMW. You'll have to google that. Also look up how to crank over the engine by hand at the crank bolt if you don't want to use the starter to spin it.

[2turbz]

Everything above is spot on, I would also get a cheap lighted inspection camera and peek everywhere you can especially inside the engine looking for sludge or rust. What kind of climate was it in? Hot/wet, cool/dry etc. I'd change every fluid and filter and priming the oil system and draining the gas tank is a good idea. Tires should definitely be changed too before doing anything but going around the block, rubber degrades over time and could be unsafe. I would run fuel additives the first couple tanks too like techron. Then plan for some gaskets and seals to be dried out and needing replacement down the line.

Sounds like a cool project and worth the time and expense given the miles. Attach pics if you can

[spammysammich]

I've recently bought this endoscope from a recommendation on this forum:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use it at work and at home. It has come in handy more than once to inspect intake manifolds, valves, electrical connections in hard to reach places and for finding dropped hardware.

[Longboarder]

Presume you are going to flatbed to a shop? Have you interviewed shops to see their experience with reviving dead cars to make sure you get one familiar with the exact procedures necessary for an e9X?

[PurpleIllusion]

Originally Posted by 2turbz

Everything above is spot on, I would also get a cheap lighted inspection camera and peek everywhere you can especially inside the engine looking for sludge or rust. What kind of climate was it in? Hot/wet, cool/dry etc. I'd change every fluid and filter and priming the oil system and draining the gas tank is a good idea. Tires should definitely be changed too before doing anything but going around the block, rubber degrades over time and could be unsafe. I would run fuel additives the first couple tanks too like techron. Then plan for some gaskets and seals to be dried out and needing replacement down the line.

Sounds like a cool project and worth the time and expense given the miles. Attach pics if you can

Hi, thanks for your message. The Car has been setting is a Hot/Dry place in a covered shed. Lots of dust on the car and haven't noticed major things in terms of degradation of the paint as it was ceramic coated.

[Redd]

What a cool project! Pls keep us updated on how it goes.

[PurpleIllusion]

Dear all,

I have taken my M3 to the shop on a flat bed truck and done the following:-

1. Flushed the Oil from Engine.
2. Cleaned Fuel Tank
3. Checked to Rodent Damage (none found)
4. Cleaned Air Filter.
5. Changed Oil and Cleaned Fuel injectors
6. Cranked the engine manually couple of times

The engine started and had some misfires whereby the coils were cleaned and interchanged and then it started idling properly without misfires.

Do you guys think that there could be other parts that will need attention given that it was kept in a covered garage away from bad weather?

Thanks

[PurpleIllusion]

Dear Redd,

I have taken my M3 to the shop on a flat bed truck and done the following:-

1. Flushed the Oil from Engine.
2. Cleaned Fuel Tank
3. Checked to Rodent Damage (none found)
4. Cleaned Air Filter.
5. Changed Oil and Cleaned Fuel injectors
6. Cranked the engine manually couple of times

The engine started and had some misfires whereby the coils were cleaned and interchanged and then it started idling properly without misfires.

Do you guys think that there could be other parts that will need attention given that it was kept in a covered garage away from bad weather?

Thanks

[amrazM]

probably change the brake fluid before you drive it and the diff and trans fluid.

[DrFerry]

A few photos of your M3 'resurrection' car and process would've been nice. The shed, the car, the shop, a video or two and this thread could've been quite the intriguing saga. Go on throw us a bone or two. Keep us updated. Brake calipers can seize from sitting idle. Moreover, brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water so be sure to flush the brake fluid out. Worth changing the differential fluid too IMO because hypoid tends to go 'off' possibly due to the LSD additives. Belts and hoses crack due to ozone attack and oxidation as do the flexible brake hoses. Be sure to check all of those too. The above list from spammysammich is excellent.

[MP0W3RD]

You're going to need tires.