ECS Brake Rotors x OEM

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by KawBoy

I don't track this car at all. I do drive it aggressively from time to time. That is pretty much it.

ok. if you're wiling to spend the money, i'd go for the stop tech oem sized slotted rotors.
slotted AND drilled is for aesthetics... the whole purpose for either is to vent the gasses between the pad and rotor caused by heat when braking hard. you just need one or the other, and i prefer slots because of the feel and bite they provide. if you have both drilled and slotted rotors, you are "overkilling" the ventilation and simply reducing the surface area of the rotor that the pad makes contact with- this negatively impacts the feel of the brakes through the pedal. ventilation by one or the other is enough. impact in cooling is negligible.
when you see all kinds of slots AND drilled holes in rotors its autozone shit just to look fast. ever see a serious brake kit with both? that should be a clue.

i think you'll also be very happy with something like a hawk hps pad or a ferodo ds2500. you won't be getting them hot enough to leave deposits on the street, so that isn't a concern.

[jeffkukuruda]

another plug for PFC Z pads, I have them all around on my M3 and have had them on multiple other BMW's as well. I do not consider them track worthy, anymore than OEM anyway, but they do have greater heat tolerance and slightly less dust. You can source them from Oreilly Auto parts as well as cheap as anywhere and they say they still honor their "lifetime warranty" when you get them there. Part numbers all check out, they are the same Z pads you'd get from bimmerworld etc. Good luck.

-Jeff

[ayao]

Originally Posted by KawBoy

So I guess OEM is my thing.

Thanks guys.

If dust is your primary complaint, it seems people like Akebono ceramics (dust is lighter colored so harder to see.)

[KawBoy]

Thank you all for the great info. I am not settled yet, but I guess I am going to stick with OEM rotors.

Thanks again.

[jeffkukuruda]

i would avoid ceramics if you are concerned with feel, yes the dust is lighter, but the pedal feel is not confidence inspiring at all.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by KawBoy

Thank you all for the great info. I am not settled yet, but I guess I am going to stick with OEM rotors.

Thanks again.

This thread is full of so much garbage it's unbelievable.

Don't take rotor advice from someone that is assuming what a rotor is like to drive. Slotted rotors don't have a different feel lol.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the OEM rotors. Don't listen to this garbage about needing to change them to Stoptech.


Sometimes people coming on here for advice leave more confused than before they asked because too many people on here just spew complete bs.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by doogee

This thread is full of so much garbage it's unbelievable.

Don't take rotor advice from someone that is assuming what a rotor is like to drive. Slotted rotors don't have a different feel lol.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the OEM rotors. Don't listen to this garbage about needing to change them to Stoptech.


Sometimes people coming on here for advice leave more confused than before they asked because too many people on here just spew complete bs.

Just to confirm, are you saying slotted rotors don't offer a different feel?

[doogee]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

Just to confirm, are you saying slotted rotors don't offer a different feel?

I definitely am.

Slotted rotors definitely help with keeping deposits off the surface, but to say they actually change pedal feel is non sense.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by doogee

I definitely am.

Slotted rotors definitely help with keeping deposits off the surface, but to say they actually change pedal feel is non sense.

You're wrong. And you are, in fact, contributing to confusion with this wrong information.

[doogee]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

You're wrong. And you are, in fact, contributing to confusion with this wrong information.

Please explain to me exactly how and why a slotted rotor provides better pedal feel or how it changes.

Real information, not your opinion.


This idea is completely absurd.

[roastbeef]

never was my opinion, it is a fact.

aside from my experiences, here is a wiki page i googled. basically restates what i already did and you called nonsense. the realization that almost every racing team uses a form of slotted rotors might be a clue as well.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake

"The brake rotor (or disc) is the rotating part of a wheel's disc brake assembly, against which the brake pads are applied. The material is typically grey iron,[20] a form of cast iron. The design of the rotors varies somewhat. Some are simply solid, but others are hollowed out with fins or vanes joining together the disc's two contact surfaces (usually included as part of a casting process). The weight and power of the vehicle determines the need for ventilated discs.[15] The "ventilated" disc design helps to dissipate the generated heat and is commonly used on the more-heavily-loaded front discs.

Rotors for motorcycles, bicycles, and many cars often have holes or slots cut through the disc. This is done for better heat dissipation, to aid surface-water dispersal, to reduce noise, to reduce mass, or for marketing cosmetics.

Slotted rotors have shallow channels machined into the disc to aid in removing dust and gas. Slotting is the preferred method in most racing environments to remove gas and water and to deglaze brake pads. Some discs are both drilled and slotted. Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads; however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces. On the road, drilled or slotted discs still have a positive effect in wet conditions because the holes or slots prevent a film of water building up between the disc and the pads.

A floating disc is splined, rather than rigidly fixed, to the hub as a way of avoiding thermal stress, cracking and warping. This allows the disc to expand in a controlled symmetrical way and with less unwanted heat transfer to the hub."

[chamba002]

I have ECS 2pc rotors for 1 year now and tracked once a month with Hawk DTC-70 pads.... No issues and still has lots of meat left. Visually, the ECS rotors are two piece, more vanes, addition of slots, than OEM. All helps improve cooling, and I have tracked at COTA which is hard on the brakes. I have no fade in Texas summer heat with four 20 min sessions. And its the cheaper then other 2pc rotors. I do use OEM rotors on the rear with DTC-70 pads just because most of the braking force is done in front and there isn't really a need to upgrade the rears. You can buy more higher end pads and rotors but for this setup I find it really good and more wallet friendly. If you are not going to track then just go OEM because its cheapest, and very capable on the street.

[KawBoy]

Do you guys know if the PFC # 918.10 is the correct one?

Thanks.

[GeorgeA]

Stick to OEM, better built quality and lower price. You won't feel a difference with slotted. M spends hours developing these rotors to meet their quality specs.

[KawBoy]

Rotors are OEM. I am going to give PFC pads a try. I rather have less initial bite but a more linear-fatigue-resistant pad. It looks like PFC Z rated pads perform that way.

[admranger]

Originally Posted by KawBoy

Rotors are OEM. I am going to give PFC pads a try. I rather have less initial bite but a more linear-fatigue-resistant pad. It looks like PFC Z rated pads perform that way.

They do. It'll take a bit to get used to the lower initial torque.

[KawBoy]

I should get the rotors and pads by tomorrow and will do the installation in a couple of weeks. This weekend is going to be the Gtechniq weekend, finally.

Thank you all for your opinions.

[ayao]

Originally Posted by admranger

They do. It'll take a bit to get used to the lower initial torque.

This is exactly my experience as well.

[pbonsalb]

I think for a track car or for a car driven so hard in canyons or mountains that the stock brakes have faded, pads that trade cold bite for fade resistance make sense. I drive on the street and have never faded stock brakes on the street, and actually like cold bite and a firm pedal.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

never was my opinion, it is a fact.

aside from my experiences, here is a wiki page i googled. basically restates what i already did and you called nonsense. the realization that almost every racing team uses a form of slotted rotors might be a clue as well.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake

"The brake rotor (or disc) is the rotating part of a wheel's disc brake assembly, against which the brake pads are applied. The material is typically grey iron,[20] a form of cast iron. The design of the rotors varies somewhat. Some are simply solid, but others are hollowed out with fins or vanes joining together the disc's two contact surfaces (usually included as part of a casting process). The weight and power of the vehicle determines the need for ventilated discs.[15] The "ventilated" disc design helps to dissipate the generated heat and is commonly used on the more-heavily-loaded front discs.

Rotors for motorcycles, bicycles, and many cars often have holes or slots cut through the disc. This is done for better heat dissipation, to aid surface-water dispersal, to reduce noise, to reduce mass, or for marketing cosmetics.

Slotted rotors have shallow channels machined into the disc to aid in removing dust and gas. Slotting is the preferred method in most racing environments to remove gas and water and to deglaze brake pads. Some discs are both drilled and slotted. Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads; however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces. On the road, drilled or slotted discs still have a positive effect in wet conditions because the holes or slots prevent a film of water building up between the disc and the pads.

A floating disc is splined, rather than rigidly fixed, to the hub as a way of avoiding thermal stress, cracking and warping. This allows the disc to expand in a controlled symmetrical way and with less unwanted heat transfer to the hub."

Given the stock rotors are drilled, there will be no difference if you use slotted rotors on the E92 M3. I have raced with all 3 types of rotors and could not tell you what rotor was on the car at what time based on the "feel" (how the brakes apply and release, allowing you to threshold brake - less important when you have ABS, which, IMHO, race cars should never have).

Typically, with modern brake pads, you want your race rotors to be solid or slotted but not drilled. This is because drilling can easily result in a lot of stress fracture locations if they are not specifically produced with racing in mind. If you look at the fine print for a lot of drilled rotor "upgrades", they specifically say "not for racing use" as they are decorative upgrades only.

Brembo/Willwood rotors for super-late-model cars (400+HP 2800lb circle track car, 6 piston callipers) are all slotted. They are ABUSED every lap for 200 laps and last for an entire season. No one runs drilled rotors (not even sure if they make drilled rotors for these cars).

Brembo has some good information on the history of drilling and slotting here:

https://blog.racetechnologies.com/20...slotted-discs/

Brake pads and feel is another story... Factory pads are fantastic for getting groceries. They do not like to be punished. Race pads are terrible for getting groceries, but they like to be abused. Example: we ran out of race pads (Carbotech) at our first 24 hour enduro at 22.5 hours... Pads never faded, we just wore them out. We threw a used set of factory pads at the car (we are better prepared now) and they sucked almost immediately. They also disappeared in 30 minutes. Finished the race second overall 5 laps down... Such is life.

Cheers,

[roastbeef]

i'm not saying it is going to be a huge difference, but i'm a firm believer that everything makes a difference, however slight. undoubtedly, pads are the biggest single influence in street driving.
with slots, you basically get to wipe the entire face of the pads, while exposing the pad to a sharper edge than drilled holes.
scharbag, how do you feel about slotted and drilled rotors?

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i'm not saying it is going to be a huge difference, but i'm a firm believer that everything makes a difference, however slight. undoubtedly, pads are the biggest single influence in street driving.
with slots, you basically get to wipe the entire face of the pads, while exposing the pad to a sharper edge than drilled holes.
scharbag, how do you feel about slotted and drilled rotors?

My opinion is that most drilled rotors are cosmetic "upgrades" (I also firmly believe that all cars should be manuals with 5 forward gears). That said, PROPER drilled rotors are just fine for racing. When I need to buy good RACE rotors, I buy slotted over drilled if possible. For street use, normal rotors are just fine IMHO.