DIY: Aftermarket Spring Install

marksae · 03-15-2012, 03:49 PM

For those of you who've done this install on cars with EDC, do we need to scribe the orientation of the strut during disassembly? Guess I'm just asking if the EDC motor can be reinstalled incorrectly.

Richard@M-World · 03-16-2012, 01:15 AM

Nope. The EDC connector inside the strut/shock shaft can be freely rotated.

PapaKlix · 03-25-2012, 10:08 PM

I did this install over the weekend (h&r race springs), pretty easy job but now there is a very noticeable sort of clunking sound on every bump coming from the front of the car. at first, i kind of thought i might not have shut the hood all the way. did this happen to anyone else? any ideas?

Richard@M-World · 03-26-2012, 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PapaKlix

I did this install over the weekend (h&r race springs), pretty easy job but now there is a very noticeable sort of clunking sound on every bump coming from the front of the car. at first, i kind of thought i might not have shut the hood all the way. did this happen to anyone else? any ideas?

I would check and make sure that all the nuts and bolts are fully tightened in the correct position.

Mike Lu · 03-26-2012, 06:36 AM

+1 on what Richard said.

In addition, check if the springs are locked in correctly. I just experienced the same issue after installing H&R springs for my buddy's 328, we ended up taking the car to the dealership since we cant figure out what's wrong, and the Tech found out the springs weren't locked in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PapaKlix

I did this install over the weekend (h&r race springs), pretty easy job but now there is a very noticeable sort of clunking sound on every bump coming from the front of the car. at first, i kind of thought i might not have shut the hood all the way. did this happen to anyone else? any ideas?

PapaKlix · 03-26-2012, 07:03 AM

Thanks for the quick responses. I actually did the job basically twice because of the noise, used a new torque wrench to tighten everything and used blue loctite on every bolt. 42 lb-ft on the anti sway bar and 47 on the top of the strut. I will do it again though and see if that helps. I'm a little nervous about pulling them off and putting them back on so many times, where can i order replacements from?

Thanks again, much appreciated.

PapaKlix · 03-26-2012, 12:09 PM

Here's a bit of an update that may help diagnose the problem: the noise is only present at lower speeds, 40 MPH seems to be the threshold. Above 40 there's no sound at all, what would be the likely culprit?

larryn · 03-28-2012, 07:11 PM

Pretty bad ass that I read this DIY to check out the M3 procedure, now that I picked up an M3... and it references back to MY DIY that I did in 2006!!

Great DIY, thanks.

HK8888 · 03-28-2012, 11:15 PM

bigjae1976 · 04-15-2012, 10:39 PM

This DIY is the bomb! And much safer. I finished in 4.5 hours. But it was a Dinan Stage II so I had to change out the front strut mounts, replace the front sway bar, and replace the rear shock mounts. I even installed a front spring upside down and had to redo it.

atruelunatic · 04-23-2012, 04:10 PM

Just finished installing Eibach lowering springs this weekend. Took about 4 hours cause I ran into a problem where I got the rear M14 bearing stuck. Make sure everything lines up before you push the camber arm up. Helps a lot to have a 2nd person jack up the camber arm while you're holding the wheel carrier in place and pushing in the M14 bolt.

E30_80Y · 05-04-2012, 10:25 PM

Got everything done today, took me about 5hrs due to the rear bolt not going in. Front was much easier than the rear. After I finished, drove it around and heard a clunk on both fronts on every bumps. I took the wheels off and re tightened the sway bar link bolts and that did the job. BUT NOWWWW headlights seem awfully high, I may have to check the light level sensor on the back that people are talking about(hope I didn't break anything)

DARK_M3 · 05-05-2012, 12:07 AM

Thinking about trying this DIY this weekend. I wish there was a step by step video. I hate the thought of screwing something up.

M3garage · 05-18-2012, 03:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shake&bake

Replaced the front OEM springs with Eibach Performance springs on Friday. Started with the front with the plans of replacing the rear springs later this week. I used the very helpful DIY instructions available on the forum and everything seemed to go OK. Here are my questions:

1.When swapping out the springs, did anyone replace the swaybar or strut lock nuts with new hardware? I just reused them, but am questioning if I needed new.

2.If I like the ride and look of the car with the Eibach springs in the front and the OEM springs in the back, is there a compelling reason to change out the rear shocks with the Eibach? I have 20" CH-R in 255/30/20, and 285/30/20 in the rear. 3mm chamber plat coming for the front. The car currently has an even stance and I'm worried if I drop the rear it will be too much for the 30 profile tires.

3.Dove the car home on Friday after the front install with no errors. Washed the car over the weekend and when I started it today there was a EDC error. I checked all the connectors and the wiring harness and everything seems ok. Any ideas?

Thanks for the help.

I have the same problem. Edc error. Did you find out what the problem was? I tried everything, might have to take it to the dealer. Any info would be appreciated.

BMW Fanatic · 05-26-2012, 03:49 PM

Does anyone have a full list of nuts and bolts that need to be replaced? I don't think walking into the dealer and telling them I am replacing springs will do much help lol.. Thanks guys.

bigjae1976 · 05-26-2012, 10:10 PM

Nope...I didn't replace any. Struts, shocks and springs are all still on the car.

BMW Fanatic · 05-27-2012, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

Nope...I didn't replace any. Struts, shocks and springs are all still on the car.

OK..?

Anyone else, please.

DARK_M3 · 06-07-2012, 08:58 AM

Doing this one today. I got a buddy to help me out to cut down on time. I'll let you know how it goes.

zcspec · 11-10-2012, 08:38 PM

up from the dead...

So my latest attempts to install KV Sleeves failed miserably today. I started out doing the rears and am completely defeated by the threading of the larger bolt through the control arm and wheel carrier. I tried everything and simply cannot align the holes together to get it done. Now I understand why I've seen others bitch and complaint about that one bolt. Un-frekin-believeable.

pbonsalb · 11-11-2012, 08:18 AM

Yes, they do have to be lined up perfectly. It may take some jacking and maneuvering.

1MOREMOD · 02-19-2013, 12:32 PM

this looks fairly straight forward. thinking of giving it a shot and saving that 350 on install. read the thread. is it as easy as it seems?

W Cole · 06-02-2013, 02:19 AM

Reading this DIY in preparation of installing my coilovers and didn't see this mentioned anywhere (I may have missed it). But I think you will want to tighten bolts 1 & 2 in the photo below with the suspension compressed at ride height to avoid undue stress on the bushings. FYI an easy way to simulate ride height when the car is on jack stands is to use a hydraulic jack to load the suspension to the point where the car just begins to rise off of the stands.

As far as the other bushings that may not need to be loosened to R&R the springs. Is everyone loosening these as well and re-tightening at the new, lowered ride height? Probably wont hurt since I will be doing an alignment anyways. Didn't see torque specs for these though.

03-15-2012, 03:49 PM	#67
marksae First Lieutenant 36 Rep 368 Posts Drives: ///M Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Bay Area iTrader: (6)	For those of you who've done this install on cars with EDC, do we need to scribe the orientation of the strut during disassembly? Guess I'm just asking if the EDC motor can be reinstalled incorrectly. __________________ 04 E46 M3 6MT - AW / Cinn 93 FD RX-7 Base Manual - BB / Blk IG: @gearheadtwins
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03-16-2012, 01:15 AM	#68
Richard@M-World 78 Rep 684 Posts Drives: NASA TTA #92 M3 Join Date: May 2011 Location: TX/IL iTrader: (0)	Nope. The EDC connector inside the strut/shock shaft can be freely rotated. __________________ Authorized AiM Dealer - Solo/Solo DL \| SmartyCam HD \| www.m-world.us
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03-25-2012, 10:08 PM	#69
PapaKlix Private 5 Rep 94 Posts Drives: e92 m3 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: massachusetts iTrader: (3)	I did this install over the weekend (h&r race springs), pretty easy job but now there is a very noticeable sort of clunking sound on every bump coming from the front of the car. at first, i kind of thought i might not have shut the hood all the way. did this happen to anyone else? any ideas?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

03-26-2012, 07:03 AM	#72
PapaKlix Private 5 Rep 94 Posts Drives: e92 m3 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: massachusetts iTrader: (3)	Thanks for the quick responses. I actually did the job basically twice because of the noise, used a new torque wrench to tighten everything and used blue loctite on every bolt. 42 lb-ft on the anti sway bar and 47 on the top of the strut. I will do it again though and see if that helps. I'm a little nervous about pulling them off and putting them back on so many times, where can i order replacements from? Thanks again, much appreciated.
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03-26-2012, 12:09 PM	#73
PapaKlix Private 5 Rep 94 Posts Drives: e92 m3 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: massachusetts iTrader: (3)	Here's a bit of an update that may help diagnose the problem: the noise is only present at lower speeds, 40 MPH seems to be the threshold. Above 40 there's no sound at all, what would be the likely culprit?
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03-28-2012, 07:11 PM	#74
larryn Lieutenant General 2146 Rep 10,176 Posts Drives: '97 332ti, '21 X5 45e, '16 GT4 Join Date: May 2005 Location: Seattle iTrader: (2)	Pretty bad ass that I read this DIY to check out the M3 procedure, now that I picked up an M3... and it references back to MY DIY that I did in 2006!! Great DIY, thanks.
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03-28-2012, 11:15 PM	#75
HK8888 Captain 24 Rep 926 Posts Drives: '08 E92 M3 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Boston, MA iTrader: (4) Garage List 2008 M3 Coupe [10.00]
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04-15-2012, 10:39 PM	#76
bigjae1976 Major General 1570 Rep 8,075 Posts Drives: 11 E90 M3 Individual Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Houston, TX iTrader: (22) Garage List 2004 BMW M3 [4.50] 2011 BMW E90 M3 [5.25] 2013 BMW 328i [5.00]	This DIY is the bomb! And much safer. I finished in 4.5 hours. But it was a Dinan Stage II so I had to change out the front strut mounts, replace the front sway bar, and replace the rear shock mounts. I even installed a front spring upside down and had to redo it. __________________ 2018 F30 320iX Melbourne Red 2011 E90 M3 Monte Carlo Blue 2004 E46 M3 Imola Red 2000 E36/7 Z3 Steel Blue
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04-23-2012, 04:10 PM	#77
atruelunatic Lieutenant 96 Rep 473 Posts Drives: n/a Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Seattle, WA iTrader: (1)	Just finished installing Eibach lowering springs this weekend. Took about 4 hours cause I ran into a problem where I got the rear M14 bearing stuck. Make sure everything lines up before you push the camber arm up. Helps a lot to have a 2nd person jack up the camber arm while you're holding the wheel carrier in place and pushing in the M14 bolt. __________________ 2011 e92 JzB 6MT Akrapovic Evolution, ESS Tune, KW V3
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05-04-2012, 10:25 PM	#78
E30_80Y Still love my E30 8 Rep 133 Posts Drives: E30S52+E90M Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Florida iTrader: (3)	Got everything done today, took me about 5hrs due to the rear bolt not going in. Front was much easier than the rear. After I finished, drove it around and heard a clunk on both fronts on every bumps. I took the wheels off and re tightened the sway bar link bolts and that did the job. BUT NOWWWW headlights seem awfully high, I may have to check the light level sensor on the back that people are talking about(hope I didn't break anything) __________________ E90 sparkling graphite-borla exhaust-arkym carbon fiber front lip-gloss black kidney grills-rd sport springs-19" iss forged fm-10
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05-05-2012, 12:07 AM	#79
DARK_M3 Banned 105 Rep 1,292 Posts Drives: 08 E90, 89 Grand Wagoneer Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: So Cal iTrader: (3)	Thinking about trying this DIY this weekend. I wish there was a step by step video. I hate the thought of screwing something up.
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05-26-2012, 03:49 PM	#81
BMW Fanatic Banned 135 Rep 3,293 Posts Drives: slow Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Calgary iTrader: (11)	Does anyone have a full list of nuts and bolts that need to be replaced? I don't think walking into the dealer and telling them I am replacing springs will do much help lol.. Thanks guys.
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05-26-2012, 10:10 PM	#82
bigjae1976 Major General 1570 Rep 8,075 Posts Drives: 11 E90 M3 Individual Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Houston, TX iTrader: (22) Garage List 2004 BMW M3 [4.50] 2011 BMW E90 M3 [5.25] 2013 BMW 328i [5.00]	Nope...I didn't replace any. Struts, shocks and springs are all still on the car. __________________ 2018 F30 320iX Melbourne Red 2011 E90 M3 Monte Carlo Blue 2004 E46 M3 Imola Red 2000 E36/7 Z3 Steel Blue
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06-07-2012, 08:58 AM	#84
DARK_M3 Banned 105 Rep 1,292 Posts Drives: 08 E90, 89 Grand Wagoneer Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: So Cal iTrader: (3)	Doing this one today. I got a buddy to help me out to cut down on time. I'll let you know how it goes.
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11-10-2012, 08:38 PM	#85
zcspec Lieutenant 212 Rep 456 Posts Drives: 911/Boxster/Model Y Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Orange County iTrader: (0)	up from the dead... So my latest attempts to install KV Sleeves failed miserably today. I started out doing the rears and am completely defeated by the threading of the larger bolt through the control arm and wheel carrier. I tried everything and simply cannot align the holes together to get it done. Now I understand why I've seen others bitch and complaint about that one bolt. Un-frekin-believeable.
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11-11-2012, 08:18 AM	#86
pbonsalb Lieutenant General 5212 Rep 10,594 Posts Drives: 18 F90 M5, 99 E36 M3 Turbo Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: New England iTrader: (4)	Yes, they do have to be lined up perfectly. It may take some jacking and maneuvering.
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02-19-2013, 12:32 PM	#87
1MOREMOD - 11817 Rep 23,187 Posts Drives: Race car-> Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: check your mirrors iTrader: (5)	this looks fairly straight forward. thinking of giving it a shot and saving that 350 on install. read the thread. is it as easy as it seems? __________________ 02 Tiag e46 M3\|6MT\|GC plates\|MCS c.o.\|GC bars\|GC race control arms\|GC bushings\|BW eng. & tran. mounts\|subframe kit\|BW race shifter\|BW Jaffster\|Euro header\|BW exhaust\|K&N c.a.i.\|Epic race tune\|Rouge pulleys\|Seibon CF hood\|CSL bumper\|apr gt 250 & splitter\|ST-40\|XR-2\|SS lines\|half cage\|Recaro profi\|Profi 2 harness\|BMWpedals\|BW studs\|
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06-02-2013, 02:19 AM	#88
W Cole Major 145 Rep 1,130 Posts Drives: 2009 M3 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Newport Coast, CA iTrader: (5)	Reading this DIY in preparation of installing my coilovers and didn't see this mentioned anywhere (I may have missed it). But I think you will want to tighten bolts 1 & 2 in the photo below with the suspension compressed at ride height to avoid undue stress on the bushings. FYI an easy way to simulate ride height when the car is on jack stands is to use a hydraulic jack to load the suspension to the point where the car just begins to rise off of the stands. As far as the other bushings that may not need to be loosened to R&R the springs. Is everyone loosening these as well and re-tightening at the new, lowered ride height? Probably wont hurt since I will be doing an alignment anyways. Didn't see torque specs for these though.
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