Sponsored by The Tire Rack

[SilverSlug]

I just learned that our M's come stock with adjustable camber... Idk how I didn't know this.

Wondering, what setting everyone is riding?

Show your pics!

[DRLane]

It's a minuscule amount. Get camber plates if you need more negative camber.

[Vuu]

Rear's can go up to -3.0 with the camber bolt.

Fronts are very minimal without camber plates.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by Vuu

Rear's can go up to -3.0 with the camber bolt.

Fronts are very minimal without camber plates.

I don't believe that's right? It's closer to 1.8~1.9 without replacing the suspension arms with fully adjustable.

Also, who would want that much rear camber?

[Vuu]

Originally Posted by DRLane

I don't believe that's right? It's closer to 1.8~1.9 without replacing the suspension arms with fully adjustable.

Also, who would want that much rear camber?

I'm running -3.0 all around.

I haven't replaced my suspension arms with something fully adjustable.

[M3SQRD]

There is no stock camber adjustment mechanism. However, there is radial clearance between the holes in the strut towers and the bolts on strut top hats which allows for a very small change in camber settings.

[Vuu]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

There is no stock camber adjustment mechanism. However, there is radial clearance between the holes in the strut towers and the bolts on strut top hats which allows for a very small change in camber settings.

He may have been referred to the rears which are adjustable.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Vuu

He may have been referred to the rears which are adjustable.

Ok, you could be right, but all E, and F, generation BMW Ms and non-Ms have had a rear suspension setup with adjustable camber. So not sure why that would come as a surprise

[Richbot]

Originally Posted by M3SQRD

There is no stock camber adjustment mechanism. However, there is radial clearance between the holes in the strut towers and the bolts on strut top hats which allows for a very small change in camber settings.

This is not correct. It's not radial clearance, they're slotted. The stock strut tower bolt holes are slotted for camber adjustment, it allows about 1/4" of movement. REmoving the alignment pin and moving the strut tower hat through the range the slots allow to adjust camber is part of the factory repair procedure if the car still can't get in spec after a collision repair. This is also why the strut tower bars that go to the firewall have slots in them, rather than a fixed, round bolt hole, to allow the strut tower mounting plate for the strut tower bar to move along with the strut bolts.

You get about 0.4 degrees of additional negative camebr up front by maxing out the available adjustment.

And, while it's not a lot, it's better than nothing. My car went from right at 1.0 from the factory to 1.4 with the pin pulled and strut pushed all the way inboard, with no other changes.

This adjustment was available on all E9x. It's not available on the F3x/8x, the upper strut mounts use round holes and the factory repair procedure is to use a camber correction knuckle.

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Richbot

This is not correct. It's not radial clearance, they're slotted. The stock strut tower bolt holes are slotted for camber adjustment, it allows about 1/4" of movement. REmoving the alignment pin and moving the strut tower hat through the range the slots allow to adjust camber is part of the factory repair procedure if the car still can't get in spec after a collision repair. This is also why the strut tower bars that go to the firewall have slots in them, rather than a fixed, round bolt hole, to allow the strut tower mounting plate for the strut tower bar to move along with the strut bolts.

You get about 0.4 degrees of additional negative camebr up front by maxing out the available adjustment.

And, while it's not a lot, it's better than nothing. My car went from right at 1.0 from the factory to 1.4 with the pin pulled and strut pushed all the way inboard, with no other changes.

This adjustment was available on all E9x. It's not available on the F3x/8x, the upper strut mounts use round holes and the factory repair procedure is to use a camber correction knuckle.

Sorry for not using “slotted”, however, the holes and threaded studs are not a line-to-line fit so technically there is radial clearance

[SilverSlug]

So in order to increase negative camber without using camber plates, I would need to loosen the lock nuts, and then turn the screw to elongate that bar, which pushes the bottom of the wheel out? Correct?

(Sorry for not using the proper parts terminology).