Wax/Sealant questions

[MrHarris]

Right now I have Mother's California Gold Pure Carnauba wax that I bought because it was cheap and figured why not give it a try.

Would it be worth it to shell out extra money for a different wax like Chemical Guys 50/50?

Would I see a difference?

Any other waxes you guys recommend?




Also, I'm currently using Durogloss 105 as a sealant. It's cheap, and seems to work okay. Are there any other sealants that may be worth the extra money?

[Fen335i]

You've probably read about it before on here from other guys, but I'm a Zaino guy...love their stuff. You get a great shine, protection and it lasts a lot longer than the carnubas. It does cost more, but it's worth it IMO.

I haven't tried Chemical Guys yet, but have heard positive things about them as well.

[d00t]

Stick with 105. it's cheap, decent look, and outstanding durability.

I'd look at some collinite from detailers domain (if he still carries it). It's cheap as well, and outstanding look. But there's nothing wrong with Pete's 53 or 50/50

[gthal]

I really like Collinite 845 as a sealant. Many professional detailers will swear by its ability to provide great protection for the entire winter season.

I then top the sealant with a carnauba for looks. I use Duragloss Aquawax 951 because it is a spray on, wipe and walk away wax that looks great. It is so easy to apply, I use it almost every week to top up (probably doesn't need it but I do it anyway). I also really like P21S because it is so easy to apply and remove. I'm seriously thinking of getting some Dodo Juice Supernatural to try out.

Having said that, Zaino is another "stand-by" I often turn to because it looks nice and has good durability. It is a bit of a pain in the a$s and not cheap but is a great product.

[MrHarris]

Guys, lets say I apply sealant to my car then wax. A month later the wax is somewhat gone so I want to reapply.

After washing my car, what steps do I need to do in order to apply wax but not strip the sealant?

[JH M3]

Not a big fan of Mother's. Creates lots of dust and is tough to get off rubber trim. I personally use Adam's Polishes products.

[Jasonnator]

Originally Posted by MrHarris

Guys, lets say I apply sealant to my car then wax. A month later the wax is somewhat gone so I want to reapply.

After washing my car, what steps do I need to do in order to apply wax but not strip the sealant?

Be sure to read the diluting directions on your wash medium. Too much will put you in paint prep territory and start stripping of all of your protection. If you are following that correctly, the sealant will last 4-6 months (dependent on climate and proper application). You can apply waxes right on top of sealant.

What you need to watch out for is when you use all purpose cleaners or something fairly strong to remove bugs/tar. Those areas will need sealant reapplied then your wax on top of that.

I hope that helps.

[MrHarris]

Originally Posted by Jasonnator

Be sure to read the diluting directions on your wash medium. Too much will put you in paint prep territory and start stripping of all of your protection. If you are following that correctly, the sealant will last 4-6 months (dependent on climate and proper application). You can apply waxes right on top of sealant.

What you need to watch out for is when you use all purpose cleaners or something fairly strong to remove bugs/tar. Those areas will need sealant reapplied then your wax on top of that.

I hope that helps.

Do I need to claybar every time I re-apply wax? I use quick detailer with my clay bar... this won't strip any sealant right?

[Jasonnator]

No, you do not need to clay. Clay removes everything so your paint is bare and ready for correction (polishing) but also has zero protectants. You only want to clay after you've washed with paint correction strength wash ratios. Claying gets the bare surface of your paint as perfectly smooth as possible so your products will properly bond. As a general rule of thumb, you only want to clay 1-2 times per year in coordination with you major details. When claying, you are absolutely right to use some sort of lubricant though. Some people use a quick detailer, others use diluted car wash soap.

Take a look at this. It's very detailed and full of great info on a lot of common misconceptions. I cringe now at how I used to maintain my vehicles! I had the best intentions and was meticulous but a lot of effort was spent without a solid knowledge base of how to do things the right way. All of that effort gave me a squeaky clean car with tons of swirls

The one exception I would say is if you are using clay to help remove very stubborn spots like bugs/tar. Again, you will need to reapply sealant and wax to those areas after cleaning up those small spots.

Let me know if that is clear as mud.

[FruitCake]

it'll only look as good as your paint prep.
I have over 10 jars of different waxes raging from $50 to $500
my favorite combo for my AW right now is RBOE over 2 layers of JS109

[Jasonnator]

Yeah that Jet Seal 109 is some mean stuff. Incredible product.

[MrHarris]

Jasonnator - Thanks, that really cleared things up. I'm just going to clay before I polish/use sealant. I'm happy I can just re-wax after a wash


Jet Seal 109 worth the extra price over Duragloss 105? There a real difference?

Does Jet Seal 109 last at least 6 months in the real world?


Also, what's everyone think about CG P21S? Seems in my price range for a wax... looking to not spend over $50.

[FruitCake]

CG P21S?
never heard of that but the JS109's durability is not that great. Prob 3 months maximum in SoCal. I do top it with RBOE so mine probably lasts longer than that but I re-do my LSP's every month anyways so I can't tell you about durability, only from what i've heard.

JS109 is amazing and def worth the price IMO. Espcially on white cars like ours it looks AMAZING. With a Flex/PC with blue pad, it literally takes me 5-10 minutes to apply the whole car. Give it 2-3 hours to cure and another 10 minutes to remove.

[Jasonnator]

Hey no problem. I'm glad I could help.

If you've never polished with a machine buffer before, find someone that really knows what they're doing to show you the ropes and read read read on that DI site. There are lots of videos around as well. PM me if you want more on all of that so the thread doesn't get jacked.

If you want a bulletproof sealant, Klasse probably has the most durable product. If you get that though, it can be a PITA to remove but it is the Gov'na of sealants. JS109 is an amazing bang for buck product that looks great and is fairly durable as well. For most people, it's the way to go especially if you apply two coats 12 hours apart.

[MrHarris]

Originally Posted by Jasonnator

Hey no problem. I'm glad I could help.

P21S is awesome stuff and it's ph balanced so it's safe for any finish wheel.

If you've never polished with a machine buffer before, find someone that really knows what they're doing to show you the ropes and read read read on that DI site. There are lots of videos around as well. PM me if you want more on all of that so the thread doesn't get jacked.

If you want a bulletproof sealant, Klasse probably has the most durable product. If you get that though, it can be a PITA to remove but it is the Gov'na of sealants. JS109 is an amazing bang for buck product that looks great and is fairly durable as well. For most people, it's the way to go especially if you apply two coats 12 hours apart.

Awesome. I'm going to purchase Jet Seal 109, and torn between CG P21S 100%($50 for 6oz), CG 50/50 ($45 for 16oz) or Poorboys Natty's Red ($21 for 8oz)

[Jasonnator]

Ultimate bang for buck setup IMO:

CG Glaze 16oz - $17 (optional but will make your paint pop!)
CG JS109 16oz - $40
CG 50/50 16oz - $45 (16oz and you will use often for same price)

A little over $100 and your finish will look incredible.

[FruitCake]

Im pretty sure ur refering to P21S 100%, its not made by CG, dont get that wax. I had it b4 and it suxxxxx

if u want to spend sub100 for wax, get Dodo Juice

[dr.jay]

FWIW I tried CG MSeal and its right on par with JetSeal but cheaper. Check out Detailedimage.com they have a big wax sale going on right now. I also have AW and I think a sealant topped with a good 'nuba looks outstanding!!! I use DODO Juice Rainforest Rub

[Fen335i]

Remember you have a AW car (like me)....with no metallic in it so it's only going to "shine" so much...swirls are pretty hard to see w/white. I think you can go too far w/polishes and waxes. Now, if you have a dark colored car you can really bring out the color more, but white is white... That said I still thing Zaino is the way to go. Long lasting and provides a solid shine. I used to have a Black Saphire Metallic 335 that was hard as hell to keep clean, but once it was Zainoed it was tough to beat...the color was soooo deep. Loved it.

[Alias]

I've been using Jetseal & Pete's 53 for 2 years now and love it

Be careful with Jetseal..a little goes a long way.

I usually do 3 layers of Jetsealand let them sit for 4, 6 and 12 hrs.

[Kyoshi71]

What your using now is fine. Dont get caught up in the product hype (eh hem..swissvax)

[MrHarris]

I just bought a bunch of CG stuff

Can you put more than one layer of wax? Any real benefits?