2009 E90 100K mile maintenance completed

[WingZeroX5]

Just completed my list of maintenance that I wanted to do as the car reached 100k miles. A little bit of background~

I purchased the vehicle at 60k miles and I personally put 40k in a matter of 2.5 years, I just love driving this thing (My 2nd M3 btw)! So between the time I bought it, up until yesterday (or this weekend), I had the following below completed:

Strict 7k OCI - I used Pennzoil ultra platinum w/pp, 0W-40 for a year, then switched to the Rotella T6. Used WIX 57997 for all oil changes. When I say strict, I mean it! I brought with me an oil change kit on our way down to FL and stopped at a base!

65K - Akebono pads at the front
66K - D1S bulbs (left one blown out lol)
70K - Upgraded to Dinan CF intake
75K - Brake and coolant flushed, CONTROL ARMS (Front and Rear)
80K - New battery (Autocraft H8 AGM 900cca)
90K - Power steering fluid flushed

100k - oil change, spark plugs (NGK), engine air filter (Dinan), cabin filter (MANN), engine mounts (LEMFORDER), drive belts (CONTINENTAL), brake fluid change (VALVOLINE), checked / topped off fluids (various)

I still have struts and DCT filter kit to do, but I am waiting after Memorial Day to use my buddy's lift. I did change trivial stuff like wiper blades and stuff like that last week and during my ownership so far.

I gotta say, the car feels amazing now. The engine mounts made the difference IMO, since mine was completely destroyed.

See pics!

BTW, like all the DIY threads in this forum says, the spark plugs closest to the firewall is a BITCH. Anyone attempting it will need AT LEAST a 6" extension MAXIMUM, I think if i had a 4", it would be much less aggravating.

Here's how it sounds btw

[pbonsalb]

Might want to do diff, brake, power steering, and trans fluid, and coolant. Brakes are every 2 years. BMW calls the rest lifetime but does not define lifetime.

[X5-User]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Just completed my list of maintenance that I wanted to do as the car reached 100k miles. A little bit of background~

I purchased the vehicle at 60k miles and I personally put 40k in a matter of 2.5 years, I just love driving this thing (My 2nd M3 btw)! So between the time I bought it, up until yesterday (or this weekend), I had the following below completed:

Strict 7k OCI - I used Pennzoil ultra platinum w/pp, 0W-40 for a year, then switched to the Rotella T6. Used WIX 57997 for all oil changes. When I say strict, I mean it! I brought with me an oil change kit on our way down to FL and stopped at a base!

65K - Akebono pads at the front
66K - D1S bulbs (left one blown out lol)
70K - Upgraded to Dinan CF intake
75K - Brake and coolant flushed, CONTROL ARMS (Front and Rear)
80K - New battery (Autocraft H8 AGM 900cca)
90K - Power steering fluid flushed

100k - oil change, spark plugs (NGK), engine air filter (Dinan), cabin filter (MANN), engine mounts (LEMFORDER), drive belts (CONTINENTAL), brake fluid change (VALVOLINE), checked / topped off fluids (various)

I still have struts and DCT filter kit to do, but I am waiting after Memorial Day to use my buddy's lift. I did change trivial stuff like wiper blades and stuff like that last week and during my ownership so far.

I gotta say, the car feels amazing now. The engine mounts made the difference IMO, since mine was completely destroyed.

See pics!

BTW, like all the DIY threads in this forum says, the spark plugs closest to the firewall is a BITCH. Anyone attempting it will need AT LEAST a 6" extension MAXIMUM, I think if i had a 4", it would be much less aggravating.

Here's how it sounds btw

How easy is DIY for engine mounts? Did you use lift?

Thanks

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Might want to do diff, brake, power steering, and trans fluid, and coolant. Brakes are every 2 years. BMW calls the rest lifetime but does not define lifetime.

I did those already, diff and trans im waiting until after memorial day

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by Bimmer-M3

How easy is DIY for engine mounts? Did you use lift?

Thanks

Its not difficult at all, just a bit tedious since you would have to run from one side to another to make sure the engine itself is going into the mount when lowering it. Other than that, just screws and the bolts holding the K member to the frame.

Get an impact gun if you dont have one. I have two floor jacks and used them for this

[RoundelObsession]

Are you running Rotella T6 5w40 or 15w40.

Edit: I see the T6 is 5w40 only.

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by RoundelObsession

Are you running Rotella T6 5w40 or 15w40.

Edit: I see the T6 is 5w40 only.

[W///]

Very nice, I love seeing posts like this. My E92 is parked (got a rental until airbags come in) so I plan on doing a few things as well. First order of business is cleaning the air filter and replacing the belts. Will also need to do brake fluid too, it's been over 2 years for me.

[spr]

Is there a DIY for this? Indications how they were bad?

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Its not difficult at all, just a bit tedious since you would have to run from one side to another to make sure the engine itself is going into the mount when lowering it. Other than that, just screws and the bolts holding the K member to the frame.

Get an impact gun if you dont have one. I have two floor jacks and used them for this

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by spr

Is there a DIY for this? Indications how they were bad?

I used this
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1005111

It's very easy to tell if they're bad by looking right at it. Take your wheel off and the mounts are right there. Any indications of cracking or in some extreme cases, totally collapsed, will need to replace them.

Or, excessive shaking in the cabin when idle / driving is another sign.

[spr]

Thanks!

[Powashiftin]

How did you know when to replace the control arms?

[Cbozz]

engine sounds good!!

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by Powashiftin

How did you know when to replace the control arms?

Wheel shaking at higher speeds, torn rubber, leaking fluid, clunking noise when doing the 3-6 test...etc

Originally Posted by Cbozz

engine sounds good!!

Just like a sewing machine

[dparm]

Why did you replace the motor mounts? Were you having NVH problems?

Similarly, why did you replace the struts?

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by dparm

Why did you replace the motor mounts? Were you having NVH problems?

Similarly, why did you replace the struts?

Did you not see the picture above? My mounts were destroyed. I would get a weird shake when stopped occasionally

My struts were on its way out.

[dparm]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Did you not see the picture above? My mounts were destroyed. I would get a weird shake when stopped occasionally

My struts were on its way out.

My bad, those didn't load the first time I looked at the thread.

What sort of issues were you seeing with the struts? Sudden change of ride quality? Leaking?

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by dparm

My bad, those didn't load the first time I looked at the thread.

What sort of issues were you seeing with the struts? Sudden change of ride quality? Leaking?

Ride quality was way hard, the bumps were not as dampened and felt like I was riding on train wheels. I test drove an 2013 e92 M3 to gauge how the "new" ride quality would be and was enough to tell that I needed new struts

[kb9uwu]

Rotella T, the proven choice for over the road big rig semi's for decades. If it's good for semis, it must be good for the S65! lol

[PACarGuy]

For the rear control arms, did you do all of them, e.g. the 10 piece FCP kit?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...10piecerear#qa

[WingZeroX5]

Originally Posted by PACarGuy

For the rear control arms, did you do all of them, e.g. the 10 piece FCP kit?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...10piecerear#qa

Didn't do the trailing arm

[PACarGuy]

Originally Posted by WingZeroX5

Didn't do the trailing arm

OK, thanks. Was it a relatively easy DIY?