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04-02-2013, 04:07 PM | #45 | |
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Really simple DIY btw, definitely worth doing.
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04-08-2013, 06:45 PM | #46 |
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Were you able to fill up the tranny quickly with the spray bottle? Thinking about how much liquid shoots out from a spray bottle it seems like it would take forever?
And is the consensus you don't need to activate the pump to try and drain out the remaining fluid? You just need to drain it from the drain hole and refill like a standard tranny? Thanks
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04-09-2013, 12:41 PM | #47 | |
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The amount of fluid in the pump and transmission cooler is about 250 ml according to a previous post. That is about 10% of what the transmission takes total in fluid. I did not activate the pump but my fluid wasn't that bad. Whether or not activate the pump, I would use your own discretion and consider taking it to a shop or dealer since there is no home tool to activate the pump at the moment. If it has been well over 30K miles or driven on many track days then getting that last bit of fluid out might be a good idea. If you don't find the pump activation necessary, then drain and refill like a standard tranny. Good luck with everything. Last edited by jjw2331; 04-09-2013 at 12:45 PM.. Reason: I got my measurements wrong |
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04-09-2013, 01:47 PM | #48 |
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Ok, thanks.
I actually have the pump where there is a tube that goes into the transmission fluid container and another tube that goes into the tranny. It moves the fluid quickly but it ends up spilling or I have to have someone hold on to it while I pump. I like the spray bottle method because it seems "cleaner."
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04-09-2013, 02:22 PM | #49 | |
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FYI, I didn't bother activating the pump. No problems after 1k mile trip.
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05-03-2013, 09:13 AM | #50 |
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Flushing the transmission and cycling the pump is really easy. You don't need any fancy special tools. The pump has a connector with a wiring harness plugged into it. This harness has a brown wire and a red wire. The brown wire is connected to the ground. The red wire is connected to the +ve terminal of the battery via the car's computer. When the oil gets hot, the computer completes the circuit to activate the pump.
The dealer cycles the pump by completing this circuit via their scan tool. But you can MacGyver your way around this problem. All you have to do is directly connect the +ve battery terminal to the red wire bypassing the car's computer control. All I did was unplug the connector, and take it apart. I then piggybacked a small old wire onto the red wire and reassembled the connector and plugged it back in. The other end of my piggybacked wire was loose and hanging out of the connector. Then I got booster cables, connected one end to the +ve terminal under the hood, and touched the other end of that cable onto the exposed end of my piggyback. After you drain the transmission oil, you leave the drainplug off and activate the pump for 30 seconds. This drains the oil in the cooler and lines. Then tighten the drain plug and fill the gearbox with 2 L of oil. Close the fill plug and cycle the pump again for 30 seconds to refill the cooler with new oil. Then open the fill plug and top off the oil till it flows out of the hole and tighten the fill plug. And that's it. Using this method I was able to change about 2.5 L of oil, which I believe is a complete flush. |
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05-03-2013, 09:39 AM | #51 |
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^I was thinking of this too but I didn't know how many volts and the current draw the pump actually takes. Do you think it's safe for the pump to be directly collected to the +ve terminal under the hood without frying?
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05-03-2013, 10:09 AM | #52 |
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Yes. Totally safe. It's just a pump, no different than the air pump that comes in the mobility kit in the trunk. All it needs is 12V direct current. The only problem i had was that my piggyback wire was probably too thin. The terminal in contact with the booster cable did get a bit hot. So I was cycling the pump more like 5 seconds on, 10 seconds off. But the total cycling time was about 30 seconds. I would have used a thicker wire, except that I didn't have one, and also the plastic harness for the connector is a tight fit and I doubt a thicker piggyback would have fit onto the connector.
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07-04-2013, 12:52 PM | #54 |
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One must replace the entire plug/bolt? The "gasket ring" (a.k.a. washer right?) isn't a separate piece?
Thanks
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07-04-2013, 03:16 PM | #55 | |
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BMW TIS only says to check oil screen ( replace if necessary), and replace sealing ring when installing As for the fill and drain bolts, it says to clean and screw in. Doesn't even say to change the sealing washers. |
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07-04-2013, 05:42 PM | #56 |
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Are there separate washers for the drain and fill bolts though? I was looking at the brake line parts diagram recently and it looks like there aren't any washers between the mating surfaces there either. I'm just wondering how there aren't any leaks? Modern tolerances I guess?
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07-05-2013, 01:15 PM | #57 | |
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You can reuse the plugs, but I replaced them just because. I listed the parts for others who want to replace them in the DIY. |
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07-05-2013, 04:41 PM | #58 | |
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07-05-2013, 05:03 PM | #59 | ||
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You get the cable and the software. You can access DIS to activate the pump I assume. |
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07-05-2013, 06:35 PM | #60 | |
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But here's a pic to show you: Last edited by jjw2331; 07-05-2013 at 06:45 PM.. |
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07-05-2013, 08:57 PM | #61 |
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Yes your correct, I was thinking it was the same as my M5. In that case I would most def get a new plug that comes with the o-ring installed, just like the diff change. Even tho BMW doesn't say to do it, for 7-10 bucks, its worth the change.
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07-07-2013, 06:09 AM | #62 |
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I have Bavarian Technic software and cable. I think it does a similar job with its activation for certain modules. I will check and post back. Thank you.
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07-25-2013, 08:51 PM | #63 |
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Anyone know if this would work?
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/show...ter-e46-e39-z3 |
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09-10-2013, 12:09 PM | #64 |
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After reading through several threads I've decided to go with Redline MTL for my transmission oil change.
Seeing as how I wouldn't be able to get all the old fluid out 100%, would it be an issue if the new Redline MTL is mixed with whatever is leftover of the MTF-LT2? Since both fluids seem to be similar i'm assuming it shouldn't be a problem? Thanks
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09-10-2013, 12:50 PM | #65 | |
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10-17-2013, 10:13 AM | #66 |
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The tranny pump is electric, it activates at a certain temperature of the oil.
After initially filling the tranny to the fill hole. Bolt her up, take her out for a drive until everything is nice and warm or around 20-30mins.. By this time, the electric oil pump for the tranny would have activated. Then you can go back, and recheck the level.
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