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      04-25-2016, 02:08 PM   #45
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Done! Thanks OP for the great write up. Only took 3hrs to complete. That's saving $285/hr
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      04-28-2016, 02:59 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VictorH View Post
Does anyone have the torque value for the thermostat cover cap bolts?
Thanks
throwing a thermostat code @45k miles looking for torque specs as well.
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      07-09-2016, 10:18 PM   #47
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Thanks for the DIY! Did this yesterday. I kept the injectors connected and lifted them up slightly to get enough clearance to remove the tstat housing. Was too lazy to unhook each injector, but it worked out ok!

Turns out old tstat was fine, it was a faulty coolant temp sensor in the tstat housing. Oh well, new one installed.
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      07-12-2016, 07:34 PM   #48
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Thanks for this DIY! I too kept the injectors connected.
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      07-21-2016, 10:26 AM   #49
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For all who have done this, has replacing the t-stat resolved the 2B59 code for you, if you had it prior to the replacement? I'm not getting an SES but when I pull codes as a matter of routine checks or whatever, it is setting this code periodically
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      07-21-2016, 03:04 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
For all who have done this, has replacing the t-stat resolved the 2B59 code for you, if you had it prior to the replacement? I'm not getting an SES but when I pull codes as a matter of routine checks or whatever, it is setting this code periodically
Mine was P0128
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      07-24-2016, 04:46 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richbot View Post
For all who have done this, has replacing the t-stat resolved the 2B59 code for you, if you had it prior to the replacement? I'm not getting an SES but when I pull codes as a matter of routine checks or whatever, it is setting this code periodically
i had code 2b59 and replaced both the thermostat and thermostat sensor. might as well since you are taking the housing apart. the sensor is only an additional 2 minutes of work. replacing both resolved the issue for me.
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      07-25-2016, 11:37 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azndrunk74 View Post
i had code 2b59 and replaced both the thermostat and thermostat sensor. might as well since you are taking the housing apart. the sensor is only an additional 2 minutes of work. replacing both resolved the issue for me.
I also had 2b59 (for months). I replaced both tstat and sensor and it was only the sensor. Buy and replace both "while you're in there."
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      07-25-2016, 12:10 PM   #53
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Good call on the sensor. I wish I would have known about this when I had the car apart.



Oh well, we'll see how long it lasts.
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      07-25-2016, 03:26 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nholmes View Post
Good call on the sensor. I wish I would have known about this when I had the car apart.



Oh well, we'll see how long it lasts.
the tricky thing is that 2B59 doesn't pop a cel. the car will take forever to warm up, defaults to a rich tune, your mpg takes a hit, and you will be down on HP.

i dyno'd my car a few weeks back and it was significantly underpowered compared to my friend's stock m3. the hp curve looked strange up top. i was pretty bummed and eventually traced it back to the thermostat sensor and read up on all the issues it can cause.

after replacing spark plugs, thermostat, thermostat sensor, and throwing in an underdrive pulley my car feels significantly faster than the stock m3 (as it should, since i also have test pipes).
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      07-25-2016, 03:35 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azndrunk74 View Post
the tricky thing is that 2B59 doesn't pop a cel. the car will take forever to warm up, defaults to a rich tune, your mpg takes a hit, and you will be down on HP.

i dyno'd my car a few weeks back and it was significantly underpowered compared to my friend's stock m3. the hp curve looked strange up top. i was pretty bummed and eventually traced it back to the thermostat sensor and read up on all the issues it can cause.

after replacing spark plugs, thermostat, thermostat sensor, and throwing in an underdrive pulley my car feels significantly faster than the stock m3 (as it should, since i also have test pipes).
Good to know, I'll keep this in mind if my car starts doing this
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      08-03-2016, 09:14 AM   #56
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Yeah mine's been popping 2B59 intermittently for months and isn't really exhibiting any other strange behavior or a mileage hit, but it's warm out. Good note on the things the ECU does with that signal I didn't even think about that
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      02-01-2017, 11:45 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrojunky View Post
got a p0128, just did my thermostat.

the above idea for the transfer pump works excellent. i barely dripped anything; i could probably have done this job in my street clothes.

one lesson i learned while doing mine: be sure to lube up the o-rings and/or align the thermostat body very carefully; i cut two o-rings during installation and discovered it only after letting the car warm up and finding a very noticeable leak. got to R&R the intake manifold a second time. that said, having done it twice now, i find R&R of the intake manifold very easy. all hose clamps can be accessed with an ~6' socket extension. the hardest part of the entire job is cleaning off the old gasket material from the housing and block.

I also found a leak after complete reassembly. Apparently it is okay to test without putting the plenum back on, so I will do that next time. I had bought 5 of the small o-rings for the back, but mine looked good so I didnt change them. I fear the issue may be the ones in the front because the housing appears to have sharp edges where the hoses attach from the radiator.

I also did not disassemble the fuel rail, though I tried and was unable to get the screws to budge. Lifting the fuel line that crosses the housing out of the plastic clip was sufficient to allow access. Perhaps it led to the o-ring damage, however. Will try the dish soap recommendation, unless there is another recommended fluid to use. Perhaps a little undiluted coolant?

The hardest part for me was the hose at the top right corner of the plenum. had an impossible time disconnecting and I think i broke part of the release ring on the hose when I reassembled, which may make the second disconnect to find the leak that much more horrible. We'll see.
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      02-01-2017, 07:07 PM   #58
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I did not remove the fuel rail hose either. No leaks so far. New hoses and rear o rings and I spent a good long while cleaning everything before putting it back together

They probably leaked because you didn't replace. My new rings were much more pliable than the old ones
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      02-02-2017, 04:06 PM   #59
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Apology for the double post, but some may read this forum more than the other.

Where do the four O-rings go? My housing only had two of them on the engine block side. on the front side the o-rings were integral to the hoses and were larger.
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      02-02-2017, 06:36 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Locksmythe View Post
Apology for the double post, but some may read this forum more than the other.

Where do the four O-rings go? My housing only had two of them on the engine block side. on the front side the o-rings were integral to the hoses and were larger.
That's all of them
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      02-02-2017, 08:45 PM   #61
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I posted this in another Thermostat thread, but ECS tuning has a Thermostat replacement kit and it has 4 orings. It could be a mistake, but just adding that bit of info to this thread.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...11537836155kt/
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      02-03-2017, 07:01 AM   #62
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D'oh I'm an idiot the two connectors on the back of the tsat housing have one of those o rings at each end. My connecting pipes would not budge from the housing so I didn't even realize they were separate pieces
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      02-05-2017, 11:17 AM   #63
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Turned out the O-rings listed in the other thread are incorrect part numbers. they were way too small.

If anyone has the correct part number I am sure many would appreciate it.
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      02-05-2017, 04:09 PM   #64
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Now I have managed to crack the clamp ring on the idle control valve tube that connects at the top right corner of the plenum. I tried JBWeld plastic epoxy but it didn't hold. That hose is $70... Any other way to get one of those connectors?
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      02-05-2017, 05:05 PM   #65
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Hey guys - I've had an annoying noise that I've been trying to track down and I think it may be my water pump. When I put a stethoscope on the metal pipe that goes into the block from the coolant expansion tank and presumably out to the heater core (its the metal, 3-way pipe), I can hear the whirring noise very well. If I put the scope on pretty much any other part of the engine, I cannot hear it.

I've also started getting the 2B59 code along with the very long warmup times (in excess of 15 mins of 60mph driving). I know the thermostat needs replacing but will gladly replace the pump if it cures the noise I am hearing.

I have posted this video before and people said it sounds like a normal S65, but I have heard a few others in person that do not have this noise. Please take a listen to the video, specifically between 27-43 seconds. It sounds like mechanical gears or something. Could this be noise from the water pump?



Please let me know what you guys think?
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      02-06-2017, 08:24 PM   #66
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Can someone confirm if this is the correct O-ring before I buy them?
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