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      02-23-2019, 01:47 PM   #23
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I wouldn't remove a battery from a car and place it in a trickle charger. A trickle charger is meant to be on the battery in the car. The car is constantly using the battery at a very low draw hence the trickle charger for long storage. Connecting a battery to a trickle charger with no need may damage the battery. Hopefully you have a good trickle charger that references battery current diligently and does not overcharge. Not all "trickle chargers" do this effectively let alone accurately enough for our battery type.
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      02-23-2019, 02:01 PM   #24
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I feel this distinction should be made.
Here is the reason i use a tender for winter storage!

The difference between a trickle charger and a battery tender is that a trickle charger constantly applies a charge, whether the battery is fully charged or not. A battery tender, on the other hand, has circuitry that monitors the battery and charges only when the voltage has dropped below a preset level, thus preventing overcharging and damage.
When it senses the voltage has dropped, a battery tender will resume charging. Because of this a battery tender can be left connected indefinitely. 
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      02-24-2019, 07:49 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJAGZ View Post
This is my exact problem!! I even burn a ton more gas! It's currently sitting in storage for the winter season but I want it fixed before spring time roles out. What exactly was the part?? How long did it take to change??The P161d calls though for an issue through the bank 2 side but it's a very generic code that can mean multiple things... are they related to which you mentioned with bank 1?

I'm also wondering If it could be the low pressure fuel sensor??

I dont have a bmw dealership, nor a shop reliable enough to do the work so I've been doing everything myself. I guess this is what I get for getting a car that's difficult to service in a smaller city
The shop scanned and found this stored in DME: 271B VANOS control bank exhaust. This can be caused by internal engine damage to cylinder heads, clogged VANOS filters, or failing VANOS solenoid valves. I went with the replacing solenoid valve (on the affected cam shaft) option first since it was the least expensive. It seems to have done the trick as I no longer have issues with CLE when starting/driving the car in cold weather.
Part number is #11 36 7 843 117 and it was in the low $300 at my shop.
Good luck!
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      04-25-2019, 01:03 PM   #26
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Hey M Brothers,

Same issue here, P161D all the same dash lights. Only difference was i had no charger/tender on the battery, just disconnected the neg terminal and left it alone for 4 1/2 months.

Hooked it up and it ran fine to move some of my cars around, once i shut it off and restarted it SHTF.

BTW when i started it it wasn't even that cold maybe 12-14 deg Celsius, or 55F.

Its an 08 E93 M3 stick with about 115,000 km.
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      05-03-2019, 09:21 PM   #27
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Exact same issue here... car was stored for winter but started every month. Brand new oem TAs in january 2019 and now P161D bugging the car.

Very strange as the car fires right up in the morning despite the cold weather.
I can drive it as much as I want without issues but if I shut it off, p161d cel will appear even without starting the car.



As anyone else fixed the problem with a new solenoid valve(s) ?
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      03-28-2020, 08:19 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teknically View Post
Exact same issue here... car was stored for winter but started every month. Brand new oem TAs in january 2019 and now P161D bugging the car.

Very strange as the car fires right up in the morning despite the cold weather.
I can drive it as much as I want without issues but if I shut it off, p161d cel will appear even without starting the car.



As anyone else fixed the problem with a new solenoid valve(s) ?
Hey Tek, have you managed to fix this issue?
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      08-07-2020, 09:21 AM   #29
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That issue went away until a few weeks ago. Now it happens every single time I shut the car off and restart it

My mechanic trace back the problem to the throttle body assembly, the linkage is very hard to operate even after cleaning and lubricating.

This could also explain why the previous owner had to install a new actuator every 12-18 months...


We are planning to replace all throttle bodies, shaft, arm and what not.

I'm a bit worried as I can't find any info or stories about anyone who went through that, I'll see what happen I guess ! Will report back
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