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[STALKER]

Anyone using them long term? Feedback?

Im putting together a stud kit, and wanted to know the benefit of these over traditional open ended lugs from Turner. Going to be using Turners 75mm studs.

[E90///M3`]

Originally Posted by STALKER

Anyone using them long term? Feedback?

Im putting together a stud kit, and wanted to know the benefit of these over traditional open ended lugs from Turner. Going to be using Turners 75mm studs.

i love my Kics R40 Open-endeds... i use them with Turner 90mm studs.

[STALKER]

Originally Posted by E90///M3`

i love my Kics R40 Open-endeds... i use them with Turner 90mm studs.

How often do you change your wheels?
Thanks.

[E90///M3`]

Originally Posted by STALKER

How often do you change your wheels?
Thanks.

honestly i haven't been to the track as often as i'd like but i've changed them twice at the track and did it in no time... quickly and efficiently. if that helps at all

[Martin_D]

turner race lugs are best. all lugs get beat up but they hold up track day after track day.

we are talking 20 track days in a month with wheel swaps during and between sessions.

used them with 90mm studs...

[aus]

A good thing about the KICS is they'll cover and protect the threads of the studs with daily driving.
Good call on the Turner studs.

The real issue is how do you install the studs? I've read all kinds of techniques.

[Martin_D]

red threadlocker on the end of the studs, screw the turner studs in using a 5mm allen key socket, use 3/8 drive torque wrench and set the torque to the same spec as your lugs.

go around and double check after wheels are installed. repeat every track season...

it is simple, should take 10 minutes per corner while drinking

[KM3]

Not quite - you want to torque the stud to the hub at 16 ft-lb. You torque the nut to the stud at factory spec. Turner has instructions on their website.

Originally Posted by Martin_D

red threadlocker on the end of the studs, screw the turner studs in using a 5mm allen key socket, use 3/8 drive torque wrench and set the torque to the same spec as your lugs.

go around and double check after wheels are installed. repeat every track season...

it is simple, should take 10 minutes per corner while drinking

[aus]

That's what I'm talking about. Bimmerworld says to torque to the nut torque setting, while most say to torque to anywhere from 16-30 ft-lbs. My buddy did this with red Locktite but got nervous when most of his studs unscrewed with the Allen wrench after a session on the track. Thats not suppose to happened. It's suppose to be very difficult to remove even with the double nut method of removal.

[PINHEAD]

Just screw it in hand tight with threadlocker red. If you do it right, it won't come out without some torch. If it does, you did it wrong.

[Martin_D]

Originally Posted by KM3

Not quite - you want to torque the stud to the hub at 16 ft-lb. You torque the nut to the stud at factory spec. Turner has instructions on their website.

i have done my method for the last 10+ years and never had an issue...

i check all studs between sessions, torque them and torque the lugs. never once had an issue, will keep doing my method as it works.

dont give a shit what the instructions say, i recommend to others what has worked from experience.

[kitw]

It depends on the stud manufacturer. Please follow the instructions that come with your studs, not generic intarweb directions

[flipm3]

I've been using R40s on my E46 M3 for the past 3 years with track days during the season. I swap wheels several times a day during autocross and track days. I remove wheels when cleaning the car. I swap wheels during the winter.

During the winter, I do use some cheap Muteki lug nuts. Since these lugnuts are rather expensive, I don't want to risk them getting chewed up by the salt on our streets.

These were all used on 75mm and 90mm Turner Studs.

[Beedub]

i have the tuner 75mm and kics r26 lugs in black chrome... awesome setup, it really is.

Changing wheels, is now so fast, i can whip these on and off in no time, the studs/nuts have seen numerous trackdays and still look great, the kics r25 lugs nuts torque down real nice with the rotating bead, these things still look great after numerous on and off installs, my car is however a dry use weekend car so, i cant comment on road salt ect ect.

this setup also drops some weight which is always nice on a rotating, unsprung part..
Re the install, i followed turner's instructions to the letter and so far so good, i do however, check reguarly and re-torque the nuts, track use can see them loosen slightly.
This is probably one of my favourite mods, so practical, and on top of everything else, it looks great also, i love that i can fit upto 12mm spacers, i used a 12mm on the front for BBK clearance :-)





These lugs are seeing alot of HP and again still performing perfectly

[STALKER]

Whats the diff between the R40 and the R26 models?

[Jaypod]

Originally Posted by STALKER

Whats the diff between the R40 and the R26 models?

The R40 are longer. My R40 basically cover all the thread on the stud and leave the tip exposed some. I assume the R26 would leave some of the thread exposed. (at least on my HRE P40 set up)

[STALKER]

Originally Posted by Jaypod

The R40 are longer. My R40 basically cover all the thread on the stud and leave the tip exposed some. I assume the R26 would leave some of the thread exposed. (at least on my HRE P40 set up)

Thanks.
Thats kinda what I thought after googling it.

[Beedub]

yeh r26 is slightly shorter...... i prefur the the shorter wheel nut....

definatly a worthwhile mod ;-) the m3 gts has stud/lug from factory....

[aus]

Can you use the longer R40's with a 12mm spacer?

[flipm3]

Originally Posted by aus

Can you use the longer R40's with a 12mm spacer?

As long as your stud is at least 75mm then you should be safe. Both lug nuts should give you enough rotations on the what is left on the 75mm stud and 12mm spacer.

[LateBraking]

I got the R40 REVO's, those are the R40's with caps for the open end so you can turn them into a closed end temporarily. I would get the R40's and not the REVO's. They're not worth the extra cash. I lost my closed end caps at Streets of Willow when the wind blew away the ziplock bag that was holding them.

Anyways, with 5 track days and over 20 installations/removals, they've held up fine. The finish isn't holding up 100%, as the paint shows some scratching and marring after multiple installs/removals, but they have remained structurally sound. I can't say I like their lock nut though, it's a bitch to use due to it's design. I wish the head of the lock nut (the geared portion) went deeper, so the key could grip it better.

Overall, a good nut. I did end up switching to true closed end Mutekis for track days as a lot of dirt and crap was getting in through the top of the open end, and I don't use spacers. I also found out that the Mutekis were balanced when I turned four of them upside down on their rounded end and they stood up perfectly (not important, but neat). Plus, the geared portion of the Mutekis are deeper as I just mentioned, so they are a lot easier to install and remove. Plus they're cheaper, but still a good quality nut.

The R40's sure look prettier though. Plus, I like the 2 piece design of the R40, which helps prevent wheel scratching. For my track wheels though, I really don't give a shit about scratching, so I'm okay with using the Mutekis. I tend to now use the R40's for my daily set.

[Alekshop]

I have been using Bimmerworld studs/lugs and they work great ! They don't look as cool as r40 but they work excellent !