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      03-22-2022, 04:10 PM   #595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkyblue View Post
I read through nearly all the pages and there seems to be a consensus that the bass loss issue exists only for E9X M3 users with the Individual Audio System (only premium audio option available in the US).
Not sure how you arrived at that conclusion. Plenty of users with hi-fi are reporting the issue, including myself.

Considering that the M3 in the US market only has hifi or individual audio, that means nearly everybody.
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      03-22-2022, 04:41 PM   #596
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Just thought I would share....the other night my phone wasn't pairing up with the CarPlay. After what felt like an hour of troubleshooting I went to the OEM CD track interface and started cycling through tracks (As if I was skipping to next track on an actual CD). I can't recall but when I hit Track 2 or Track 3 and the CarPlay mated, I had very minimal bass loss. Perhaps try playing around with the Track selection? Curious if anybody else has data points on this.
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      03-22-2022, 08:26 PM   #597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qskid28 View Post
Just thought I would share....the other night my phone wasn't pairing up with the CarPlay. After what felt like an hour of troubleshooting I went to the OEM CD track interface and started cycling through tracks (As if I was skipping to next track on an actual CD). I can't recall but when I hit Track 2 or Track 3 and the CarPlay mated, I had very minimal bass loss. Perhaps try playing around with the Track selection? Curious if anybody else has data points on this.
That would be strange since it seems to be a problem with the dsp chip itself
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      03-22-2022, 10:13 PM   #598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
Not sure how you arrived at that conclusion. Plenty of users with hi-fi are reporting the issue, including myself.

Considering that the M3 in the US market only has hifi or individual audio, that means nearly everybody.
I wasn't referring to HiFi audio which is the base audio system in E9X M3's. The amp in the HiFi system is connected from the CIC headunit via a low-level analog signal.

I'm referring specifically to those on the non-M E9X or E8X platforms with Logic7/Harman Kardon which has the the CIC <> Amp connected via MOST.

Yes, I am aware the Individual Audio System in the E9X M3 is connected from the CIC <> Amp via MOST.

From all the posts, I've noticed only E9X M3 Individual Audio System users have complained about bass issues. There have been many non-M guys who said they did not notice any bass loss.
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      03-22-2022, 10:40 PM   #599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkyblue View Post
I wasn't referring to HiFi audio which is the base audio system in E9X M3's. The amp in the HiFi system is connected from the CIC headunit via a low-level analog signal.

I'm referring specifically to those on the non-M E9X or E8X platforms with Logic7/Harman Kardon which has the the CIC <> Amp connected via MOST.

Yes, I am aware the Individual Audio System in the E9X M3 is connected from the CIC <> Amp via MOST.

From all the posts, I've noticed only E9X M3 Individual Audio System users have complained about bass issues.
While we can't disprove that theory, I'd say the sample base isn't quite equal. This post is on the e9x m3 board, thus you don't really get a good sample base of logic 7/harmon kardon users. Skews the data massively. The issue may very well be over there as well, and I'd be surprised if it wasn't.

Last edited by drwankel; 03-22-2022 at 10:46 PM..
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      03-23-2022, 09:52 AM   #600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
While we can't disprove that theory, I'd say the sample base isn't quite equal. This post is on the e9x m3 board, thus you don't really get a good sample base of logic 7/harmon kardon users. Skews the data massively. The issue may very well be over there as well, and I'd be surprised if it wasn't.
I am going to be installing this on a 335 with the HK system. Since I'm still a lurker will let you know how it goes.

Will probably be a few weeks at this rate though since I've occupied all my time with dad projects in prep a baby that's 6 weeks out. Less time left to tear the car apart especially now that my garage is full of junk.

Will let folks know how it seems when I get it installed.
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      03-24-2022, 06:51 PM   #601
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Hi All

I installed one of these in my F10 and I cannot get the iDrive (CIC) controller to work.

I have pushed the thing in as far and hard as it will go. I 100% guarantee it cannot go any further, i have done actual physical damage to the male plug on the supplied loom trying to get this thing to push in further lol (broke off the side tab).

I've re-done the connection maybe 15 times now, making sure to push hard and yes there is an audible click. Both connectors (oem to harness and harness to idrive controller) are as far as in as I can get them to go.

The screen powers up and there is audio from the radio, but the iDrive controller just refuses to work.

I have tried different dipswitch settings (all off, and with the switch set to "F01 model") - rebooting the radio each time. No change in behaviour.

I have reconnected all the factory OEM wiring to how it was prior to install to ensure the actual iDrive controller works - it is fine when i set it back to stock.

Apart from "push it in harder", which I promise is not possible without completely destroying something - is there anything else I can try to get this thing working?
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      03-24-2022, 08:32 PM   #602
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I cannot emphasize enough the level of force required to get that connector to seat properly. I legitimately thought I was going to break it. It was less of a snap into place and more of a POP.

Your symptoms scream of that connector not being in all the way on the idrive controller.
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      03-24-2022, 09:10 PM   #603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
I cannot emphasize enough the level of force required to get that connector to seat properly. I legitimately thought I was going to break it. It was less of a snap into place and more of a POP.

Your symptoms scream of that connector not being in all the way on the idrive controller.
I second this. Make sure you hear the POP/CLICK.
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      03-24-2022, 11:10 PM   #604
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i actually have broken it trying to push it in lol

it's not unusable but i cannot see how i can get this thing in there any harder without destroying it completely.

i just went and had another go at it, there is no way this thing can go any further in. When you measure it against the bottom of the idrive unit - the amount protruding is the same as when it is inserted. It is definitely bottoming out in there. Itís also the same length as the oem plug, and that protrudes the same amount when inserted and working.

Is there something that else in the chain I can check?

Perhaps my harness is faulty or something. I have not had a response from me12volt yet unfortunately
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Last edited by ahheadlock; 03-24-2022 at 11:47 PM..
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      03-25-2022, 12:34 AM   #605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahheadlock View Post
i actually have broken it trying to push it in lol

it's not unusable but i cannot see how i can get this thing in there any harder without destroying it completely.

i just went and had another go at it, there is no way this thing can go any further in. When you measure it against the bottom of the idrive unit - the amount protruding is the same as when it is inserted. It is definitely bottoming out in there. It’s also the same length as the oem plug, and that protrudes the same amount when inserted and working.

Is there something that else in the chain I can check?

Perhaps my harness is faulty or something. I have not had a response from me12volt yet unfortunately
The connection we are referring is the female connector in the i-Drive cable that came with the Mr12Volt P2000 unit. So your blue connector from the original harness goes inside that female connector. That's where you need to hear that POP/CLICK.

ps-> To be honest I don't remember for sure, but I think that's where I had the problem. Maybe someone else can verify is that is the connection.
ps#2-> Actually, maybe it was the connection to the i-Drive module, I just can't remember. Might not be a bad idea to try forcing the connection I mentioned above. Good luck.

Last edited by djan9el; 03-25-2022 at 12:44 AM..
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      03-25-2022, 05:25 AM   #606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djan9el View Post
The connection we are referring is the female connector in the i-Drive cable that came with the Mr12Volt P2000 unit. So your blue connector from the original harness goes inside that female connector. That's where you need to hear that POP/CLICK.

ps-> To be honest I don't remember for sure, but I think that's where I had the problem. Maybe someone else can verify is that is the connection.
ps#2-> Actually, maybe it was the connection to the i-Drive module, I just can't remember. Might not be a bad idea to try forcing the connection I mentioned above. Good luck.
yeah have tried that also, although not with as much focus as the actual idrive unit. i'll try again tomorrow and see how much more i can jam the oem idrive plug in the harness, but i am fairly confident i had that in there as far as it could go also.

-checked it-

that is definitely in there as far as it can go also. checked the connector at the top of the chain too, where it connects to the harness that goes to the p2000 box. that is fine too.

I haven't coded anything yet, my car does not have the stacker. Is coding required before the iDrive controller works perhaps?

so far no response from using the contact form on the website - i dont suppose anyone has an alternate contact for support?

Last edited by ahheadlock; 03-25-2022 at 09:44 PM..
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      03-26-2022, 03:56 AM   #607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahheadlock View Post
yeah have tried that also, although not with as much focus as the actual idrive unit. i'll try again tomorrow and see how much more i can jam the oem idrive plug in the harness, but i am fairly confident i had that in there as far as it could go also.

-checked it-

that is definitely in there as far as it can go also. checked the connector at the top of the chain too, where it connects to the harness that goes to the p2000 box. that is fine too.

I haven't coded anything yet, my car does not have the stacker. Is coding required before the iDrive controller works perhaps?

so far no response from using the contact form on the website - i dont suppose anyone has an alternate contact for support?
You can send a WhatsApp to support on +852 9718 0288 or the link from their main page using a mobile. They have always responded within 48 hours. I also did not have the cd stack unit. Had to code the cd changer to mp3 to be able to see and switch to mr12volt in the idrive menu but the idrive controller worked fine to control the stock system before I coded that.

Mine was hard to push in all the way but did get a click once inserted. I would suspect a cable fault if plugs are def in all the way. Iíve installed in 3 cars now and this is been a hard push in every one of them. Feels in but it isnt fully home. For me it was the connector that went into the bottom of the CIC controller.

If your stock idrive system control is not working with the piggyback cable inserted but does when directly connected then it is most likely to be the cable or connector not inserted fully. This is just an extension cable with piggyback tails to mr12volt so stock should be fine with no coding.

One thing to test is if you leave the piggy back lead connected between the car and the controller but leave the connection out of the mr12volt unit does your stock system work?

If not then will be the piggy back cable or connectors between the car harness and the CIC controller. Meter out the cable and check for continuity and potential shorts between the connectors and terminals. Use something (non conductive) to measure the depth of the connector socket (ie wooden toothpick) and mark the plug at the same depth to check correct insertion on each connector.

If it does work then perhaps mr12volt unit is faulty, but again check the connections carefully. Inspect the harness thoroughly for any damage to the cables.

Hope that makes sense and helps.
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      03-26-2022, 05:33 AM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkyblue View Post
I wasn't referring to HiFi audio which is the base audio system in E9X M3's. The amp in the HiFi system is connected from the CIC headunit via a low-level analog signal.

I'm referring specifically to those on the non-M E9X or E8X platforms with Logic7/Harman Kardon which has the the CIC <> Amp connected via MOST.

Yes, I am aware the Individual Audio System in the E9X M3 is connected from the CIC <> Amp via MOST.

From all the posts, I've noticed only E9X M3 Individual Audio System users have complained about bass issues. There have been many non-M guys who said they did not notice any bass loss.
Unfortunately this seems to be an issue with all setups, wife has e92 330i HK audio setup. I have a 335i individual audio both are UK factory spec cars. Both have bass issues using mr12volt. I listen to music with more bass so bothers me more. Can be improved with the EQ but still not perfect.

For a friend I have also installed into a 320 with hifi. Still lacks bass.

I find it more noticeable on the individual audio but this is my main car so perhaps that is why.

Everything else is great and the convenience of CarPlay outweighs the bass issue. I will however be replacing the mr12volt unit in mine once the Updated DSP one is released.
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      03-27-2022, 11:38 PM   #609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbav View Post
Unfortunately this seems to be an issue with all setups, wife has e92 330i HK audio setup. I have a 335i individual audio both are UK factory spec cars. Both have bass issues using mr12volt. I listen to music with more bass so bothers me more. Can be improved with the EQ but still not perfect.

For a friend I have also installed into a 320 with hifi. Still lacks bass.

I find it more noticeable on the individual audio but this is my main car so perhaps that is why.

Everything else is great and the convenience of CarPlay outweighs the bass issue. I will however be replacing the mr12volt unit in mine once the Updated DSP one is released.
Looks like they will release the new version soon, noticed that they have released the DSP version for Porsche!!
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      03-28-2022, 12:47 AM   #610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbav View Post
Unfortunately this seems to be an issue with all setups, wife has e92 330i HK audio setup. I have a 335i individual audio both are UK factory spec cars. Both have bass issues using mr12volt. I listen to music with more bass so bothers me more. Can be improved with the EQ but still not perfect.

For a friend I have also installed into a 320 with hifi. Still lacks bass.

I find it more noticeable on the individual audio but this is my main car so perhaps that is why.

Everything else is great and the convenience of CarPlay outweighs the bass issue. I will however be replacing the mr12volt unit in mine once the Updated DSP one is released.
Thank you for confirming that I was incorrect.

You saved me $$$ and time, as I was going to try it myself.

I will wait for the updated version with the DSP fix.
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      03-28-2022, 01:58 AM   #611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdrxseven View Post
Looks like they will release the new version soon, noticed that they have released the DSP version for Porsche!!
Seems as the new CIC version (P2000 CICMD) is available for pre-order for $429.

Pre order only, delivery in May 2022
Brand: Mr12Volt
Model: P2000 CICMD

The brand new Mr12Volt P2000 MD series
has just gotten better now with a built-in highly customizable 15 bar DSP equalizer!

https://www.mr12volt.com/collections...-interface-dsp

Wonder if they will offer a discount for those of us that purchased the original and want to buy this one with DSP.
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      03-28-2022, 02:16 AM   #612
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Found a new disclaimer under their compatibility information.

*** A CD changer (CDC) must have been installed, or the CDC feature has been enabled in order to use this product

Guess the coding was always needed after all (if no CD changer installed from factory).
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      03-28-2022, 02:35 AM   #613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djan9el View Post
Seems as the new CIC version (P2000 CICMD) is available for pre-order for $429.

Pre order only, delivery in May 2022
Brand: Mr12Volt
Model: P2000 CICMD

The brand new Mr12Volt P2000 MD series
has just gotten better now with a built-in highly customizable 15 bar DSP equalizer!

https://www.mr12volt.com/collections...-interface-dsp

Wonder if they will offer a discount for those of us that purchased the original and want to buy this one with DSP.
Iíve just placed an order for the new DSP version. Will be delivered in may. Been on with support and they will be working out some sort of promotion for returning customers. Iím just looking forward to the arrival and getting the bass backÖ
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      03-28-2022, 03:22 AM   #614
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbav View Post
Iíve just placed an order for the new DSP version. Will be delivered in may. Been on with support and they will be working out some sort of promotion for returning customers. Iím just looking forward to the arrival and getting the bass backÖ
I have just contact Mr12volt support, they advised me to a new order with the same name I used to place the old order#. Seems like they will announce discount promotion for comeback customers but they are also putting some sort of restrictions to prove comeback customers'
Can't wait to get my new DSP version!!
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      03-28-2022, 03:37 AM   #615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdrxseven View Post
I have just contact Mr12volt support, they advised me to a new order with the same name I used to place the old order#. Seems like they will announce discount promotion for comeback customers but they are also putting some sort of restrictions to prove comeback customers'
Can't wait to get my new DSP version!!
Placed my order too. Support Service confirmed they will be announcing a discount for comeback customers. Make sure to place the new order with the name you used in your last order.
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      03-28-2022, 06:12 AM   #616
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Quote:
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Placed my order too. Support Service confirmed they will be announcing a discount for comeback customers. Make sure to place the new order with the name you used in your last order.
Support also confirmed that the cabling is the same as the p2000 lights version so should also be a simple swap out.
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