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      05-18-2022, 10:56 AM   #815
Evgenyproject
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I have a problem that Siri does not respond to the voice button. When I code SVS it works in the CIC system. When I code away SVS, Siri still does not work.
Does anyone know what the problem is here?

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      05-18-2022, 11:57 AM   #816
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Doesn't Hey Siri work like OK Google?

I always use that vs trying to use a trigger button or the UI.
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      05-18-2022, 12:01 PM   #817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
Just curious- are you getting this with the DSP set to flat? General p2000 volume is at the default of 30?

I can't say Ive experienced anything like this, but if you push the DSP settings too far you can get some distortion which might be what you are describing. Difficult to say without hearing it.
It sounds like a static click that I can hear, it is easier to hear with audible and is random times between clicks. Donít get it when using idrive native.

Iím going to replace the most cable over the weekend and see if that helps. I didnít replace this when I fitted the new unit.

Didnít get it on the P2000 light version I had before.

I will also contact support and see what they have to say.
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      05-18-2022, 04:56 PM   #818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Doesn't Hey Siri work like OK Google?

I always use that vs trying to use a trigger button or the UI.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdott View Post
Doesn't Hey Siri work like OK Google?

I always use that vs trying to use a trigger button or the UI.
Hey Siri works fine. But calling Siri via SVS button does not work.
Can someone, where the SVS button works, provide me the TRC file from the CIC for comparison?!

Thanks
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      05-18-2022, 10:53 PM   #819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2009550iMSport View Post
I think I might actually know of a solution for this. It’s not guaranteed to work, but I’m almost certain it will.

It would cost around $200.

Basically, there’s this 10-pin LVDS to 4-pin LVDS adapter that you can buy. I know because I had to buy one for when I retrofitted an android touchscreen to my old Mercedes E Class. It looks like this:




Here’s the link:

https://m.aliexpress.com/i/4000893050238.html

Mercedes, BMW, Audi, they all use the same basic architecture, even down to the quadlok for the head units. Its marketed as for Mercedes, but I see no reason why this adapter wouldn’t work with BMW as well. I imagine they only market it for Mercedes because the aftermarket head units for COMAND don’t usually have different style display inputs, so they offer this adapter instead. It saves on manufacturing costs.

My theory is that you could use this adapter with a CIC display. And then you would have a higher resolution screen for CarPlay!

You would then use this adapter to connect to the Mr12Volt’s LVDS cable that would normally plug directly into the back of the head unit. You need this because the LVDS on this 10-pin to 4-pin adapter has a male head, when you need female, like on the back of the CIC head unit.



Link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FAKRA-HSD-L...-127632-2357-0

And then of course you’d need to source a CIC display. There are many on eBay for under $100.

You would be ordering a CIC version of the Mr12Volt kit for this to work. I see no reason why it wouldn’t work with CCC considering the only difference in the two is the display wiring.

*Disclaimer: I am not responsible if this doesn’t work, I’m just an idea man. Try this at your own risk!
So, I have the CCC version P2000, and it is working very, very well, but I would like to figure out a way to improve the display resolution.

I am wondering if the solution presented above could work by connecting the Mr12Volt LVDS output (side that would go to CCC display) to the adapter above, and then connecting the output from the adapter to the upgraded CIC display? If so, then there would be no need to source the CIC version of Mr12Volt (or also no need to yank the head-unit again, depending on where you may have mounted Mr12Volt...)

I guess the key question is, are the CCC and CIC displays plug-n-play swappable, except for the 10pin versus 4pin LVDS connection. OR, are there other connection differences between them?

Anybody 100% know the answer?

The challenge I see with the original solution presented above is that it seems mr12volt CCC version and CIC version are different in regard to the harness. CIC version doesn't change it, and just connects via the iDrive controller, while the CCC version has the harness adapter bundle which is a PITA to fit back inside the car with the head-unit.

If I were to be able to just update my CCC version screen based on my thinking above, I would not have to touch anything to install except to remove my glove-box and cup holders, (and of course the display). This is by far preferable. But it all depends on ONLY the LVDS cable connection being different between CCC and CIC display screens. (And the adapter mentioned above working.)

Has anybody done anything like this? I'd love to have a higher resolution display, but don't want to go thru the hassle of CIC retrofit and then also ordering CIC version of Mr12Volt. I'd also REALLY like to avoid having to yank the head-unit again if not doing CIC retro.

(BTW, I can't see doing CIC retro without also replacing the iDrive controller....which means trying to find matching center console trim that will fit the new(er) CIC controller.... I LIKE my trim (wood), and definitely want it to match like stock (and the other trim in the car.) My understanding that it is a very difficult challenge because the new CIC can't fit into the CCC controller existing trim cutout. Bimmertech even told me they cannot match the trim with their ...ahem...$1800 CIC retrofit package, and I would need to source myself, or use generic trim panel they could provide. That is a complete deal-breaker for me...especially for $1800!)

Here is a (poor) ASCI pic of the setup:

Head-Unit <--LVDS 10pin--> P2000 <--LVDS 10pin cable (to display)--> <LVDS 10 to 4pin Adapter> CIC display.


Finny
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      05-19-2022, 01:19 AM   #820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finbarr.cnaipe View Post
So, I have the CCC version P2000, and it is working very, very well, but I would like to figure out a way to improve the display resolution.

I am wondering if the solution presented above could work by connecting the Mr12Volt LVDS output (side that would go to CCC display) to the adapter above, and then connecting the output from the adapter to the upgraded CIC display? If so, then there would be no need to source the CIC version of Mr12Volt (or also no need to yank the head-unit again, depending on where you may have mounted Mr12Volt...)

I guess the key question is, are the CCC and CIC displays plug-n-play swappable, except for the 10pin versus 4pin LVDS connection. OR, are there other connection differences between them?

Anybody 100% know the answer?

The challenge I see with the original solution presented above is that it seems mr12volt CCC version and CIC version are different in regard to the harness. CIC version doesn't change it, and just connects via the iDrive controller, while the CCC version has the harness adapter bundle which is a PITA to fit back inside the car with the head-unit.

If I were to be able to just update my CCC version screen based on my thinking above, I would not have to touch anything to install except to remove my glove-box and cup holders, (and of course the display). This is by far preferable. But it all depends on ONLY the LVDS cable connection being different between CCC and CIC display screens. (And the adapter mentioned above working.)

Has anybody done anything like this? I'd love to have a higher resolution display, but don't want to go thru the hassle of CIC retrofit and then also ordering CIC version of Mr12Volt. I'd also REALLY like to avoid having to yank the head-unit again if not doing CIC retro.

(BTW, I can't see doing CIC retro without also replacing the iDrive controller....which means trying to find matching center console trim that will fit the new(er) CIC controller.... I LIKE my trim (wood), and definitely want it to match like stock (and the other trim in the car.) My understanding that it is a very difficult challenge because the new CIC can't fit into the CCC controller existing trim cutout. Bimmertech even told me they cannot match the trim with their ...ahem...$1800 CIC retrofit package, and I would need to source myself, or use generic trim panel they could provide. That is a complete deal-breaker for me...especially for $1800!)

Here is a (poor) ASCI pic of the setup:

Head-Unit <--LVDS 10pin--> P2000 <--LVDS 10pin cable (to display)--> <LVDS 10 to 4pin Adapter> CIC display.


Finny
I don't think that would work. There is a major point you are not considering. Assume for a moment that the entire chain worked- how would the CCC version of the P2000 know to output a different (higher) display resolution? It's not a user configurable option.

If you want a higher res screen with the P2000, a CIC retrofit is your only option.
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      05-19-2022, 08:56 AM   #821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raphc View Post
Nope. Mine doesn't work either
Would be great if it did as it is always a bit of a race to pick up the call with the idrive controller before it rings out
I use the following on Android Auto:
ďHey Google, answer call.Ē
ďHey Google, reject call.Ē
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      05-19-2022, 11:29 AM   #822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frN54 View Post
Hi I am new here on m3post.
I have a 2012 335is from USA but live in Germany.
I bought the Mr12Volt box 2 weeks ago.

unfortunately I have heavy problems with my mr12volt CIC box.
The device ran for 3-4 days without problems. Recently crashed 1-2 times Carplay and my speedometer or instrument cluster went completely crazy - it went all the lights on and off. The error code stored was CDA8. I was able to fix the problem only after disconnecting the battery.
The car was now parked for 2 days and now my Idrive controller doesn't work anymore - after about 10-15 min the same problem again, CDA8 error code. Instrument cluster lights everything.
I checked the wiring of the idrive - all ok

I can not use the box so unfortunately.

I have contacted Mr12Volt support but no response so far. Does anyone have similar problems?
I am having these same issues intermittently, where it seems like the interior CAN bus is going down. My install was working for about 2 weeks and now I have a persistent CAN fault. The P2000 box is still powered on and displaying but the iDrive knob doesn't work as well as a bunch of other gauge cluster/interior lighting functions. I know this seems to be the iDrive controller connection in most of the cases that have been posted but I have checked the connection here as well as the connections in the iDrive splitter and haven't found any issues. It makes me think the bus is going down on the P2000 box side.

Is someone able to measure the resistance at the iDrive splitter between the purple and black/purple wires? Are there any additional pictures of how far the iDrive connector should be seated? I'm fairly confident I have it fully seated, it looks like the couple pictures posted earlier in the thread.

Last edited by Biwster26; 05-19-2022 at 12:05 PM..
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      05-19-2022, 03:11 PM   #823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biwster26 View Post
I am having these same issues intermittently, where it seems like the interior CAN bus is going down. My install was working for about 2 weeks and now I have a persistent CAN fault. The P2000 box is still powered on and displaying but the iDrive knob doesn't work as well as a bunch of other gauge cluster/interior lighting functions. I know this seems to be the iDrive controller connection in most of the cases that have been posted but I have checked the connection here as well as the connections in the iDrive splitter and haven't found any issues. It makes me think the bus is going down on the P2000 box side.

Is someone able to measure the resistance at the iDrive splitter between the purple and black/purple wires? Are there any additional pictures of how far the iDrive connector should be seated? I'm fairly confident I have it fully seated, it looks like the couple pictures posted earlier in the thread.


I have removed my p2000 and unfortunately the K-CAN errors are still present. I believe that a control unit or component has been broken.
I sometimes get the K-CAN errors cleared, but after a drive they are usually back.
I never had such problems before the p2000.

I'll try to systematically remove the components that are related to the p2000, clear the errors and see if they come back.

really annoying because the p2000 worked well
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      05-20-2022, 06:25 AM   #824
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I'm wringing my hands thinking about whether or not to pay the early adopter tax and re-buy it for the new version. Is it finally perfect?
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      05-20-2022, 03:14 PM   #825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frN54 View Post
I have removed my p2000 and unfortunately the K-CAN errors are still present. I believe that a control unit or component has been broken.
I sometimes get the K-CAN errors cleared, but after a drive they are usually back.
I never had such problems before the p2000.

I'll try to systematically remove the components that are related to the p2000, clear the errors and see if they come back.

really annoying because the p2000 worked well
I'm having some weird problems too, with the new P2000!

Dash light on 4x4, ABS, brake, Emerg EWS - this is after changing the parking condition from gear position to parking key, not sure if related.

I locked the car, waited for several minutes, then the error seems to have gone away on startup. Then it came back again within half a mile of driving.

I changed the parking condition back to gear position, then parked it overnight. I drove for a while today and it seemed ok, but who knows. Will update the thread if I find anything. Might be time to get a canbus debugger or something.
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      05-20-2022, 03:48 PM   #826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylim View Post
I'm having some weird problems too, with the new P2000!

Dash light on 4x4, ABS, brake, Emerg EWS - this is after changing the parking condition from gear position to parking key, not sure if related.

I locked the car, waited for several minutes, then the error seems to have gone away on startup. Then it came back again within half a mile of driving.

I changed the parking condition back to gear position, then parked it overnight. I drove for a while today and it seemed ok, but who knows. Will update the thread if I find anything. Might be time to get a canbus debugger or something.

I have uploaded a video of my mistake.
As I said, the p2000 box is now removed and the error is still present.

There are many K-CAN errors in the error memory, delete sometimes works.
have you already read your error memory from the car?

https://youtube.com/shorts/Lm5HBe_NIfM?feature=share
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      05-21-2022, 07:11 AM   #827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NA_E92 View Post
I'm wringing my hands thinking about whether or not to pay the early adopter tax and re-buy it for the new version. Is it finally perfect?
I just installed the DSP version and am now on my third box. Started with Andream AUX style, then Mr12Volt P2000, now Mr12Volt P2000 DSP.

It's still early but what I can say is that the newest iteration is noticeably faster, sounds like 10x better on my 2012 E82 1 series with Harmon Kardon sound. The bass is rich, extremely deep and low, much more detailed, and 3D sounding. Also it's not just the bass that has improved. The mids are more clear as well. Overall it just sounds more detailed and scary good!

The P2000 was great, but the DSP is what we have been waiting for. I had to bring my equalizer back to middle on all settings. What I had before was trying to compensate for lack of bass and sounded way too deep.

One thing to note for E82 guys: we literally only have one place to put this box and that's under the passenger vent with a few zip ties and foam padding. The newer version fits perfectly now with the extra 6" LVDS cable. Nothing will block the HVAC vent flap now. Just make sure the cables are clear of the cross bar where the glove box grabs on while re-installing. Any one in the Toronto area, I can help with the install.

In my setup I extended the micro SD slot with one of those cheap ribbon extenders so I can access the port from the glovebox. With E82 you can easily get to the box for updates by just removing the four trims on the passenger side (side panel next to mucket, passenger vent, under glove box HVAC panel, small glovebox panel on right). I would say the ribbon extender may not be needed.

The new LVDS on the DSP version is properly shielded on the end that plugs into the MMI. I doubt there will be any video interference like I had on the P2000, while in reverse mode. Mr12Volt seemed to realize that the cheap video connector originally used was no good. So far the video is perfect in R. I'm using the Green Yi 720p AHD 170 cam with the cam line cut to allow the MMI lines only. The image is crisp as usual. I need to test the previous bug where getting close to objects caused the image to go red and cut out. Also I have not seen the image sliced in half bug yet either. Still early though.

I intend on testing a microphone I got off Amazon, I ran out of time to do that on my instal yesterday. Stay tuned.
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      05-21-2022, 12:02 PM   #828
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I considered an SD extender for firmware updates, but the problem is you need to be able to cycle power to the box and disconnect MOST during the firmware update process, which means you need physical access anyway.

Would really love if there was a way to perform firmware updates without having physical access to the box.
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      05-22-2022, 09:55 AM   #829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
You stated in your original post that you haven't coded anything. Check that first. It sounds like you don't have the CD changer coding done. Details are on the first page of this thread.
Correct, I was missing CD changer coding, which cannot be done with Carly full version so,
  • From Amazon, got a "Veepeak OBDCheck BLE"
  • Got Bimmercode on my iPhone
  • Followed instructions 1st page of this thread
  • Now my ZCP MW 2013 E92 M3 has Carplay thanks to a new Mr12Volt's P2000 and d help from You Guys!

In a nutshell, I was missing couple things that are posted here-n-there (and over there):
  1. iDrive knob connector MUST be forced-in after you hear the "click I'm connected"
  2. CD Changer coding IS required for HU's with built-in CD/DVD

Cheers!
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      05-22-2022, 01:35 PM   #830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbav View Post
It sounds like a static click that I can hear, it is easier to hear with audible and is random times between clicks. Donít get it when using idrive native.

Iím going to replace the most cable over the weekend and see if that helps. I didnít replace this when I fitted the new unit.

Didnít get it on the P2000 light version I had before.

I will also contact support and see what they have to say.
Replaced the cabling and still get the issue.

Support are sending me a replacement unit just in case my one is faulty.

Does anyone else use audible? This is where the problem is most noticeable. If so do you get any audio static clicks? Interested if anyone else is getting this.
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      05-22-2022, 03:27 PM   #831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbav View Post
Replaced the cabling and still get the issue.

Support are sending me a replacement unit just in case my one is faulty.

Does anyone else use audible? This is where the problem is most noticeable. If so do you get any audio static clicks? Interested if anyone else is getting this.
I use audible all the time and have no clicks. Still using the P2000 light.
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      05-22-2022, 03:30 PM   #832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raphc View Post
I use audible all the time and have no clicks. Still using the P2000 light.
Thanks for replying, mine was also fine with the lights version. Only an issue after swapping to DSP version.

Hopefully the replacement unit will sort it.
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      05-22-2022, 05:38 PM   #833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbav View Post
Thanks for replying, mine was also fine with the lights version. Only an issue after swapping to DSP version.

Hopefully the replacement unit will sort it.
Hmmm that's concerning. My DSP unit is on the way. Hope I don't have the same issue
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      05-22-2022, 06:39 PM   #834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danbav View Post
Thanks for replying, mine was also fine with the lights version. Only an issue after swapping to DSP version.

Hopefully the replacement unit will sort it.
Keep us posted. I haven't noticed anything, but that doesn't mean it's not happening. Can you identify any other scenario where its happening? I don't have audible to test against.
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      05-23-2022, 09:04 AM   #835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
Keep us posted. I haven't noticed anything, but that doesn't mean it's not happening. Can you identify any other scenario where its happening? I don't have audible to test against.
Itís really hard to hear when playing music as there are not many breaks. Once you get an ear for it you can pick it out. I even get it when playing a video on USB. Ie no CarPlay.

Support have been great. New DSP box is already on its way and should be with me either tomorrow or Wednesday. As soon as I get a chance I will swap it over and report back.
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      05-23-2022, 01:29 PM   #836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwankel View Post
I considered an SD extender for firmware updates, but the problem is you need to be able to cycle power to the box and disconnect MOST during the firmware update process, which means you need physical access anyway.

Would really love if there was a way to perform firmware updates without having physical access to the box.
That's a good point. Is there a clear wire for 12v in on the unit? Wonder if it makes sense to splice in an inline switch so you don't have to take the car apart for updates.

All of the various software notes along the way make me think there will be some bugs to squish along the way. I've yet to install mine.
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