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02-20-2019, 09:26 AM | #1 |
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Wishbone bolt sheared off
Frustrated to start. Story I think begins with hitting a pothole (virginia roads) did not see it until I felt it. No issues after I went through, but it was a significant thud, was going about 20-25.
Fast-forward about 2 days later, I get the infamous DSC, DBC, start-off assistance notification. My steering wheel wasn't straight when the car was going straight, so I figured the pothole knocked the car out of alignment. On the way to the shop, The car is all over the place, rear end constantly feels like I don't have traction. I make a right turn and I hear audible *clink* at that point I just turned into my nearest parking lot and call Geico for a tow. While I'm waiting I started inspecting the car to see where the noise came from. I see the "Wishbone" on the passenger side just hanging. It was connected on the left, to my knowledge the frame, but on the right side where I believe it connects to the knuckle I could see the bolt sheared completely. I inform the shop, and they said they'll have to drill it out. They were able to get it out of the actual wishbone, but not knuckle. So now, I have to look into replacing the entire knuckle, and the mechanic and myself are pissed about that. I'm just confused why this happened in the first place, and what the h*** is this bolt made out of that they cannot get it out of the knuckle. He said something about the extractor couldn't get it out. I guess they don't want to damage the threads in the knuckle, but why couldn't they drill it and just retap? |
02-20-2019, 09:32 AM | #3 |
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So mad, I didn't even get any. Maybe I can go by there when I get off to see.
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02-20-2019, 09:37 AM | #4 |
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Sounds like the pothole killed the bolt and it took a bit for it shear all the way off. I'm surprised if there's nothing else bent, that's a hell of a big bolt to snap on a pothole. The knuckle is iron and the bolt is galvalume steel. The lower bolt goes through very long runs of the knuckle and it's probably just corroded in there solid if you're driving it in VA winters with road salt
The knuckle needs to come off the car to drill and tap it. He's probably not done that yet because anything can be done with enough persuasion, it's a bastard to get the whole corner apart but if he's going to have to replace the knuckle anyway, worth a shot. But I would tend to agree with them that it's easier and faster (and at any competent shop rate, probably cheaper AND you get a new part) to just replace the knuckle. You get a new wheel bearing while you're in there too! Win!
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Last edited by Richbot; 02-20-2019 at 09:47 AM.. |
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02-20-2019, 09:53 AM | #5 | |
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Makes sense it has to come off to do the tap. I hope nothing else is bent, I'm sure they'll let me know. How much do knuckles usually go for? Guys there quoted me 900 for new and around half for a used one. I've been searching and I can't even find where it's listed. |
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02-20-2019, 12:25 PM | #6 |
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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1416
$750 on ECS Tuning. By the time they do bolts and their parts markup and such $900 is probably not far off. Looks like a new upright comes with new bushings so that's good at least Looking at the upright, I bet the bushing sleeve is seized to the bolt. It's actually a ball joint rather than a flexy rubber bushing you could potentiall yget out with the hot wrench, with a big thick steel insert the bolt goes through. That's a bastard to get apart, but they might be able to press that lower bushing out and replace it with a new bush rather than trying any harder to extract the bolt itself. Try asking them if they can do it. Should be less than $100 in parts.
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Last edited by Richbot; 02-20-2019 at 12:32 PM.. |
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02-20-2019, 02:11 PM | #8 | |
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02-20-2019, 10:21 PM | #9 |
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sheet man you tell them.
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