E92 M3 ZCP in SCCA Solo F Street

[z06fun]

So I have the Dinan bar setup like the instructions suggest, with the bottom link joints on the inside of the bar. However I can't get it to the stiffest hole without loosening (maybe even removing) the bar mounts to slide it side to side to get clearance to get the links in. This a bit painful as it means you have to take off the whole felt cover thing to get in/out of that stiffest hole. Do some of you have the links on the outside like the stock ones? Just wondering if that works ok with clearance to things and having enough range of movement etc
Thanks!

[sgreer78]

Originally Posted by z06fun

So I have the Dinan bar setup like the instructions suggest, with the bottom link joints on the inside of the bar. However I can't get it to the stiffest hole without loosening (maybe even removing) the bar mounts to slide it side to side to get clearance to get the links in. This a bit painful as it means you have to take off the whole felt cover thing to get in/out of that stiffest hole. Do some of you have the links on the outside like the stock ones? Just wondering if that works ok with clearance to things and having enough range of movement etc
Thanks!

That doesn't make any sense. If you take both links off you should be able to rotate the bar down and put the links back in. The links should have enough space behind them to swing them out and back in.

[PedalFaster]

Has anyone ever experienced problems from having tires with mismatched diameters on the front and rear ends of the car?

[Richbot]

I’ve had 285/35 front and 275/35 rear on the car without issues (burning off old tires) that’s as far away from the stock diameter stagger of .6” bigger in back that I have gone. No issues meaning the car still worked fine with dsc off. Dsc intervened earlier when on, I assume because wheelspeed difference got into the intervention window faster

[z06fun]

Originally Posted by sgreer78

That doesn't make any sense. If you take both links off you should be able to rotate the bar down and put the links back in. The links should have enough space behind them to swing them out and back in.

Yes right you could do that if you remove the top end of the link from the strut. I was trying to move just the lower ends to enable quick changing between runs though. The bar ends are angled out, not parallel to the frame like they could be. So the stiffest hole is closer to the frame vs the other 2. But I found that on mine, actually only 1 side is too tight on clearance for 3rd hole changing (small differences in the sway bar bends) and if I jack the car up a little on that side while its on the ramps, I can get the tight side in since everything moves a little lower and there is slightly more clearance. Then I can drop it back to normal height and get the other into the stiffest hole, then tighten them up. So now I can change it between runs fairly easily.

[sgreer78]

Originally Posted by z06fun

Yes right you could do that if you remove the top end of the link from the strut. I was trying to move just the lower ends to enable quick changing between runs though. The bar ends are angled out, not parallel to the frame like they could be. So the stiffest hole is closer to the frame vs the other 2. But I found that on mine, actually only 1 side is too tight on clearance for 3rd hole changing (small differences in the sway bar bends) and if I jack the car up a little on that side while its on the ramps, I can get the tight side in since everything moves a little lower and there is slightly more clearance. Then I can drop it back to normal height and get the other into the stiffest hole, then tighten them up. So now I can change it between runs fairly easily.

I never had to remove the top endlink nut off the strut to move mine around. So either something is wrong with your bar, car, or installation.

[z3papa]

Originally Posted by sgreer78

I never had to remove the top endlink nut off the strut to move mine around. So either something is wrong with your bar, car, or installation.

Mine can be adjusted by simply disconnecting the bottom of each endlink as well as I did it tonight.

[Kelse92]

Since this thread has kind of evolved into the autocross catch-all thread... Is there anyone out there driving an e92 in STU? I’m curious how the car is setup if it exists
I’m running into having to run in the class due to my bolt-on mods and am wondering if anyone else is out there in the same boat as me

[sgreer78]

Chris Mayfield has used his OLOA e92 as an STU car. AFAIK it's all simple bolt ons with engine and DCT tunes. I'd imagine if someone spent the time it could be made fairly competitive.

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by sgreer78

Chris Mayfield has used his OLOA e92 as an STU car. AFAIK it's all simple bolt ons with engine and DCT tunes. I'd imagine if someone spent the time it could be made fairly competitive.

Haha ironically after I posted my comment I saw he had the car entered at nationals and messaged him on FB about his setup
We talked at length...It’s a pretty simple formula and I’m close. He’s running 10.5 square with 285’s so I’m gonna need to add some camber plates or go full coilovers, and put them on the front. Tune, exhaust, and springs have already been upgraded on my car, so I’m thinking a pulley and sway bar along with the additional grip would have the car set.

[Richbot]

His setup is available to read over in the laptimes thread if anybody else wants to steal it - the secret sauce is all in testing, testing, testing anyway - but at least it's a solid place to start from

[dkexige]

I'm about to get tires and most likely will go for the standard 275/35/18 RE-71R, but I'm curious if anyone has tried Yokohama A052 or Goodyear Supercar3? The A052's don't come in that size, so you'd have to run either square 265/35/18, or try to fit a 295/30/18 in the rear?

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by dkexige

I'm about to get tires and most likely will go for the standard 275/35/18 RE-71R, but I'm curious if anyone has tried Yokohama A052 or Goodyear Supercar3? The A052's don't come in that size, so you'd have to run either square 265/35/18, or try to fit a 295/30/18 in the rear?

I’m not familiar with the Goodyear’s. Running the bigger Yokohama’s is starting to become a popular choice. I’m curious to see if data supports it being any better than the RE-71’s. I’m sure it’s out there but haven’t done the digging on it.

[dkexige]

Tire Rack test gave the crown to the A052, but it seems there is a lack of stock right now. I'm concerned about the sizing and have been happy with a square setup, so I think I'm going to go with 71R's

Some links:
tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=242
racer.com/2019/08/27/testing-200-treadware-tires

[z3papa]

Originally Posted by dkexige

I'm about to get tires and most likely will go for the standard 275/35/18 RE-71R, but I'm curious if anyone has tried Yokohama A052 or Goodyear Supercar3? The A052's don't come in that size, so you'd have to run either square 265/35/18, or try to fit a 295/30/18 in the rear?

I tried the Yokohama A052's with the 265/295. It sucked. I ran TNT at the same event with really spent RE71R 275F's and was .3 faster on a 32 second course first run after 4 runs on the Yoks. I did not run the mixed set for the Peru tour because my Stones were close enough they might cord during the event. I came stated then that my thought was the BS 285/30-18 with 295/30-18's were probably the ticket but wanted to try fresher BS fronts first. The next few events mixed were really strong as the Yoks excel huge at longitudinal grip rear, but outmatched the 265 front grip. I'm taking a full set of BS and the 295 rear A05's. If Yokohama makes closer matching fronts, then it will make sense.

[Richbot]

Maybe it would work. Maybe it wouldn’t. But I ran a 295/30-18 Hoosier on my AS/FS car on an 8.5 and hot pressure target was 38ish.

That was with a 315/30-18 rear.

I know the conventional wisdom right now is the yokes want a lot of support and camber, but I don’t think anybody has tried 295 square yet or 295/30-18 front and 295/35-18 rear either

Just sayin lots more depths to plumb with that tire and nats is too close to risk it for most people

[z3papa]

Originally Posted by Richbot

Maybe it would work. Maybe it wouldn’t. But I ran a 295/30-18 Hoosier on my AS/FS car on an 8.5 and hot pressure target was 38ish.

That was with a 315/30-18 rear.

I know the conventional wisdom right now is the yokes want a lot of support and camber, but I don’t think anybody has tried 295 square yet or 295/30-18 front and 295/35-18 rear either

Just sayin lots more depths to plumb with that tire and nats is too close to risk it for most people

I'd be hard pressed to try to repeat Foley's effort to get a 295 on the fronts. If it was for Dave/SPS, I'd have abandoned the effort on the 285's. I've done an event on the setup and it worked well. I'll still hit the TNT course (I know it sucks) at Nat's and make further assessment. The two makes of tires actually take/build heat pretty comparably, and both prefer cooler carcass temps.

[Richbot]

The 295 yoke doesn’t mount like the 285 re71 from what I’m reading?

[z3papa]

Originally Posted by Richbot

The 295 yoke doesn’t mount like the 285 re71 from what I’m reading?

The 295/30-18 Yok is very wide the same width of other 315's. They mounted with some challenge o 19" rears, but only Jeremy/Kerry dared to get it mounted to the front 9" wheels.

[Richbot]

width and how a tire mounts isn't really necessarily going to track in my experience cramming tires (sometimes the wider tire mounts easier because it's taller, or the sidewall doesn't resist movement in the direciton you need to move it for mounting as much), but The section width is 11.8"/tread 11.2? Which 315/30-18 is 11.8"? The rival is 12.6 just like the yoke in 315/30-18, with 11.7" tread width I'm just saying, it's doable, and they already make a tire that's a "better match" for the 295/30, it's the 295/30 up front with the 315 on the rear ;

It's only money! If somebody doesn't at least try it next year at a national level I'll eat my guacamole hat. If you FS people are not careful I'm going to go to dave's and put some on for spite

[CSBM5]

In days gone by, Hoosier A6s would snap onto a smaller wheel width in a heartbeat. Trying the same with the competitor at the time, the V710, was a nightmare, and often if you did get it squeezed onto the wheel, the carcass would be all contorted and messed up.

If the A052 has a soft sidewall, it might be better able to squeeze onto a wheel versus something like the Rival.

All this reminds me of the late Jim Feinberg showing up at our local club autox in his Integra R with 275s up front (I think those were squeezed onto 6" wheels). It was sloppy on transients but it stuck good.

[z3papa]

Originally Posted by Richbot

width and how a tire mounts isn't really necessarily going to track in my experience cramming tires (sometimes the wider tire mounts easier because it's taller, or the sidewall doesn't resist movement in the direciton you need to move it for mounting as much), but The section width is 11.8"/tread 11.2? Which 315/30-18 is 11.8"? The rival is 12.6 just like the yoke in 315/30-18, with 11.7" tread width I'm just saying, it's doable, and they already make a tire that's a "better match" for the 295/30, it's the 295/30 up front with the 315 on the rear ;

It's only money! If somebody doesn't at least try it next year at a national level I'll eat my guacamole hat. If you FS people are not careful I'm going to go to dave's and put some on for spite

Go ahead Rich. The measurements on the TR site are at best conservative. Wait till you see the 295's. They were 11.75" wide after mount on a 10" wheel.
But prove me wrong and buy some 295/315's for your 8.5" fronts/9.5 rears and have Dave take a whirl. I'm am pretty certain he would have hated me if I had brought those for mounting. He did mount the BS 285/30-18 on my 9" fronts after using all his tricks and running 140 psi to get the bead to seat.