First oil change after rod bearings

[strokemycocktus]

Is there any reason I should change the oil quicker if my rod bearings were done not long ago?
I normally plan on ~7500 km oil intervals and currently have about 6500 on the new bearings. Should I do it asap or it doesn't matter?
Only thing I heard is that some installation lubricant is used for rod bearings job and it circulates then with the oil.

[Helmsman]

Personally wouldnt have an issue with the install lube - its lube right, and mixed with 8 liter of oil on top - but possible dirt getting in might be a reason to change. If you feel your shop is a "clean room" easy. If cole mind, might as well change.
Changed after around 3k miles after new shells just because.

[Redd]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

Is there any reason I should change the oil quicker if my rod bearings were done not long ago?
I normally plan on ~7500 km oil intervals and currently have about 6500 on the new bearings. Should I do it asap or it doesn't matter?
Only thing I heard is that some installation lubricant is used for rod bearings job and it circulates then with the oil.

Usually you want to do a post-installation flush around 1k after installation. You're already at 6.5k. It doesn't matter if you drive another 1k and do your usual change at 7.5k.

[roastbeef]

it doesn't matter. drive and maintain like you normally would.

[strokemycocktus]

Originally Posted by Redd

Usually you want to do a post-installation flush around 1k after installation. You're already at 6.5k. It doesn't matter if you drive another 1k and do your usual change at 7.5k.

Mind sharing some info behind this?
I usually hear that flushing the engine is not recommended at all. And why 1k after the rod bearings job? There is no break in afaik.

[Richbot]

I changed mine at 400 miles after the bearing change out of paranoia re dust and debris in the engine from the bottom coming off of it.

[strokemycocktus]

Isn't this alleged tiny amount of dust cought in the filter anyway after a few minutes of the engine running?

Maybe I've done everything wrong and now I need to replace the rod bearings along with the oil change

[Redd]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

Mind sharing some info behind this?
I usually hear that flushing the engine is not recommended at all. And why 1k after the rod bearings job? There is no break in afaik.

Not an engine flush. Just change the oil. Tbh its unnecessary. Some people do it as a precaution, clean out installation lube, check the oil for metal shavings etc.

[xboost]

I'm not an expert but I had mine done just a few weeks ago and the workshop which had done a number before said it was not necessary and that the oil could be changed at the regular service intervals.

[wfdeacon88]

I am 300 miles post-BE bearing install... I might change it early, if my schedule allows.. but I've been driving the car as normal and it's flawless thus far. The joy of driving this car without the fear of impending doom is priceless.

[strokemycocktus]

Thanks for all the answers.
I'm at 6600 km after rod bearings now and I'll do the oil change in 2 weeks, with probably around 7k by then. I'm going to try Millers NT+ that everyone worships recently here in Europe. I'll also probably take a sample and send it to blackstone.

[Scrippy]

Holy shit! Let it go everyone! What is the failure rate .0001%? I'll assume OP is new but it's everyone's fault for making this what it is thus making our fresh blood neurotic about RB's. RB's are only a problem if you shit on your car! It's a production car not a race car. If you treat an M3 like a race car but don't maintain it you will have a shitty day.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

Thanks for all the answers.
I'm at 6600 km after rod bearings now and I'll do the oil change in 2 weeks, with probably around 7k by then. I'm going to try Millers NT+ that everyone worships recently here in Europe. I'll also probably take a sample and send it to blackstone.

Isn't the Millers NT+ 10w60 regarded as not a good option for the M engines? The Millers CFS 10w60 is the one most seem to prefer. Not quite as popular is the Petronas 10w60 but you should easily be able to find Liqui Moly.

[strokemycocktus]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Isn't the Millers NT+ 10w60 regarded as not a good option for the M engines? The Millers CFS 10w60 is the one most seem to prefer. Not quite as popular is the Petronas 10w60 but you should easily be able to find Liqui Moly.

Mind telling why?
I see that CFS NT+ has reduced friction vs the CFS and lower viscosity, which I also find better for tight rod bearing clearances. The NT+ was also more expensive so it has to be better haha
I had LM and after changing to Castrol I found the engine ran smoother, so I probably won't go back to this oil.
Many M3 owners in my country use Millers NT+ and are satisfied overall. (Like there was an option to be dissatisfied with an oil lol)

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

Mind telling why?
I see that CFS NT+ has reduced friction vs the CFS and lower viscosity, which I also find better for tight rod bearing clearances. The NT+ was also more expensive so it has to be better haha
I had LM and after changing to Castrol I found the engine ran smoother, so I probably won't go back to this oil.
Many M3 owners in my country use Millers NT+ and are satisfied overall. (Like there was an option to be dissatisfied with an oil lol)

There's a post somewhere on this forum that talks about people experiencing cam/rocker wear on E46 M3s, but that's disputed.

Looking at the Millers spec info, it doesn't look particularly amazing. An important property is the HTHS which is associated to how much protection an oil provides. While the Millers oil HTHS is 5.64, the BMW-Shell oil is 5.42. Rowe 10W60 HTHS is 5.7 which is insignificantly better. For example, Liqui Moly 10W60 HTHS is ">= 3,5 mPas" but the effect of that is that it it doesn't run as hot at the track. There is a value for HTHS where going above it doesn't improve things, but I haven't seen that.

From those numbers alone, you'll get better protection from the Rowe oil, your engine will get up to temperature quicker and shed heat faster with Liqui Moly, and the Shell or Castrol options will likely be slightly cheaper and easier to find. The key take away is that the Millers oil isn't particularly special so you don't have to go out of you way to use it. The popular options are all good oils.

Millers 10W60 NT+
AE Viscosity Grade 10w60
Specific Gravity @ 15°C 0.870
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C 23.3 cSt
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C 161 cSt
HTHS 5.64
Viscosity Index 175
Pour Point °C -42
Flashpoint °C 226
Cold Crank Viscosity @ -25°C 7,000cP
TBN mg KOH / gm 10.1

Properties Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W- 60
Viscosity Grade 10W-60
Kinematic Viscosity @40°C cSt 151
Kinematic Viscosity @100°C cSt 22.8
Density @15°C kg/l 0.850
Flash Point (PMCC) °C 215
Pour Point °C -39
HTHS Viscosity @150°C mPaS 5.42

[strokemycocktus]

Originally Posted by Ximian

There's a post somewhere on this forum that talks about people experiencing cam/rocker wear on E46 M3s, but that's disputed.

Looking at the Millers spec info, it doesn't look particularly amazing. An important property is the HTHS which is associated to how much protection an oil provides. While the Millers oil HTHS is 5.64, the BMW-Shell oil is 5.42. Rowe 10W60 HTHS is 5.7 which is insignificantly better. For example, Liqui Moly 10W60 HTHS is ">= 3,5 mPas" but the effect of that is that it it doesn't run as hot at the track. There is a value for HTHS where going above it doesn't improve things, but I haven't seen that.

From those numbers alone, you'll get better protection from the Rowe oil, your engine will get up to temperature quicker and shed heat faster with Liqui Moly, and the Shell or Castrol options will likely be slightly cheaper and easier to find. The key take away is that the Millers oil isn't particularly special so you don't have to go out of you way to use it. The popular options are all good oils.

Millers 10W60 NT+
AE Viscosity Grade 10w60
Specific Gravity @ 15°C 0.870
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C 23.3 cSt
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C 161 cSt
HTHS 5.64
Viscosity Index 175
Pour Point °C -42
Flashpoint °C 226
Cold Crank Viscosity @ -25°C 7,000cP
TBN mg KOH / gm 10.1

Properties Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W- 60
Viscosity Grade 10W-60
Kinematic Viscosity @40°C cSt 151
Kinematic Viscosity @100°C cSt 22.8
Density @15°C kg/l 0.850
Flash Point (PMCC) °C 215
Pour Point °C -39
HTHS Viscosity @150°C mPaS 5.42

Thanks for the info! Where did you get the HTHS value for Millers NT+? I couldn't find it anywhere myself.
Im this case Motul looks better, with just slightly higher viscosity (0.2 hot) you get over 5.8 HTHS. Millers was very expensive, I paid twice as much as I would for Motul and other brands.
I'll see how it does and maybe change to some other brand next oil change.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by strokemycocktus

Thanks for the info! Where did you get the HTHS value for Millers NT+? I couldn't find it anywhere myself.
Im this case Motul looks better, with just slightly higher viscosity (0.2 hot) you get over 5.8 HTHS. Millers was very expensive, I paid twice as much as I would for Motul and other brands.
I'll see how it does and maybe change to some other brand next oil change.

It was hidden in a link above - http://performanceracingoils.com/millers-cfs-10w60-nt/

[kyippee]

I did mine ~600 miles after rod bearing replacement, including one track day.

[MPower7]

Changed mine after 600 miles and no RPMs over 3.5k. Thought it was worth it.

[IamFODI]

My shop advised me to keep it under 5k and go easy on the throttle for about 500 miles. They did say it probably wasn't necessary but it just seems like a reasonable precaution and can't really hurt. I agree, so I went with it.

I'm as confident as I can be that this shop did everything they could to prevent contamination. That's just how they roll, or I wouldn't have left my car with them (and paid a slight premium for the privilege). But I also feel like some amount of contamination is inevitable any time you open the engine, as is some small amount of break-in on any part that wears. FWIW.