Looking for some help. High Engine Operating Temps.

[DRLane]

What’s your bleed technique?

[ashutoshkotha]

I’m not working on my car yet. Getting everything done at EAS.

[DRLane]

Originally Posted by ashutoshkotha

I’m not working on my car yet. Getting everything done at EAS.

Gotcha, they should be more than capable at figuring this out for you. Let us know what you find with the breakout temps (coolant vs oil).

[ashutoshkotha]

Thank you. Will do. I’ll get the readings and hopefully the current chages fix my problems.

[ashutoshkotha]

[QUOTE=DRLane;30481901]Do you have a logger that’s reading coolant and oil temps separately? If so share those.

Do you know if Aim Solo 2 DL will record all this info from the standard obd port?

[tsk94]

I believe you can get water temp from the OBD.
Oil temp needs CAN connection - if I remember correctly, lol.

[ashutoshkotha]

Originally Posted by tsk94

I believe you can get water temp from the OBD.
Oil temp needs CAN connection - if I remember correctly, lol.

Understood. Thank you. I think understand what's needed.

I'll try to figure out the setup before next weekend. Ordering the stuff now.

[ashutoshkotha]

UPDATE:

I was not able to install the AIM SOLO 2 DL. Ordered wrong items. I will run the next track with Aim Solo 2 DL.

After changing the

• Thermostat
• Coolant sensor
• Oil filter housing gasket
• Engine oil diverter valve

I've noticed two things

• Engine take time to warm up and even on regular drives it stays slightly below 210
• Kinda runs smooth compared to before

I was at chuckwalla yesterday and had the same message come up. But, this time it was after 3-4 laps as opposed to one hot lap. The ambient temperatures did not seem to affect this because I got the message after 3-4 laps in the first session(78F) & the last session(99F). Two things I noticed

• The temp reading on the dash does not seems to stabilize at any point in the session. It gradually keeps getting close to 300. Every time I have this message the reading is almost 300.
  
• The temp goes down to(210) pretty quickly this time around (within half a lap) compared to a whole cool down lap and some drive in the pits.

I'm lost at this point. This is so frustrating. Car falls off right when you start getting in the groove.

What else could this be?

Before the next session:
Will do coolant flush. Probably closely monitor this time to make sure there is no air gaps.

[roastbeef]

i read back through the thread and just want to clarify- is your undertray in good condition? the three piece felt looking piece under the front bumper?

all of these things that you did and you're still having cooling issues isn't making sense... you should be able to do 20 minute sessions with no problems.

edit- i see you have the pinnacle tray. should be fine.

this is all pointing to air in the cooling system or a blocked radiator.

[ashutoshkotha]

Thank you roastbeef

The radiators are not blocked for sure. Checked them multiple times.

I will make sure the coolant is properly flushed this time. Hopefully that is the problem.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by ashutoshkotha

Thank you roastbeef

The radiators are not blocked for sure. Checked them multiple times.

I will make sure the coolant is properly flushed this time. Hopefully that is the problem.

did you describe the situation to eas? they are a competent shop and should be able to figure it out.

that being said, does the car run warm on the street? traffic? does the temperature rise idling at stoplights?

[ashutoshkotha]

[QUOTE=roastbeef;30517314]did you describe the situation to eas? they are a competent shop and should be able to figure it out.

that being said, does the car run warm on the street? traffic? does the temperature rise idling at stoplights?


So, EAS knows whats going on. We tried to replicate it on a dyno but the message didn’t come up.

I still didn’t talk to them with this latest information. Going to call them today.

So, as far as the street driving goes. The temps are stable at the 210mark. But, I noticed that sometimes it goes slightly beyond the 210 mark and stays there for a while before it comes back down to 210. I’m going to check this again this evening.

[tsk94]

Is the fan operating, properly..?
Grasping at straws :/

[ashutoshkotha]

Originally Posted by tsk94

Is the fan operating, properly..?
Grasping at straws :/

Yes 😞

[bigjae1976]

There really is no way to look through the condensor to see if there is stuff in there. Remove the radiator and blow out the condenser from the back. I'm 10,000% sure you're going to get a small pile of crap flying out.

I've been doing a lot of research on cooling. What I've learned and tested is that cooling is more of a function of air flow and pressure differentials between the front and back of the radiator than getting bigger or better radiators.

Air flows from high pressure to low pressure. Ideally you have high pressure in front of the radiator and low pressure behind the radiator which forces air through the cooler. You get more cooling as the pressure differential increases. The problem you're having is probably the fan on the back of the radiator. The fan turning increases pressure on the backside of the radiator as speed increases which reduces flow through the radiator. Also there is a high pressure area under the hood which further reduces flow. Hood vents can reduce the pressure area under the hood which will improve flow.

If you overlay coolant temps vs speed then you'll see a strong correlation. The top is speed, the bottom is coolant temperature. The temp drops after a long straight and temps rise after turns and lower speed sections. There's a delay until the coolant gets circulated enough times to show the temp drop.

[ashutoshkotha]

Originally Posted by bigjae1976

There really is no way to look through the condensor to see if there is stuff in there. Remove the radiator and blow out the condenser from the back. I'm 10,000% sure you're going to get a small pile of crap flying out.

I've been doing a lot of research on cooling. What I've learned and tested is that cooling is more of a function of air flow and pressure differentials between the front and back of the radiator than getting bigger or better radiators.

Air flows from high pressure to low pressure. Ideally you have high pressure in front of the radiator and low pressure behind the radiator which forces air through the cooler. You get more cooling as the pressure differential increases. The problem you're having is probably the fan on the back of the radiator. The fan turning increases pressure on the backside of the radiator as speed increases which reduces flow through the radiator. Also there is a high pressure area under the hood which further reduces flow. Hood vents can reduce the pressure area under the hood which will improve flow.

If you overlay coolant temps vs speed then you'll see a strong correlation. The top is speed, the bottom is coolant temperature. The temp drops after a long straight and temps rise after turns and lower speed sections. There's a delay until the coolant gets circulated enough times to show the temp drop.

Thanks a ton for the insight on the pressure differences. You probably just helped me solve my mysterious issue. After reading your point on the pressure difference modulating the coolant flow this makes me think that the vented hood will solve my problem.

One thing that hit me while doing all this was that this might not be a cooling issue rather it could be something else causing the engine to heat up in certain conditions. I thought so because the cooling system bings down the temp to 210 within half a cool down lap once I slow down after getting the high operating temps message. For this reason as a final go I did these things:

• Got a pressure test done to make sure everything okay with the engine internally
• Installed a vented hood.
• Installed a data logger(Aim Solo 2 DL)

I will get the radiator cleaned next time around taking it off the car.
Installed a data logger to see when the temps are changing to get some correlation.

Headed to Big Willow this weekend will update on what happens there.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by ashutoshkotha

Thanks a ton for the insight on the pressure differences. You probably just helped me solve my mysterious issue. After reading your point on the pressure difference modulating the coolant flow this makes me think that the vented hood will solve my problem.

One thing that hit me while doing all this was that this might not be a cooling issue rather it could be something else causing the engine to heat up in certain conditions. I thought so because the cooling system bings down the temp to 210 within half a cool down lap once I slow down after getting the high operating temps message. For this reason as a final go I did these things:


Got a pressure test done to make sure everything okay with the engine internally
Installed a vented hood.
Installed a data logger(Aim Solo 2 DL)


I will get the radiator cleaned next time around taking it off the car.
Installed a data logger to see when the temps are changing to get some correlation.

Headed to Big Willow this weekend will update on what happens there.

Hood vents helped a little. What made the biggest difference was deleting the fan behind the radiator. An easy 10 degree drop, maybe more. That data is from a 98 degree humid day in Houston.

Now I had the vents when I removed the fan. Can’t say which one made a bigger difference.

Removing the fan is likely not an option for a street driven car. Maybe the fan I front of the AC condensor can be upgraded to provide enough air flow at idle?

[amg6975]

Vented hood should help but a non vented hood is not causing this issue. Many people run non vented hoods and have no temperature issues.

[ashutoshkotha]

[QUOTE=bigjae1976;30579608]Hood vents helped a little. What made the biggest difference was deleting the fan behind the radiator. An easy 10 degree drop, maybe more. That data is from a 98 degree humid day in Houston.

Now I had the vents when I removed the fan. Can’t say which one made a bigger difference.

Removing the fan is likely not an option for a street driven car. Maybe the fan I front of the AC condensor can be upgraded to provide enough air flow at idle?


Understood. I mean at this point I’m lost and dont know what else needs to be done to find the problem.

I will know if my issue is resolved this weekend becuase vented hood is the only chnage I did this time around.

[ashutoshkotha]

Originally Posted by amg6975

Vented hood should help but a non vented hood is not causing this issue. Many people run non vented hoods and have no temperature issues.

For sure. In my case at this point I’m dont have anything else left to change to find the root cause.

Will know if the vented hood helps me this weekend.

[bigjae1976]

Originally Posted by ashutoshkotha

Understood. I mean at this point I’m lost and dont know what else needs to be done to find the problem.

I will know if my issue is resolved this weekend becuase vented hood is the only chnage I did this time around.

I'd start with checking or replacing the AC condenser.

[okusa]

Originally Posted by amg6975

Vented hood should help but a non vented hood is not causing this issue. Many people run non vented hoods and have no temperature issues.

I actually do not think there is anyone without temperature issues on this platform that is putting down consistently fast laps. Sure you can parade around all day, but throw on some slicks and mash the pedal and there is no way you are getting in more than 2 hot laps before the car complains.