Apple CarPlay/Android Auto Retrofit

[PACarGuy]

Originally Posted by smass

Thanks for the detailed reply. Michael is sending me a firmware update now that we all know won't do much. Hopefully, he will let me send the V1 back for a V3. Ultimately I need 3 total of these for my CIC/combox cars.

Michael had told me a couple months back that you can't return the v1 for v3, but they'll give a discount towards a v3. But I haven't followed up yet as the reports on v3 seem to indicate that switching back and forth is still not bug free. This has kept me from upgrading so far.

[brettcp]

Originally Posted by PACarGuy

Michael had told me a couple months back that you can't return the v1 for v3, but they'll give a discount towards a v3. But I haven't followed up yet as the reports on v3 seem to indicate that switching back and forth is still not bug free. This has kept me from upgrading so far.

I've been using it for a while now... about 30% of the time, I get in the car and it just works. The rest of the time, I have to open up Settings / Bluetooth and connect to the carplay unit via my iPhone then swipe down and switch the iPhone audio output from carplay over to the BMW factory bluetooth. It will be nice when they work that out, but at this point it only takes a few seconds to workaround and I've become used to it.

Now the lack of audio switching with siri and reading back text messages etc is another issue. For now I just forget about even using those features.

I really just use Spotify and full-screen Waze, which are awesome.

The only other mild annoyance I've come across is that when you open the car door, it "wakes up" the carplay unit and tries to connect to your phone. I have a whole-home audio system (in ceiling speakers in most every room), and typically have music playing all day long (I work from home), so if I go out to the garage to grab something out of the car, often times it will connect my phone to the carplay unit which stops my whole-home audio stream "The music has stopped because this Spotify account is being used on another device". First world problem I know, and I guess I could use a second Spotify account but for now its nothing more than a mild annoyance. On the flip side, the fact that it wakes up when you open the car door can be a nice feature as carplay is up and running on the screen by the time I start the engine.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by PACarGuy

Michael had told me a couple months back that you can't return the v1 for v3, but they'll give a discount towards a v3. But I haven't followed up yet as the reports on v3 seem to indicate that switching back and forth is still not bug free. This has kept me from upgrading so far.

I went from a v2 to a v3 with the discount. I ended up selling the v2 locally to someone who didn't care about the AUX in.

Originally Posted by brettcp

I've been using it for a while now... about 30% of the time, I get in the car and it just works. The rest of the time, I have to open up Settings / Bluetooth and connect to the carplay unit via my iPhone then swipe down and switch the iPhone audio output from carplay over to the BMW factory bluetooth. It will be nice when they work that out, but at this point it only takes a few seconds to workaround and I've become used to it.

Now the lack of audio switching with siri and reading back text messages etc is another issue. For now I just forget about even using those features.

I really just use Spotify and full-screen Waze, which are awesome.

The only other mild annoyance I've come across is that when you open the car door, it "wakes up" the carplay unit and tries to connect to your phone. I have a whole-home audio system (in ceiling speakers in most every room), and typically have music playing all day long (I work from home), so if I go out to the garage to grab something out of the car, often times it will connect my phone to the carplay unit which stops my whole-home audio stream "The music has stopped because this Spotify account is being used on another device". First world problem I know, and I guess I could use a second Spotify account but for now its nothing more than a mild annoyance. On the flip side, the fact that it wakes up when you open the car door can be a nice feature as carplay is up and running on the screen by the time I start the engine.

I've gotten used to the Siri text functions in the other cars I drive with native Apple car play. I agree that the streaming audio with the bluetooth audio seems to be great and only seems to be a problem with Siri functions.

My connection to the Wireless carplay seems to have issues when you are connected to your home WiFi and it doesn't want to switch over to the wireless carplay wifi. If you just select the wirelesscarplay WiFi, it fixes the issue right away. This is not specific to this unit, it is a problem with wireless carplay in my wife's M2 as well.

[PACarGuy]

Originally Posted by brettcp

I've been using it for a while now... about 30% of the time, I get in the car and it just works. The rest of the time, I have to open up Settings / Bluetooth and connect to the carplay unit via my iPhone then swipe down and switch the iPhone audio output from carplay over to the BMW factory bluetooth. It will be nice when they work that out, but at this point it only takes a few seconds to workaround and I've become used to it.

Now the lack of audio switching with siri and reading back text messages etc is another issue. For now I just forget about even using those features.

I really just use Spotify and full-screen Waze, which are awesome.

The only other mild annoyance I've come across is that when you open the car door, it "wakes up" the carplay unit and tries to connect to your phone. I have a whole-home audio system (in ceiling speakers in most every room), and typically have music playing all day long (I work from home), so if I go out to the garage to grab something out of the car, often times it will connect my phone to the carplay unit which stops my whole-home audio stream "The music has stopped because this Spotify account is being used on another device". First world problem I know, and I guess I could use a second Spotify account but for now its nothing more than a mild annoyance. On the flip side, the fact that it wakes up when you open the car door can be a nice feature as carplay is up and running on the screen by the time I start the engine.

Thanks for the details. I mainly use the unit for full screen Waze and spotify myself, though would be nice to do text readout over audio on occasion as I like that feature.

I am actually able to use the bluetooth audio connectivity on the v1 unit as well, though as you point out, it doesn't do Siri or Waze alerts, text read out, etc. over bluetooth so it sounds like v3 is not an improvement there.

All in all, not sure that, given what you say, the upgrade would ultimately be worth it, though better bass response would certainly be nice. Maybe I just need v2 or wait until they do a fully wired integration with factory mic.

[Iyzmi]

Originally Posted by PACarGuy

or wait until they do a fully wired integration with factory mic.

That's what I'm waiting for. None of the half-baked solutions we've seen so far appeal to me. It either works 100% or I don't want it.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by Iyzmi

That's what I'm waiting for. None of the half-baked solutions we've seen so far appeal to me. It either works 100% or I don't want it.

You could so easily chop the mic end off the mic wire and solder on a 3 pin connector for the OEM microphone.

[derbo]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

You could so easily chop the mic end off the mic wire and solder on a 3 pin connector for the OEM microphone.

That was originally my plan before I went on a stupid brigade to go Combox + ACPv3 lol

[youbarajs]

I ordered the Joyeauto carplay and reverse camera and set them up last week. Here is what I personally feel after using it for 1 week

General - Price/Support
1) Currently their support system is somewhat broken due to situations owing to corona virus, half of the China is at halt, so honestly cannot blame them. So for now you are mostly on your own if you get into any trouble, the number given on their site is responding once a day.
2) I got it at a good price, both combined I paid almost 48% less that what the price is listed on AliExpress (I did bit of bargain + some benefits of being a Diamond Member) , my original intent was to go with Bimmertech MMI, but there was a huge price difference.
3) Delivery time as a bit of concern due to situation in China (product came from Hong Kong), and took little over 3 weeks to reach Philippines.
4) They shared with me the X1 installation video, which acts as a guide only. The part for rear camera is not shown correctly and its not plug and play.
5) This unit gets pretty hot, to an extent that the velcro tape that I had used came out easily the next day

Installation
1) Pretty straight forward installation, the biggest challenge was to re-route the wires to glove-box. I am still not satisfied with the location (read through the section below on what I intend to do in later days).
2) I have re-wired the factory mic (I had one spare on FZD from my COMBOX retrofit) and connected it to the unit and it works well.
3) The odd part of the entire set up is the AUX connection, I have re-routed the wire through the rubber pad on central arm console and planning to change it later (read through my post).

Working Status

Sound Quality - 5 out of 10
Navigation - 9 out of 10
Other Apps - 6 out of 10 (I tried using Whatsapp and Calendar and it works well)
Display - 10 out of 10
Calls - 10 out of 10
Contacts - 8 out of 10
Rear View Camera - 4 out of 10
Video Playback - 10 out of 10 *

Overall - 7 out of 10

a) The Navigation sound is not working and as per the support and some other forum, you will have to increase it manually whilst the "waze is talking", this is same for Google Map and i guess its to do with the carplay system rather than the hardware
b) the rear view camera and the PDC appearance changes to a new look, the factory one looks much more better than this one. In my opinion the rear view camera for me was a waste of money. I have disabled the camera and using original PDC which i am much more happy with. Furthermore the rear view camera quality (of the trunk handle and switch) is not that great.
c) Phone Calls and Contacts - Calls are going thru my original system, even if I dial it using the carplay (which I love the most as the call quality of combo is better basis some of the forum posts). The only problem is the steering wheel control, when i press the call button, it dials the last number by default, instead of display the contact list.
d) *Video and other play back using usb is ok, I don't use them much but i tried playing a full HD movie and it worked well.
e) Sound quality is ok, but you will feel a huge difference if you immediately switch between Bluetooth/USB and Carplay, the bass element is very less on the AUX port. ** I realized that the best sound quality comes out of Car Radio and TV unit and not the USB/Bluetooth connections, so if i have to rate Carplay, its third in the list.



Here are some additional observations, I am mentioning them as its a good way around to manage some of the shortcomings of this unit, plus some have few rooms for improvements.

a) I can use original USB or Bluetooth to the play music, and it woks great, with original sound. At the same time when I switch to Carplay, the music app shows the same song details and switching to carplay doesn't effect the (pause) the song or change the song quality.
b) Weather I use Carplay or Original Phone app, my phone calls are all routed through original mic, so the call quality is super good
c) If I use original voice command and ask it to dial a number, the call details appear on the Carplay, but it does not start "SIRI"
d) If I use phone-button on the steering wheel, it only dials the last number, no phonebook is displayed, to display the phone-book you will have to use the phone app and then go to contacts.
e) Siri doesn't work without mic set up to this unit, default mic will not work like the way it works for phone.
f) if you plan to use original Bluetooth/usb for music and use other apps like whatsapp at the same time, it will not work and music will be paused and it takes quite a turn and twist to make it work again. The phone and Idrive will show music playing but you will not hear anything.

What I intend to do now and I need any expert view -

1) I want to move this unit to the rear end where the default CD changes is located (I don't have AMP or CD changer so the place is empty)
2) Run a 4 pin connector from Idrive to this unit - this is a simple one and all I need is a DuPont connector, crimper and wires.
3) I already have the Mic connection running to the rear end which I will connect to this unit (if i need to use Siri, rest everything is working via the COMBOX system like phone calls etc.)
4) Use the AUX input directly to the COMBOX, I know there are three wires going to COMBOXwhich I can connect directly to this unit.
5) Now my biggest concern is the LVDS cables, I have got a seller to help me with a custom LVDS cables of desired length. I have to run this from the back side of the Head unit to passenger side foot wall and then to the rear end (same path as mic wiring). Not sure though if the system will support this and LVDS signals might get lost which such a long wiring.
6) Though there is a wifi antenna integrated to the unit, I hope the signal can reach the front end of the car, I will try this before doing anything else. I may have to buy a wifi antenna and rewire it to the B pillar.
7) I don't intend to use USB feature, but I can also re-wire it and take it to the front end of the car (glove box) if required.

Let me know if anyone tried a similar setup with success or if there are any challenges that you all foresee. I will try and update this post with new observations, problems and solutions if any.

[PACarGuy]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

You could so easily chop the mic end off the mic wire and solder on a 3 pin connector for the OEM microphone.

Would this actually work? Wouldn't the two systems conflict/compete somehow?

[smass]

The E90 overhead console has slots for 2 microphones. In the pic below, there is a piece of plastic blocking the slots on the right side mic. That plastic pops out so you can add a 2nd mic.

[Beemr]

Question guys from the U.K anyone managed to acquire the latest unit as Kremesino do not ship to U.K and the one reseller that does does not have any stock and ignores my questions on availability.

[youbarajs]

For last few days I am getting random errors on my dashboard when I use the car-play

1. In the mid of the driving the DSC/DTC deactivated warning comes up and driving becomes very different specially on high speed. I need to put it on side and restart for it to work again. Pressing the DSC button doesn't help
2. A dot appears on the Odometer, which I guess is the "tamper proof" because of mismatch between odometer readings in CAS and Cluster/Key.

3. Odometer reading goes to "-----" temporarily, and comes back.

All wires are connected and carplay works, music gets into pause mode and warning goes off but the dot stays until the car resets (15 minutes of so after taking out the key)

Any one else who faced this with Joyeauto for CIC.

[luckyse7en]

Originally Posted by youbarajs

For last few days I am getting random errors on my dashboard when I use the car-play

1. In the mid of the driving the DSC/DTC deactivated warning comes up and driving becomes very different specially on high speed. I need to put it on side and restart for it to work again. Pressing the DSC button doesn't help
2. A dot appears on the Odometer, which I guess is the "tamper proof" because of mismatch between odometer readings in CAS and Cluster/Key.

3. Odometer reading goes to "-----" temporarily, and comes back.

All wires are connected and carplay works, music gets into pause mode and warning goes off but the dot stays until the car resets (15 minutes of so after taking out the key)

Any one else who faced this with Joyeauto for CIC.

Sorry to hear man. All I can suggest is checking all connections and making sure nothing is pinched when you reinstall panels back on. I'm running joyeauto wired CIC unit for 10 months now no problem. Good luck.

[youbarajs]

Originally Posted by luckyse7en

Sorry to hear man. All I can suggest is checking all connections and making sure nothing is pinched when you reinstall panels back on. I'm running joyeauto wired CIC unit for 10 months now no problem. Good luck.

thanks buddy luckyse7en I am getting three errors
00A468 - LVDS External Open circuit - LVDS data Line
00E2C4 - CON - K-CAN line fault
00EE204 - MESSAGE (terminal status 0X130) faulty,receiver con car access control system : 524280

All these are related to each other and the bigger problems are
1) As CAS is not able to communicate well with KOMBI, temper dot appears on the car after driving for a while
2) DTC/DSC gets disabled all of a sudden, yesterday i was cruising at 120KM/Hr, car was absolutely unstable, almost lost control, it was scary

I removed the carplay system and re-scanned the system, all is green and not fault code at all

No help of whatsoever from our Chinese counterparts at Joyeauto. To make them understand the actual problem is a bigger problem on its own. I have recorded video with carplay working, scanned and with fault codes and another video with carplay removed and no fault code.

Just to check, if they are in-fact out of office (due to 2019-nCoV), I used another number and asked them about carplay system with a interest to buy. They immediately replied and was with me for almost 30 minutes explaining the benefits, asking my vin for compatibility check and throwing some good offers.



I found a couple of post in the forum with same problem. Let me fight with AliExpress for a full refund now.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...light=Joyeauto

[brettcp]

Originally Posted by youbarajs

thanks buddy luckyse7en I am getting three errors
00A468 - LVDS External Open circuit - LVDS data Line
00E2C4 - CON - K-CAN line fault
00EE204 - MESSAGE (terminal status 0X130) faulty,receiver con car access control system : 524280

All these are related to each other and the bigger problems are
1) As CAS is not able to communicate well with KOMBI, temper dot appears on the car after driving for a while
2) DTC/DSC gets disabled all of a sudden, yesterday i was cruising at 120KM/Hr, car was absolutely unstable, almost lost control, it was scary

I removed the carplay system and re-scanned the system, all is green and not fault code at all

No help of whatsoever from our Chinese counterparts at Joyeauto. To make them understand the actual problem is a bigger problem on its own. I have recorded video with carplay working, scanned and with fault codes and another video with carplay removed and no fault code.

Just to check, if they are in-fact out of office (due to 2019-nCoV), I used another number and asked them about carplay system with a interest to buy. They immediately replied and was with me for almost 30 minutes explaining the benefits, asking my vin for compatibility check and throwing some good offers.



I found a couple of post in the forum with same problem. Let me fight with AliExpress for a full refund now.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...light=Joyeauto

For what its worth, I haven't had any codes with the Kremersino wireless unit installed.. been running it for a few months now.

[youbarajs]

Originally Posted by Fede16

the dip swich probed it in the 3 modes for cic.
Not having a native configuration for series 1 gives me the errors
Attachment 2137234

I always fail every 655.35s in any of the modes and I get these errors that are in the screenshot
Attachment 2137235
Attachment 2137246

there is one that cannot be deleted because the car realizes that they are interfering with the data bus that is the COM K-CAN
Attachment 2137245


now they passed me a new fireware to try
we will see if it is solved

Originally Posted by Fede16

the dip swich probed it in the 3 modes for cic.
Not having a native configuration for series 1 gives me the errors
Attachment 2137234

I always fail every 655.35s in any of the modes and I get these errors that are in the screenshot
Attachment 2137235
Attachment 2137246

there is one that cannot be deleted because the car realizes that they are interfering with the data bus that is the COM K-CAN
Attachment 2137245


now they passed me a new fireware to try
we will see if it is solved

What was the final outcome? I am on the same boat as you. I guess K-CAN is the culprit, did you find any solution?

[coniman]

Hi guys! I've finally managed to solve my signal problem. Seems that the internal wifi antenna was broken so I've soldered an external one to the box. Now al my signal and audio problems had disappeared. Now the signal is really strong and music cuts are gone, I can move 15-20m away from the car and music keeps playing. If you are haven similar problems I suggest you to do it.

Here are some photos:

[derbo]

What's the dBi on that antennae?

[coniman]

Originally Posted by derbo

What's the dBi on that antennae?

3dBi I think, its from an old 802.11n router.

[Fede16]

Originally Posted by youbarajs

What was the final outcome? I am on the same boat as you. I guess K-CAN is the culprit, did you find any solution?

Hi
They want me to send him the unit so they can change it for a new one. but sending it from the country where I live is very expensive.
We did everything to not send it as bypass resistance but it did not work

The error in the K-CAN will always be. but in the other modules you don't have to have errors.
try to turn on the unit without connecting to the cambus but it does not turn on because you must read some information about the state of the car

I think that the problem is due to a defect in the power supply of the board, change the configuration to loudness and when the music is too long it starts to fail more often

I'm seeing another carplay module to buy.
that of Sinairyu tinen many sold for audi or that of Kremersino

[youbarajs]

Originally Posted by Fede16

Hi
They want me to send him the unit so they can change it for a new one. but sending it from the country where I live is very expensive.
We did everything to not send it as bypass resistance but it did not work

The error in the K-CAN will always be. but in the other modules you don't have to have errors.
try to turn on the unit without connecting to the cambus but it does not turn on because you must read some information about the state of the car

I think that the problem is due to a defect in the power supply of the board, change the configuration to loudness and when the music is too long it starts to fail more often

I'm seeing another carplay module to buy.
that of Sinairyu tinen many sold for audi or that of Kremersino

I guess I am on the same boat then

1. K-CAN error leads to a number of other errors (all temporary) related to CAS and CIC
2. Errors are random, I am using Combox bluetooth to play music hence did not notice if a longer music number leads to this error.
3. I guess the wire harness from IDrive to CarPlay unit is a culprit, but not sure! I prefer to have only a four pin connector, instead to current 4 pin to 10 pin and 4 pin female branched connector.
4. I also have the DVR and Reverse Cam fitted, the screen flickers a bit when putting car on reverse, only after a couple of trials, it stops flickering.

For me also the postal cost to send it back is huge from where I live, furthermore most of the postal services are suspended for HK due to Corona Virus

No reaponse from the "China Company" side despite of several messages.

[marone]

Hi Guys,

I have 2010 LCI M3 e92 and i'm looking for Car Play functionality / bluetooth audio streaming.

My internals:

0601 TV function
0609 Navi Professional
0620 AUX IN
0644 I]Bluetooth
0676 Sound system HiFi

I don't have combox and dont have Logic7 speakers.

I was reading the thread and now i'm wondering which system is better to install and have less issues?

Joyeauto or KREMERSINO? Both are 370$ so price wise are no difference.

I just saw 5/10 audio quality mark for streaming i assue. Having in mind i've got regular HI-FI stereo system it might be even worse?

I was also wondering if it would be better just to have COMBOX retrofit (i can buy used one for 100$) and forget abour carplay functionality? What do you guys suggest?