Alignment Specs

[ichy]

Just purchased KW Clubsport 2-way and would like to get some input on what alignment specs (camber and toe) I should be running. I'm doing about 8-10 track days this year but would like something little conservative since I do take the car out sometimes on a nice evening. The car is also driven to the track on re71rs 275/35/18 on a 18x10 et25 apex sm10.

Appreciate all the feedback!

[elim11]

R:-3.3 camber 0 toe front
F : -2.4 camber 1/8" toe in
Spec by west end alignment. Car is easily controllable in the corners . Would recommend

[ichy]

Originally Posted by elim11

R:-3.3 camber 0 toe front
F : -2.4 camber 1/8" toe in
Spec by west end alignment. Car is easily controllable in the corners . Would recommend

Is that a little too aggressive if I drive to the track?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by ichy

Is that a little too aggressive if I drive to the track?

I don't think so unless you're doing 1000 miles each way. Toe is what will eat the tires, not camber.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by elim11

R:-3.3 camber 0 toe front
F : -2.4 camber 1/8" toe in
Spec by west end alignment. Car is easily controllable in the corners . Would recommend

I think you have the R and F reversed.

F -3.3
R -2.4

OP - I would recommend swapping a shorter main spring in the front for better wheel clearance. Eibach 140mm length, 60mm diameter in the spring rate that came with your version of CS (it's stamped on your KW spring). If not you will need a front spacer. Plus you can fit wider 10.5" wheels in the future. Doing the swap now will save you the labor of pulling the suspension out to do it later.

[elim11]

Originally Posted by slicer

I think you have the R and F reversed.

F -3.3
R -2.4

Yes thanks for catching that.

OP not aggressive if you drive to the track only. I also drive probably 3000 miles on the street with not much issues thus far. Just rotate and potentially flip tire when needed.

[ichy]

Thanks for the input. Think I'm gonna go with -3 front with 0 toe and -2 rear with 1/16 toe in

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by elim11

F:-3.3 camber 0 toe front
R: -2.4 camber 1/8" toe in
Spec by west end alignment. Car is easily controllable in the corners . Would recommend

This is almost exactly what I'm running on our track car: -3.3* w/ 0 toe in the front, and -2.5* with 1/8" toe in in the rear.

Also don't overlook the importance of ride heights. 1/4" negative rake is a good starting point.

[P1zzaboy]

Originally Posted by tsk94

This is almost exactly what I'm running on our track car: -3.3* w/ 0 toe in the front, and -2.5* with 1/8" toe in in the rear.

Also don't overlook the importance of ride heights. 1/4" negative rake is a good starting point.

What is your fender to ground height?

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by P1zzaboy

What is your fender to ground height?

So, the 1/4" rake is measured from the difference between the front and rear jack point. This is Bimmerworlds suggested method for measuring rake on the E9X chassis.

With that being said the front and rear ground to fender measurements for our car are as follows:
Front: 635mm
Rear: 599mm

Ground to fender are somewhat misleading, as these will change depending on the diameter of tire you are running. The above numbers are with the car running 275/35R18 all around. If for example you were running 275/40R18, these ride height numbers would be higher, but rake would still remain the same. Thus, centre of wheel to fender is a better method as it ignores differences in overall tire diameter.

Hope that helps.

[ichy]

So I was only able to get a maximum front camber of -2.3 from the plates on the kw club sports 2way. Anyone that have these and was able to get more out of it?

[fsmtnbiker]

Originally Posted by ichy

So I was only able to get a maximum front camber of -2.3 from the plates on the kw club sports 2way. Anyone that have these and was able to get more out of it?

Yes, you should easily be able to get -3 or more with those plates. You have to lower the mounts and slide the adjuster further in under the strut top.

[P1zzaboy]

Originally Posted by tsk94

So, the 1/4" rake is measured from the difference between the front and rear jack point. This is Bimmerworlds suggested method for measuring rake on the E9X chassis.

With that being said the front and rear ground to fender measurements for our car are as follows:
Front: 635mm
Rear: 599mm

Ground to fender are somewhat misleading, as these will change depending on the diameter of tire you are running. The above numbers are with the car running 275/35R18 all around. If for example you were running 275/40R18, these ride height numbers would be higher, but rake would still remain the same. Thus, centre of wheel to fender is a better method as it ignores differences in overall tire diameter.

Hope that helps.

Yes I understand FTG is relative to tire size. I run the same size as you, but have 635mm F and 635mm R

That rear ride height of 599mm must tuck the rear tires in the arches a lot? I thought my car was low

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by P1zzaboy

Yes I understand FTG is relative to tire size. I run the same size as you, but have 635mm F and 635mm R

That rear ride height of 599mm must tuck the rear tires in the arches a lot? I thought my car was low

It's tucked up a bit for sure, but I wouldn't say it's that low. Some of the E92 GT4 factory race cars are even lower than this by ~10-15mm. At first the rear ride height was setup quite a bit higher, but resulted in a lot of rear end instability/oversteer at turn in and mid corner. Lowering the rear to where it is now has massively improved this.

My main point was not to over look the importance of proper ride height settings for track use, they are just as important as the rest of the alignment.

[MPower7]

Originally Posted by fsmtnbiker

Yes, you should easily be able to get -3 or more with those plates. You have to lower the mounts and slide the adjuster further in under the strut top.

Same issue here. Undue the 3 bolts on the top mount? Shouldn't it be able to move over by pushing it?

[tsk94]

Originally Posted by MPower7

Same issue here. Undue the 3 bolts on the top mount? Shouldn't it be able to move over by pushing it?

Yes. You might need to unweight the wheel to make it easier to push over though.

[slicer]

Originally Posted by MPower7

Same issue here. Undue the 3 bolts on the top mount? Shouldn't it be able to move over by pushing it?

Originally Posted by tsk94

Yes. You might need to unweight the wheel to make it easier to push over though.

It's best to unweight both front wheels so that the sway bar is not loaded. Remove both front wheels as well.

[kayha12]

Also interested to see you guys are able to achieve -3 or more camber, my plates are maxed out on one side and the other has maybe a hairs worth, but am only at -2.7

[VictorH]

Originally Posted by kayha12

Also interested to see you guys are able to achieve -3 or more camber, my plates are maxed out on one side and the other has maybe a hairs worth, but am only at -2.7

Depends what plates you are running. When I ran Ground Control street plates, my max was just about what you are seeing. I'm running Vorschlag now with aftermarket suspension and can get a bit over 4 degrees negative on both sides (which is too much for street tires). I run -3.5 degrees on track with street tires.

[kayha12]

Originally Posted by VictorH

Depends what plates you are running. When I ran Ground Control street plates, my max was just about what you are seeing. I'm running Vorschlag now with aftermarket suspension and can get a bit over 4 degrees negative on both sides (which is too much for street tires). I run -3.5 degrees on track with street tires.

Right, I was looking at aftermarket camber plates to get more camber - was hoping the kw clubsport camber plates could pull more

[Bartledoo]

Originally Posted by kayha12

Right, I was looking at aftermarket camber plates to get more camber - was hoping the kw clubsport camber plates could pull more

I'm at -2.8 front with quite a bit more adjustment left on kw clubsports. What is your ride height like up front?